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Pao IDE. BOOK OF 
ART, ARCHITECTURE, AND 
PootORIC INTERESTS IN 

PENNSYLVANIA 











READING THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE 


Painted by Edwin A. Abbey. ©M.G. Abbey 
From a Copley Print, © Curtis and Cameron, Publishers, Boston 











_ A GUIDE BOOK OF 
ARCHITECTURE, AND 


IN PENNSYLVANIA 


EDITED BY 





_ JLLUSTRATED 
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PHILADELPHIA 


JOHN C. WINSTON COMPANY 
\ 1924 





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Copyright, 1924, by 


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STATE FEDERATION OF PENNSYLVANIA 
WOMEN 


President 
Mrs. JOHN B. HAMME 


Art Committee for the Guide Book 
Miss A. MARGARETTA ARCHAMBAULT, 


epee ee. . Philadelphia 
Meo Oss BARROWS. .........0..... Lock Haven 
Pero suAR: DARNES . o.oo ee Philadelphia 
Miss Mary S. GARRETSON........... Pittsburgh 
Mrs. ETHEL HERRON HAYES......... Monongahela 
Pte ICRAF ONRY (200 oe. cl Pittsburgh 
Mrs. ROBERT McKELvy............. Titusville 
miss IRENE B. MARTIN. ...........-. Allentown 
PaimsrsARAH =i. PAISTE, ...62.-060 0. West Chester 
Mrs. JOHN G. READING..... ........ Williamsport 
Mrs. WALTER KING SHARPE......... Chambersburg 
Mrs. ANDREW THOMPSON............ Honesdale 


(v) 


HAIL! PENNSYLVANIA 


Hail! Pennsylvania, 
Noble and strong! 

To thee with loyal hearts 
We raise our song. 

Swelling to heaven, loud 
Our praises ring; 

Hail! Pennsylvania, 
Of thee we sing! 


Majesty as a crown 
Rests on thy brow; 
Pride, Honor, Glory, Love, 
Before thee bow. 
Ne’er can thy spirit die, 
Thy walls decay; 
Hail! Pennsylvania, 
For thee we pray. 


Hail! Pennsylvania, 
Guide of our youth! 
Lead thou thy children on 
To light and truth; 
Thee when death summons us, 
Others shall praise, 
Hail! Pennsylvania, 
Through endless days! 
Edgar M. Dilley, U. of P., 1897. 


Lo, sons of no mean Commonwealth, +* 
* * * * * * * 


We exultant speak the name of State, 
Proclaim the great “experiment” that wrought, 
As if by necromance ’mong doubting men, 
Fruition sure—beyond his ardent thought, 

Yet hidden in very heart of Penn! 

And bear the message, flash it sea to sea, 

Who freedom serve must of themselves be free! 


Harvey Maitland Watts. 
(vi) 


THE PLAN OF THE BOOK 


This Guide Book of Art, Architecture, and Historic 
Interests in Pennsylvania, commenced by advice of 
Mrs. Edward Biddle of Carlisle, and fostered by Mrs. 
Samuel Semple of Titusville, during their presidency 
of the “State Federation of Pennsylvania Women,” 
for the use of tourists, is arranged chronologically, 
beginning with the counties first formed; towns in 
each county follow each other in location as closely as 
possible. Works of good art in the state have been 
catalogued, together with a story of most interest- 
ing pioneer history, that each one of the sixty-seven 
counties should have a chapter in the book; those that 
have no art have the Indian trails and thrilling experi- 
ences of our first brave pathfinders. 

Serious effort has been made to have all the informa- 
tion verified; in some instances, two or three counties 
have made the same claims for various historic firsts, 
which have here been given their proper record, through 
consultation with the State Historians at Harrisburg. 
To keep the book small, facts are scarcely more than 
outlined; further information about them may be 
obtained from the bibliography of this book. 

The chapter of each county was written by a most 
responsible person, who lived there, judges, clergymen, 
historians, and a few by officers of the women’s clubs, 
thus giving inside knowledge that a stranger could 
never get. All dry-as-dust statistics are omitted, and 
only that which is of prominent interest is given. 


(vii) 


vill THE PLAN OF THE BOOK 


Authorities consulted have differed, and mistakes will 
occur; there will be sins of omission and commission 
in the work, according to the point of view of the 
reader; but they are few in comparison with the 
wealth of real information brought together within 
this cover. 

To the many earnest helpers who have given their 
knowledge, time and patience in obtaining and send- 
ing these reports, warmest thanks and sincere appre- 
ciation are heartily given; all honor is due to them. 
We would like to give their names, but some have 
asked that they be withheld and it is thought best to 
do so with all. 

A. MARGARETTA ARCHAMBAULT, Editor. 
Philadelphia, June 15, 1917. 


ADDENDA 


This book, finished for publication in 1917, was placed 
in the vaults of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 
as all money was needed for our soldiers. The present 
committee, appointed by Mrs. Hamme, has decided to 
publish the work as compiled in 1917, and not delay it 
by trying to bring the sixty-seven counties up to date. 
Conditions have been so unfavorable for new con- 
struction, since the war, that little has been done. The 
population of towns, however, has been advanced to 
the 1920 statistics. 

A. M. ARCHAMBAULT. 
Philadelphia, June 30, 1924. 


TABLE OF CONTENTS 


PAGE 
STATE FEDERATION OF PENNSYLVANIA WOMEN... I 
HAIL! PENNSYLVANIA. . ERE Ee 
THE PLAN OF THE BOOK.. ee ene, ed ee RTE 
PHILADELPHIA HISTORIC FIRSTS. . MN ae Reus Pre ne | 


I. THE COMMONWEALTH, OR STATE OF PENN- 
SYLVANIA ota G S ‘Woons).. 


II. Bucks COUNTY... eee a eh een TCL 
Ill. CHESTER COUNTY... ee eee nine ening WC 3 
Wy ANCASTER COUNTY: ................. 188 
RPCORK COUNTY he ieee eee a ea 193 
VI. CUMBERLAND COUNTY................... 201 
VII. NORTHAMPTON COUNTY................. 207 
Neri OERKS SOOUNTY. foo etn pe ee 2b 
POR DRORD COUNTY: oo. 2. edhe es ee 223 


X. NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY.............. 227 
XI. WESTMORELAND COUNTY................ 281 
Mise ASHINGTON COUNTY: ): a2. 6200 5) 6. 222.0285 
Oo eee PAYETTIC. COUNTY oe uct ee ee CAL 
Pn PER ANKIAIN COUNTY... o>. i< ecco. ee. 247 
XV. MONTGOMERY COUNTY.................. 258 
ee DAUPRIN: COUNTY | 2) 22) fae viene deinen ZL 
ey eet! ZENE COUNTY s.o2. 6s be sks cule e we, SUL 
XVIII. HUNTINGDON COUNTY................... 285 
Pe PALLEGHENY. COUNTY)... .5 a. 6 2 ke 2 289 
Ree MIFFLIN. COUNTY ©. fev. sig ee ve ee 01 
Xt DELAWARE COUNTY... ¥.2.¢bef3 8 el. 80T 
ei LYCOMING. COUNTY... 24 3 Sete. eta Old 
Dee SOMERSET COUNTY... 22.5 55725, 000". 2.7828 
Be 2 GREENS .COUNTY . 30 ee zee 
Pe eWAYNE COUNTY... -. 4602 (soe eee es oe 881 
erent ADAMS. COUNTY | 0008 eee ee eee Sa1 
Poe OENTER COUNTY 224. AR eS 341 
ey ride DRAVER: COUNTY... 2.0 50.960 can es ee 84 
hole GRAWFORD COUNTY. 2... sus ch doe ODk 


(ix) 


< TABLE OF CONTENTS 
CHAPTER PAGE 
XXX. ER COUNTY the 355 
XX XI. VENANGO COUNTY............ 363 
XXXII... WARREN COUNTY... 02... 2.0 ee 
xXMALTL BuTier COUNTY: 2%) ee 371 
XXXIV. MERCER COUNTY.......... 815 
XXXV. ARMSTRONG COUNTY....... . 879 
XXXVI. INDIANA COUNTY......... . 881 
XXXVII. CAMBRIA COUNTY: ... 2.02...) Soe ee 
XXXVIII. CLEARFIELD COUNTY.......... 391 
XXXIX. TroGaA’ GOUNTY=23:900 ee . 895 
XL. McKEAN COUNTY............ . 899 
XLI. PoTreR COUNTY... .0. 20 ee 
XLII... JEFFERSON COUNTY... 20. 27 G2 ee 
XLII. SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY.................. 409 
XLIV. BRADFORD COUNTY....... ; 413 
XLV. SCHUYLKILL COUNTY......... 419 
XLVI. LEHIGH GOUNTY:):.7...0.0 22 
XLVI. Lepanon: GOUNTY.:) 1. oye . 429 
XLVI. UNIon COUNTY... 22.5, ). 0.3 
XLIX. CoLUMBIA COUNTY?.) 22... 437 
L. PIKE GOUNTY.. 0.04 0), (2 ae 
LI. Perry COUNTY... Uo) eee 
LI. JuNIATA’ COUNTY. 0.142 eee 445 
LITI. Monroge County.......... ee 449 
LIV. CLARION: COUNTY.“ ).. 132 3) sow ee 453 
LV. CLINTON. COUNTY: 20.2) 7 Gee 455 
LVI. WYOMING COUNTY................ 461 
LVII. CARBON .COUNTY.\. 25. .27. 2 ee 
LVIII. ELK County...) 0.0) 3. 
LIX. BLAIR COUNTY: .....5 0052 2) eee 
LX. SULLIVAN COUNTY, 72.5.5 20 eee eres 4 
LXI. Forest COUNTY........... 481 
LXII. LAWRENCE COUNTY....... 485 
LXITI. FunttTon Countvy............ 489 
LXIV. Montour COUNTY.......... 493 
LXV. SNYDER COUNTY. .:.)......... 999 
LXVI. CAMERON COUNTY..../0.....-.) 
LXVITI. LACKAWANNA COUNTY................-. 505 
BIBLIOGRAPHY... ....<.<-< seus «le 9 sath sen 509 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


READING THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. . Frontispiece 
PAGE 


FOURTH OF JULY IN CENTER SQUARE, PHILADELPHIA. 28 
JOHN MARSHALL, CHIEF JUSTICE OF THE UNITED 


STATES, 1808-1835, PHILADELPHIA................ a2 
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN, PHILADELPHIA................ 34 
CAPTAIN NICHOLAS BIDDLE, PHILADLEPHIA.......... 5A 
A QUIET Hour, PHILADELPHIA..................... 58 
THE TRAGIC MUSE, PHILADELPHIA.................. 66 
BISHOP WILLIAM WHITE, PHILADELPHIA............. 86 
eee DUCK. GIRL, PHILADBLPHTA.......5..03.....0058 Lt? 
GEORGE WASHINGTON, PHILADELPHIA............... 116 
BRONZE TABLET IN BOULDER, CHESTER COUNTY..... 176 
BAYARD TAYLOR MONUMENT, LONGWOOD, CHESTER 

Rt el ee RPT C2 0, RE 180 
MAIN BUILDING, FRANKLIN AND MARSHALL COLLEGE, 

LANCASTER, LANCASTER COUNTY...............0.0% 186 
CAVALRY STATUE, ERECTED IN 1904, CENTER SQUARE, 

ervey ORK COUNTY). 3 eo diales oi wk oe ca 198 
DICKINSON COLLEGE, “OLD WEST,” CARLISLE, CUM- 

ie Ee UNI tai Pode wn eee Cea de As Gee 204. 
THE JAIL AT READING, BERKS COUNTY............. 216 
TRINITY CHURCH, READING, BuILT IN 1791, BERKS 

LNs hI ck kn oan 8s Sade od Raa 0 
THE VICTOR, FRANKLIN COUNTY...............-02- 250 


PERKIOMEN BRIDGE, BUILT IN 1798, COLLEGEVILLE, 
MtriCOMMnY COUNTY... 0. eck. cos de beeen 256 
THE JOY AND BURDEN OF LIFE, DAUPHIN COUNTY.. 274 
GALLERY OF THE SCUPTURE HALL, CARNEGIE INSTI- 
TUTE, PITTSBURGH, ALLEGHENY COUNTY .......... 292 
THE CROWNING OF LABOR, ALLEGHENY COUNTY..... 296 
THE BLOcK HOUSE, PITTSBURGH, ALLEGHENY COUNTY. 298 
OLD STONE ARCH ON JACK’S CREEK, MIFFLIN COUNTY. 304 
ALFRED O. DESHING MEMORIAL ART GALLERY, 
mere OELAWARE. COUNTY 2. ooo de iis cs yale 310 
LYCOMING CREEK NEAR WILLIAMSPORT, LYCOMING 


xil ILLUSTRATIONS 


STEPPING STONES, KIMBERLY RIVER, SOMERSET COUNTY 324 
RIVERSIDE PARK, IRVING CLIFF, HONESDALE, WAYNE 


COUNTY 63 225 6s a eo eee 334 
OLD PITTSBURGH AND PHILADELPHIA PIKE, ADAMS 
COUNTY 20.0 on Se i 3388 
CouRT HOUSE AND GOVERNOR CURTIN MEMORIAL, 
BELLEFONTE, CENTER COUNTY..............-00- 344 
DRAKE MOoNUMENT WITH STATUE OF THE DRILLER, 
TITUSVILLE, CRAWFORD COUNTY.................. 354 
WASHINGTON STATUE, ERIE COUNTY: 2... 3. Gee 358 
TRON FURNACE OIL CITY AND VICINITY, VENANGO 
COUNTY «00 ea 4 ale ee Se a 
VINEYARD Hinu, BUTLER COUNTY............2 000s 374 
MURAL PAINTING IN THE DOME OF MERCER COUNTY 
CourT House, MERCER COUNTY................. 376 
THe DEVIL’s ELBOow, EAST OF INDIANA, INDIANA 
COUNTY 2 2. Se 382 
MONUMENT TO THE UNKNOWN DEAD OF THE JOHNSTOWN 
FLOOD, CAMBRIA COUNTY.) .......0... . ae 386 
THE GaP BELOW JOHNSTOWN, CAMBRIA COUNTY..... 388 


ANTIQUE CAPITAL, CHESTER PLACE, WELLSBORO, TIOGA 


KINZUA BRIDGE, MCKEAN COUNTY................-- 400 
ON THE SINNEMAHONING CREEK, POTTER COUNTY... 404 
DEFENSE OF THE FLAG, BRADFORD COUNTY......... 416 
HENRY CLAY IRON MONUMENT, POTTSVILLE, SCHUYL- 
KILL COUNTY. 2020 2 422 
ZION REFORMED CHURCH, ALLENTOWN, SCHUYLKILL 
COUNTY... 05. dogs oe os Su 426 
THe OLDEST CANAL TUNNEL IN THE UNITED STATES, 
LEBANON COUNTY... f2s0220 000: 0a 430 
SAWKILL FALLS, MILFORD, PIKE COUNTY............ 442 
THE SUSQUEHANNA TRAIL, CLINTON COUNTY...... 456 


St. MARK’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, MAUCH 
CHUNK, CARBON COUNTY. J. .020 0.4 00. 0 eee ee 466 


Se CMIMEDPTIIA; COUNTY, .... 0s ya. oe coatiewbecle soe 25 
Me ETICWALKS NO. 1.20000 oe ie ee 8 
PeemratP WALKS NO. 2.05550 .. oS e 86 
PEEVE NC Pea 2 gt ee Ry ee aad a ye 146 
SePRERIECINTY eo ce) te Ces ie LBD 
COMMS OUNS Ye) yn oo rs Ou nen ee ey 4 
Seems OOUNTY. 00. feed oe cn ose ok eke | 184 
yee ee, eee Pee a EOD 
PeEOAND), COUNTY ;. <2. osc coc coe beeen etind 200 
PPORTHAMPTON COUNTY...........00..0062 eiceeaes. 208 


NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY......................... 226 
DA ESTMORELAND COUNTY........<3.-..2...00s$es uss 282 
BMASHINGION COUNTY.............-.2-+0255d sees eee 200 
Seem eee OUNTY 90002 S oe Peo creeks aici een: 242 
Per OE OYUN TY 0k sic ces he eee oP ere beet bake 246 
DAONTGOMERY? COUNTY .......-.0..0 5-000 ce ce decceees 204 


rn OUNTY oss ccccds oo uce stan Oe beck ene 
eI LINT Yoo en Se wns ap ts where a oles 302 
aE RTEI AED CVLINY oo 2 es ea so > hak in OO 
Pere MEeIOOUNTY: .. ica cs foie es oes Stes Flee mUOLS 
ME CONT Y fice, scp in bs dwn os Vee meee 322 
Me UIE oo chive ea ood s oe a8 ea) ee 328 
EMM TTY ee os | viata? oe 332 
SUMMER TRE EY oe eb es 336 


RePeROTTNT Yd sw 5 hy chai Oe Sea 346 
DETIBCCOUNTY ©, 5 cs leis Kiara oh Memes Shee erenes 350 


Rae RCCOUINT Yio on soe Sadie ae SRM EC eee 368 


XIV MAPS 


PAGE 
MERCER COUNTY. (2 ...05.055) Se eee 
ARMSTRONG COUNTY... 0540S Goh a eee 378 
INDIANA COUNTY «©. (. 2.6. Fisseee ne e e 382 
CAMBRIA GCOUNTY®.....0. 2. 36 ee 386 
CTEARFIELD COUNTY...) eo, eee 890 
TIOGA: COUNTY: /..0) 6. 2 eee ee 394 
McKRAN COUNTY...) 200 Ve 400 
POTTER COUNTY... .. 3302) 3 eee 402 


JEFFERSON COUNTY. ......000csa5 tees woe oe 
SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY... 002. ..........,.5) 9 


BRADFORD COUNTY... o. 2.25. 13.3. 2.) eee 412 
SCHUYLKILL COUNTY? .. 0.0 ¢. 0) ve 2. . oe 
Leniegh COUNTY .....50. 2 ee ee ee 424 
LEBANON COUNTY... ..:. 00.20)... 221029). 3a 
UNION COUNTY.) 000225 eee A434 


COLUMBIA COUNTY...9. 027235.) 
PIKE COUNTY.....2.. 020) 3.90 402 ae 4 


PERRY COUNTY... 2 a ee eee 444 
JUNIATA COUNTY: 2002 600 on Yee a 
MONROE COUNTY 200). 0 ele. eee 448 
CLARION COUNTY....... ya eer 452 
CLINTON COUNTY. ...¢0.:0.0 6-028 dee. 24 
WYOMING COUNTY: ....:..2..0.2...... ) 2 ee 460 
CARBON COUNTY... 6024600000000) 2 
ELK COUNTY, 2.05000 23. ee ee 468 
BLAIR COUNTY:;.......0.05..04 ee ee A72 
SULLIVAN COUNTY. .2..02 0000.2 elt) ee 
FOREST COUNTY. o0o02 42 0p eee ae 480 
LAWRENCE COUNTY... 0. J. 0ne.- oon 484 
FULTON COUNTY. ...5. 05. ¢55<3. 4.5 
MONTOUR COUNTY. ..2.20.. 220 2 ee 492 
SNYDER COUNTY... 0040 Jstose oye 496 
CAMERON COUNTY..... 200/04. 674,00) .05 5 500 


PHILADELPHIA HISTORIC FIRSTS 


HE first parks in North America provided for 
the pleasure of the people were dedicated by 


William Penn at the settlement of Philadel- 
phia in 1682. They were the North Eastern, South 
Eastern, North Western, South Western, and Centre 
Squares, now known respectively as Franklin, Wash- 
ington, Logan, Rittenhouse, and Penn Squares. 

In a letter dated 1683, William Penn alludes to the 
glass-house of the Free Society of Traders. Soon after 
this a glass-house was erected at Frankford by English 
Friends. 

The first almanac printed in America was “ Kalen- 
darium Pennsilvaniense, or, America’s Messinger. 
Being an Almanack for the Year of Grace, 1686.” It 
was edited by Samuel Atkins, and published by William 
Bradford, 1685. 

The first paper mill in America was built by William 
Rittenhouse, on the banks of the Wissahickon Creek, 
in the year 1690. 

“A new Primmer or Methodical Direction to attain 
the True Spelling, Reading and Writing of English.” 
This was the first American school textbook; though 
it was published in New York in 1698, its author was 
Francis Daniel Pastorius, founder of Germantown. ‘ 

The first presbytery of the Presbyterian Church in 
the United States was formed in Philadelphia in 1705. 
It was composed of seven ministers, and included 
Philadelphia, Maryland, Delaware, and the Eastern 
shore of Virginia. 

(1) 


2 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


The first botanical garden in America was started 
in 1705 by Dr. Christopher Witt, at the southeast cor- 
ner of Germantown Avenue and High Street. John 
Bartram began his famous gardens in 1728 at Gray’s 
Ferry on the Schuylkill River. 

The first Mennonite Church in America was erected 
in Germantown, at Germantown Avenue and Herman 
Street, the first service being held therein, May 23,1708. 

The first institution in America for the care of the 
poor was the Friends’ Almshouse, established in Phila- 
delphia in 1713. 

First municipal care of the poor in the United States 
was begun by the City of Philadelphia in a rented 
building September 1, 1718; the first building was 
erected in 1731. 

The first Dunkard (Tunker) Church in America was 
formed in Germantown, December 25, 1723, at Ger- 
mantown Avenue and Upsal Street. The first love- 
feast celebrated in this country was observed by them 
the same evening. 

The first association for the benefit of workers (or 
labor organization) in America was the “ Carpenters’ 
Company,”’ established in Philadelphia, in 1724. 

The first mariner’s quadrant, invented by Thomas 
Godfrey, a glazier, of Nineteenth Street and Church 
Lane, Germantown, was made in 1730. First used in 
Delaware Bay by Joshua Fisher. 

In 1727 a literary society was formed here by Frank- 
lin and eleven associates. This was the famous 
“Junto,” and from it originated the Library Company 
of Philadelphia, the first library of a public nature in 
America. The instrument of association was dated 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 3 


July 1, 1731, and the charter granted by the proprietary 
May 3, 1742. 

The first club in America organized as a dining and 
fishing club was the “Colony in Schuylkill,” 1732. 
The name was afterwards changed to the “State in 
Schuylkill.” 

The first German newspaper in America was Die 
Philadelphische Zeitung, published by Benjamin Frank- 
lin, May 6, 1782. There were but two numbers 
issued. | 

The first type made in America was made by Christo- 
pher Saur, the Germantown printer, in 1735. 

The first volunteer fire company in America, “The 
Union Fire Company,” was founded by Franklin and 
four associates, December 7, 1736. It lasted for eighty- 
four years. 

February 13, 1741, The American Magazine, or a 
Monthly View of the Political State of the British Colo- 
nies, was published by Andrew Bradford. This was 
the first magazine published in America. Three days 
later, February 16, 1741, Franklin issued The General 
Magazine and Historical Chronicle for all the British 
Plantations in America. 

The first German Bible printed in America was by 
Christopher Saur, in Germantown, 1743. Saur also 
published the New Testament in German. He issued 
seven editions in the years 1745, 1747, 1748, 1751. 

The first institution in America devoted to science 
and learning was the ‘‘ American Philosophical Society,” 
organized in 1743. By Articles of Agreement, dated 
January 2, 1769, there took place a union between this 
society and “The American Society for Promoting 

2 


4 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


and Propagating Useful Knowledge, held at Philadel- 
phia,”’ the latter an outgrowth of the famous “ Junto” 
established by Franklin and his associates in 1727. 
From the date of union until the present time but one 
society has existed, known as the “American Philo- 
sophical Society.” 

The first lightning rod was placed upon the home of 
its inventor, Benjamin Franklin, at 141 (now 325) Mar- 
ket Street, in 1749. 

In December, 1749, certain Scotchmen living in 
Philadelphia organized the ‘St. Andrew’s Society at 
Philadelphia in Pensilvania.’”’ The object of the 
society was the relief of poor and distressed Scotsmen. 
It was the first organization of the kind in this country. 

The first hospital in America was “‘The Pennsyl- 
vania Hospital,’’ chartered by Assembly of Pennsyl- 
vania, May 11, 1751. 

The first American work on botany was by John 
Bartram and was published in 1751. Its title was 
“Observations on the Inhabitants, Climate, Soil, 
Divers Productions, Animals, etc., made in his travels 
from Pennsylvania to Onondaga, Oswego, and the 
Lake Ontario.” 

The first fire insurance company in America was the 
“Philadelphia Contributionship for the Insurance of 
Houses from Loss by Fire.”’ It was organized April 13, 
1752, and twelve directors chosen at that time, who 
held their first meeting May 11, 1752. At this meeting 
was adopted the well-known seal which has given the 
company its nickname of ‘‘ Hand-in-Hand.”’ 

The first expedition fitted out in the United States 
for Arctic exploration and the discovery of a north- 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 5 


west passage, sailed from Philadelphia on the schooner 
Argo, Captain Charles Swaine, March 8, 1753. 

The first cartoon published in America was the 
famous snake divided into eight parts, representing the 
colonies: New England, New York, New Jersey, Penn- 
sylvania, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, and 
South Carolina, and bore the motto, “Join or die.” 
It was published by Benjamin Franklin in ‘The Penn- 
sylvania Gazette,’’ May 9, 1754, and was called forth 
by the massacres of colonists in the French and Indian 
wars. 

The first life insurance company in this country was 
the “Presbyterian Ministers’ Fund of Philadelphia,”’ 
founded in 1759. 

The first mention of Shakespeare (discovered to date, 
April, 1916) in any American work occurs in “Science, 
A Poem,” by Francis Hopkinson. Published by Wil- 
liam Dunlap in Philadelphia, 1762. 

The first night school in America was opened in the 
Germantown Academy, October 14, 1762. The ses- 
sions were from 6.00 p. m. to 9.00 p. m., each scholar 
to find his own candle and pay 2 shillings 6 pence for 
firewood; the compensation was 10 shillings per 
quarter. 

The first observatory erected in this America was on 
South Street near Front, and was built for Mason and 
Dixon in 17638. 

The first religious magazine in America was the 
“Geistliches Magazine,’ published by Christopher 
Sauer in 1764. 

The first medical school in America was begun by 
the University of Pennsylvania; May 3, 1765. The 


6 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


first medical commencement was held June 21, 1768, 
when ten students were given degrees. 

“Captains of Ships Charitable Club” was instituted 
July 4, 1765, and incorporated February 4, 1770, as 
“The Society for the Relief of Poor and Distressed 
Masters of Ships, their Widows and Children.’ This 
was the first society of its kind organized in America. 

The first permanent theatre in America was the 
“Southwark Theatre,” erected at South and Leithgow 
Streets, Philadelphia. It was opened by David Doug- 
lass, November 21, 1766. 

The first American play was “The Prince of Par- 
thia,”’ by Thomas Godfrey, Jr., a young Philadelphia 
poet, and the son of the inventor of the mariner’s quad- 
rant. It was produced at the Southwark Theatre, 
April 23, 1767. 

The first American publication on pedagogy was “A 
Simple and Thoroughly Prepared School-Manage- 
ment,” by Christopher Dock, “the pious schoolmaster 
of Skippack.” It was published in Germantown by 
Christopher Saur, 1770. 

“The Pennsylvania Packet; and the Gener Adver- | 
tiser,’’ was first issued October 28, 1771. This was a 
weekly publication printed by John Dunlap. In 1784, 
Dunlap had taken as his partner David C. Claypoole, 
and on Tuesday, September 21, 1784, they issued ‘‘ The 
Pennsylvania Packet, and Daily Advertiser.” This 
was the first daily newspaper published in America. 

The first active protest against the importation of 
tea, on account of the obnoxious tax, occurred in Phila- 
delphia (not Boston) in 1778. An immense meeting 
was held in the State House Yard October 16, 1773. 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 7 


Under date of November 27, 1773, a broadside was 
issued warning against an attempt to land any of the 
objectionable article. On Christmas Day the ship 
Polly, Captain Ayres, reached Chester. Captain Ayres 
was brought to Philadelphia and informed of the situa- 
tion. On December 27th he started on his return trip 
to England, taking his cargo of tea with him. The 
people of Boston held their tea party December 16, 
1773, and cast the tea into the harbor, thus entailing a 
heavy loss upon the innocent merchants. 

“The Garden of the Soul: Or, a Manual of Spiritual 
Exercises and Instructions for Christians who (living 
in the World) aspire to Devotion.”’ London; Printed. 
Philadelphia: Re-printed, by Joseph Cruikshank, on 
Market Street, between Second and Third Streets 
(1774). This was the first Roman Catholic prayer 
book printed in English in America. 

“The Society for Promoting the Abolition of Slav- 
ery’’ was founded in Philadelphia in 1774. It was the 
first society in the country formed for this purpose. 
It was reorganized February 10, 1784, as the “Penn- 
sylvania Society for Promoting the Abolition of 
Slavery and for the Relief of Free Negroes Unlawfully 
held in Bondage, and for Improving the Condition of 
the African Race.” 

The earliest mention of the manufacture of carpets 
in this country is that of William Calverly of Loxley’s 
Court, date supposed to be 1774. 

The first joint-stock company formed for the manu- 
facture of cotton was the “United Company of Phila- 
delphia for Promoting American Manufactures.”” The 
first general meeting was held February 22, 1775, and 


8 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


Dr. Benjamin Rush was elected president. This is 
believed to be the first joint-stock company for any 
kind of manufactures in this country. 

The first piano made in the United States was in 
1776, by John Behrent, Jr., joiner, on Third Street 
below Brown. 

The first United States flag is believed to have been 
made in Philadelphia in 1777. 

In 1780 was the first abolition act of America pro- 
viding slavery be abolished in Pennsylvania. 

July 17, 1780, the ‘‘Pennsylvania Bank’ opened 
for business. This was the first bank in the United 
States, and existed until 1784. “The President, 
Directors, and Company of the Bank of North Amer- 
ica’? was chartered by the Continental Congress, 
December 31, 1781. This bank is still in existence and 
is the only bank in the United States operating under 
the National Banking Act which is not required to 
carry the word “National”’ in its official title. 

The first Bible in English produced by an American 
press was the work of Robert Aitken, the Philadelphia 
printer, in 1782. It was issued in two volumes. On 
the back of the title page of the first volume of the copy 
in the British Museum is this note, in the handwriting 
of Robert Aitken: ‘The first copy of the first edition 
of the Bible ever printed in America in the English lan- 
guage, is presented to Ebenezer Hazard, Esq., by the 
Editor.” 

The “Philadelphia Society for Promoting Agricul- 
ture,’ formed in 1785 and incorporated in February, 
1809, was the first agricultural organization in this 
country. Its membership was limited to farmers only. 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 9 


The first General Convention of the Protestant 
Episcopal Church in the United States was held in 
Christ Church, Philadelphia, September 27 to October 
7, 1785. There were present delegates from seven 
states, and it was at this convention that the Church 
was organized in America, and the changes made in 
the Prayer Book necessary for its use in the new nation. 
Rev. William White, D.D., was chosen president of 
the convention. 

The first free dispensary in the United States devoted 
to the relief of the sick and suffering was the Philadel- 
phia Dispensary, founded January, 1786. It was 
opened in Strawberry Alley, April 12, 1786. It is still 
in existence, and is located at 127 South Fifth 
Street. 

First steamboat in the world was built by John 
Fitch, a Philadelphian. The boat was successfully 
operated on the Delaware River, July 26, 1786. An- 
other boat, 80 feet long, was built, and on October 12, 
1788, successfully made the trip from Philadelphia to 
Burlington, carrying thirty passengers. 

The first “College of Physicians’? in America was 
formed in Philadelphia, January 2, 1787. 

The first Roman Catholic Church for Germans was 
organized in Philadelphia in 1787. Ground for a 
building was purchased at the northwest corner of 
Sixth and Spruce Streets. Articles of incorporation 
were granted October 4, 1788, under the title of “The 
Trustees of the German Religious Society of Roman 
Catholics, called the Church of the Holy Trinity in 
the City of Philadelphia.” 

The first medical library in the United States was 


10 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


established in connection with the College of Physi- 
cians in Philadelphia, in April, 1788. 

“The Free African Society” was founded April 12, 
1788, by Absalom Jones and Richard Allen, two negro 
clergymen of Philadelphia. The “African Church,” 
the first church in America exclusively for and con- 
trolled entirely by negroes, was built by this Society, 
and opened for public worship July 17, 1794. It was 
incorporated March 28, 1796, as ‘‘The Miuinister, 
Church Wardens and Vestrymen of the African Episco- 
.pal Church of St. Thomas, in the City of Phila 
delphia.”’ 

In 1789, Lucian’s “Dialogues,” first Greek book 
printed in America, was by Joseph James at Phila 
delphia. 

The Philadelphia Stock Exchange, the first in 
America, originated in 1790, in a building at the south- 
west corner of Front and Market Streets, known as 
the “London Coffee House.” It was known as the 
“Philadelphia Board of Brokers” until the 8th of 
December, 1875, when it was changed to its present 
name, “The Philadelphia Stock Exchange.” 

The first law school in America was opened by the 
University of Pennsylvania, December 15, 1790, Presi- 
dent Washington and the members of his cabinet 
taking part in the exercises. 

Turkish and Axminster carpets were first made in 
this country in 1791, by William Peter Sprague, in the 
Northern Liberties. 

First Bank of the United States, was established in 
Philadelphia, February 25, 1791. 

The first patents for machines for threshing grain in 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS WW 


the world were awarded to Samuel Mulliken, of Phila- 
delphia, March 11, 1791. 

In 1791, Charles Willson Peale established a drawing 
school, which was succeeded in 1794 by “The Colum- 
bianum,” also established by Charles Willson Peale. 
This was the first society in the United States for the 
promotion of the fine arts. 

The first canal in the United States was the “Schuyl- 
kill and Susquehanna Navigation Company,” chartered 
here in 1791. There were 2000 shares of stock at two 
hundred dollars per share, and the officers were Robert 
Morris, president; Timothy Matlack, secretary; and 
Tench Francis, treasurer. 

The first United States Mint was built in Philadel- 
phia, at what is now 87 and 39 North Seventh Street. 
The corner stone was laid July 31, 1792, and the first 
coins, consisting of dimes, half-dimes and cents, were 
struck in October of the same year. David Ritten- 
house, a Philadelphian, was the first director. 

The first company organized in America to do a 
marine insurance business was the “Insurance Com- 
pany of North America,’ organized March, 1792, 
though it did not receive a charter until April 14, 1794. 
In spite of the fact that the granting of the charter was 
delayed, the company commenced doing business 
immediately after its organization in 1792, and there 
is recorded the payment of the first loss June 10, 1798, 
and the first dividend on its stock was paid in January, 
1794. 

“The Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike Com- 
pany,’ the first constructed in the United States. The 
organization of the company was effected in 1792, 


12 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


under authority granted by the Legislature. The 
road was completed in May, 1796. The first regular 
stage left Lancaster at five o’clock in the evening, and 
reached Philadelphia at five o’clock the next morning, 
bringing ten passengers. The original officers of 
the company were William Bingham, president; 
William Moore Smith, secretary; and Tench Francis, 
treasurer. 

The first successful balloon ascension in America 
was made from the old jail yard at the southeast corner 
of Sixth and Walnut Streets, January 9, 1793, by the 
French aéronaut, J. P. Blanchard. 

Sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) was first made in 
America by John Harrison in 1798. He was also the 
first to attempt to produce nitric acid. 

“The Female Society for the Relief of the Distressed ”’ 
was the first society organized in this country for the 
temporary assistance of the distressed. It was formed 
in November, 1798; and the first meeting was held in 
the house of Isaac Parrish, at the southeast corner of 
Second Street and Pewterplatter Alley. 

Ice cream was first made in this country by Peter 
Bossu, a Frenchman, who settled in Philadelphia in 
1794. The first advertisement of ice cream appears in 
The Aurora for July 22, 1800. 

The first printing press made in America was con- 
structed by Adam Ramage, in 1795. 

“The United States Gazetteer,’’ the first in this coun- 
try, was compiled by Joseph Scott, and printed by 
Bailey at 116 Market Street, Philadelphia, in the year 
1795. 

The “First American Edition” of Shakespeare’s 


& 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 13 


complete works was issued in Philadelphia in 1795, by 
Bioren and Madan. 

To “Ambroise & Company,’’ Mulberry Street (now 
Arch Street), between Eighth and Ninth, belongs the 
honor of being the first in America to manufacture in- 
flammable gas and exhibit the effect of gas light. This 
exhibition took place in August, 1796, in connection 
with a pyrotechnic display. 

Philadelphia introduced the first municipal water 
works in America, using a steam pump. Ground was 
broken March 12, 1799; the first brick was laid May 
2, 1799; the first pipe (which was of wood) was put in 
place June 18, 1799; and the same day was begun the 
foundation of the engine house in Centre Square. The 
first water was sent through the pipes January 27, 
1801. 

The first person to make “artificial mineral water,”’ 
or soda water, in America, was John Hart, a Philadel- 
phia druggist. He did this about the beginning of 
the Nineteenth century (exact date not known), at 
the suggestion of Dr. Physick, to imitate waters found 
in certain mineral springs. 

The first United States Navy Yard was established 
in Philadelphia in 1800. It occupied about twelve 
acres and extended from Prime Street (now Washington 
Avenue) to Wharton Street, and from Front Street to 
the Delaware River. In 1875 it was moved to League 
Island and the old property sold. 

The first frigate of the United States Navy, the 
Philadelphia, was built in 1800, by Joshua Humphreys, 
near Washington Avenue. 

The first mercurials made in the United States were 


14 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


produced in 1801 by Dr. Adam Seybert, a druggist, 
whose shop was at 168 North Second Street. 

The oxy-hydrogen blowpipe was invented in 1801, 
by Professor Robert Hare of Philadelphia. 

Charles Eneu Johnson, in 1804, produced the first 
printing ink made in America. His firm is still in 
business and is known as Charles Eneu Johnson & 
Company. 

The first land steam carriage, or automobile, in the 
world was invented by Oliver Evans, in 1804. The 
Kruktor Amphibolis, a machine for cleaning docks, 
mounted on a wagon, was propelled along Market 
Street, from Centre Square to the Schuylkill River. 
At the river a stern wheel was attached and the vessel 
launched; the machine was navigated by steam on 
the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, and was used to 
deepen the docks. 

In 1804, Samuel Wetherill and his son, Samuel, ae 
erected a white lead manufactory at the northwest 
corner of Broad and Chestnut Streets, and it was here 
that the first white lead in this country was produced. 
English manufacturers were so opposed to this industry 
being established in the United States that they sent 
an emissary to this country, who destroyed the works 
by fire. They were rebuilt in 1808 at Twelfth and 
Cherry Streets, and in 1847 moved to West Philadel- 
phia on the banks of the Schuylkill, where the business 
is still carried on by the fifth succeeding generation. 

The first commission house in the United States for 
the sale of American manufactures was established in 
Philadelphia, in 1805, by Elijah Waring. — 

The first institution in the United States for the 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 15 


teaching of art was the “ Pennsylvania Academy of the 
Fine Arts.” The Articles of Agreement were signed 
December 26, 1805, by seventy-one citizens. George 
Clymer was chosen president. The charter was 
granted March 28, 1806, and it was opened to the 
public in 1807. 

The first orphan society in the United States was the 
“Roman Catholic Society of St. Joseph for Educating 
and Maintaining Poor Orphan Children.” It was 
organized by Rev. Leonard Neale, in 1806, and received 
a charter the following year. 

The first riveted hose for fire use in the United States 
was made in Philadelphia in 1808. 

“American Ornithology’’ was the work of Alexander 
Wilson, a resident of Philadelphia. Eight volumes 
were issued, the first in September, 1808. It was pub- 
lished in Philadelphia by Bradford, and was the first 
book upon ornithology published in this country. 

The first American shot was made in Philadelphia, 
two towers being completed at practically the same 
time. The advertisements appear under the following 
dates: 

Bishop & Sparks, October 20, 1808. 
Paul Beck, October 27, 1808. 

The first Bible Society in America was instituted 
December 12, 1808, and was incorporated January 30, 
1810, as the “Bible Society of Philadelphia.” By an 
amendment to the charter, dated March 7, 1840, the 
name was changed to the “ Pennsylvania Bible Society,” 
which name has been retained to the present day. 

The first cotton goods printed from engraved cylin- 
ders in the United States were produced near German- 


16 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


town in 1809 by Thorp, Siddall & Co., from cylinders 
brought from England. 

The first experimental railroad track in the United 
States was constructed by Somerville, a Scotch mill- 
wright, for Thomas Leiper of Philadelphia, and laid 
down in the yard of the Bull’s Head Tavern, on Second 
Street above Callowhill, in the Northern Liberties. It 
was sixty-four feet in length. The test was made July 
31, 1809, and was so successful that Leiper had a rail- 
road constructed at his quarries on Crum Creek, in 
Delaware County, September, 1809. This was the 
first practical railroad built in the United States. 

First institution in the United States chartered to do 
a trust business was the “Pennsylvania Company for 
Insurances on Lives and Granting Annuities.”” Appli- 
cation for charter made January, 1810; refused by the 
House of Representatives, but finally granted March 
10, 1812. 

The first chemical society in America was the “ Co- 
lumbian Chemical Society,” formed in Philadelphia in 
1811. 

The first soup society in America was the “ Northern 
Soup Society,” on Fourth Street above Brown, formed 
January, 1817. 

The “‘Academy of Natural Sciences” was the first 
of its kind in the United States. It was organized 
January 25, 1812, by John Speakman, Jacob Gilliams, 
and four others. The society was incorporated by the 
Pennsylvania Legislature, March 24, 1817. 

The first lithograph published in the United States 
was a portrait of Rev. Abner Kneeland, by Bass Otis, 
in 1818. 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 17 


John Farr, a chemist of Philadelphia, in 1818 intro- 
duced into this country the manufacture of Seidlitz 
powders. He associated with him in business Abram 
Kunzi, and as Farr & Kunzi, located on Arch Street 
near Twelfth, they manufactured the first quinine in 
the United States. This firm, by various steps, has 
become a part of the Powers-Weightman-Rosengarten 
Company. 

First savings bank, the “Philadelphia Saving Fund 
Society,’’ commenced business December 2, 1816. 
Chartered February 25, 1819. 

The first church in the world for seamen was erected 
in Philadelphia about 1820, under the leadership of 
Rev. Robert Eastburn. It was known as the “Mar- 
iner’s Bethel.” 

The “Philadelphia Law Library,” first in the United 
States, was established in 1821, under the auspices of 
“The Society for the Promotion of Legal Knowledge 
and Forensic Eloquence.” 

The “Philadelphia College of Pharmacy” was the 
first institution of its kind in the world. The organiza- 
tion meeting was held in Carpenters’ Hall, February 
23, 1821. Instruction was begun in the fall of the 
same year, with Charles Marshall as president of the 
institution. The charter was granted March 30, 1822. 

The first engraved cylinders for calico printing made 
in the United States were made in Philadelphia, in 
1822, by David H. Mason and Matthew W. Baldwin. 

In 1827, William Ellis Tucker, of Philadelphia, was 
the first in America to manufacture porcelain and china- 
ware. In 1831 he started the first American queens- 


ware factory, 


18 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, the first of 
its kind in America, was organized at a meeting held 
in the hall of the Franklin Institute, Seventh Street 
below Market, November 24, 1827. It was incorpo- 
rated March 23, 1831. 

The first one-cent newspaper in the country was The 
Cent, published in 1830, by Dr. Christopher Columbus 
Conwell, at Second and Dock Streets, Philadelphia. 

The first building and loan association in the United 
States was the “Oxford Provident and Building Asso- 
ciation,” organized in Frankford in 1831. The officers 
were Isaac Whitelock, president; Isaac Shallcross, 
secretary; and Samuel Pilling, treasurer. 

In 1832, George D. Rosengarten made the first mor- 
phine in the United States. 

The first public high school in the United States was 
established in Philadelphia in 1836. The first building 
was erected in 1887-88 on Juniper Street fronting on 
Penn Square, now occupied by the Wanamaker Store. 
The school was opened October 26, 1838, when a class 
of sixty-three pupils was admitted. 

The first daguerreotype portrait in America was 
made in Philadelphia by Robert Cornelius, November, 
1839, at 710 Chestnut. (Portrait of himself.) 

The first homeopathic medical college in the world, 
the “North American College of Homeopathic Medi- 
cine,’ was organized in Allentown, Pa., in 1885. The 
second was the “Homeopathic Medical College of 
Philadelphia,” organized in 1848. The next in order 
was the ‘Washington Medical College of Philadel- 
phia,” chartered May 2, 1853. This last named insti- 
tution changed its name, July 17, 1867, to the “ Hahne- 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 19 


mann Medical College of Philadelphia.” The first of 
these institutions lasted a very short time; and by 
act of Legislature, dated April 2, 1869, the second and 
third were united under the title of the “‘ Hahnemann 
Medical College of Pennsylvania.”’ This institution 
can thus claim to be the oldest of its kind in the world, 
and though not technically the first, it is practically so. 

The first American grand opera, ‘‘Leonora,” was 
composed by William H. Fry, a Philadelphian; the 
words were written by his brother, Joseph R. Fry. It 
was produced at the Chestnut Street Theatre, June 4, 
1845, by Pratt & Wemyss. 

The first free college for orphan boys in the United 
States was established in Philadelphia under the will 
of Stephen Girard. Girard College was opened January 
1, 1848, with a class of one hundred boys. 

The first comic weekly in America was The John 
Donkey, edited by Thomas Dunn English and G. G. 
Foster. Illustrated by F. O. C. Darley and Henry L. 
Stephens. Published in Philadelphia by G. B. Zieber 
& Company, 1848. 

“The Woman’s Medical College of Pennsylvania’’ 
is the oldest college in the world organized to train 
women in the medical profession. It was incorporated 
March 11, 1850. 

The Spring Garden Institute, the first of the mechan- 
ics institutes in the United States, was chartered April 
12, 1851. The corner-stone of the building was laid 
July 8, 1851, and the building was dedicated November 
12,1852. 

The first English translation of the Hebrew Bible 
published in America was the result of eighteen years’ 

3 


20 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


work of Rev. Isaac Leeser. It was published in Phila- 
delphia in 1854. 

The first Republican National Convention met in 
Musical Fund Hall, June 18, 1856, with Henry S. Lane, 
of Indiana, as Chairman. John C. Fremont was nomi- 
nated for president of the United States, and William 
L. Dayton, of New Jersey, for vice-president. 

The process of sugar-coating pills was begun in 1856 
by William R. Warner & Co., manufacturing chemists 
of Philadelphia. This was done in a pan suspended by 
a chain over a charcoal fire. The original pan is still 
preserved by the firm. 

The first society in America distinctively devoted to 
numismatic research was the ‘Numismatic Society,” 
organized in Philadelphia, December 27, 1857, by 
seven men. It received its charter February 19, 1858. 
On March 28, 1865, the name was changed to “The 
Numismatic and Antiquarian Society.” 

The ‘ Zodlogical Society”? was incorporated in 1859; 
and in Fairmount Park, north of the Spring Garden 
Water Works, began the first zodlogical garden in the 
United States. They later moved across the river to 
their present site, and the new buildings and grounds 
were opened to the public July 1, 1874. 

April 8, 1861, John Wanamaker opened a men’s 
clothing store at Sixth and Market Streets. Fifteen 
years later, 1876, having been removed to Thirteenth 
and Market Streets, it had “six departments for the 
outfitting of men and boys.’”’ On March 12, 1877, it 
was resolved into a general store having sixteen depart- 
ments covering all classes of dry goods. Thisis believed 
to have been the first “department store” in the United 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 21 


States, probably in the world. This same store, in 
1865, made the first announcements of the “one price 
system,” and that anything sold could be brought back 
for refund of money. The Wanamaker store at Thir- 
teenth and Market Streets was lighted by electricity 
on the night after Christmas, 1878, being the first store 
ever so lighted. 

First bank chartered under the National Banking 
Act, the “First National Bank of Philadelphia,” June 
20, 1868. The first “National Currency’’ was issued 
by this bank. 

The first Stock Exchange Clearing House in the 
United States was established here in August, 1870. 

The first organization in the world for the insurance 
of real estate titles was “‘The Real Estate Title Insur- 
ance Company of Philadelphia,’ chartered March 28, 
1876. By an amendment to the charter, under date 
of December 3, 1881, the title was changed to “The 
Real Estate Title Insurance and Trust Company of 
Philadelphia.”’ 

The first international fair held in this country was 
the Centennial Exhibition held in Philadelphia, May 
10 to November 10, 1876. It is the only fair of its kind 
that has paid its own expenses, and received no appro- 
priation from Congress. 

Philadelphia is known as the city of the Easter lily. 
It was brought from Bermuda in 1879 by Mrs. Mary 
Rogers, who propagated it until in three years there 
were 100 specimens; then William K. Harris, a florist, 
Fifty-sixth Street and Springfield Avenue, introduced 
it in both Philadelphia and New York. 

The Philadelphia Bourse, the first and, as yet, the 


22 PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 


only one in the United States, was chartered June 25, 
1891, and completed and opened for business October 
1, 1895. 

The ‘Wistar Institute of Anatomy,” founded in 
1892, by General Isaac Wistar, and connected with 
the University of Pennsylvania, is the first anatomical 
and neurological institute established in the United 
States. 

Philadelphia was the first city to inaugurate a service 
by pneumatic tubes for the general carriage of first- 
class mail. A six-inch tube connecting the Bourse sta- 
tion with the Central Post Office at Ninth Street was 
put in service February 17, 1893, and is still in opera- 
tion. Eight-inch tubes have been used in lines since 
installed, and have a capacity of 7,200,000 letters per 
day each way. 

The first concrete arch highway bridge in the United 
States was built in 1893 by the City of Philadelphia at 
Pine Road over the Pennypack Creek. 

The first institution established in the United States 
for the advancement of business and trade in all 
branches, both domestic and foreign, was the “‘Com- 
mercial Museum.” It was projected by Dr. William 
P. Wilson, and established by ordinance of Philadel- 
phia City Council, approved June 15, 1894. 

The first successful electric automobile was designed 
and built by two Philadelphians, Henry G. Morris and 
Pedro G. Salom. It was patented August 31, 1894. 

The first hospital train sent out during the Spanish 
War, for the relief of the fever-stricken soldiers in the 
mobilization camps, was sent by the University of 
Pennsylvania, and the soldiers were brought to and 


PHILADELPHIA FIRSTS 23 


treated in the Hospital of that institution. This train 
left Philadelphia August 17, 1898. 

The first Automatic Restaurant (Automat) in 
America was opened June 9, 1902, at 818 Chestnut 
Street, Philadelphia, by the Horn & Hardart Bak- 
ing Co. 


I 


THE COMMOMWEALTH, OR STATE OF 
PENNSYLVANIA (PENN’S WOODS) 


\ , Y ITH a royal grant for 40,000 square miles 

of land in the New World, William Penn, 

thirty-eight years old, came up the Delaware 

River in 1682 and landed at the Blue Anchor Inn, built 

by the Swedes in 1636. The state now covers 45,126 
square miles. 

No eastern state contains forests of such varied and 
abundant timber, or extensive mineral deposits. Ac- 
cording to official reports of the state geologist, one 
and one-third billion dollars’ worth of mineral products 
were taken from below ground in 1916; of these coal is 
the greatest wealth producer, over $1,000,000,000 annu- 
ally, the production being nearly one-half that of the 
entire United States; the supply is still ample and 
new fields are being opened. Over $100,000,000 in 
coke; and more than $42,000,000 in its by-products. 
Petroleum counts for $26,000,000. Gold, silver, plat- 
inum, and asbestos are found in small quantities. 
Natural gas has been used in this state for manufac- 
turing purposes since 1874. This is the greatest 
manufacturing region in the world, and has the richest 
agricultural land in the United States. Pennsylvania 
stands first among the states in the Union in the num- 
ber of towns over 5000 in population, making it a 
remarkable selling market. PHILADELPHIA, the chief 
city, and third in population, 1,823,779, in the United 

(24) 


SCALE IN MILES 
4 


8 i2 16 


? © & 
RTON —9U ES» 


JERS ENG 





PHILADELPHIA COUNTY 


(25) 


26 THE COMMONWEALTH 


States, is on the site of a village of the Lenni Lenape or 
Delaware Indians, called Coaquanarck. Through 
William Penn’s liberal policy to early settlers, and later 
being the seat of government of the United States, 
many national institutions were originated here, and 
many more historical buildings are here than in any 
other city in America. It comprises the whole of Phila- 
delphia County, and has a distinctive character of its 
own, reminiscent of the old Quaker life, which is given 
in this book in two Colonial Walks; the Revolutionary 
Period is given in automobile routes, framed on Wash- 
ington’s itinerary; and modern institutions, many of 
them continuing from colonial times, are in chapters, 
schools, galleries and museums, hospitals, libraries, 
music, churches. Philadelphia was the leader in the 
fight for “Liberty of Conscience.” 

The obvious picturesqueness of Philadelphia is in 
the Pennsylvania Hospital, Independence Hall, Christ 
Church, Old Swedes’, St. Peter’s. Down in lower 
Spruce Street and neighboring streets are beautiful 
colonial houses, stately doorways, decorative ironwork, 
dormer windows, great gables, facing each other at 
street corners in harmonious proportions. In not 
another town were the old streets so well worth keeping 
unchanged. The early Friends, when they left England, 
packed up, with their “Liberty of Conscience,” the 
love of beauty in architecture and the money to pay 
for it. In a fine period of English architecture, they 
got good English architects—Wren is said to have been 
of the number—to design, not only their public build- 
ings, but their private houses; and carried over in their 
personal baggage, paneling, carvings, ironwork, furni- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 27 


ture and the various details they were not likely to 
procure in Philadelphia. 

Long straight lines of streets give the town serenity 
and repose. 


elena el ve chee] a= 
RACE , i E 
CHERRY Cs ad Loria Loe Eee BS Been ae A Fad Fr 
ARCH toe ee 2 

| 

owe Jee Baise 

Be OES 
CHESTNUT | PA < 
SANSOM (SSS Pe eb Pel aed Ea BO Bo 
WALNUT TOTES a a ee ee 


1. Independence Hall. Sieber pee Square. 3. Philosophical 
Society. 4. U.S. Custom House. 5. Carpenters’ Hall. 6. Bank of 
North America. 7. Christ Church. 8. Site St. George and the 
Dragon Inn. 9. Betsey Ross House. 10. Friends’ Meeting House. 
11. St. George’s M. E. Church. 12. St. John’s Lutheran Church. 
13. Christ Church Burial Ground. 14. Free Quaker Building. 
15. Fort Rittenhouse. 16. Mikveh Israel Synagogue. 17. First U. 
S. Mint. 18. Site Robert Morris Residence. 19. Site President 
Washington’s Residence. 20. Site Pennsylvania National Bank. 
21. Franklin Institute. 


COLONIAL PHILADELPHIA, WALK NO. 1 


The Quaker City; Penn’s “Green country towne.” 

Start at the STATE HOUSE, called INDEPENDENCE 
HALL in 1776; open free 9 A.M. to 4 P.M.; south side 
of Chestnut Street between Fifth and Sixth. The 
most interesting building historically in the United 
States. Architect, Andrew Hamilton, speaker in the 
Assembly; Georgian, brick; erected for the Province 


28 THE COMMONWEALTH . 


of Pennsylvania as a Colonial State House. Tower 
has wooden cupola built in 1828, containing clock and 
bell, presented to the City by Henry Seybert, in 1876. 

First occupied by the Assembly in 1735. Second 
Continental Congress met here May 10, 1775. George 
Washington was chosen Commander in Chief of the 
Continental Army June 15, 1775. Declaration of 
Independence approved July 4, 1776. Articles of Con- 
federation and perpetual union between the States 
were adopted and signed July 9, 1778. Constitution 
of the United States of America, long the pride of 
Americans, and the model for friends of freedom 
throughout the world, was formed and signed Sep- 
tember 17, 1787. 

Lafayette was received here in 1824. 

The body of Abraham Lincoln rested in state, 
April 22-24, 1865. 

Second National Encampment, Grand Army of the 
Republic, January, 1868, when annual Memorial Day, 
May 30, was instituted by Major General John A. 
Logan. It was observed the same year by posts of the 
Grand Army of the Republic and the public. 

The Liberty Bell was rung July 8, 1776, in celebration 
of the Declaration of Independence; inscription on bell, 
“‘Proclaim liberty throughout all the land, unto all 
the inhabitants thereof” (Leviticus xxv: 10). It was 
hung in the tower in 1755, and it was cracked while 
being tolled for the death of Chief Justice John Mar- 
shall July 8, 1835; not rung since 1843. 

Portraits of the Signers of the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, painted chiefly by Charles Willson Peale, and 
his portrait of Washington are here. Benjamin West’s 


s14p aury ay) fo hwapvay viuvajisuuag ay} fo hsajinop 


jamunsy  uyor hq paw 


VIHdIAGVTIHd “AYVOAOS UALNAO NI ATOL AO HLYNOd 








THE COMMONWEALTH 29 


painting, ‘Penn’s Treaty with the Indians’; a large 
collection of portraits of Pennsylvania men notable in 
the government of the Commonwealth; and a collec- 
tion of forty-five small historic portraits in pastel by 
James Sharples. On Chestnut Street front is a marble 
statue of Washington; sculptor, J. A. Bailey; erected 
in 1869 by contributions of the public-school children 
of Philadelphia. 

The building was renovated and restored in 1897 to 
its early appearance. Small buildings connecting west, 
contain colonial relics; east, Revolutionary relics. 
West, open porch leads to CONGRESS HALL, corner of 
Sixth Street, built in 1789 for Court House of Phila- 
delphia County; Georgian, occupied by the Federal 
Congress, 1790-1800, after necessary alterations by 
Major L’Enfant. First floor, House of Representa- 
tives; second floor, Senate Chamber; gallery added in 
1795. Here Washington was inaugurated President, 
second term, March 4, 1793; and John Adams, second 
President of the United States, in 1797. National 
Currency was established. First National Bank 
founded. Army and Navy organized. Jay’s Treaty 
determining relations with England considered and 
ratified. Official announcement of Washington’s death 
in 1799 was made, and resolution offered by Chief Jus- 
tice John Marshall, to pay honor to the man “First in 
war, first in peace, first in the hearts of his countrymen.”’ 

Contains sculptures in wood by William Rush; statue 
of Washington carved in 1815; also eagle on globe, 
portrait of Michael Hillegas, first Treasurer of the 
United States until 1789, and other paintings. 

Building restored 1896, through the Pennsylvania 


30 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Society, Colonial Dames of America; architect, William 
Ziegler. 

Corner of Fifth Street, SUPREME COURT HOUSE, or 
the old City HALL, built in 1789. Second floor occu- 
pied by the First Supreme Court of the United States, 
1791-1800. Mayor’s Office until 1896. Later head- 
quarters Boy Scouts and Grand Army of the Republic. 
Now restored to first appearance; museum, Colonial 
and American Indian collections, paintings. 

In 1783, STATE HOUSE YARD was improved, elms 
planted, walks laid out, and seats placed. Contains 
statue of Commodore Barry. 104 South Fifth Street, 
in State House Yard, the American Philosophical 
Society, built 1789, brick, Georgian; originated in 
“The Junto,” formed by Benjamin Franklin 1727. 
See Historic Institutions. 

Southeast corner of Fifth and Chestnut Streets, site 
residence of William Moore Smith, son of first provost 
of the University of Pennsylvania. Washington’s 
portrait was painted here by Gilbert Stuart. 

Northeast corner of Fifth and Sansom Streets, site 
Philadelphia Library 1790-1830. 

427 Chestnut Street, site of Lawrence mansion, 
Howe’s headquarters, 1777-78. 

421 Chestnut Street, site of United States Hotel. 
Charles Dickens stayed here March, 1842, first visit to 
America. 

South side of Chestnut Street, below Fifth, United 
States Custom House; marble, classic; Dorie portico; 
built 1819; architect, John Haviland. 

Northwest corner of Fourth and Chestnut Streets, 
Provident Life and Trust Company, of Philadelphia, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 31 


modern; contains oil portraits of the directors; among 
the artists represented are Bernard Uhle, Cecilia Beaux, 
and Thomas Eakins. 

Southeast corner of Fourth and Chestnut Streets, 
site of Friends meeting-house in 1701, later site of 
Mathew Carey’s book store in 1800. 

3820 Chestnut Street, head of Carpenters’ Court. 
CARPENTERS’ HALL; open free daily 9 A. M. to 3 P. M., 
Saturdays to 12.30 P. M.; Georgian, brick; built, 1770 
for use of the Carpenters’ Company, founded in 
1724. 

307 Chestnut Street, Bank of North America; 
founded in 1781 on the same ground; oldest and first 
bank, chartered by Congress, in the United States. 
Through Robert Morris, the first president, victory 
was made possible to Washington and the Continental 
Army. Contains portrait of Robert Morris. 

Third Street above Chestnut; Post Office in 1718; 
later Judd’s Hotel during war of 1812. . 

27 South Third Street, site United States Post Office, 
1792. 

250 Chestnut Street, site first United States Treasury, 
1798. 

243 Chestnut Street, site of residence of Governor 
Thomas Lloyd in 1684, appointed by William Penn. 

Letitia Street, west side above Chestnut, east of 
Second; site of Letitia House, William Penn’s residence, 
moved to Fairmount Park. 

Southeast corner of Second and Black Horse Alley, 
above Chestnut Street, site Bradford House and print- 
ing office, used for colonial Post Office, 1728; Andrew 
Bradford, postmaster; in 1719 he published the first 


32 THE COMMONWEALTH 


newspaper in Pennsylvania, The Mercury, a weekly, 
second in America. 

Southwest corner of Front and Market Streets, 
site of London Coffee House, in 1754, where, in 1780, 
Robert Morris met with others to consider the estab- 
lishment of the first bank. Horses, slaves, and cattle 
were sold here. 

About 221-23 North Water Street, site Stephen 
Girard’s last residence. 

111 Spring Street, west of Front, above Race, said 
to have been residence of Benjamin Franklin 1723-26; 
brick, three stories and attic; still standing. 

Jones’s Alley, above Market Street, west from 14 
North Front Street, site Robert Grace’s residence, 
where the “Junto Club” met in 1727. 

110 Market Street, site Robert Aitken’s Printing 
Office in 1782; he printed the first English Bible in 
America. 

Southwest corner of Second and Market Streets, site 
Friends’ first meeting-house, 1695-1808, on land 
donated by George Fox, founder of the Society. 

Middle of Market Street, at Second, facing east, 
site of old Court House, built 1710; used as town hall 
and seat of the Legislature until the State House was 
built in 1735. Acceptance of the United States Con- 
stitution was here proclaimed to the people December 
13, 1787; shown in large painting by Birch, made in 
1829, now in City Hall, Broad and Market Streets. 

25 North Second Street, office Peter Porcupine’s 
Gazette, edited by William Cobbett, a keen satirist. 

'CHRIST CHURCH, west side of Second Street, north 
of Market, built 1695. (See Churches.) 





JOHN MARSHALL, CHIEF JUSTICE OF THE 
UNITED STATES, 1808-1835 


From the original in the possession of the Law Association of 
Philadelphia 
Painted by Henry Inman 





THE COMMONWEALTH 33 


200 Arch Street, site Saint George and the Dragon 
Inn, built 1700, kept by Nicholas Scull, member 
Franklin’s “Junto,” in 1727; sheriff in 1744; he pub- 
lished a map of the city in 1750. Oldest Inn building 
standing; from 1791-93 it was kept by John Inskeep, 
Mayor of Philadelphia, 1800-05. Stage coaches for 
New York and Baltimore left here regularly. 

No. 239 Arch Street, BETsy Ross Houss, two-story, 
brick, marked by tablet; now property of American 
Flag House and Betsy Ross Memorial Association. 
She made the first flag adopted by the United States, 
from pencil drawing by Washington, who with Robert 
Morris and George Ross, called on her to give the com- 
mission; the flag was accepted by Congress June 14, 
1777, and is now one of the oldest flags in the world, 
older than those of France, Spain, Germany, Russia, 
Italy, and Austria. John Paul Jones was first to fly 
the new flag. Betsy Ross lived to be eighty-four, dying 
in 1836; she is buried in Mount Moriah Cemetery, 
where a flag continously flies over her grave, instituted 
by the Sons of Veterans. Flag Day was first inaugu- 
rated in Philadelphia, 1893. 

226 Race Street, site First Moravian Church, 1742- 
1856. 

267 Race Street, site residence of Benjamin Franklin 
about 1749. 

325 Market Street, site residence of Benjamin 
Franklin, where he first invented the lightning rod, 
about 1749-50; in 1752, first lightning rod used in the 
world was set up by Franklin, southeast corner of 
Second and Race Streets. 

229 North Fourth Street, Saint George’s, oldest 


34 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Methodist Church in the world, used continuously for 
worship; dedicated November 24, 1769. 

Fourth Street above Race, St. Augustine’s Roman 
Catholic Church, 1796; destroyed in the riot of 1844; 
rebuilt in 1846. 

Old St. John’s Church, Race Street between Fifth 
and Sixth; first English Luthern Church in America, 
built 1806. 

Southeast corner of Fourth and Cherry Streets, site 
Zion Luthern Church (German), built 1766; in 1790 
its organ was considered the finest in America. 

Northeast corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, James 
Russell Lowell stayed here with his bride in 1845. 

Southeast corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, Friends 
meeting-house; oldest in Philadelphia, built in 1804; 
since 1811 it has been used for the Philadelphia Yearly 
Meeting of Orthodox Friends, and is said to be largest 
in the world. (See Historic Burial Grounds.) 

Southwest corner of Fourth and Arch Streets, site 
of residence built for William Smith, D.D., before 1762. 
First provost of the University of Pennsylvania. 

Fourth Street, west side, below Arch, site of the 
Academy in 1749; beginning of the University, marked 
with tablet. 

Southeast corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, Christ 
Church burial ground. (See Burial Grounds.) 

Southwest corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, Free 
Quaker Building; tablet, inscription ‘ By general sub- 
scription for the Free Quakers; erected in the year 
of our Lord 1788, and of the Empire 8.” “Fighting 
Quakers,’ who fought in the Revolutionary War 
against peace principles of the sect. The Appren- 





BENJAMIN FRANKLIN 
From the collection in Independence Hall 
Painted by B. T. Welch 





THE COMMONWEALTH 35 


tices’ Library, organized 1820 in Carpenters’ Hall, for 
many years only free library in Philadelphia, occupied 
the building after 1850. Later used by the Grand 
Lodge of Masons. 

515 Cherry Street, residence of Bass Otis in 1819, 
who made the first American lithograph. 

528 Arch Street, site, Pennsylvania College of Den- 
tal Surgery, first in Philadelphia, founded 1852; now 
absorbed by the University of Pennsylvania. 

627 Arch Street, site, Woman’s Medical College, 
first in America to graduate women physicians, founded 
1850. 

Southeast corner of Seventh and Arch Streets, resi- 
dence of David Rittenhouse in 1770. 

Northwest corner of Seventh and Arch Streets, Fort 
Rittenhouse; residence of David Rittenhouse, 1787; 
treasurer of Pennsylvania. 

117 North Seventh Street, site, Mikveh Israel Syna- 
gogue, built in 1747. Removed to Broad and York 
Streets. 

37-39 North Seventh Street, first United States 
Mint, 1792. David Rittenhouse, superintendent. 

Southeast corner of Sixth and Market Streets, site 
of Robert Morris residence; next to it, on Market 
Street, 580-536, site of President Washington’s man- 
sion and John Adams, second President; originally 
built for Richard Penn. 

700 Market Street, Penn National Bank. House 
where Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of 
Independence. 

801 Market Street, site, office of Thomas Jefferson, 
Secretary of State. 

oy 


36 THE COMMONWEALTH 


About 808 Market Street, site, residence of Thomas 
Jefferson, in 1791. 
15 South Seventh Street, Franklin Institute, founded 


1824; classic architecture, marble; John Haviland, 
architect. 


COLONIAL WALK NO. 2 
Southeast corner of Ninth and Chestnut Streets, 


a 
= 
S 


MARKET 






CHESTNUT 


SANSOM 
WALNUT 
LOCUST or PB 


SPRUCE 


ELAWARE RIVER 


PINE 


LOMBARD 


SOUTH 


1. Continental Hotel. 2. Post Office. 3. Walnut Street Theatre. 
4. Musical Fund Hall. 5. Potter House. 6. Jewish Cemetery. 
7. Pennsylvania Hospital. 8. Morris House. 9. Holy Trinity R. C. 
Church. 10. Washington Square. 11. The Anthenaeum. 12. St. 
Mary’s R. C. Church. 13. Old Pine Street Presbyterian Church. 
14. St. Peter’s P. E. Church. 15. Market. 16. Site Blue Anchor Inn. 
17. Site Slate Roof House. 18. Stock Exchange. 19. St. Paul’s P. E. 
Church. 20. Girard Bank. 21. St. Joseph’s R. C. Church. 22. Con- 
tributionship Fire Insurance. 23. Dispensary. 


site, Cook’s Museum and Circus; first mummies 
brought to the United States are said to have been 
shown here. 

Northwest corner of Ninth and Chestnut Streets, 
UNITED STATES POST OFFICE, built in 1884 on site of 


THE COMMONWEALTH 37 


the Mansion House, built for the official residence of 
President Washington, but never occupied; used for 
the University of Pennsylvania. Bronze statue of 
Benjamin Franklin, sculptor, John Boyle; Chestnut 
Street front, inscription by Washington: ‘ Venerated 
for Benevolence, admired for Talent, esteemed for 
Patriotism, beloved for Philanthropy’; bronze bust, 
President McKinley in corridor; sculpture group on 
roof by D. C. French. 

Northeast corner of Ninth and Sansom Streets, site, 
CHINESE MusEum; later, in 18385, Peale’s Museum; 
exhibitions by the Franklin Institute were held here. 

Northeast corner of Ninth and Walnut Streets, 
WALNUT STREET THEATRE, built in 1808; oldest 
theatre in the United States. 

808 Locust Street, MusicAL FUND HALL, built in 
1824; oldest building in Philadelphia in continuous 
use as a hall; Dr. Charles H. Jarvis conducted classi- 
eal soirées here before the Academy was built; has 
fine acoustic properties; it is on the site of the Fifth 
Presbyterian Church, which was moved to Tenth and 
Arch Streets. 

260 South Ninth Street, PoTTER HOUSE, built 1812; 
Joseph Bonaparte lived here two years; the cartoons, 
“Birth of Psyche,” brought by him from Versailles, 
still form the mural decorations of the banquet hall. 

Northeast corner of Spruce and Darien Streets, 
below Ninth, JEWISH CEMETERY, founded 1740; 
Rebecca Gratz, heroine in Scott’s “Ivanhoe,” is 
buried near the entrance. 

225 South Eighth Street, MorRIS MANSION, built 
1787; typical colonial model. 


38 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Eighth and Pine Streets, PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL, 
founded, 1751, by Dr. Thomas Bond and Benjamin 
Franklin; Georgian. Contains Benjamin West’s 
famous painting ‘‘Christ Healing the Sick”; woman 
with white head shawl is said to be likeness of West’s 
mother. 

715 Spruce Street, residence of Nicholas Biddle in 
1820; now used by the American Roman Catholic 
Society. 

705 Locust Street, residence of E. L. Davenport, 
tragedian. 

Southwest corner of Seventh and Locust Streets, 
site where Dr. Horace Howard Furness began his 
great variorum edition of Shakespeare. 

618 Locust Street, residence of John W. Forney, 
journalist. 

Southwest corner of Seventh and Walnut Streets, 
oldest Savings Bank in America; established 1816, by 
Mr. Condy Raguet with twelve directors; classic adap- 
tation; Furness, Evans and Company, architects; 
among the oil portraits to be seen there are Lewis 
Waln and John C. Lowber, by Thomas Sully; G. Coles- 
berry Purves, by William M. Chase, and Condy Raguet, 
artist unknown. 

Southeast corner of Seventh and Chestnut Streets, 
site, residence of George Clymer, signer of the Declara- 
tion of Independence. 

708 Chestnut Street, site, residence of Jared 
Ingersoll, signer of the United States Constitution; 
later, residence George M. Dallas, Vice-President of 
the United States. Opposite, on Chestnut Street 
below Eighth, eastern end of Green’s Hotel, site, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 39 


residence of Thomas Fitzsimmons, signer of the 
United States Constitution. 

632 Chestnut Street, site of Waln mansion. 

615-17-19 Chestnut Street, site, THE ARCADE, built 
in 1826; the Public Ledger issued its first number 
here March 25, 1836. 

605 Chestnut Street, bronze tablet front, inscrip- 
tion: “Site of First CHESTNUT STREET THEATRE, 
17938-1855.” “Hail! Columbia,’’ composed by Joseph 
Hopkinson, first sung here, April 25, 1798, by Gilbert 
Fox. Fanny Elssler danced here in 1840; Jenny Lind 
sung, in 1850; Charlotte Cushman acted, in 1851; 
erected by The City Historical Society of Philadel- 
phia.’’ 

-Northwest corner of Sixth and Ranstead Streets, 
above Chestnut, site, The FALSTAFF HOTEL, from 
1814-16; First City Troop met here. 

130 South Sixth Street, site, residence Thomas G. 
Wharton; birthplace in 1824 of the Historical Society 
of Pennsylvania. 

Southwest corner of Sixth and Walnut Streets, 
Curtis Publishing Company, on site of the Ludwig 
Building, a school erected by Christopher Ludwig, 
“Baker General” of the Revolution; see Architecture. 

Southeast corner of Sixth and Walnut Streets, site, 
WALNUT STREET GAOL, 1775-1888; extended nearly 
to Fifth Street; in the rear, fronting Locust Street, 
then Prune Street, was the debtors’ prison; Judge 
William Moore, also Provost William Smith, were 
confined here, in 1758, for publishing so-called sedi- 
tious pamphlets on patriotism; the students went 
there to recite their lessons to him; Robert Morris, 


40 THE COMMONWEALTH 


financier of the Revolution, was in prison here, in 1797, 
for debts incurred in a large private transaction; first 
successful balloon ascension in America was from the 
gaol yard, by J. P. Blanchard, French aéronaut, Janu- 
ary, L793. 

Sixth to Seventh Streets, on Walnut, WASHINGTON 
SQUARE, patented by William Penn, 1704-05, as 
burial ground for strangers; hundreds of Revolu- 
tionary soldiers were buried here, also victims of the 
great yellow fever epidemic in 1793; in early times 
colored slaves gathered here to sing their native songs, 
and give wild African dances among the graves; 
named Washington Square by Councils, May, 1825, 
and improved for public use; monument to the Wash- 
ington Grays, bronze, life-size figure of a private in 
original uniform. 

215 South Sixth Street, site, residence of Hon. 
James Campbell, United States Postmaster General, 
appointed by President Pierce. 

219 South Sixth Street, The ATHENAEUM OF PHIL- 
ADELPHIA, founded, 18138, by students from the 
University, for a circulating library; first president, 
William Tilghman, Chief Justice of Pennsylvania; 
the Law Library was there many years, while Courts 
were Sixth and Chestnut Streets; was great chess 
center; architect, John Notman. 

245 South Sixth Street, site, residence Commodore 
Barry, who succeeded John Paul Jones as head of the 
American Navy. 

Locust Street below Sixth, south side, site, PRUNE 
STREET THEATRE; ‘‘Home Sweet Home” was sung 
here for the first time in America. 


THE COMMONWEALTH 41 


Northwest corner of Sixth and Spruce Streets, HoLy 
TRINITY ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, built, 1739; cir- 
cular building, alternate red and black bricks; body 
of Stephen Girard was buried here for many years; 
later removed to Girard College. 

144-54 South Fifth Street, site, Free Quaker Ceme- 
tery. 

127 South Fifth Street, site, PHILADELPHIA DISs- 
PENSARY, oldest in United States; founded by Dr. 
Benjamin Rush in 1786; now merged with Pennsyl- 
vania Hospital. 

Northeast corner of Fourth and Walnut Streets, 
residence General Stephen Moylan, military secretary 
to Washington; Muster Master General of the Con- 
tinental Army in 1775. 

South side Walnut Street, above Fourth. John 
Marshall, Chief Justice of the United States, died 
here July 6, 1835. 

Willing’s Alley, south of Walnut Street, east of 
Fourth, St. JOSEPH’S CHURCH; built in 1731; oldest 
Roman Catholic Church in Philadelphia; has paint- 
ing, “Hagar and Ishmael,’ by Benjamin West; 
Washington is said to have been first referred to as 
“The Father of his Country” by the priest, in his 
sermon after Washington’s death; Lancaster County 
makes the same claim. 

309 Walnut Street, site, last residence of Bishop 
White. 

212 South Fourth Street, PHILADELPHIA CONTRI- 
BUTIONSHIP FOR THE INSURANCE OF HOUSES FROM 
Loss BY Fire, oldest fire-insurance company in 
America, founded 1752, by Benjamin Franklin; 


42 THE COMMONWEALTH 


known as “The Hand-in-Hand,” from its seal; Classic 
architecture, built, 1835; portraits, Horace Binney by 
Thomas Sully; painted in 1837, and by George B. A.. 
Healy in 1857; Dr. Charles Willing and Hon. John 
Welsh by Bernard Uhle; James Lewis Smith by 
Henry Inman; William Sellers and Ellis Yarnall by 
Percy Bigland, English; Alexander Biddle, Sydney 
P. Hutchinson and John T. Morris by Vonnoh; James 
S. Smith, 2d, by Van Morcken. 

218-22 South Fourth Street, site, Edward Shippen 
mansion; President, Provisional Council, and First 
Mayor of Philadelphia; his daughter, Peggy Shippen, 
was married to Benedict Arnold. 

Southwest corner of Fourth and Prune Streets, or 
Locust, residence of Dr. Caspar Wistar, in 1799; the 
garden extended to St. Mary’s churchyard; is now 
headquarters of the Philadelphia Chapter No. 2 of 
Colonial Dames. 

244-50 South Fourth Street, St. MARY'S ROMAN 
CATHOLIC CHURCH, built, 1763, has a fine pieta by 
Boucher; in the graveyard are the tombs of Commo- 
dore Barry and of Thomas Fitzsimmons, members 
Continental Congress. 

338 Spruce Street, residence, Joseph Hopkinson, 
born 1770, died 1842; author of “Hail! Columbia,” 
1798; it was called ‘The President’s March,” and 
always sung when Washington held state events; 
music by Henry Roth; he also wrote ‘The Battle of 
the Kegs.” 

Southwest corner of Fourth and Pine Streets, OLD 
PINE STREET PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, brick, rough 
cast; classic; porch with Corinthian columns; built, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 43 


1857; graveyard is on both sides; east portion belongs 
to First Church, west to Old Pine. 

Southwest corner of Leithgow Street, above Fourth 
and South Streets, SOUTH STREET THEATRE, 1766- 
1821; now used as a business building. 

East side of Leithgow Street, west of Fourth, 
between South and Bainbridge Streets, site, APOLLO 
STREET THEATRE, 1811. 

Spruce to Pine Streets, Third to Fourth, site, OLD 
ALMSHOUSE, 1731, and PHILADELPHIA HOSPITAL, 1732. 

Northwest corner of Third and Lombard Streets, 
residence of CHARLES WILLSON PEALE, 1741-1827. 

Southwest corner of Third and Pine Streets, SAINT 
PETER’S CHURCH, built, 1761; in the Churchyard are 
the tombs of Rev. Jacob Duché and Charles Willson 
Peale, artist, 1741-1827; it is often said, “To belong 
to old Philadelphia Society one must have an ancestor 
who entered Paradise through Saint Peter’s grave- 
yard’’; (see Churches). 

Northwest corner of Third and Pine Streets, site, 
residence of Colonel John Nixon, who read the 
Declaration of Independence. 

Northeast corner of Third and Pine Streets, site, 
residence of Rev. Jacob Duché; later, British Mili- 
tary Hospital. 

224 Pine Street, site, Pecdenes Mayor John 
Stamper, 1760; Governor John Penn died here. “His 
funeral was very great, making quite a crowd.” 

237 DeLancey Street, above Pine, site, residence of 
Horace Binney, the great lawyer. 

About 260 South Third Street, site, Bingham resi- 
dence; later, in 1828, Joseph Head’s MANSION HOUSE, 


44 THE COMMONWEALTH 


known as the most sumptuous inn in America; John 
Quincy Adams stayed here in 1811; Pennsylvania 
Society of the Cincinnati gave a dinner in 1811, cele- 
brating the unveiling of a monument to General 
Wayne; “Sons of Washington” held their annual 
dinner here on Washington’s Birthday; French citi- 
zens gave a dinner in 18380, Peter Du Ponceau 
presiding, in popular demonstration after the French 
Revolution of the overthrow of Charles X. 

256 South Third Street, site, “Washington Hall,” 
built, 1814; erected by the Washington Benevolent 
Society; here General Andrew Jackson was féted and 
dined, in February, 1819; Lafayette attended a 
dinner in 1824 given to Richard Rush, envoy to Eng- 
land from the United States, afterward member of 
Adams Cabinet; second Horticultural Exhibition was 
held in 1830. 

244 South Third Street, residence of Samuel Powell, 
Mayor of Philadelphia, 1775-89; fine colonial archi- 
tecture; many functions were held here during the 
Revolution; Washington celebrated his twentieth 
wedding anniversary here, January 6, 1779. 

228 South Third Street, site, Thomas Willing resi- 
dence, in 1746. 

217-31 South Third Street, St. PAUL’S PROTESTANT 
EPISCOPAL CHURCH, built, 1761; Headquarters of 
Philadelphia City Mission; Edwin Forrest, tragedian, 
is buried in the graveyard; (see Churches). 

Southeast corner of Dock and Moravian Streets, 
below Walnut, publisher’s office of Burton’s Gentle- 
man’s Magazine, while Edgar Allan Poe was editor. 

Southeast corner of Third and Walnut Streets, site, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 45 


residence of Alexander Hamilton, and site of Fort 
Wilson, residence of James Wilson, a signer of the 
Declaration of Independence. 

301 Walnut Street, site, residence of Dr. Benjamin 
Rush, in 1791, a signer of the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence. 

307 Walnut Street, site, residence of Judge Richard 
Peters. 

Back part of Walnut Court, between 314-318 
Walnut Street, site, Friends’ Almshouse, 1713-1841. 

Southeast corner of Third and Pear Streets (now 
Chancellor), Robert Bell’s bookstore; Bell’s imprints 
are sought by collectors. 

116-120 South Third Street, GIRARD NATIONAL 
BANK, oldest banking building in America; Stephen 
Girard, financier of the War of 1812, bought it in 
1812; it was his office until his death, December 26, 
1831. 

114 South Third Street, site, Jay COOKE’S BANKING 
Houses, financier of the Civil War. 

Sansom Street, formerly Lodge Street, aboveSecond; 
first successful locomotive, Old Ironsides, built in 
America was made by Matthias Baldwin in 1828. 

Northwest corner of Second and Sansom Streets, 
site, residence of William Logan, 1750-60. 

Southeast corner of Second and Sansom Streets, 
site, SLATE Roor Houses, 1698-1867, built for William 
Penn; his son John was born here, January 29, 1700; 
sold to William Trent, founder of Trenton, in 1808, 
for eight hundred and fifty pounds; General Forbes, 
Governor of Pennsylvania, died here. ‘‘His funeral 
was of great splendor.” 


46 THE COMMONWEALTH 


121 South Second Street, site, residence of Robert 
Fulton, artist and engineer. 

123 South Second Street, site, residence of Captain 
Joseph Anthony; Assembly met here in 1828-80. 

Back of 145-47 South Second Street, site of Indian 
reservation. 

Second Street, southeast corner of Little Dock 
Street, site, Loxley House in 1720; Lydia Darrach is 
supposed to have lived here; Benjamin Franklin used 
the front door key in electricity experiment with a kite. 

Water Street, between Walnut and Dock Streets, 
Hamilton’s Wharf. First ASSEMBLY BALLS were 
held here, in a large room, about 1740. 

Second and Pine Streets, SECOND STREET MARKET, 
built, 1745. 

200 Pine Street, site, residence of Charles Elias 
Boudinot. 

South Street from South Street, corner of American, 
between Second and Third Streets, inscription on 
corner house: “In this street was birthplace of Edwin 
Forrest; Commodore Joseph Cresson; Alexander 
Wilson; and Joel B. Sutherland, first President of the 
Society of 1812.” 

Second Street below South, west side, SOUTHWARK 
BANK, built, 1825. 

30 South Street, site, Plumsted House; MASON AND 
DIXON’S OBSERVATORY was near here. 

Front and Pine Streets; probable site of the Penny 
Pot House. 

Northwest corner of Front and Dock Streets, prob- 
able site of the BLUE ANCHOR INN, in 1682, where 
William Penn first landed in Philadelphia. 


THE COMMONWEALTH AT 


NOTABLE ARCHITECTURE 


ARCHITECTURE should comprise beauty, fitness, and 
stability. It is classified by various styles from the 
past, necessarily developed by modern characterists. 
Eras of great national vigor invariably express them- 
selves architecturally, by means of great scale. To 
illustrate, the Pyramids at Gizeh and the great temple 
at Karnak mark the zenith of Egyptian civilization; 
the Parthenon echoes the halycon days of Greece; 
Imperial Rome boasted the Baths of Caracalla and the 
Colosseum; the glorious Renaissance in Italy culmi- 
nated in the grandeur of St. Peter’s Church; and the 
consecration and craftsmanship of Gothic builders 
crashed to earth with the lofty vaulting of Beauvais. 
Also consider, in chronological order, the buildings of 
our own time, they present a mute record of the ever- 
increasing virility of the nation; in the lacelike tower 
of the Woolworth Building, piercing the blue heaven 
for a thousand feet, we read the tremendous advance 
and limitless possibilities of the country whose dreams 
become realities. Among the early COLONIAL or 
GEORGIAN buildings are, CARPENTERS’ HALL, Chestnut 
Street below Fourth; CHRIST CHURCH, Second Street 
above Market; HAMILTON MANSION in Woodlands 
Cemetery, Thirty-ninth Street and Woodland Avenue; 
INDEPENDENCE HALL, group, Chestnut Street between 
Fifth and Sixth; OLD SWEDES’ CHURCH (Gloria 
Dei), Swanson Street near Front and Christian 
Streets; PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL, Eighth and Pine 
Streets; St. PrTER’S CHURCH, Third and Pine 
Streets. 


48 THE COMMONWEALTH : 


Egyptian. SYNAGOGUE ADATH-JESHURUM, Broad and 
Diamond Streets; Indiana limestone; architects, 
Thomas, Churchman, and Molitor. 

Classic. ACADEMY OF Music, Broad and Locust 
Streets. Interior classic; brick; built, 1850; archi- 
tects, LeBrun & Runge; the audience room is very 
large, modeled after celebrated opera houses in Europe; 
plan of the balconies is now considered obsolete, but 
the general effect is undeniably fine, and has a flavor 
of the Second Empire. CATHEDRAL OF SS. PETER 
AND PAUL, Logan Square; brownstone, built about 
1860; architects, Napoleon Le Brun for the building, 
John Notman for the facade; it is impressive and dig- 
nified. UNITED STATES Custom HOousE, Chestnut 
Street below Fifth; architect, John Haviland. GIRARD 
COLLEGE, Corinthian and Girard Avenues; architect, 
Thomas U. Walters; modeled after the Parthenon. 
GIRARD NATIONAL BANK, 116 South Third Street; 
portico of the Third Street front is Corinthian, studied 
from the Parthenon and Temple of Saturnus; it stands 
on a stylobate, elevated above the pavement by steps 
on three sides, which gives it emphasis and dignity,and 
marks it as the feature of approach to the building; 
this portico is flanked on either side by a pavilion of 
pilasters, of the same character as the columns of the 
portico, the space between the pilasters being pierced 
with windows which are adorned with architraves and 
cornices supported by carved brackets; the pilasters 
and columns are surmounted by a cornice pediment 
and balustrade of great elegance of detail and propor- 
tion, studied from the best class of Roman antique 
work; the tympanum of the pediment is enriched by 


THE COMMONWEALTH 49 


the date of the erection, 1795, and the American eagle 
in bas-relief carving, of excellent modeling; from the 
pavement to the apex of the portico is fifty-six feet; 
entire front is of Pennsylvania blue marble; the build- 
ing was erected for the Bank of the United States in 
1797, and followed closely the lines of the Dublin 
Exchange; architect, Samuel Blodgett; marble work 
was done by Claudius LeGrand in his yard at Tenth 
and Market Streets; this was the first building in 
Philadelphia to be erected with portico and pillars; in 
1901, it was carefully renovated by James H. Windrim. 
GIRARD TRUST COMPANY, northwest corner of Broad 
and Chestnut Streets, built in 1908; architects, McKim, 
Mead & White, New York; Furness & Evans, Phila- 
delphia; has steel frame and Gustavino dome faced 
with white marble; while the form of this building was 
probably suggested by the Pantheon at Rome, details 
of the order are rather Greek, and the colonetts, form- 
ing the mullions of the windows, suggest the Certosa 
di Pavia. RIDGWAY LIBRARY, South Broad and Chris- 
tian Streets, Doric; built, 1880; granite; architect, 
Addison Hutton. OLD STocK EXCHANGE, Second, Wal- 
nut and Dock Streets, white marble; has semicircular 
Corinthian colonnade, and lantern modeled after the 
Temple of Lysicrates; architect, William Strickland. 
St. PATRICK’S CHURCH, Twenty-first and Locust 
Streets, Roman; classic; brick and granite; built, 
1918; architects, LaFarge & Morris, New York; 
facade of this church is big in conception, full of dignity 
and repose, and forms a most successful termination 
to the vista when viewed from Rittenhouse Street. 
UNITED STATES MINT, Seventeenth and Spring Gar- 


50 THE COMMONWEALTH 


den Streets, built, 1898; light gray granite; architect, 
James Knox Taylor. 

Moorish. HORTICULTURAL HALL, Fairmount Park; 
built, 1876; architect, Herman J. Schwarzmann. 
RODEPH SHALOM SYNAGOGUE, Mt. Vernon and North 
Broad Streets. 

Byzantine. FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH, Seventeenth 
Street above Chestnut, stone; Edgar V. Seeler, archi- 
tect. JACOB REED’S SONS, store, 1424 Chestnut Street, 
brick, marble, and tile; built, 1904; Price & McLana- 
han, architects; facade is one of the most interesting 
in the city; the column caps are symbolic of the busi- 
ness conducted therein, as is also the tile work on the 
intrados of the arch, which depicts the shearing and 
manufacturing of wool and has the richness of an Ori- 
ental rug. 

Gothic. ACADEMY OF THE FINE Arts, Broad and 
Cherry Streets, Venetian polychrome Gothic, brick, 
limestone, and tile; architects, Furness & Hewitt; 
facade is interesting, as the most prominent example 
of the Venetian Gothic style, used in Philadelphia in 
the latter part of the nineteenth century. BROAD AND 
ARCH STREETS METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, white 
marble. ST. CLEMENT’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL 
CHURCH, Twentieth and Cherry Streets, Norman; 
built, 1857; brownstone; architect, John Notman; 
later improvements; new roof; apse; Lady chapel and 
parish buildings by Horace Wells Sellers. St. JAMES’ 
PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, Twenty-second and 
Walnut Streets, English decorated Gothic, with sculp- 
tured band around the tower; Ohio green sandstone 
and granite; architect, G. W. Hewitt. St. LUKE’s 


THE COMMONWEALTH 51 


PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, Germantown Avenue 
and Coulter Street, granite and limestone; architect, 
Richard Upjohn of New York, who first used the prin- 
ciples of Gothic architecture in America; rectory, St. 
Margaret’s Home, parish house, and the rood screen in 
the church are by Cope & Stewardson; organ screen 
is by Pierson. ST. MARK’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL 
CHURCH, Locust Street below Seventeenth, early deco- 
rated Gothic; brownstone; architect, John Notman; 
later improvements include the Lady chapel, archi- 
tects, Cope & Stewardson. SECOND PRESBYTERIAN 
CHURCH, Twenty-first and Walnut Streets, French, 
with early English details; resembles the Parish Church 
in Norfolk, England; architect, Henry Sims. ST. 
STEPHEN’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, Tenth 
Street above Chestnut, early Gothic, with two octag- 
onal towers; stone; interior decorated by Frank Fur- 
ness; rich and unusual color. SouUTH MEMORIAL 
CHURCH OF THE ADVOCATE, Eighteenth and Diamond 
Streets, French; architect, C. M. Burns; built, 1897; 
interior profusely adorned with carving; windows by 
Clayton & Bell. | 
Romanesque. CHURCH OF ST. FRANCIS DE SALES, 
ROMAN CATHOLIC, Forty-seventh Street and Spring- 
field Avenue, brick and terra cotta; Gustavino dome 
and mosaic, a very beautiful example of the style; 
built, 1912; architect, Henry D. Daggit. Holy TRIN- 
ITY PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, Nineteenth and 
Walnut Streets, Norman, brownstone; architect, John 
Notman. MASONIC TEMPLE, Broad and Filbert 
Streets, Norman with elaborately carved porch; gray 
granite; built about 1870; architect, James H. Wind- 


i) 


52 THE COMMONWEALTH 


rim. CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR, PROTESTANT EPISCO- 
PAL, Thirty-eighth Street, north of Chestnut Street, 
Norman; architect, Charles M. Burns; the half dome 
and apse are decorated by Edwin H. Blashfield; said 
to be one of the finest examples of mosaic work in this 
country; alms boxes and reredos, designed by 
the late James Warner, are also of considerable 
interest. 

Renaissance. ART CLUB, southwest corner of Broad 
and Chancellor Streets, Italian and French influences; 
brick and Indiana limestone; architect, Frank Miles 
Day. City HALL, open daily, 9.00 A. M. to 3.00 P. M., 
Broad and Market Streets, on site of Penn Square, — 
formerly Centre Square, on which was a Friends’ meet- 
ing-house in 1685; Rochambeau’s Encampment, 1781; 
Wayne’s Encampment, 1794; and the first city water- 
works in 1801; this is the largest single building in 
America; covers four and a half acres, French, begun 
in 1871, white marble with granite base; built in the 
form of a hollow square, with passageways connecting 
both Market and Broad Streets; contains 662 rooms; 
the tower, on the north center, about 550 feet high, is 
surmounted by a colossal bronze statue of William 
Penn; center and corner pavilions have attic stories, 
and hanging stairs of polished granite; architect, John 
McArthur, Jr.; chief points of interest are the council 
chambers; mayor’s reception room, with portraits of 
Philadelphia mayors; and state court rooms; from 
the roof is an excellent view of the city. To Alexander 
Milne Calder, Philadelphia is indebted for the applied 
sculpture, the artistic feature of the building, many 
scores of figures, symbolic of the history of this nation 





BIDDLE 


CAPTAIN NICHOLAS 


ity Hall 


In the Tower Gallery of C 


Ine Calder, Sculptor 


a 


Alexander M 





THE COMMONWEALTH 53 


and the world, fine types of Indians, and other races; 
the negro heads being known among artists as the 
best of their kind; ornamentation symbolic of music, 
art, science, and commerce, is used as an integral part 
of this great public edifice, an inherent factor in true 
decoration, where it comes into its own, as well as in 
gardens, parks, boulevards, and plazas. Statues out- 
side, on City Hall pavement, are, General John F. 
Reynolds, by Rogers; General McClellan; the Pil- 
erim by Saint Gaudens; the Quaker by Giuseppe 
Donato; Stephen Girard and John Wanamaker by 
J. Massey Rhind; Joseph Leidy, M.D.; President 
McKinley, and John C. Bullitt. COLLEGE or Puy- 
SICIANS, ‘Twenty-second Street, above Chestnut, 
English; built, 1910; architects, Cope & Stewardson. 
DROPSIE COLLEGE, Broad Street below York, French; 
architects, Pitcher & Tachau. HAMILTON COURT, 
Thirty-ninth and Chestnut Streets, Italian; steel 
frame faced with brick and limestone; an apartment 
house built around an open court, recalling very 
strongly, both in color and detail, the earlier Venetian 
palaces. JMEMORIAL HALL, Fairmount Park, German, 
granite; built, 1876; architect, Herman J. Schwarz- 
mann; one of the best designed monumental buildings 
in the city. UNION LEAGUE addition, Fifteenth and 
Sansom Streets, Italian; steel frame, faced with 
limestone; built, 1912; architect, Horace Trumbauer: 
a very dignified and restrained elevation, suggestive 
of a Roman palace. 

Spanish. THE FIRST CHURCH OF CHRIST SCIEN- 
TIST, Walnut Street above Fortieth; architects, Car- 
rere & Hastings. PENNSYLVANIA INSTITUTE FOR THE 


54 THE COMMONWEALTH 


INSTRUCTION OF THE BLIND, Overbrook; Spanish mis- 
sion; architects, Cope & Stewardson. 

English. MMELLOR, MEIGS AND HOWE OFFICE, 205 
South Juniper Street, rough brick; architects, Mellor 
& Meigs. 

THE ATHENAEUM of Philadelphia, 219 South Sixth 
Street; architect, John Notman; has best points of 
work done in 1850, showing traditions of the past, with 
developments and characteristics of its own; interior 
has a most beautiful reading room. 'THE UNIVERSITY 
BUILDINGS, from Thirty-fourth to Fortieth Streets, 
Walnut Street to Woodland Avenue, add much to the 
architectural attraction of West Philadelphia; en- 
trances to the campus, near the dormitories, are fine 
Tudor gateways, wrought iron, with brick and stone 
piers. (See University of Pennsylvania.) Hon. 
James Arthur Balfour said in 1917, ‘‘The Americans 
build Brobdignagian cathedrals, and use them for 
office buildings.”” THE SKYSCRAPERS. ADELPHIA 
HOTEL, Thirteenth and Chestnut Streets, Italian Re- 
naissance, brick and terra cotta; built, 1914; architect, 
Horace Trumbauer; the arabesque detail on lower 
stories of the facade, and pattern formed by projecting 
bricks, on the stories above, are worthy of notice; inte- 
riors are pleasing and architecturally correct. BELL 
TELEPHONE, a Parkway building, corner of Seventeenth 
and Arch Streets; height above ground 273 feet; 
stone; with interesting facade; architect, John T. 
Windrim. BELLEVUE-STRATFORD HOTEL, southwest 
corner Broad and Walnut Streets, French Renaissance; 
steel frame, faced with terra cotta; architects, Hewitt 
Bros. Most beautifully proportioned and artistic 


THE COMMONWEALTH AS 


business building in Philadelphia. Boursr, Fourth to 
Fifth Streets, below Market; adaptation of the Fran- 
cois Premier; with fine feeling of dignity, in placing 
within the broad paving; architects, Hewitt Bros. 
BULLETIN BUILDING, Juniper and Filbert Streets, 
French; steel frame, faced with terra cotta; architect, 
Edgar V. Seeler. CURTIS PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
Sixth and Walnut Streets, modern adaptation of 
Georgian; steel frame, faced with white marble and 
brick; built, 1910; architect, Edgar V. Seeler; faces 
Independence Square, and although thoroughly mod- 
ern, harmonizes perfectly, both in color and design, 
with the historic Georgian group, of which Independ- 
ence Hall is the center, and adds to the quiet colonial 
atmosphere of the Square; interior is excellently 
designed; entrance, lobby, editorial offices, and the 
employes’ dining room being of particular interest. 
Mechanical equipment is the finest of its kind in the 
world, producing an average of 5,558,600 complete 
paid for publications per issue of the Ladves’ Home 
Journal, Saturday Evening Post, and The Country 
Gentleman for six months ending June 30, 1924. 
Twenty original paintings, and the mosaic ‘The 
Dream Garden,” by Maxfield Parrish, a mural made 
of Tiffany favrile glass, the work proceeded through 
an entire year, in the Tiffany Studios, where each 
piece of glass was fired under the personal super- 
vision of Mr. Tiffany and Mr. Briggs; time can 
never impair its freshness, color, or luminosity. Visi- 
tors will be shown the entire plant daily, except 
Saturdays and Sundays, between 9.00 A. M. and 5.00 
P.M. FARM JOURNAL, Seventh Street and Washington 


56 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Square, Georgian; colonial brick and Indiana lime- 
stone; architects, Bunting & Shrigley. HARRISON 
BUILDING, Fifteenth and Market Streets, Francois 
Premier; built, 1895; architects, Cope & Stewardson; 
an unusual example of well-studied, though elaborate 
Renaissance detail; notice the graceful roof, recalling 
the charming chateaux along the Loire. LAND TITLE 
BUILDING, southwest corner of Broad and Chestnut 
Streets, modern adaptation of classic; steel frame, 
faced with gray granite and brick; architects, D. H. 
Burnham & Co., Chicago; contrast the scale of 
the order, in the newer portion of the  build- 
ing on Broad Street entrance, with the _ insig- 
nificant order in the old building. MANUFAC- 
TURERS’ CLUB, Broad and Walnut Streets, Italian 
Renaissance; built, 1914; steel frame, faced with 
limestone; architects, Simon & Bassett; has a hand- 
some facade, crowned by a daring Florentine cornice; 
interior unusually interesting in detail. RACQUET 
CLUB, Sixteenth Street below Walnut, Georgian; colo- 
nial brick, marble trimmings; architect, Horace Trum- 
bauer. REAL ESTATE TRUST BUILDING, southeast 
corner of Broad and Chestnut Streets, Renaissance; 
architect, Edgar V. Seeler. RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL, 
Broad and Walnut Streets, modern adaptation, style 
of the Adam Brothers; built, 1912; steel frame, faced 
with colonial brick and Indiana limestone; architects, 
Warren & Wetmore, New York, Horace Trumbauer, 
Philadelphia, associate. The keynote of this structure 
is refinement and good taste; a recognition of the fact 
that commercialism and good architecture are by no 
means incompatible. STEPHEN GIRARD BUILDING, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 57 


Twelfth and Girard Streets, modern adaptation of 
Greek classic; built about 1894; steel frame, faced 
with brick and marble; architect, John T. Windrim; 
details of this building are interesting; note the bronze 
caryatid figures which support the heads of the second 
story windows; the wrought iron gates to the court on 
Girard Street rank with the best modern wrought iron- 
work in the city. WANAMAKER STORE, Chestnut, Mar- 
ket, Juniper, and Thirteenth Streets, modern adapta- 
tion of Italian Renaissance, built, 1910; steel frame, 
with light gray granite; architects, D. H. Burnham & 
Co., Chicago; exterior of this store is one of the finest 
in the city, it is simple, dignified, and impressive, with- 
out being monotonous; the great scale of the Doric 
order at the base, the severe wall treatment, and the 
splendid cornice, combine to express a purity and lofti- 
ness seldom equaled in commercial buildings; a guide 
may be had, upon application, who will conduct visi- 
tors through the entire building including the kitchens. 
WEST PHILADELPHIA HIGH SCHOOL, Forty-sixth and 
Walnut Streets, Tudor Gothic; rough brick and 
Indiana limestone; built, 1913, by the City Architect. 
WIDENER MEMORIAL Home for crippled children, 
Broad Street and Olney Avenue, Georgian, built, 1906; 
Harvard brick and marble trimmings; architect, 
Horace Trumbauer; has a very beautifully designed 
wrought iron gateway. 

To make a “City Beautiful”’ is to give it wide streets, 
lined with handsome buildings and houses, plenty of 
parks, boulevards, and to rid it of rows upon rows of 
semi-shanty premises, small, ill-kept, and unattractive. 
Each new building that is put up within the city limits 


58 THE COMMONWEALTH 


should, in its arrangements and architecture, help 
toward making the locality in which it is erected more 
attractive than at the present time. This idea has 
been carried out in the CARNEGIE FREE LIBRARY build- 
ings, scattered about within the limits of the muni- 
cipality, as their varied exteriors are very distin- 
guished, from an architectural point. The interiors 
are designed to avoid the multiplication of corridors; 
principal rooms used for reading, the art and reference 
rooms, are stately and fine. 

An interesting GATEWAY is the entrance to the MANn- 
HEIM CRICKET CLUB, Germantown, Georgian; con- 
sisting of massive brick piers, surmounted by stone 
caps, connected at the top with a wrought iron sup- 
porting lantern, below which are the heavy wrought 
iron central gates; this, with smaller gateways, and a 
most attractive brick wall, forms the enclosure for the 
grounds; architects, McKim, Mead & White. 


ART COLLECTIONS AND ART SCHOOLS 


Philadelphia being the seat of government of colonial 
times, is extremely rich in historic portraits. They are 
in The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts; Inde- | 
pendence Hall; Historical Society of Pennsylvania; 
Carpenters’ Hall; American Philosophical Society; 
Pennsylvania Hospital; Academy of Natural Science; 
The Library Company of Philadelphia; Mercantile 
Library; College of Physicians; United States Mint; 
University of Pennsylvania; many banks and insur- 
ance companies. 

PENNSYLVANIA ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS, Broad 
Street above Arch; open free daily, 9.00 A. M. to 5.00 





A QUIET HOUR 


Painted by John W. Alexander 
Courtesy of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts 


THE COMMONWEALTH 59 


P. M., Sundays, 1.00 P. M. to 5.00 P. M.; fee for special 
exhibitions; was the first art institute in America, 
founded, 1805; its history is in no small measure the 
history of American art itself, and dates back to 1791, 
when Charles Willson Peale attempted to organize in 
Philadelphia a school of art; from this grew, in 1794, 
the Columbianum, which held the first exhibition of 
paintings, in 1795, in Independence Hall. The perma- 
nent collection of paintings and sculpture now includes 
the Gallery of National Portraiture, with the largest 
number of portraits by Gilbert Stuart to be seen in any 
museum; and notable works by other early American 
painters—Benjamin West, Washington Allston, Mat- 
thew Pratt, the Peales, Sully, Neagle, Inman, Eich- 
holz, Trumbull, and Bass Otis; the Gibson Col- 
lection, largely composed of the Continental schools; 
Temple collection of modern American paintings; 
important works by many of the world’s greatest 
artists; and the Phillips collection of about forty 
thousand etchings and engravings. Annual exhibi- 
tions are, miniatures, water colors, illustration, and 
etchings in November and December; oil painting 
and sculpture in February and March, considered the 
salon of living American artists; also special exhibi- 
tions and lectures on art. The Academy cooperates 
with the system of International Catalogue Exchange. 

Since the beginning of the Academy’s existence, men 
and women whose names have become illustrious in 
the annals of American art have been enrolled as stu- 
dents. Theschools are equipped in every way to teach 
the technique of painting and sculpture, the faculty is 
composed of representative artists of the day; collec- 


60 THE COMMONWEALTH 


tions, galleries, classrooms, models, and casts are 
admirably fitted to afford instruction fully equal to 
that obtainable in Europe. Many substantial prizes 
are awarded annually to students upon the merits of 
their work. The William Emlen Cresson Travelling 
Scholarships send, on an average, sixteen students 
abroad yearly for four months, and enable them to 
return to the Academy and continue their studies 
without payment of tuition fee. The Fellowship of 
the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, organ- 
ized 1897,sends out annually two exhibitions of original 
oil paintings by notable artists; one to other cities, 
the other to the Philadelphia public schools, where 
they remain one month in each school; while there, the 
paintings are explained by a member of the Fellowship 
to school children, thus teaching them true apprecia- 
tion of art. A Picture Purchase Fund was established 
in 1912, with which pictures have been bought, from 
Fellowship Exhibitions, and placed in Philadelphia 
libraries and public schools. 

JOHN GRAVER JOHNSON MUSEUM OF PAINTINGS, 510 
South Broad Street, left by bequest April, 1917, to the 
City of Philadelphia, is open to the public; through- 
out Europe and America this vast collection of old and 
modern masters is famous for extent and merit. “No 
other American collection has so wide a range and so 
even a quality,” says F. Mason Perkins; it contains 
scores of examples which could not be duplicated at 
any price. Noted for the completeness of different 
schools of painting. 

PHILADELPHIA SCHOOL OF DESIGN FOR WOMEN, 
southwest corner of Broad and Master Streets; first 


THE COMMONWEALTH » 61 


industrial art school in this country; similar to the 
“Ecoles Professionelles des Femmes,” in Paris; was 
founded in 1844 by Mrs. Sarah Peters, the American 
wife of the British Consul in Philadelphia, in her own 
house; later, the Franklin Institute assumed charge 
of the classes until 1858, when it was incorporated, and 
a Board of Directors elected. Its aim is to put art 
students in touch with business demands, as well as 
to cultivate, to the highest degree, their artistic ability. 
The Normal Art Course embodies all the special studies 
required by modern educators for teachers of art and 
design, and with courses in the fine arts, illustration, 
and costume illustration; has trained many women, 
now earning handsome emoluments and winning dis- 
tinction. The residence on Broad Street, forming 
entrance to the school, which occupies large buildings 
in the rear, was the home of Edwin Forrest, a famous 
tragedian; the fine gallery which he erected to house 
his collection of paintings, now at the Forrest Home 
for Actors at Holmesburg, is used for annual exhibi- 
tions of the school’s painting classes. Edwin Forrest 
died here in 1872 and John Sartain in 1897; John Sar- 
tain was celebrated as a mezzotint engraver, and lived 
here with his daughter, Miss Emily Sartain, then 
principal of the school, herself a skilled painter, and 
engraver in mezzotint; who with her well chosen 
faculty of eminent artists, carried to a prosperous 
fulfilment Mrs. Peters’ initiative effort. 

PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUS- 
TRIAL ART was founded in 1876, as a concrete embodi- 
ment of the lessons taught by the Centennial Exhibi- 
tion, and has developed forms of artistic craftsmanship 


62 THE COMMONWEALTH 


that were practically unknown in America. The 
Museum is housed in Memorial Hall, Fairmount Park, 
memorial of the Centennial; Modern Renaissance; 
architect, Herman J. Schwarzmann. Open free, Mon- 
days, 12.00 M., other days 9.30 A. M., closing 5.00 P. M., 
Sundays, 1.00 P.M. to 6.00 P.M. Established as a 
museum of art in all its branches and technical appli- 
cation, with a special view to the development of the 
art industries of the state. Among its important col- 
lections are the W. P. Wilstach paintings, about five 
hundred old masters, with their schools; and con- 
temporary international paintings, belonging to the 
City of Philadelphia; with $700,000 endowment, 
interest to be used for their care and increase, by the 
Commissioners of Fairmount Park; among the many 
brilliant artists represented are, Whistler, Munkdcsy, 
Sorolla, Zuloago, Velasquez, the Barbizon, Italian, and 
Dutch Schools of Landscape. The famous Bayeux 
tapestry is here; laces; vestments; porcelains; enam- 
els; carved ivories; period furniture; some of the 
Edwin Atlee Barber collection of American pottery 
and porcelains; Lewis collection of Swiss stained glass, 
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; Frishmuth col- 
lection of colonial antiquities. A Bureau of Identifi- 
cation is maintained where art objects may be classified. 

The school is at the northwest corner of Broad and 
Pine Streets; porch of this building, facing Broad 
Street, is a fine example of Tuscan architecture, erected, 
1828. The school has forty instructors. Free scholar- 
ships are given in each county of this state. This is 
the leading school in America in associating the study 
of art with practical training; through its equipment 


THE COMMONWEALTH 63 


students not only design, but actually manufacture; 
it includes a complete textile plant with looms, dye 
house, and all related appliances which make possi- 
ble the production of most artistic fabrics; other 
courses are cast and wrought metal; furniture; leather 
work; pottery; garden furniture in cement; mosaic; 
also the Normal Art Courses, illustration; architec- 
tural drawing; modeling; interior decoration; book 
binding. Classes are attended by men and women, 
who pursue exactly the same studies. Graduates are 
sought to fill lucrative positions as designers; artistic 
craftsmen; and art teachers. 

DREXEL INSTITUTE, Thirty-second and Chestnut 
Streets. A day and evening technical school of Art, 
Science, and Industry for men and women; founded 
by Anthony J. Drexel, 1891; Renaissance, brick; archi- 
tects, Wilson Brothers. The leading American and 
European current periodicals relating to art, science, 
and technology are in the library. Art Gallery con- 
tains collections owned by John D. Lankenau, works 
by modern German masters, and Anthony J. Drexel, 
works of International, contemporary, modern painters. 
The Museum, open free 10.00 A. M. to 5.00 P. M. daily, 
except Sundays, includes examples of Industrial Art 
and the Decorative Arts of India, Egypt, China, Japan, 
and Europe. 

GRAPHIC SKETCH CLUB, 719 Catharine Street, 
founded by Samuel S. Fleisher in 1899, to provide, free, 
an art center which should give the culture craved by 
many intelligent young people, to whom it had been 
denied by circumstances. The Club House is open 
only at night, Saturday afternoons, and all day Sun- 


64 THE COMMONWEALTH 


days. This is an Art Club in effect, as well as name; 
rooms are artistically furnished in beautiful color har- 
monies, and embellished with choice bronzes bought 
at our Academy exhibitions, and fine porcelains. 
Students are educated in art, for the practical good it 
will do them, and cultural growth; all are day workers. 
The faculty is composed of well known artists; classes 
include portrait and still life painting; illustration and 
sculpture. From this school have gone some of the 
most original workers in the schools of the Academy 
of the Fine Arts. Landscape classes are in session 
during the summer. Lectures are given on art or 
musical topics. Membership in the Club is attained 
by attendance in the classes for three years. 

PuBLIC ART SCHOOL, Park Avenue and Master 
Street, founded by Charles G. Leland, now under the 
direction of the Board of Public Education; open to 
pupils in grammar grades of public schools. A course 
of study was planned, including drawing, clay model- 
ing, and wood carving, to train students to originate 
design, and do the manual work as well, so that the 
designer should be the artisan also. 

ART CLUB, 220 South Broad Street. Annual exhibi- 
tion of paintings and sculpture, gold medal awarded; 
and special shows by individual artists. 

ART JuRY, City Hall, Philadelphia, created by Act 
of Legislature, 1907, providing, ‘‘ That in every city of 
first class, there shall be an Art Jury, composed of the 
Mayor and eight others, of whom shall be, one each, 
painter, sculptor, architect, and Park Commissioner, 
to pass upon design and location of all buildings; 
bridges; arches; fountains; or fixtures to be erected 
in the city.” . 


THE COMMONWEALTH 65 


City PARKS ASSOCIATION, City Hall. 

DARBY SCHOOL OF PAINTING, Fort Washington, 
Montgomery County. Outdoor classes. Hugh H. 
Breckenridge, 10 South 18th Street, Philadelphia. 

FAIRMOUNT PARK ART ASSOCIATION, organized, 
1871. 3820S. Broad Street. 

PENNSYLVANIA SOCIETY OF MINIATURE PAINTERS, 
organized, 1901. Annual fall exhibition, Pennsylvania 
Academy of the Fine Arts. 

PHILADELPHIA CHAPTER, AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF 
ARCHITECTS, 1301 Stephen Girard Building; organ- 
ized, 1869. 

THE PHILADELPHIA SKETCH CLUB (men), 235 South 
Camac Street, organized, 1860. Annual fall exhibi- 
tions of members’ work; also special exhibitions. 

PHILADELPHIA WATER-COLOR CLUB. Pennsylvania 
Academy of the Fine Arts, annual international exhi- 
bitions; also Traveling exhibitions of members’ work. 

PLASTIC CLUB, women, 247 South Camac Street; 
organized, 1897. Annual and special exhibitions; lec- 
tures, and sketch classes. 

T-SQUARE CLUB, 204 South Quince Street, founded, 
1881. Annual architectural exhibition; drafting; 
decorative painting; modeling; and architecture in 
cooperation with Society of Beaux-Arts Architects, 
New York City. 

The D’AScENzZO StupbIos, for Stained Glass, 1604 
Summer Street, founded twenty years ago, include 
designing; painting; firing; and glazing; work is 
begun and completed, in both modern and antique, 
with preference for the antique school, for architectural 
fitness and conventionality; also glass mosaic and 


66 THE COMMONWEALTH 


mural decoration. D’Ascenzo’s art may be seen in 
many important churches and buildings in this country; 
in the-Chapel at Valley Forge, and in Philadelphia may 
be mentioned St. Mark’s Protestant Episcopal Church, 
Frankford; St. James’ Protestant Episcopal Church, 
Twenty-second and Walnut Streets; St. Patrick’s 
Roman Catholic Church, Twentieth and Locust 
Streets; Synagogue Rodeph Shalom, Philadelphia. 

WILLIAM WILLET AND ANNIE LEE WILLET STUDIOS, 
FOR STAINED GLASS, 226 South Eleventh Street, 
formerly of Pittsburgh. While all the world is 
deploring the loss of the magnificent old glass in the 
cathedrals of Europe, here the art of fused glass has 
been raised to such perfection that their great windows 
have all that the old work has, of depth, glow, and 
shadow, under modern conditions of stability; among 
their notable windows are, the Sanctuary Window, 
West Point Military Chapel, New York; Proctor 
Hall, the Graduate School, Princeton, New Jersey, 
great west window; many in the churches and public 
buildings of Pittsburgh, Chicago and elsewhere; in 
and near Philadelphia, in Summit Presbyterian 
Church, Carpenter and West View Streets, German- 
town; St. Michael’s Sanctuary window, High Street, 
Germantown; John Chambers Memorial Church; 
The Buchanan Memorial, St. Nathaniel’s Church, 
Kensington; the Harrison Memorial; Holy Trinity 
Church, Nineteenth and Walnut; the Leta Sullivan 
in the Assumption, Strafford. 

Notable private art collections in Philadelphia, that 
may sometimes be seen by writing for permit, which 
for variety and value, have few peers are: 





THE TRAGIC MUSE 
From the Edward Hornor Coates Memorial Collection 


Painted by Violet Oakley 
Courtesy of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts 





THE COMMONWEALTH 67 


P. A. B. WIDENER’S, several hundred choice and 
rare paintings, mostly masterpieces of great artists of 
the Renaissance, and modern. 

The W. L. ELKINS; many fine examples of medieval 
and modern portraiture, landscape and genre painting. 

The JOHN McFADDEN, best collection of solely 
eighteenth century English paintings in this country. 

The EDWARD T. STOTESBURY, masterpieces of the 
English School and international contemporary art. 

Should these collections accompany the WILSTACH, 
now in Memorial Hall, to the Municipal Art Museum 
in Fairmount Park, now under construction, it would 
begin its career with a wealth of paintings, more com- 
prehensive and valuable than any that ever inaugu- 
rated a similar institution, not excepting the Louvre, 
Pitti, Dresden, National in London, and Metropolitan, 
New York, which grew from small beginnings, thus 
placing the highest products of art within equal and 
easy reach of all classes. This Museum will constitute 
the central feature of a comprehensive plan in progress, 
at the head of the Parkway, for a real art center, more 
imposing in scale and impressive in its entire effect 
than any similar art center in any American City. 
The PENNSYLVANIA ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS has 
been granted a site facing the Fairmount Plaza, also 
the PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUS- 
TRIAL ART, 


ARMY AND NAVY 


THe First City Troop, Armory, Twenty-third 
Street, above Chestnut; founded in 1778. An exclu- 
sive social organization. Oldest military command in 

6 


68 THE COMMONWEALTH 


the United States in continuous active service; its tra- 
ditions of active service are as loyally preserved as its 
rights as escort of the President, and other distin- 
guished men. In the Spanish-American War in 1898, 
“The Troop” was the first body of cavalry landed at 
Porto Rico. The ‘Gentlemen of Philadelphia” met 
in Independence Hall, November 17, 1774, and formed 
a company of cavalry called, “‘The Light Horse of the 
City of Philadelphia” ; they were dismissed by Wash- 
ington after the Revolution in 1778, and reorganized 
immediately as the First City Troop; the Troop voted 
to give the certificate of dismissal, signed by Washing- 
ton, to their captain, Samuel Morris; the paper is now 
in possession of the decendants of Elliston P. Morris, 
of Germantown. FRANKFORD ARSENAL, Bridge and 
Tacony Streets; local station, Bridesburg; open, free, 
daily, 7.45 A.M. to sunset. Established, 1814; Presi- 
dent Madison was at the opening exercises. Lafayette 
stopped at the Arsenal in 1824. Here are complete 
small arms cartridge factory equipment; artillery car- 
tridge factory equipment; and machine plant for the 
manufacture of inspecting instruments; sights for 
cannon; range finders; and other instruments for fire 
control at the fortifications, etc. PHILADELPHIA NAVY 
YARD, League Island, about 1000 acres; junction of 
Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers; deeded to the National 
Government by the City of Philadelphia in 1868. 
Open to the public daily between 9.00 A. M. and 4.00 
P.M. Established about 1794 on the Delaware River 
front, at Prime Street. A large number of the old 
wooden ships of the Navy were built here, such as the 
ships of the line, Franklin, Pennsylvania and North 


THE COMMONWEALTH 69 


Carolina; frigates, United States, Raritan, and Guer- 
riere; sloops of war, Vandalia, Germantown, and Dale; 
screw steamers, Princeton, Wabash, and Lancaster; 
side wheel steamers, Mississippi and Susquehanna. At 
present there are two dry docks; shops employ 2000 
men; three large barrack buildings for the use of 
marines stationed at the Yard accommodate 1400 men. 
Admiral Benson, former Commandant, considers this 
the best Navy Yard in the Government’s possession, 
being in the center of coal and iron industries, within 
short haul, both by rail and water, for all material 
required by a great navy yard; its nearness to great 
private shipyards on the Delaware provides skilled 
mechanics in the art of ship-building, and the fresh 
water feature, being unique, is of great importance; 
barnacles accumulated in salt water drop off in fresh 
water, simply by docking here for short periods. There 
is also a large Reserve Basin called the Back Channel, 
where ships out of commission can be laid up until 
wanted. The berthing facilities may be indefinitely 
extended by constructing additional sea wall and piers. 
Fort MIFFLIN, below mouth of the Schuylkill, has case- 
ment dungeons, and earthen banks of early warfare, 
and was prominent in the Revolutionary War; designed 
and built by Major Louis de Tousard in 1798. Now, 
in the magazines, ammunition from government bat- 
tleships is stored, before they enter the Navy Yard; 
the magazines are surrounded by poles, on each pole 
is a lightning rod. UNITED STATES NAVAL ASYLUM, 
Gray’s Ferry Avenue below Bainbridge Street, classic, 
marble; has Museum of Uniforms. 


70 THE COMMONWEALTH 


HISTORIC BURIAL GROUNDS 


The earliest were connected with churches; some 
date almost from the beginning of the city. 

Baptist. BLOCKLEY CEMETERY, Meeting-House 
Lane, between Lancaster Avenue and Haverford Street; 
ground given, 1804. Church is at Fifty-third Street 
and Wyalusing Avenue. DUNKER, Germantown, on 
Germantown Avenue above Sharpnack Street; oldest 
meeting-house of the German Baptists, or Dunkers, in 
America; erected, 1770. Burial ground opened, 1793; 
in it lie Alexander Mack, founder of the sect, and Har- 
riet Livermore, the “Pilgrim Stranger” of Whittier’s 
“Snow Bound.’ MENNONITE, Germantown Avenue 
above Herman Street; church was built, 1770; many 
early Germantown settlers are buried in the yard. 
PENNYPACK, or LOWER DUBLIN, Krewston Road near 
Pennypack Creek, one mile from Bustleton; here is 
oldest Baptist church edifice in Pennsylvania, built 
about 1707; in the old time graveyard are many curious 
moss covered tombstones. ! 

Friends. When the graves are marked the stones 
are always small and inconspicuous. FAIRHILL MEET- 
ING, Germantown Avenue and Cambria Street; ground 
granted by William Penn; a large and beautiful old 
cemetery and near “Fairhill,” the great Norris estate. 
THE MEETING Houss, Fourth and Arch Streets, was 
built in 1804, but the ground was used for burials many 
years before; it is one of the oldest cemeteries in Phila- 
delphia. Some of the most prominent citizens of very 
early days lie here with nothing to mark their resting- 
place; it is computed that twenty thousand persons 
are interred here. 


THE COMMONWEALTH 71 


Jewish. MIKVEH ISRAEL, on Spruce Street, near 
Ninth; ground was granted to Nathan Levy by John 
Penn in 1788; here lies the beautiful Rebecca Gratz, 
original of Rebecca in Scott’s “Ivanhoe.” In August, 
1918, the little burial ground was opened for the inter- 
ment of her grandniece, the first burial for thirty years. 
MOovwnt SINAI, Frankford Avenue, near Bridge Street, 
has imposing entrance, erected, 1854. 

Lutheran. ST. MICHAEL’S, Germantown Avenue and 
Phil-Ellena Street, joins the church built about 1730; 
a notable grave, with flat marble stone resting on four 
columns, is that of Christopher Ludwig, “baker gen- 
eral’”’ to the American army during the Revolution. 

Methodist. St. PAUL’S, Catharine Street near Sixth. 
Church is now used as an Italian mission; has a small 
graveyard. 

Presbyterian. OF FIRST AND THIRD CHURCHES, 
Southwest corner of Fourth and Pine Streets, First 
Church, Seventh and Locust Streets, has the eastern 
section. When the First Church abandoned its old 
Market Street site for the present locality, the bodies 
were moved whenever possible, and many of the old 
headstones were inserted in the south wall of the new 
graveyard. The Third Church, called ‘Old Pine,” 
divides the grounds, using the west section; both are 
most interesting, with many people of note interred, 
including David Rittenhouse; William Hurry, who is 
said to have rung the Liberty Bell when proclaiming 
independence; Dr. William Shippen, Director General 
of Hospitals during the war for Independence; many 
Revolutionary soldiers; and Captain Charles Ross of 
the First City Troop. 


72 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Protestant Episcopal. ALL SAINTS, Bristol Turnpike, 
Torresdale. Established 1772-73, when the first church 
edifice was built. CHRIST CHURCH has two burial- 
grounds, one attached to the church on Second Street, 
North of Market, dating from the earliest days of the 
church, the other southeast corner of Fifth and Arch 
Streets, where first interment was made in 1730; 
graves of Benjamin Franklin and Deborah, his wife, 
are in the northwest corner; may be seen from Arch 
Street through an iron railing set in the brick wall; in 
these graveyards are buried may distinguished Ameri- 
cans; among them Peyton Randolph, first President 
of the Continental Congress; Commodores Truxton, 
Biddle, Bainbridge, and Dale; Robert Morris; several 
signers of the Declaration of Independence; Dr. Ben- 
jamin Rush, Dr. Philip Syng Physick, Bishop White, 
and Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg. GLORIA DEI 
(Old Swedes’), Front and Swanson Streets, south of 
Christian; church built, 1700, being the oldest church 
building in Philadelphia; a most interesting graveyard 
surrounds it; the celebrated ornithologist, Alexander 
Wilson, is buried here. ST. JAMES, KINGSESSING, 
Sixty-eighth Street and Paschall Avenue; church 
erected, 1762; General Josiah Harmer, of the Revolu- 
tion, is buried in the graveyard. ST. JAMES THE LESS, 
Hunting Park Avenue and Clearfield Street; this beau- 
tiful little Gothic church, brownstone, built 1847, has 
a number of fine monuments in the burial ground; 
John Wanamaker is buried here. ST. LUKE’S, Ger- 
mantown Avenue and Coulter Street, church dates 
from 1818; the famous Philadelphia annalist, John 
Fanning Watson, is interred in the churchyard. ST. 


THE COMMONWEALTH 73 


PETER’S, southwest corner of Third and Pine Streets; 
in the graveyard lies the body of Commodore Stephen 
Decatur, the grave surmounted by an Ionic column 
supporting an American eagle; other notable names 
here are Chew, Cadwalader, Mifflin, Binney, Biddle, 
Peale, Waln, Meade, McCall, Duché, Norris, Kuhn, 
Montgomery. TRINITY, Oxford, near Fox Chase, east 
of old Second Street Pike; present church dates from 
1711; began as a log meeting house, 1698; tombstones 
date as early as 1708; the inscriptions on some are 
quaint and original. 

Roman Catholic. Hoty TRINITY, northwest corner 
of Sixth and Spruce Streets, dates from 1789; on the 
old tombstones may be deciphered names of many of 
the early German and French inhabitants of Philadel- 
phia. Stephen Girard was buried here until 1851, 
later his body was removed to Girard College. Most 
Hoty REDEEMER, Richmond Street, opposite Hedley 
Street, Bridesburg; many of the Redemptorist Fathers 
are buried here. 


OTHER NOTABLE BURIAL GROUNDS 


NortTH CEDAR HILL, Frankford Avenue corner of 
Foust Street, incorporated, 1857; a soldiers’ monument 
to the Civil War soldiers from Frankford is in the older 
part. CRISPIN, Holmesburg; contains grave of Thomas 
Holme, who laid out the city of Philadelphia; plot is 
under care of the Crispin Association, formed of 
descendants of Holme. GLENWOOD, Ridge Avenue 
and Twenty-seventh Street, opened, 1850, has notable 
monument of the Scott Legion Association, formed 
among the surviving soldiers of the Mexican War. 


74 THE COMMONWEALTH 


GREENWOOD, Asylum Pike and Arrott Street, Frank- 
ford; established, 1869, by the benevolent order of 
the Knights of Pythias, as a burial place for members 
and their families; occupies the “Mount Airy”’ estate, 
once residence of Commodore Stephen Decatur. Hoop, 
or “THE LOWER BURIAL GROUND,” on Germantown 
Avenue at Logan Street, opened in 1698, having been 
presented to the borough of Germantown by Jan Streep- 
ers. Many early settlers of Germantown lie here; 
among them Frederic William Post, the Moravian 
missionary to the Indians, and Condy Raguet, founder 
of the Saving Fund in Philadelphia; in 1847, William 
Hood built the front entrance, of Pennsylvania marble, 
the wall and railing. Ivy HILL, East Mount Airy 
Avenue, above Stenton Avenue, chartered, 1867; 
about 80 acres; the Second Baptist Church has removed 
to Ivy Hill about 300 bodies from its old burial place 
on New Market Street; an imposing monument is 
here in memory of David Lyle, Chief Engineer of the 
Volunteer Fire Department from 1859-67. NORTH 
LAUREL HILL, East bank of Schuylkill River and Ridge 
Avenue, organized, 1835; formerly “‘Laurel,’’ country 
seat of Joseph Sims. ‘Fairy Hill,’ seat of Pepper 
family, now CENTRAL LAUREL HILL, and “ Harleigh,” 
William Rawle’s place, now SOUTH LAUREL HILL; his- 
toric dead and artistic monuments fill these cemeteries; 
Commodores Murray and Hull, General George Gordon 
Meade, and Mrs. Cornelius Stevenson, “Peggy Ship- 
pen” of the Ledger, are among those who lie here; the 
Lea Memorial, sculptor A. Sterling Calder, is very 
beautiful, the chapel is early English. Just across the 
Schuylkill River, on Belmont Avenue, at Pencoyd 


THE COMMONWEALTH 15 


Station, is WEST LAUREL HILL, opened in 1869. Gen- 
eral Herman Haupt is among those buried here. 
MONUMENT, Broad Street and Montgomery Avenue, 
was laid out by Dr. John A. Elkinton in 1836; an 
obelisk monument, on a pedestal, erected, 1859, in 
honor of Washington and Lafayette, was designed by 
John Sartain, artist, who is buried near base of shaft. 
Mount MoriAH, Sixty-second Street and Kingsessing 
Avenue, opened, 1855; has grave of Betsy Ross, over 
which a flag floats perpetually. JMouNT PEACE, Lehigh 
Avenue and Thirty-first Street, was originally country 
seat of the Ralston family, known as Mount Peace 
estate. MOUNT VERNON, Ridge and Lehigh Avenues, 
opposite Laurel Hill, chartered, 1856; the Gardel 
monument was long considered handsomest in the 
country. NATIONAL CEMETERY, Haines Street and 
Limekiln Pike, land acquired by the United States 
Government in 1885, it is well wooded, and the grounds 
are laid out with flowering plants; about 2700 Union 
soldiers are buried here; their graves marked by long 
rows of small granite slabs, bearing their names and 
the States from which they came. Soldiers of three 
wars lie here; a granite monument, erected by the 
United States, marks the burial place of 184 Confed- 
erate soldiers and sailors. PALMER, at Palmer, Bel- 
grade, and Memphis Streets, owes its origin to Anthony 
Palmer; in 1730, he purchased a large tract of land in 
“The Northern Liberties,” on which he laid out a 
town and named it Kensington; his daughter carried 
out his wishes, and bequeathed ground for a burial 
place for those living in Kensington. RONALDSON’S, 
Tenth and Fitzwater Streets, now neglected, was 


76 THE COMMONWEALTH 


founded by James Ronaldson in 1826 as a burial place 
in which persons of moderate means could find a grave 
without any of the restrictions which attended inter- 
ments in the churchyards; he gave the ground, almost 
a city square, decorated it with trees and shrubbery; 
so beautifully was it kept that it was considered “‘The 
model burial place of the City,’ until the opening of 
Laurel Hill. UppeR BURIAL GROUND, or Ax’s, Ger- 
mantown Avenue near Washington Lane. John Fred- 
erick Ax was caretaker from 1724-56; many early set- 
tlers are buried here, the oldest known grave being that 
of Cornelius Tyson, who died in 1716; there are also 
graves of some American soldiers and officers, killed in 
the Battle of Germantown; over them, John Fanning 
Watson placed a marble headstone. WOODLANDS, 
Thirty-ninth Street and Woodland Avenue, was in early 
times the country seat of William Hamilton, known as 
“The Woodlands”; acquired by Woodlands Cemetery 
Company in 1840. Many distinguished men and women 
are buried here, among them Commodore Thomas 
Stewart, who commanded the Constitution in 1812; 
General John Stewart, Major Generals D. B. Birney 
and Abercrombie of the Civil War; Rembrandt Peale; 
William K. Hewitt and P. F. Rothermel, Artists; John 
Davenport, Actor; Colonel Thomas A. Scott and J. 
Edgar Thomson; Frank and Louise Stockton; Dr. S. 
Weir Mitchell and Anthony J. Drexel. 


HISTORIC CHURCHES IN PHILADELPHIA 


Among the eight hundred and five churches in Phila- 
delphia, are: 
The Philadelphia BAPTIST, whose Association cele- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 77 


brated its two hundredth and tenth anniversary in 
1917. FIRST CHURCH, Seventeenth Street below Chest- 
nut, open daily, is a consistent example of Byzantine 
architecture with American modifications; stone; 
architect, Edgar V. Seeler. Windows made by Hein- 
ecke & Bowen are copies of the Byzantine leaded glass; 
lights and shadows in drapery are all done with leaded 
strips of glass, not painted. TEMPLE, Broad and Berks 
Streets, famous on account of its pastor, Rev. Russell 
H. Conwell, was dedicated, 1901; at that time it was 
the largest church edifice in the United States, excepting 
the Mormon Temple at Salt Lake City; auditorium 
seats 3185 people: Romanesque, with two low towers 
on the front, surmounted by large copper domes, which 
give an Oriental touch; architect, Thomas Lonsdale. 
Fine rose window in front, said to have been made by 
John LaFarge; other windows are by J. & R. Lamb 
and R. S. Groves: the Hope-Jones organ, built by the 
Rudolph Wurlitzer Company, is one of the largest in 
this country; it has all the orchestral accompaniments. 
TABERNACLE, Chestnut and Fortieth Streets, Gothic, 
stone, has a window by William Willet. There are 
about one hundred Baptist churches in Philadelphia. 

Christian Science. FIRST CHURCH OF CHRIST SCIEN- 
TIST, Walnut Street near Fortieth; Spanish architec- 
ture. 

Congregational. CENTRAL, Eighteenth and Green 
Streets, Gothic, stone, built in 1872; architect, D. Sup- 
plee; organized in 1864; first services were held in old 
Concert Hall, 1217 Chestnut Street, afterwards used 
as first Free Library Building; sermon “ Recognition,”’ 
was preached by Rev. Henry Ward Beecher; other 


78 THE COMMONWEALTH 


sermons of early days, by Richard S. Storrs, D.D. 
About nine or ten churches of this denomination are in 
Philadelphia. 
Friends’ or Quaker Meeting-Houses. 
“What dignity breathes from the lofty space 
And amplitude of hospitality 
In these old-fashioned Quaker shrines! 
Most friendly seems the long, high, sturdy roof, 
Most friendly the all-welcoming old walls 
Seen through the sheltering trees. 
O mighty oaks and noble sycamores, 
With trunks moss-silvered and with lichened limb, 
Breathe soft to me the storied memories 
And treasured records of the long rich years 
That blessed the meeting-houses.”’ 
(From “Old Meeting-Houses,” 
by John Russell Hayes.) 
For more than one hundred years there has been no 
change in the general style of architecture; before that 
time, the earliest meeting-house in Philadelphia, at 
Second and Market Streets, was built with a central 
lantern or cupola; probably copied from a meeting- 
house of similar form in Burlington, New Jersey, built, 
1682; where the yearly meeting for New Jersey and 
Pennsylvania was first held: later it met alternately at 
Philadelphia and Burlington, but since 1750 in Phila- 
delphia, Fourth and Arch Streets. One of the most 
interesting old meeting-houses, built in 1696, is at 
MERION, near Narberth Station, Pennsylvania Railroad, 
in which William Penn preached; another, that he 
attended, is the old HAVERFORD, built in the early 
eighteenth century, near Cobb’s Creek, opposite St. 


THE COMMONWEALTH 79 


Dennis Roman Catholic Church. RADNOR and PLym- 
OUTH are also interesting old houses; all these last 
named are now owned by the HICKSITE BRANCH of 
Quakers, who also own over seventy other meeting- 
houses throughout the state. Among those owned by 
the ORTHODOX BRANCH within Philadelphia are the 
Fourth and Arch Streets, not only the most important, 
but of great charm architecturally; it is very large and 
stands on ground originally given by William Penn to 
George Fox, and by the latter to Friends in America; 
and may be taken as typical of the later and best Quaker 
architecture; built in 1804, following the style of the 
pre-Revolutionary days of the houses just named, but 
adapted in material and size to the increased numbers 
worshiping within; it is of brick, set in ample grounds, 
with abundant shade; the ground about it, and much 
also covered now by the building and by Arch Street, 
is a very old burial ground, filled over several times. 
James Logan is buried under the pavement of Arch 
Street. TWELFTH STREET MEETING-HOUSE, brick, 
built in 1812, is second in importance, and one of the 
most beautiful bits in old Philadelphia. The oak 
timbers in its roof are said to have come from the 
“Great Meeting-House,”’ which succeeded that with 
the cupola at Second and Market Streets; oak timbers 
are also exposed with good effect in the upper room of 
the Arch Street house; the two houses are of the same 
general type and severely plain, but form, together 
with that at Sixth and Noble Streets, a most dignified 
trio of places for worship; remarkable for true propor- 
tion and dignity of outline, they are typical of the 
wealth and solidity of the Friends at their most fiour- 


80 THE COMMONWEALTH 


ishing period. THE MEETING Houss, Sixth and 
Noble Streets, known as “North Meeting,” once 
accommodating a large congregation, has been reduced 
in members by removals; the Yearly Meeting has 
therefore taken over its use as an adjunct to the set- 
tlement work, carried on by Friends at ‘‘ Noble House.” 
Jewish. Rosh Hashana, or the Jewish New Year’s 
Day, is the oldest festival celebrated in the civilized 
world, 1917 will usher in the year 5678; it commences 
the great series of fall holidays: ten days later is “Yom 
Kippur,” the Day of Atonement, most sacred of the 
year, when the Jews fast from sunset to sunset and 
attend the synagogues, and a week later “‘Succoth,” 
corresponding to our Thanksgiving Day, which lasts a 
week. The principal synagogues are ADATH-JESHURUN, 
Broad Street above Diamond, Egyptian; limestone 
and brick; architects, Churchman, Thomas & Molitar, 
has leaded glass windows by Nicolo D’Ascenzo. KENE- 
SETH ISRAEL, Broad Street above Columbia Avenue, 
Italian Renaissance, brick with limestone trimmings; 
architect, Hickman. MMIKVEH ISRAEL, Broad and 
York Streets, organized, 1747; moved from Seventh 
Street near Arch; French Renaissance, limestone; 
architects, Pitcher & Tachau. RODEPH SHALOM, south- 
east corner of Broad and Mt. Vernon Streets, Moorish, 
sandstone; built, 1869; architects, Furness & Evans; 
has leaded glass windows by Nicolo D’Ascenzo. 
Lutheran. The THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY of Philadel- 
phia, 7301 Germantown Avenue, was founded in 1864; 
removed to present location, 1889; site, residence of 
Chief Justice Allen; afterwards a military school of 
some distinction, ‘‘Mount Airy College.” The admin- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 81 


istration building was erected by James Gowen for a 
residence in 1848, and adapted to the wants of the 
Seminary; on the grounds are twelve buildings, includ- 
ing Krauth Memorial Library, perpendicular Gothic, 
stone, built, 1908; contains portraits; the Refectory, 
once residence of the Miller family, built, 1792, colo- 
nial; and the Ashmead-Schaeffer Memorial Chapel, 
Gothic, stone. St. MICHAEL’S, Germantown Avenue 
and Phil-Ellena Street, first church, built, 1730; 
British soldiers took refuge in the church and demol- 
ished the organ during the Battle of Germantown; 
corner-stone of present church laid, 1896. OLD ST. 
JOHNS, Race Street between Fifth and Sixth, first 
English Lutheran Church in America, colonial, brick; 
congregation organized in 1806, largely through efforts 
of General Peter Muhlenberg; contains a fine oil por- 
trait by John Neagle, painted in 1858, of Dr. Philip F. 
Mayer, first pastor 1806-58; and woodcarvings in 
front of the gallery by William Rush. ZION (German), 
Franklin Street above Race, Romanesque, brownstone, 
built, 1870, moved from southeast corner of Fourth 
and Cherry, founded 1766; a memorial service was 
held here for Washington in 1799, by General Charles 
Lee. THE MAry J. DREXEL HOME AND PHILADELPHIA 
MOTHERHOUSE OF DEACONESSES, Twenty-first Street 
and South College Avenue, modified Gothic with nu- 
merous towers, brick trimmed with sandstone, built, 
1888; provides a training school for Deaconesses of 
the Lutheran Church; home for the aged and a chil- 
dren’s hospital; a Gothic chapel on the second floor, 
has altar cloths from Neuendettelsau, Bavaria; and 
stained glass by Meyer, Munich; portraits of the 


82 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Lankenau and Drexel families are here, and an Italian 
marble bust of Mr. Lankenau by Moses Ezekiel of 
Rome. 

Methodist. SAINT GEORGE’S, 229 North Fourth 
Street, oldest Methodist church in the world, used 
continuously for worship; dedicated, 1769; Bishop 
Francis Asbury preached his first sermon in America 
here; three memorial tablets mark the front: to John 
Dickens, founder of the Methodist Book Concern, 
buried rear of the church, in 1798; to Ezekiel Cooper, 
his successor, buried in front, and one commemorating 
the first Methodist Conference in America, held in 
this church July 14, 1778. CALvaRy, Forty-eighth 
Street and Baltimore Avenue, Gothic, stone, has mural 
painting, ‘‘Sermon on the Mount,’ by H. Hanley 
Parker, and two Tiffany windows. Other Methodist 
Episcopal churches with good architecture are, ARCH 
STREET, Broad and Arch Streets, Gothic, white marble, 
and GRACE, Broad and Master Streets, Renaissance. 

Presbyterian. FIRST CHURCH, Seventh and Locust 
Streets, facing Washington Square; oldest Presby- 
terian Church in Philadelphia, founded, 1699; present 
building erected, 1820, classic, brick, rough cast; with 
Ionic porch; architect, Theophilus P. Chandler: con- 
tains Paxton memorial window by Frederick Wilson, 
interesting old tablets, and a copy of Calvin’s “ Insti- 
tutes.”” SECOND CHURCH, Twenty-first and Walnut 
Streets, French Gothic, with early English detail; 
erected, 1872; architect, Henry Sims; Richmond 
granite is used in the base, the walls are of Trenton 
stone, Cleveland sandstone for tracery of windows and 
moulding of doors, with red sandstone, blue sandstone, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 83 


and green serpentine for special parts, in contrasts of 
color and decorative effects: interior is faced with buff- 
colored brick imported from Raubon, Wales: the richly 
ornamented pulpit is of Caen stone. Windows, a dou- 
ble one, by John LaFarge; seven representing old 
Testament subjects, by Tiffany; and five apse windows 
from England. Scorts, Broad Street below Morris, 
founded, 1766: third oldest organization in the Phila- 
delphia Presbytery; is still under its original charter; 
original church was at Fourth and Bainbridge Streets, 
later on at Spruce Street above Third; Louis Philippe 
lived in the parsonage during his residence in Phila- 
delphia in 1796; John Purdon, father of Purdon’s 
Digest, was its first elder; President John Adams 
attended the church. OLD PINE STREET CHURCH, 
Fourth and Pine Streets, classic, brick, rough-cast, 
with Corinthian porch; erected, 1857, one of the walls 
being that of the original church built in 1768; the 
first pastor, George Duffield, was chaplain of all the 
Pennsylvania militia, and also served as chaplain of 
the First Continental Congress after Jacob Duché; he 
was with Washington during the retreat through New 
Jersey; was in the battles of Princeton and Trenton, 
and the British offered a price of 50 pounds sterling 
for his head; he is buried under the central aisle of the 
lecture room, and his portrait is in Independence Hall: 
John Adams, when President, was a communicant 
here; when the British occupied the city, they used 
this church as a hospital; pews and other woodwork 
were burned as fuel, and later the church was used by 
the dragoons to stable their horses. HOLLAND MEMo- 
RIAL, Broad and Federal Streets, Romanesque; buff 
7 


84 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Massillon stone, with red sandstone trimmings, from 
the Ballaclunyle quarries of Scotland; architect, David 
S. Grendell; windows by Tiffany, in the south arcade, 
are from originals by Frederick Wilson; other windows 
are by Alfred Godwin and Maitland & Armstrong; 
there are four large rose windows, in one, the patriarch 
Joshua stands in the center, clad in full armor; color 
scheme is based upon the rose window of Saint 
Chapelle, Paris; makers, William and Annie Lee Wil- 
let: under each window is a group of five arcade win- 
dows, some of them copies from originals of Sir Edwin 
Burne-Jones, for windows in Brighton and Salisbury 
Cathedrals. TABERNACLE, Thirty-seventh and Chest- 
nut Streets, is one of the finest Gothic church edifices 
in Philadelphia, in decorative English style, with tower 
130 feet high, erected, 1886; granite, with Indiana 
limestone for tracery of windows and doors; no wood 
being used in its construction, it thus resembles the 
cathedrals of the old world; chapel is connected with 
the manse by a cloistered porch. WEST ARCH STREET, 
EKighteenth and Arch Streets, Roman classic, with 
dome 170 feet above the ground, stone, plastered; has 
fine Corinthian porch. MARKET SQUARE, Germantown, 
founded, 1788: President Washington worshiped here, 
while living opposite in the old Morris house, during 
the yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia in 17938; 
during the battle of Germantown, a battalion of Vir- 
ginians, prisoners of the English, were lodged in this 
church; the old bell, cast, 1725, which was in the 
shingle roof steeple of the old church, is still intact, and 
preserved as a relic; also the “Trumpet angels in their 
gold array,” part of the original organ from Holland: 


THE COMMONWEALTH 85 


present building, French Gothic, stone, was erected 
in 1886. 

The WITHERSPOON BUILDING, Walnut Street below 
Broad, has sculpture by A. Stirling Calder and Samuel 
Murray. 

Protestant Episcopal. ST. ALBAN’S, Olney, conse- 
crated, 1915; decorated French Gothic; buttresses 
run up to above the cornice line, ending in gables with 
crockets and finials; there is a belfry tower and porch; 
interior lines are very beautiful; the high arches and 
lofty piers give an impression of great dignity and 
simplicity, well adapted for rendering the services, 
with all the accompaniment of advanced churchman- 
ship; architect, George T. Pearson. CHRIST CHURCH, 
Second Street north of Market; first Protestant Epis- 
copal Church in the province; hours of service, Sep- 
tember to July, Sundays 10.00 A. M., 11.00 A. M., 3.30 
P. M., open daily 9.00 A.M. to 3.00 P. M.; founded in 
1695, under a provision in the original charter of King 
Charles II to William Penn. John Penn, last male 
member of this line, is buried near the steps of the pul- 
pit. Present building, Georgian, erected 1747; Dr. 
John Kearsley, Building Director; the old roof, its 
wooden balustrade with carved spindles, and the steeple 
are ever of interest to architects and antiquarians. 

Here the colonial governors had their state pew, 
marked by coat of arms, bearing the monogram of 
William and Mary; the parish was subsidized by King 
William III, William of Orange; Communion silver 
presented in 1709 by Queen Anne; baptismal font dates 
from 1695, and was used for the baptism of Bishop 
White in infancy. The chime of bells pealed forth the 


86 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Declaration of Independence, in response to the Liberty 
Bell, July 8, 1776; they were made in England, and 
came over in the same ship with the Liberty Bell, were 
taken to Allentown with the Liberty Bell, and subse- 
quently rehung; are referred to by Longfellow in 
“Evangeline.”” George and Martha Washington regu- 
larly occupied pew 58 from 1790-97; it was also the 
official pew of John Adams while President, and was 
used by Lafayette in 1824; Franklin had pew 70, still 
used by his descendants; Robert Morris’ pew was 52; 
Francis Hopkinson’s, 65. General Charles Lee, of the 
Continental Army, is interred beside the southwest 
door, and near by is General Hugh Mercer; Rt. Rev. 
William White, D.D., first Bishop of Pennsylvania 
and long Presiding Bishop of the United States, is 
interred before the chancel rail, and his Episcopal 
chair is beside the altar. The church was organized; 
its constitution framed; and the amended Prayer Book 
adopted in this church, in 1785; Bishop White and 
Provost William Smith, D.D., were the Committee 
for revising and altering the liturgy of the English 
Prayer Book, for use in America. Rev. Jacob Duché 
was rector for many years. Windows illustrate the 
history of the Christian Church; made by. Heaton, 
Butler and Bains. St. CLEMENT’S, Twentieth and 
Cherry Streets, Norman Gothic, brownstone, built, 
1857; architect, John Notman; new roof of nave, apse, 
and high altar; choir and lady chapel; architect, 
Horace Wells Sellers; the sanctuary is beautifully 
designed, with effect heightened by a magnificent rere- 
dos; artist, Frederick Wilson of Briarcliff, New York, 
leaded glass of apse, and lady chapel, by Alfred God- 








BISHOP WILLIAM WHITE 


Painted by Gilbert Stuart 
Courtesy of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts 


"e 





THE COMMONWEALTH 87 


win, Philadelphia. St. ELIZABETH’S, corner of Six- 
teenth and Mifflin Streets, early Italian, with high 
Campanile; medieval exterior and interior give an 
exact idea of old Italian churches; brick; architects, 
Bailey and Bassett; the choir is raised eight steps from 
the nave, giving view of the crypt, and dignified eleva- 
tion of the high altar; over the altar is a copy of Cor- 
reggio’s “‘Marriage of St. Catharine’’; fine jeweled 
door of the Pyx on the altar; Lady chapel has an altar 
of richly carved and gilded wood, finished with a high 
reredos, copy of an original in Santo Spirito, Florence; 
paintings set in are copies of works by Fra Filipo Lippi. 
CHURCH OF THE EVANGELIST, now part of Graphic 
Sketch Club, Catharine Street above Seventh, brick, 
is a gem of medievalism; Italian Basilican style; red 
brick, relieved by stone trimmings; pillars of portico 
rest on backs of lions; architects, Furness & Evans; 
frescoes by Nicolo d’Ascenzo and by Robert Henri; 
original compositions and adaptations of great paint- 
ings in Italy; font, late English Gothic, with a richly 
carved stone; above it is the Strasbourg window, con- 
taining a figure of the prophet, Jonas; this piece of 
glass, before the Franco-Prussian War, was in the 
Cathedral of Strasbourg, and was taken from one of 
the windows after the Germans had directed. their fire 
on the church and smashed the glass: paving of the 
Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre is of Mercer tiles; Rood 
screen of polished marble, is modeled after that at St. 
Marco, Venice; Altar rail modeled after that in a 
chapel at Monreale, Sicily; the reredos, of the high 
altar, is a copy of a famous altar-piece by Carlo Crivelli; 
original now in the National Gallery, London. GLORIA 


88 THE COMMONWEALTH 


DEI (Old Swedes’), on land given by Swan Swanson, 
corner of Front and Swanson Streets, near Christian 
Street; formerly Wecacoa (Indian name for pleasant 
place); was dedicated in 1700. Georgian architecture, 
with steep pitched roof; brick work of walls, Flemish 
bond, headers coated with vitreous, blue black glaze, 
doubtless the arch bricks in the kiln; great square win- 
dows. Erected by the Swedish Lutherans; after the 
Revolution, care of the Swedish churches was com- 
mitted to the American Church, and became part of 
the Diocese of Pennsylvania. This congregation first 
worshiped in a block house, used also as a fortress 
from 1677; the font used then is still in the present 
church. Hoty TRINITY, Nineteenth and Walnut 
Streets; Norman Romanesque; architect, John Not- 
man; has fine memorial windows. ST. JAMES, Twenty- 
second and Walnut Streets, founded, 1807; present 
building, English decorated Gothic with sculptured 
band around the tower, from which rises the graceful 
memorial spire; Ohio green sandstone and granite, 
built, 1870; architect, G. W. Hewitt: pulpit; altar; 
reredos of fine perpendicular work in Caen stone, rich 
in ornamentation and sculpture, which also extends 
around the chancel, with two marble pilasters having 
delicately carved capitals; all designed by Cram, 
Goodhue and Ferguson; mosaics of the twelve apos- 
tles, in the walls of the nave, suggest those of the Popes 
in the Church of St. Paul, outside the walls, in Rome; 
leaded glass by Nicolo d’Ascenzo; font has a bas-relief 
in white marble, angel scattering flowers, made in 
Florence, Italy. St. JAMES THE LESS, near main 
entrance to Laurel Hill Cemetery; thirteenth century 


THE COMMONWEALTH 89 


Gothic; brownstone; once said to be the choicest 
specimen of church architecture in the United States. 
St. JOHN CHRYSOSTOM, corner Twenty-eighth Street 
and Susquehanna Avenue, almost an exact copy of St. 
Stephen’s Church, London, designed by Sir Christo- 
pher Wren; Renaissance, granite; architects, Bailey 
& Bassett; adapted to a square lot, the interior shows 
form of Greek cross, with inner octagon; rosettes and 
decorations of the dome are graceful and beautiful; 
columns, placed on rather high pedestals, are Vermont 
marble, with very beautiful veining, surmounted by 
Corinthian capitals: the church is almost entirely 
white, with no stained glass, and gives an impression 
of complete harmony. ST. MArk’s, Locust Street 
above Sixteenth, built, 1849; fine specimen of four- 
teenth century, decorated Gothic, brownstone; plans 
furnished by the Ecclesiological Society of Cambridge, 
England; modified by John Notman; altar and reredos 
are richly carved stone; also the pulpit and choir 
screen; notable features are the rood beam, with cross 
and figures; carved sanctuary door; choir and clergy 
stalls; the altar at head of north aisle is alabaster. 
Lady chapel, erected, 1900, contains a silver altar of 
elaborate magnificence, probably finest in the world, 
of the same style as the one at Florence, Italy, by Pal- 
lajnoli, but richer, containing twelve scenes from the 
life of the Virgin, and studded with precious stones, 
some four hundred emeralds, sapphires, and opals, a 
monumental work, which will remain a very splendid 
presentation of twentieth century English ecclesiastical 
art; altar rail is silver and bronze; stained glass win- 
dows in the church are notable; the sacred vessels and 


90 THE COMMONWEALTH 


vestments surpass any in the Angelican Communion, 
in their extraordinary richness; silver processional 
cross is supposed to be that of the Palermo Cathedral, 
in 1520; among old vestments are the coronation robes 
of Louis XV from Rheims Cathedral, of light blue 
velvet, heavily embroidered with twenty-two karat 
gold bullion. The first curate was the Rev. Morgan 
Dix, ordained priest in this church, who became the 
famous rector of Trinity Church, New York. ST. 
Mary’s, 3916 Locust Street, on ground given by Wil- 
liam Hamilton, of Woodlands; first Protestant Epis- 
copal Church in West Philadelphia, organized, 1820; 
frame church erected, 1824; Bishop White laid the 
corner-stone; present building, Gothic, consecrated, 
1890. Memorial Gothic altar, retable, and reredos 
are from famous studios in Rome, Italy, said to be the 
finest example of ecclesiastical mosaic work in this 
country: windows are from London, Paris, Munich, 
and Philadelphia. Rev. Thomas C. Yarnall celebrated 
his fiftieth anniversary as rector of St. Mary’s in 1894. 
St. PAUL’S, east side of Third Street, below Walnut; 
classic; erected, 1761; third Protestant Episcopal 
Church in Philadelphia and largest in the province; 
now headquarters of the City Mission. 'The General 
Convention met here in 1814, when Bishop Moore of 
Virginia was consecrated; Bishop Hobart preached 
the sermon. St. Paul’s Club, 411 Spruce Street, makes 
a specialty of giving aid to the down and out drunkard, 
sobering him up, fitting him for a job, and getting him 
one; in the five years of its existence to 1917, it has 
registered 45,000 transient visitors and temporary 
guests on its books. ST. PETER’S, corner of Third and 


THE COMMONWEALTH 91 


Pine Streets, second church erected in Philadelphia, 
fine example of Georgian architecture, in beauty of 
line; brick; built, 1761; tower and spire, 218 feet 
high, were added, 1842; stone finials of gateposts were 
cut in England; present wall erected in 1784, after 
the old wooden fence had been taken for fuel by the 
British. Interior still retains the high-backed box 
pews, President Washington’s among them, pew 41; the 
pulpit, surmounting the clerk’s desk, soars upward at 
the far end, opposite the altar; Provost William Smith 
preached the consecration sermon; very beautiful 
stained glass by Myeres, London; remarkable for rich- 
ness of color and design; many interesting relics in the 
church’s history are in the sacristy. CHURCH OF THE 
SAVIOUR, Thirty-eighth Street above Chestnut, archi- 
tect, C. M. Burns, has a splendidly impressive chancel; 
decoration by Edwin Howland Blashfield and furnish- 
ings are memorial to Anthony J. Drexel. Memorial 
window by William and Annie Lee Willet, “ Christ and 
Nicodemus,” has strong decorative quality and rich- 
ness of color. SoUTH MEMORIAL, CHURCH OF THE 
ADVOCATE, Eighteenth and Diamond Streets, French 
Gothic, suggested by Amiens Cathedral; built, 1897; 
stone; architect, Charles M. Burns; interior profusely 
adorned with carving, and sixty-five stained glass 
windows by Clayton and Bell, London. ST. STE- 
PHEN’S, Tenth Street above Chestnut; founded, 1823; 
early Gothic, with two octagonal towers; stone; 
designed by William Strickland; contains notable 
sculpture; the Burd Memorial, ‘Angel of the Resur- 
rection,” finest Italian marble, by Carl Steinhauser, 
native of Bremen, who studied in Rome under Thor- 


92 THE COMMONWEALTH 


waldsen; and recumbent effigy of Colonel Burd; also 
font by Steinhauser, represents three cherubs support- 
ing on their wings a large marble bowl, with sculpture 
in relief; the church, decorated by Frank Furness, 
with color, rich and unusual, sets off admirably the 
beauty of the memorial marbles; the stately reredos, 
with its brilliant Venetian mosaic picture, “The Last 
Supper,’ was made in 1889, by Salviati, Venice, from 
cartoons by Henry Holiday, London, and under his 
own supervision; large double window in transept also 
by Holiday; a Tiffany window is, “‘Christ Among the 
Lilies,’ the only flower He mentions in the Evangels, 
and accepted as symbol of the resurrection; the win- 
dow, showing the angel sitting on the edge of the tomb 
with partly unfolded wings, is copy of a picture by 
Axel Ender, over the altar of a church in Molde, 
Northern Norway; near the reredos is “The Angel of | 
Purity,” sculptor Augustus Saint Gaudens, which sug- 
gests his “Amor, Caritas,’’ owned by the French Gov- 
ernment, now in the Luxembourg; here is also a bas- 
relief by Charles Grafley of Dr. David D. Wood, organ- 
ist of St. Stephen’s for forty-six years; the great organ 
was built by C. T. Haskell, Philadelphia, in consulta- 
tion with Dr. Wood; pipes were voiced in the church, 
resulting in a sweetness and just proportion of tone; 
its echo organ, located about two hundred feet away, 
is in the loft over the chancel. Parish house is on site 
of the old graveyard, tombstones are in pavement of 
cloister; architect, George C. Mason, Jr. TRINITY, 
Oxford, Oxford Road and Second Street Pike; colonial; 
founded, 1698. Present brick church erected 1711-12; 
the transepts and tower later; was the first house of 


THE COMMONWEALTH 93 


worship in Pennsylvania, owned and occupied by the 
Quakers, and presented by them to the Church of 
England, for Episcopal use and worship. Chalice and 
paten sent by Queen Anne, engraved ‘‘ Anne Regina,” 
1718; she died in 1714, it is probably the last one she 
sent to America, and has been used in every Holy 
Communion for over two centuries. Tiffany altar 
window, ‘‘The Baptism of Christ.”’ The altar, of wal- 
nut and oak, is beautifully carved. This is the mother of 
many flourishing missions, St. Luke’s, Germantown; 
Our Saviour, Jenkintown; St. Mark’s, Frankford; 
Emmanuel, Holmesburg; Holy Trinity, Rockledge; 
and Trinity Chapel, Crescentville; today it stands, 
vigorous and full of life, in its old age, greatly enlarged 
and carefully restored; the utmost care has been taken 
to disturb none of the old walls, and to keep the his- 
toric features intact; the glass, in the body of the 
church, is an opaque yellow, harmonizing with the 
colonial buff of the walls and barrel ceiling. The 
churchyard is of great interest, one stone, dated, 1686, 
is said to mark the grave of an Indian. 

The Reformed Church in the United States, which 
brought its beautiful and significant emblem, “The 
lily among thorns,” from the fatherland, is derived 
from the Reformed Churches of Switzerland and Ger- 
many; these churches are largely to be found in the 
counties east of the Susquehanna River. William 
Penn’s mother, Margaret Jasper, was reared in this 
faith; noted members who came here were Michael 
Schlatter, in 1746, from St. Gall, Switzerland; sent to 
establish an ecclesiastical organization; he was prac- 
tically the first superintendent of public instruction in 


94 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Pennsylvania; died, 1790, and was buried in the Re- 
formed graveyard in Philadelphia, now Franklin 
Square; Colonel Henry Bouquet, from Switzerland, 
proved the saviour of the early settlers in Pontiac’s 
war and obtained the restoration of all captives to their 
homes; three hundred and seventy were brought back; 
and Baron von Steuben, who had served on the staff 
of Frederick the Great at the siege of Prague, drilled 
our men into efficiency to cope with the British regu- 
lars; later he commanded at the Siege of Yorktown, 
which he pressed so vigorously that Cornwallis was 
obliged to surrender. Zion Reformed Church at Allen- 
town sheltered our Liberty Bell and the Christ Church 
bells during the Revolution; among their thirty 
churches in Philadelphia and vicinity, of Gothic archi- 
tecture, stone, are the FIRST CHURCH, Fiftieth and 
Locust Streets; oldest of this denomination in Phila- 
delphia; moved from Tenth and Wallace Streets; 
PALATINATE, Fifty-sixth Street and Girard Avenue; 
St. JOHN’S, Fortieth and Spring Garden Streets; and 
TRINITY, northeast corner of Broad and Venango 
Streets. There are also five churches of the Dutch 
Reformed. 

Roman Catholic. The churches of this denomina- 
tion are all notable for good architecture, interior sump- 
tuous, ecclesiastical decoration. CATHEDRAL OF SS. 
PETER AND PAUL, finely situated on Logan Square 
and the Parkway; Classic Renaissance, brownstone; 
built 1846-64; architect, Napoleon LeBrun; “The Cru- 
cifixion,’’ back of the high altar, genuine fresco paint- 
ing, is by Constantine Brumidi, who, about the same 
time, executed important decorations, in the same 


THE COMMONWEALTH 95 


medium, in the dome of the Capitol at Washington; 
on entering the church, in chapels on both sides of the 
door,are mural decorations by Henry J. Thouron, said, 
by high authority, to be the best mural paintings in 
the United States; the first was placed in 1911 as a 
fitting background for a statue of the Virgin and Child 
by Louis Madrazzi, which Mr. Thouron brought from 
Paris as a gift to the Cathedral; in the north transept 
is a painting, “‘The Dead Christ,” attributed to Titian; 
a work of art of exceptional merit is a large ivory cruci- 
fix, the master work of Carlo Pazenti, an Augustinian 
lay brother, about 1840; acquired for the church, with 
much difficulty, by the venerable John N. Neumann, 
fourth Bishop of Philadelphia; when, during the Civil 
War, the Sanitary Fair was being held in Logan Square, 
Archbishop Wood, then Bishop Wood, exhibited this 
beautiful work daily, for the benefit of the great cause; 
it was returned each evening to its place in the Cathe- 
dral. St. JOHN THE EVANGELIST, Thirteenth Street 
above Chestnut, for a short time the cathedral; early 
English, Gothic; interior, perpendicular Gothic; cor- 
ner-stone laid by Bishop Kenrick, third Bishop of 
Philadelphia; church opened April 8, 1832: a flagella- 
tion of Christ, much darkened, by Garacci, was pre- 
sented to the church by Joseph Bonaparte soon after 
its completion: Mozart’s “Requiem Mass” was ren- 
dered, for the first time in America, at St. John’s 
Church, and the music there today, is said to be the 
best church music in Philadelphia. ST. PATRICK’S, 
Twentieth Street below Locust, originated in a frame 
church in 1839, on east side of Nineteenth Street near 
Spruce; the seventy-fifth anniversary was celebrated 


96 THE COMMONWEALTH 


in 1916, was attended by many notable dignitaries of the 
church. Windows by d’Ascenzo. ST. FRANCIS DE 
SALES, Forty-seventh Street and Springfield Avenue, 
Romanesque, with Byzantine details; built, 1907-10; 
architect, Henry D. Dagit, Philadelphia; the leaded 
glass is particularly beautiful; windows are of the 
antique school and extremely rich in color, including 
four rose windows, designed and made by Nicolo 
d’Ascenzo, Philadelphia. Four old historic churches 
rather near together, ST. JOSEPH’S, on Willing’s Alley, 
south of Walnut, below Fourth Street; built on site 
of first Roman Catholic Church in Pennsylvania, estab- 
lished by a member of the “Society of Jesus” from 
Maryland, in 1731; St. MAry’s, Fourth Street, above 
Spruce; ST. AUGUSTINE’S, Fourth Street, above Race; 
and Hoty TRINITY, northwest corner of Sixth and 
Spruce Streets, had their origin in the eighteenth cen- 
tury, the first two long before the Revolution. St. 
Augustine’s is on site of a building erected in 1801, by 
the hermits of the Order of St. Augustine; it had Wil- 
liam Rush’s wooden sculpture ‘The Crucifixion,” but 
this was burned in 1847. Holy Trinity, German, is 
of somewhat earlier date; the wayfarer who now looks 
in on any of them may readily picture them as they 
were over one hundred years ago. In St. Mary’s 
Church is a very fine pieta by Boucher, a modern 
French sculptor. 

Swedenborgian, or The New Church, grew out of 
the teachings of Emmanuel Swedenborg, scholar, trav- 
eler, scientist, and religious writer, born in Stockholm, 
Sweden, in 1688. A school of the New Church 
was started in Philadelphia in 1854. First “NEw 


THE COMMONWEALTH 97 


JERUSALEM” CHURCH, Twenty-second and Chestnut 
Streets, Gothic, brownstone, was built in 1884; archi- 
tect, Theophilus P. Chandler. Connected with it is a 
free library and reading room. 

Unitarian. FIRST CHURCH, Chestnut Street near 
Twenty-second, built, 1885; was organized, 1796, in 
a room of the University of Pennsylvania; in 1797 Dr. 
Joseph Priestly delivered an address to this Society, 
and enrolled himself among the members. William 
Henry Furness was ordained pastor in 1825, in the 
church at the corner of Tenth and Locust Streets; 
present church contains some interesting memorials, | 
Dr. Furness, bust by M. Launt Thompson, New York; 
circular window to Dr. Priestly by John LaFarge; 
other windows are English; and some are by Tiffany, 
New York. GIRARD AVENUE UNITARIAN, Girard 
Avenue above Fifteenth Street, organized by the Rev. 
Charles G. Ames, in the late seventies; Gothic, granite. 
GERMANTOWN UNITARIAN, corner of Chelten Avenue 
and Greene Street, built, 1866; Gothic; architect, 
Frank Furness; has good stained glass windows, made 
by Heaton, Butler and Bayne, London. Rev. Samuel 
Longfellow, brother of the poet, was pastor for some 
years; also the Rev. Charles G. Ames. 


FAIRMOUNT PARK 


On east and west banks of the Schuylkill River, and 
Wissahickon Creek; second largest municipal park in 
the world, 3597 acres; its only superior in acreage being 
Blue Hills Park, Boston, with 4906 acres. The ravines, 
“unkempt and wild,” all have springs of clear, cold 
water. Main entrance at Green Street is also approach 


98 THE COMMONWEALTH 


to the proposed PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART, on a 
raised terrace, like a Greek Temple, facing the Park- 
way; Horace Trumbauer, C.C. Zantzinger, and Charles 
L. Borie, Jr., architects; part of the plan for devel- 
opment of Philadelphia within a radius of thirty miles: 
here also is the ‘‘Washington Monument,” sculptor, 
Professor Siemering of Berlin, erected by the ‘Society 
of the Cincinnati.’”’ Continue drive, to the Schuylkill 
River, proposed Ericsson Memorial, Paul B. Cret, archi- 
tect, was commissioned to prepare a design for devel- 
opment of the entire basin, from boat houses to Spring 
Garden Street, including the AQUARIUM, formed, 1911, 
using the classic marble buildings of the old waterworks; 
it is said to be the best equipped in the world; walls of 
exhibition tanks are covered with calcareous tufa, rock 
shell formation from the Ohio River Valley, full of 
holes, in which deep water vegetation is planted to 
suggest sea bottom; Arctic and tropical life have their 
own temperatures; also hatching rooms. ‘This tract 
and Rocky Hill, of the old waterworks, five acres, 
between Green and Callowhill Streets, was named by 
William Penn, FAIR MOUNT; it was used as the terminal 
pillar of the British redoubts, stretching across the 
city from the Schuylkill to the Delaware, in 1777-78. 
Acquired by the city in 1812 as site for the city water- 
works, moved from Centre Square, for park purposes. 
This was the beginning of Fairmount Park; to beau- 
tify the grounds, walks were laid out up to the reser- 
voir, and the rock decorated with sculpture, chiefly 
woodcarving, by William Rush, including the groups, 
“The Schuylkill in an Improved State,” and “The 
Schuylkill in Chains,” which are still over the entrances 


THE COMMONWEALTH 99 


to the wheel houses; ‘Justice’? and “‘ Wisdom,”’ full- 
length statues, carved for decoration of the triumphal 
arch in front of the State House at Lafayette’s recep- 
tion in 1824, are now in the hatching room; and “Leda 
and the Swan,” modeled in 1812 from Miss Vanuxen, 
a Philadelphia belle, a bronze reproduction is here now. 
Boat houses are of decorative construction. THE 
SCHUYLKILL NAVY, said to be the most complete asso- 
ciation devoted to rowing in the world, is the center 
for test trials of skill and endurance, of national inter- 
est; it is known as the American Henley; the course 
above Columbia Avenue bridge is ideal for oarsmen, 
and the banks rise like seats of an auditorium. On 
the main drive from the Aquarium are the LINCOLN 
MONUMENT, bronze, sculptor, Randolph Rogers, made 
in Rome, cast in Munich; Iron Spring, and a bronze 
group, “‘ Lioness Carrying to Her Young a Wild Boar,” 
sculptor, August Cain; near Brown Street entrance is 
bronze group, “Silenus and the Infant Bacchus”’; 
original in the Louvre, credited to Praxiteles; and the 
bronze group, “The Wrestlers,” from original antique 
in the Royal Gallery, Florence; both reproduced by 
Barbedienne, Paris. 

LEMON HILL MANSION, built by Henry Pratt about 
1800, near site of favorite home of Robert Morris. 
“The Hills,” planned by Major L’Enfant, built, 1773; 
the property was bought by the city in 1844, and dedi- 
cated, in 1855, as a Public Park. Northwest on main 
drive is GRANT’S CABIN, headquarters of General U. S. 
Grant in siege of Richmond, 1864-65, brought to the 
Park from City Point, Virginia, at close of Civil War; 
opposite is SEDGELEY GUARD Houss, formerly the 

8 


100 THE COMMONWEALTH 


porter’s lodge of the Sedgeley Park Estate, site of a 
Gothic mansion, built, 1800, by William Crammond; 
acquired for the Park by public-spirited citizens; on 
same drive, near east end of Girard Avenue bridge, is 
the replica bronze equestrian statue of “JEANNE 
D’Arc,” sculptor, Fremiet, Paris; among the best 
examples of modern French equestrian sculpture. The 
original is in “‘La Place des Pyramids,”’ Paris. 

RIVER DRIVE near boat houses, “Tam O’Shanter,” 
four figures, red sandstone, sculptor, Thom; from the 
last boat house, or the Beacon Light, to Girard Avenue 
bridge will be the ELLEN PHILLIPS SAMUEL MEMORIAL, 
for which she left $500,000 in 1913; Fairmount Park 
Art Association, legatee; ‘“‘On top of stone bulkhead 
I will have erected, 100 feet apart, on high granite 
pedestals, uniform in size and style, the History of 
America, symbolized in a system of statuary’’; model 
made by Edgar V. Seeler. Near are the heroic bronze 
bust of James A. Garfield, with allegorical figure, 
sculptor, Augustus Saint Gaudens; the colossal bronze 
equestrian group, “Lion Fighter,” on natural jutting 
rock, sculptor, Professor Albert Wolff, cast, 18938; and 
scattered along, five bronzed iron fountains, replicas of 
those at Rond Point, Champs Elysees, cast in Paris 
at foundry of Val D’Osne. | 

North of tunnel, above Girard Avenue bridge, on 
River Drive, bronze equestrian statue, “Cowboy,” 
sculptor, Frederick Remington; a band of cowboys and 
Indians participated in the unveiling; River and Foun- 
tain Green Drive, heroic bronze equestrian statue, 
“General U. S. Grant’; sculptors, Daniel Chester 
French for Grant, Edward C, Potter for horse, modeled 


THE COMMONWEALTH 101 


from the nineteen-year-old gelding, ‘General Grant,” 
sired by an Arabian stallion (Leopold), presented to the 
General in 1878 by the Sultan of Turkey; cast by 
Bureau Bros., Philadelphia, mounted on Jonesboro 
granite pedestal, designed by Frank Miles Day and 
Brother. Columbia Avenue entrance, fountain of ‘‘ Or- 
estes and Pylades,”’ bronze group, on Richmond granite 
pedestal, with bronze masks; sculptor, Carl Stein- 
haeuser, Calsruhe, Germany; cast in Philadelphia; 
near is the Children’s Playground building, erected by 
Richard and Sarah Smith in 1898; and a park man- 
sion, MT. PLEASANT, land bought from Phineas Bond 
by John MacPherson, who built the house in 1761, 
after style of a house in Scotland owned by the chief 
of his clan, the MacPhersons of Clunie; in 1779, pur- 
chased by Benedict Arnold; on his conviction for 
treason, it was confiscated by the state; in 1781-82 
Baron von Steuben occupied it, and here wrote the 
army regulations which created the American Army; 
in 1868 it became property of the city, and was added 
to Fairmount Park. 

ROCKLAND comes next, on west side of Dairy Ball 
Field, occupied 1750-65 by John Lawrence, a notable 
mayor of Philadelphia; near Rockland is ORMISTON, 
colonial, owned by Edward Burd, prothonotary, 
Supreme Court of Pennsylvania, named for Scotch 
home of Mrs. Burd, daughter of Lord Haliburton of 
Ormiston, who founded the Burd Orphan Asylum; near 
Dauphin Street entrance, Grand Fountain, bronze and 
iron, and park trolley station. | 

Northwest is WOODFORD mansion; ground deeded 
by Penn to Dennis Rockford in 1693; house built, 1742, 


102 THE COMMONWEALTH 


by William Coleman, an original member of the Junto 
Club; friend of Franklin and Judge of the Supreme 
Court of Pennsylvania, colonial, brick; original oak 
floor is still in fine state of preservation; boards doweled 
together; laths are hand-cut, and handwork on cor- 
nices and wainscoting most beautiful; fireplace and 
mantel in main room are worthy of attention, although 
now marred by paint; later it became the home of the 
Franks family; EDGELEY ball field, site of residence 
built by Philip Syng Physick, 1828-86, Professor of 
Surgery at University of Pennsylvania and first Ameri- 
can to be elected member of the Royal Academy of 
France; the RANDOLPH MANSION is west of Edgeley; 
interesting colonial house with beautiful handwork in 
cornices. 

STRAWBERRY MANSION, near Dauphin Street en- 
trance; residence of William Lewis; then called Sum- 
merville, now used as a restaurant; name was given 
when added to the park; fine colonial architecture; 
main hall shows still how beautiful it must have been, 
with exquisite handwork on cornices, wainscoting, and 
niches in the hall ornamented with hand tracery. 

Along the river drive we pass other country seats 
known as Harleigh, Fairy Hill, and the Laurels, now 
South, Central, and North Laurel Hill. Near the 
Falls on east side of Ridge Road, stood the home of 
Governor Thomas Mifflin, the fighting Quaker; from - 
the Falls bridge a fine view is obtained of the Schuylkill 
Navy’s race course. 

Farther up is the WISSAHICKON Creek, Wisamickan 
(Catfish Creek), or Wisaucksickan (yellow colored 
stream); we enter the deep recesses of this ravine, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 103 


where the waters empty into the Schuylkill River; 
tradition says that on the northwest bank stood a flour 
mill; in Revolutionary times the owner ground glass or 
plaster, with the wheat, for the patriot army, for this 
crime some of Washington’s soldiers hanged him on a 
tree in front of his mill; here General Armstrong’s corps 
attacked the Hessian and British soldiers, October 4, 
1777, while the Battle of Germantown was in progress: 
up the Wissahickon drive is Maple Spring Hotel, 
decorated by grotesque figures of animals and birds, 
carved out of native laurel; beyond this, across the 
stream, are abrupt bluffs, from one, the most prominent, 
called Lover’s Leap, tradition says, a young Indian and 
the girl whom he loved, being forbidden to marry, 
plunged into the waters below and were drowned; a 
steep grade leads to the six-mile stone; here Paper Mill 
Run empties into the Wissahickon, and here Nicholas 
Rittenhouse had his grist mill; just beyond, close be- 
side an old bridge, is a quaint old house, inside is a 
stone tablet marked “C. W. R. 1707,” here DAVID 
RITTENHOUSE, the famous astronomer, was born; on 
Paper Mill Run, the first paper mill in this country was 
erected, about 1690, by William Rittenhouse: a portion 
of this land near Tulpehocken Street, within park 
limits, once belonged to the Queen of Spain; farther. is 
the Blue Stone Bridge, and just beyond is Lotus Inn. 
Northward, the east shore becomes more steep, to 
Mom Rinker’s Rock, she is said to have been a witch; 
upon the height stands a statue of WILLIAM PENN, 
with the single word “Toleration”’ cut on the pedestal; 
the statue and land were given to the city, for park 
purposes, by Hon. John Welsh, ex-minister to England. 


104. THE COMMONWEALTH 


One quarter mile farther is Kitchen Lane, and the 
HERMIT’S WELL, dug by Johannes Kelpius, scholar and 
mystic, who came from Germany with his followers, 
forty men, the number of perfection, in 1694, “to the 
new world, to see the dawn of the millennium; the path- 
way to the Light Illumitable, in the glory of religious 
liberty in Pennsylvania”; they were followers of the 
Essenes who lived in the solitudes of the Dead Sea, of 
which St. John the Baptist is said to have been a mem- 
ber; the Ridge and Valley of the Wissahickon gave 
them a temple of sacred grandeur; places there are now 
known as Hermit’s Land, and Hermit’s Glen; the piety 
and humility of Kelpius made him renowned; John 
Rogers of Connecticut and leaders of other colonies 
came long distances to consult this great Magister, he 
lived wholly to the service of God and his fellow men; 
the Baptistry, a place in the creek, is shown where the 
monks immersed their converts; after Kelpius’ death, 
about 1710, his followers built the monastery, replaced 
in 1752 by a stone house, built by Joseph Gorgas, also 
called the monastery; ruins still there: the bones of 
these faithful men are interred under the floor, in the 
chancel of St. Michael’s Protestant Episcopal Church, 
High Street, Germantown; also some of their original 
headstones are there: their books were given, in 1728, 
to Christ Church, Philadelphia, where they may still be 
seen: the cult is now found about Ephrata, among the 
Seventh Day Baptists. 

Beyond the monastery, near Livezey’s Lane, are 
caves, said to have been the abode of hermits. Half a 
mile farther is Livezey’s mansion, built, 1698, said to 
have been neutral ground where British and American 


THE COMMONWEALTH 105 


officers met during 1777-78; now headquarters of the 
Valley Green Canoe Club; above is Cresheim Creek, a 
small tributary flowing into the Wissahickon Creek, 
among great masses of huge rocks, under tall pines, 
making a dark pool, called the Devil’s Pool; said to be 
bottomless; scene of an engagement during the Battle 
of Germantown. Just beyond is Valley Green, a quaint 
old wayside inn; here is a stone bridge with strong but- 
tresses and single arch; the reflection makes a clear 
oval; farther is the first drinking fountain erected in 
Philadelphia, ‘‘Pro Bono Publico,” placed in 1854; 
white marble; half a mile beyond, at east end of Rex 
Avenue Bridge, is Indian Rock, summit crowned by 
heroic statue of Tedyuscung, last of Indian chiefs to 
leave the shores of the Delaware. Northwest the 
ravine is deep and the hills steep, winding toward 
Chestnut Hill. It is proposed by the city to extend 
Fairmount Park, on both sides of the Wissahickon, to 
Fort Washington, and include Militia Hill at White- 
marsh, famous in the Revolution, making the Park 
one thousand acres larger. 

WEST PARK, west end of Girard Avenue Bridge, 
ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, open daily, including Sundays; 
in front, bronze group, “The Dying Lioness’’; sculptor, 
Professor Wilhelm Wolff, Berlin, cast in Munich. 
The inclosure embraces SOLITUDE, a mansion built in 
1785 by John Penn, the poet, grandson of the founder 
and cousin of John Penn of Lansdowne; was last 
property owned in America by the Penn family; nota- 
ble decorations are in the ground floor room; ceiling, 
fine example of French stucco, Louis XV period. The 
Zodlogical Gardens were incorporated in 1859; oldest 


106 THE COMMONWEALTH 


incorporated body of its kind in America; on an area of 
forty-one acres arranged by H. Schwarzmann in 1873. 
opened, 1874, with large and attractive buildings, in 
which representative species of living animals are 
shown; it is a private organization; the Pathological 
Laboratory has for its objects, assistance in the hygienic 
control of the Garden; collection of statistics upon dis- 
eases of wild animals; and research: many species of 
water, and other birds, are on the large lake, and in- 
closures scattered through the Garden. 

Opposite, on Girard Avenue, is WILLIAM PENN’S 
Housgs, originally in Letitia Street, near Second and 
Market; first brick house in Philadelphia, built, 1683, 
removed in 1883; LANSDOWNE ENTRANCE to the Park, 
under two spacious elliptical arches of the Pennsylvania 
Railroad viaduct, carrying the railroad across Girard 
Avenue, is a dignified and handsome structure. Near 
is bronze group, “Hudson Bay Wolves,” sculptor, 
Edward Kemeys, cast in Philadelphia. 

In 1732, ‘The State in Schuylkill,” a fishing club, 
first social club in Philadelphia, leased an acre of land 
near here, and built a hut; annual rental, three sun 
perch, presented on a pewter plate; they were here for 
ninety years; now in New Jersey; the members 
espoused the Revolutionary cause, and in 1774 formed 
a Company, called ‘‘The Light Horse,” afterwards, in 
1778, became the First City Troop. 

On Lansdowne Drive is SWEET BRIER MANSION, 
built by Samuel Breck about 1810; colonial, in the 
hall is an interesting wrought iron grill; in front is 
bronze Indian group, THE STONE AGB, sculptor, John 
J. Boyle; cast in France. THE SMITH MEMORIAL 


THE COMMONWEALTH 107 


GATE, to Pennsylvania men distinguished in the Civil 
War, is at entrance to the Esplanade; architects, James 
and John T. Windrim, erected, with statuary, 1897- 
1912; sculpture all colossal; equestrian, Major General 
Hancock, sculptor, J. Q. A. Ward; and Major General 
McClellan, sculptor, Edward C. Potter; statues, 
Major General Meade, sculptor, Daniel Chester French; 
Major General Reynolds, sculptor, Charles Grafly; 
Richard Smith, sculptor, Herbert Adams; busts, 
Admiral Porter, sculptor, Charles Grafly; Major Gen- 
eral Hartranft, sculptor, A. Stirling Calder; Admiral 
Dahlgren, sculptor, George E. Bissel; James H. Wind- 
rim, sculptor, Samuel Murray; Major General S. W. 
Crawford, sculptor, Bessie O. Potter Vonnoh; Gov- 
ernor Curtin, sculptor, Moses Ezekiel; General James 
A. Beaver, sculptor, Katharine M. Cohen; John B. 
Gest, sculptor, Charles Grafly; two eagles and globes, 
sculptor, J. Massey Rhind. 

The JOHN WELSH MEMORIAL, President of the CEN- 
TENNIAL EXPOSITION, formal Garden, with fountain, on 
site of Centennial main building, Parkside Avenue 
approach to Memorial Hall; “Florentine Lions,’ cast 
by Harrison, Winans and Eastwick at Alexandroffsky, 
Russia, in 1849, from pair at entrance of Imperial 
Mechanical Works, originals at entrance to Loggia di 
Lanzi, Florence; MEMORIAL HALL, front terrace, 
bronze, Spanish cannon, Miltiades, date, 1748; bronze, 
Spanish cannon, Semiramis, date, 1737; bronze, 
Spanish mortar, date, 1731, from fortifications in Cuba; 
carved decorations with Spanish royal arms of Philip 
and Elizabeth Farnese; two bronze groups: “ Winged 
Horses,” led by muses of epic and lyric poetry, Calliope 


108 THE COMMONWEALTH 


and Clio; sculptor, Pilz, made for Vienna Opera House, 
Austria; Memorial Hall, German Renaissance; archi- 
tect, Hermann J. Schwarzmann; contains complete 
model of the arrangement of the Centennial buildings, 
made to scale by John Baird; first International Ex- 
position held in America; when our national art was 
invigorated by competition with masterpieces of other 
lands, and now challenges comparison with the best: 
also Pompeian collection of paintings, illustrative of 
Pompeian life; and bronze face and hands of Abraham 
Lincoln; casts taken from first replicas, of original casts 
from life, in 1860; sculptor, Leonard W. Volk, Chicago; 
for collections, see Art. North of Memorial Hall is 
heroic bronze equestrian statue, MAJOR GENERAL 
GEORGE GORDON MEADE, sculptor, Alexander Milne 
Calder. 

HORTICULTURAL HALL, erected 1876, on site of LANS- 
DOWNE MANSION, built by Governor John Penn in 
1773; stone; Italian; in 1816, leased by Joseph Bona- 
parte for two years, accidentally destroyed by fire in 
1854. In 1866, the land was acquired from Barney 
family for the park; Moorish style, architect, Hermann 
J. Schwarzmann, also responsible for plan of adjacent 
sunken garden: no other building for similar purposes 
in this country can approach it, in dignity of design: 
contains marble statue “Il Penseroso,” sculptor, 
Mosier, acquired, 1874. Notable plants housed in 
this building are a gigantic specimen of Atialea Cohiene, 
bay oil palm, from Central America, possibly most 
superb palm to be seen under glass anywhere; Phenix 
Canariensis from the Canary Islands; Seaforthias from 
Australia; Howeas from Lord Howe’s Island; Cocoa 


THE COMMONWEALTH 109 


palms; Ceroxylon, wax palms, towering sixty or seventy 
feet; giant Rubber trees; Araucarias from Australia; 
Bamboos from the Orient; and lofty Tree Ferns from 
New Zealand unite to produce a wonderfully impres- 
sive scene, not unlike a glorified tropical forest, empha- 
sized by training creepers up the lofty stems, growing 
ferns and orchids in crotches of the limbs, and by the 
strange aerial roots which reach down from these cling- 
ing plants to seek nourishment in the soil below, as in 
the tropical jungle. The Cactus house is arranged to 
give something the effect of arid regions, by planting 
in sterile soil; the Fern houses, with superb collections 
of Tree Ferns, and smaller growing Adiantums, Neph- 
rolepis, Acrostichums, recall the effect of mountain 
ravines. A special house is given to the Cycads or 
Sago palms, survivals of vegetation of fossil beds, of 
which this collection is unique in this country. An- 
other tropical house contains the Bromeliad or pine- 
apple family, collection unique in many respects. 

In the gardens, most striking features are the rare 
trees, golden larch, Pseudo-Larix; the Gordonias, Frank- 
linias; oaks. East front has bronze busts of SCHUBERT, 
granite pedestal with bronze bas-relief; ‘Music,’ 
sculptor, Henry Baerer, New York; HAYDEN, a 
trophy won by United Singers of Philadelphia at the 
National Saengerfest; VERDI, on artistic sandstone 
pedestal, with carved figure; “Religious Liberty,’ 
marble, sculptor, Moses Ezekiel; presented by the 
Hebrew Society B’nai B’rith. A short walk east, near 
Columbia Avenue bridge, is said to be Tom Moore’s 
cottage; the poet was a frequent guest both at Belmont 
and Ormiston, with communication by boat. 


110 THE COMMONWEALTH 


THE SUNKEN GARDEN, west, rearranged to conform to 
Moorish ideals of garden approaches, is now a pool, 
about eight hundred feet long, similar to that before 
the Taj Mahal, flanked on both sides by spreading 
Oriental planes; beyond this central feature are flower 
gardens, following the Oriental in color arrangement, 
making an effect of noble proportions. A bronze SUN- 
DIAL shows the variations for each month of the year, 
and the time at twelve o’clock in twelve principal 
cities of the world; on Tennessee marble pedestal, 
with four supporting female figures, emblematic of the 
four seasons; sculptor, A. Sterling Calder. Bronze 
statues of Schiller, made in 1886, granite pedestal with 
bronze panels in bas-relief representing poetry, his- 
tory, drama; and of his friend Goethe, made in 1890, 
granite pedestal decorated with bronze laurel wreaths. 

Roman Catholic CENTENNIAL FOUNTAIN, erected by 
the Total Abstinence Societies, sculptor, Herman Kern. 
JAPANESE TEMPLE GATE and lotus pond, near Belmont 
Avenue, part of Japanese exhibit in St. Louis, in 1904, 
showing best Japanese work of three hundred years 
ago; also on way to George’s Hill are, the Ohio, 
English, and Rhode Island Centennial buildings. 
GEORGE’S HILL, eighty-three acres, acquired by bequest 
to the City of Philadelphia, in 1868, through the Fair- 
mount Park Commission, for the health and enjoy- 
ment of the people forever. 

BELMONT MANSION, built, 1743, by William Peters, 
stone, on estate of two hundred acres, approached by 
avenue of tall hemlocks, ninety feet high. Washington 
and Lafayette both planted trees here; view down the 
Schuylkill is like the Rhine; City Hall Tower focuses 


THE COMMONWEALTH 111 


the eyes in the distance; Richard Peters, his son, wit 
and scholar, born here, was made Judge of the United 
States District Court of Pennsylvania by Washington; 
who was entertained here; also Hancock, the Adamses, 
Jefferson, Steuben, Talleyrand, and Louis Philippe. 

North of Belmont is RIDGELAND, once private resi- 
dence; continue northeast near Park Trolley Station, 
CHAMOUNIX mansion, formerly known as Mount Pros- 
pect for its fine situation; built, 1802, by George Plum- 
stead, a Philadelphia merchant. 


OTHER SQUARES AND PARKS 


William Penn, in his city plan, laid out five squares. 
PENN SQUARE, Broad and Market Streets, site of early 
waterworks; now occupied by City Hall; WASHING- 
TON, Sixth and Walnut Streets; first Potter’s Field; 
RITTENHOUSE, Eighteenth and Walnut Streets, remod- 
eled like a French park; playground for children of 
city’s social center; LION AND SERPENT, bronze; sculp- 
tor, Barye; replica of one in the Garden of the Tuil- 
leries, Paris; THE Duck GIRL, bronze; sculptor, Paul 
Manship; BILuy, sculptor, Albert Laessle. LOGAN, 
on the Parkway; SwAN MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN to be in 
center, sculptor, A. Sterling Calder. This was the 
second Potter’s Field, and place of public executions; 
site of Sanitary Fair, in 1864, for the Civil War, visited 
by President and Mrs. Lincoln, pronounced most 
brilliant affair ever held in America. FRANKLIN, Sixth 
and Race Streets, formerly a burial ground. 

Broad Street, running north and south, is 113 feet 
wide and 12 miles long from League Island to City 
Line. BURHOLME, near Fox Chase, museum and library 


112 THE COMMONWEALTH 


given and maintained by provision in will of Robert W. 
Ryerss; over forty-eight acres; opened to public in 
1910. CLARK’S, Forty-third Street and Chester Avenue, 
has artistic bronze group, DICKENS AND LITTLE NELL, 
made in 1890; sculptor, Frank Edwin Elwell; awarded 
gold medals, Philadelphia, 1891; Chicago, 1898. COBB’s 
CREEK, 338 acres, formed, 1904; follows Cobb’s Creek 
on east bank; chiefly steep, tree-covered slopes for 
107 acres; crossing at Mount Moriah Cemetery; 
widens, north of Market Street, into rolling landscape; 
has public golf links. FERNHILL, ten acres, bounded 
by Wissahickon Avenue, Roberts Avenue, Schuyler 
Street, and Abbottsford Avenue, Germantown; memo- 
rial to Mr. and Mrs. Thomas McKean, part of their . 
old homestead, given by their children to Park Com- 
missioners with endowment. FISHER, twenty acres; 
near North Penn branch, Reading Railway; acquired 
by gift, 1909. HUNTING PARK, with lake, eighty- 
seven acres; crossing Northeast Boulevard at Nice- 
town Lane. LEAGUE ISLAND and United States Navy 
Yard; part of Southern Boulevard. MorRIs, twenty 
acres; extension of Cobb’s Creek Park; beautiful 
forest, watered by Indian Run Creek, acquired by gift, 
1912. PENNYPACK, near mouth of Pennypack Creek 
to Rhawn Street, 532 acres, acquired in 1905; beau- 
tiful fertile valley with stream, widened in places, 
with half ruined mill dams and their waterfalls; quaint 
masonry bridges, either in single arch or series of spans. 
REYNOLDS, Snyder Avenue and Seventeenth Street, 
contains memorial to General John F. Reynolds, a hero 
of Gettysburg; granite shaft, six feet high, with bronze 
medallion of General Reynolds; sculptor, H. K. Bush- 





THE DUCK GIRL 


From the Fountain in Rittenhouse Square 
Paul Manship, Sculptor 








THE COMMONWEALTH 113 


Brown; unveiled, 1915. WISTER’S Woops, contains 
fine trees and profusion of dogwood; forty-four acres; 
East Germantown; bird sanctuary. 

Total amount of space devoted to park, square, and 
boulevard purposes within city limits is 8,037.82 acres. 

THE FAIRMOUNT PARK ART ASSOCIATION organized 
1871, to express high civic ideals, in forms of beauty 
and dignity, synonymous with art, have had large 
mounted photographs of the sculpture in Fairmount 
Park placed in Philadelphia public schools. 


HISTORIC INSTITUTIONS OF PHILADELPHIA 


ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES, on the Parkway at 
Logan Circle, was founded, 1812, in the house of Thomas 
Say, Esq., northwest corner of Second and Market 
Streets. The Museum, for its historic value and 
extent of its collection, is one of the most important in 
existence; arranged in two series, an exhibition for 
the public, and reference for specialists. Library con- 
tains about 60,000 volumes, nearly all on natural 
sciences; several important publications are issued by 
the Academy, and numerous lectures on natural his- 
tory are given annually. Contains portraits of found- 
ers, Thomas Say, Gerard Troost, William Maclure, 
Charles Lesueur, Sir Joseph Banks, Samuel L. Mit- 
chell. All painted by Charles Willson Peale, and hung 
in Peale’s Museum; others by noted artists are Robert 
Bridges, Isaac Lea, Joseph Leidy, by Bernard Uhle; 
Jacob Gilliams by P. F. Rothermel; William Hempbell 
and George Ord by John Neagle; Samuel G. Morton 
by Paul Weber; W. S. W. Ruschenberger by William 
K. Hewitt; Isaac Wistar by Robert Vonnoh; also a 


114 THE COMMONWEALTH 


fine study model of Alexander Wilson, the ornitholo- 
gist, by Charles Grafly, and statuette of same by Alex- 
ander Calder. 

AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, 103 South Fifth 
Street, on lot in State House yard, given the Society 
by the state in 1785; colonial, brick; built, 1789: 
originated in “The Junto” formed by Benjamin 
Franklin, 1727, with the object of mutual improvement; 
received its name 1769, ‘‘The American Philosophical 
Society in Philadelphia, for Promoting Useful Knowl- 
edge.’”’ Benjamin Franklin, then in Europe, sole Ameri- 
can plenipotentiary to France from the thirteen prov- 
inces, was elected first president, and continued until 
his death in 1790. David Rittenhouse, second presi- 
dent, served until his death in 1796; he, with other 
members, successfully observed the Transit of. Venus, 
June 8, 1769, giving the first approximately accurate 
results to the world, in the measurements of the spheres; 
he also constructed an orrery for measuring heavenly 
bodies. Thomas Jefferson, third president, served 
eighteen years, while he was also Vice-President and 
President of the United States, and established its 
library and cabinet. Present President, Dr. W. W. 
Keen. Its membership is world wide. At the meet- 
ings, held regularly, the most advanced thought in 
scientific investigation is presented. The Society now 
owns most of the Franklin papers in existence, recently 
calendared in five volumes by Dr. I. Minis Hays; field 
notes of Lewis and Clark expedition; original copy of 
Penn’s Charter of Privileges, dated 1701; manuscript 
volume, Laws of Pennsylvania prior to 1700, and orig- 
inal broadside, Declaration of Independence. Oil por- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 115 


traits of all its Presidents are here and of many leading 
members; notably, George Washington, by Gilbert 
Stuart; President Jefferson, Benjamin Rush, John 
Vaughn, Caspar Wistar, P. S. DuPonceau, all by 
Thomas Sully; David Rittenhouse and Samuel Vaughn 
by C. W. Peale; Joseph Priestly and Chief Justice 
William Tilghman by Rembrandt Peale; Daniel G. 
Brinton by Thomas Aikens; Professor Alexander 
Dallas Bache by Huntington; General Isaac Wistar 
and Joseph Henry by Bernard Uhle; several notable 
busts of Jefferson, Turgot, and Condorcet by Houdon; 
Benjamin Franklin by Caffieri; and of Lafayette, 
Alexander Hamilton, and Nicholas Biddle. 

THE FRANKLIN INSTITUTE, Seventh Street above 
Chestnut; organized, 1824; open free daily; classic, 
marble, built, 1825; John Haviland, architect. First 
organization in the United States to combine science 
with practice; the lecture course presents, free to the 
public, latest advances in useful arts and sciences, by 
distinguished technologists; also popular illustrated 
addresses on topics of the day; school of Mechanic 
Arts includes instruction in mechanical: and architec- 
tural drawing, said to be one of the most thorough and 
practical in the United States. Library is second to 
none, in extent and completeness, as reference for 
scientific literature; The Franklin Journal, published 
since 1825, monthly, is the only record extant of a 
number of early United States patents. They held 
first exhibition in America of American manufactures, 
1824, in Carpenters’ Hall, and first electrical exhibition 
in America. Portraits include Dr. Benjamin Franklin 
and Matthias W. Baldwin by Sully, Daguerre by Abra- 


9 


116 THE COMMONWEALTH 


ham Whiteside, and bust of Henry Clay by William 
Rush, carved wood. Among relics are typesetting 
and electrical machines, used by Benjamin Franklin, 
and early models of machinery. Will be moved to 
Parkway, Race Street, east of Nineteenth Street. 

- THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY of Pennsylvania, 1800 
Locust Street, in mansion of General Robert Patterson, 
enlarged and made fireproof; founded, 1824. Open 
10.00 A.M. to 6.00 P.M.; July and August, closes at 
4.00 Pp. M.; publishes the Pennsylvania Magazine of 
History and Biography; contains probably the largest 
collection of sources of American history assembled in 
any one place; includes over 100,000 bound books, 
250,000 pamphlets, 7000 volumes of manuscripts and 
some 3500 volumes of newspapers, which are invalu- 
able to the student of colonial and Revolutionary his- 
tory; an INDEX TO THE MARRIAGES AND DEATHS, in 
Dunlap, Claypoole and Poulson’s AMERICAN DAILY 
ADVERTISER, creates a constant demand for the files of 
that newspaper for genealogical purposes; Tom Paine’s 
AMERICAN CRISIS, 1776, and many other rare imprints 
of Americans. The Society has a large and exceedingly 
rich collection of oil paintings; practically all the gov- 
ernors of the state are represented in portraiture on 
its walls, some of the mayors of Philadelphia, and por- 
traits of many Revolutionary officers; a portrait of 
Johannes Kelpius, the ‘Hermit of the Wissahickon, ”’ 
by Christopher Wick, in 1704, is believed to be the 
earliest portrait in oil painted in America; portraits of 
Gustavus Hesselius, his wife, and of Robert Morris, Sr., 
father of the financier, painted by Gustavus Hesselius, 
are of historic interest; a fine collection of original 





GEORGE WASHINGTON 
From the collection in Independence Hall 


Painted by Rembrandt Peale 





THE COMMONWEALTH sO Rey 


portraits, drawings, studies, and manuscripts by Ben- 
jamin West, includes the full length portrait of William 
Hamilton of the Woodlands, and his niece, Mrs. Ann 
Hamilton Lyle, probably the most beautiful of West’s 
portraits in this city; other artists represented are 
Charles Willson Peale, Jacob Eicholtz, Thomas Sully, 
Rembrandt Peale, John Neagle, Charles Gilbert Stuart, 
Robert Edge Pine, John Singleton Copley, Walter G. 
Gould, Henry Inman, Paul Weber, and William E. 
Winner. Among the miniatures are those by John 
Trumbull, James Peale, and Robert Fulton. Marble 
busts are of Washington, Franklin, Milton, Henry 
Clay, Major General Robert Patterson, T. Buchanan 
Read, and Dr. Joseph Parrish. Relics of great historic 
interest include the Ephrata Printing Press, the Charter 
of the City of Philadelphia, and the “Great Belt of 
Wampum,” representing the famous Shackamaxon 
Treaty between William Penn and the Indians, “ never 
signed and never broken.”’ 

MASONIC TEMPLE, Broad and Filbert Streets; Nor- 
man architecture; built, 1870; John T. Windrim, 
architect. Rooms with notable decorations are the 
Egyptian; Oriental, Moorish style from sketches made 
in the Alhambra by John Sartain; and Corinthian, 
copied from well-known standards of architecture, orna- 
ment and familiar figure composition. Museum said 
to be the greatest existing Masonic museum, contains 
aprons of Past Grand Masters of the three oldest 
Lodges in the world; and George Washington’s apron, 
made by Madame Lafayette and presented to him by 
the Marquis, worn by Washington at laying of the 
corner-stone of the Capitol at Washington; an ancient 


118 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Templar Cross, original Crusader’s Cross, found in a 
grave at Tyre, Syria, A.D. 1250; notable jewelers’ art 
of England, Denmark, Germany, France, and Great 
Britain, in badges, including one owned by Napoleon 
I; tablet from Temple of Herod; Sephar Torah, ancient 
scroll of the law found in Germany, over eighteen feet 
long, and from three hundred to five hundred years 
old. Library, Byzantine decorations, with coats of 
arms, of various Guilds and Grand Lodges, in the ceil- 
ing. The Great Hall, or front entrance, contains por- 
traits and paintings, among them ‘‘The Puritans” by 
F. J. Waugh and “A Marine Scene” by Richards; 
Seals of the States of the Union, and paintings portray- 
ing the Pan Athenia, Greek festival. On the second 
floor are the Grand Lodge Room, representing a Corin- 
thian temple, constructed to appear roofless; the col- 
umns, reproductions of the Lysicrates, Athens; mural 
paintings represent the mythology of the Greeks, 
“Weighing of the Soul,’ “Ulysses Passing the Island 
of the Sirens,” “ Birth of Athena,” “Judgment of Paris,” 
“The Golden Fleece.”’ Renaissance Hall, the Taber- 
nacle, contains the Veils of the Temple. Two paint- 
ings at either end represent a High Priest, and a Scribe. 
Ionic Hall and Norman Hall have characteristic orna- 
mentation; Egyptian Hall, decorations are copied 
from Temples of Karnak, Elephanta, Philae, Rameses, 
the Cataracts and Tombs; Ceiling from Temple of 
Denderah; also the scene “ Weighing the Soul,” show- 
ing Egyptian mythology allied with Greek. 

MINT OF UNITED STATES AT PHILADELPHIA, Sixteenth 
and Spring Garden Streets, open daily, except Sundays 
and holidays, 9.00 A. M., to 3.00 P.M. Classic Ionic, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 119 


granite, built, 1901, by the Supervising Architect of 
Washington, D. C. Main lobby finished in Italian 
marble with mosaic ceiling; panels illustrate ancient 
methods and processes of coinage; artist, W. B. Van 
Ingen. Largest and most completely equipped Mint 
in the world. Numismatic room, accessible to the 
public, contains large collection of coins and medals; 
-among them the widow’s mite, found in ruins of Tem- 
ple in Jerusalem. 

PENNSYLVANIA BIBLE SOCIETY, 701 Walnut Street, 
organized in Philadelphia, 1808. First Bible Society 
on American continent; present building erected, 
18538. First President, Right Rev. William White, 
D.D.; first meeting, called by Robert Ralston in his 
own home; object, to further our country’s welfare 
through the Bible, the Book teaching love, unity, and 
forbearance; therefore qualified to band the people 
together and advance national betterment. The 
establishment of such an organization in our land was 
recognized by gift of £200 by the British and Foreign 
Bible Society, London. All denominations have been 
represented in the line of Presidents; during Bishop 
Whitaker’s incumbency the Pennsylvania Bible Society 
was connected with the American Bible Society in 
New York, now the national organization. General 
Lafayette in 1824 was presented by this Society with 
a specially prepared copy of the Scriptures. At the 
centennial of this Society, in 1908, celebrated in the 
Academy of Music, Bishop Ozi W. Whitaker, D.D., 
presided; Right Hon. James Bryce, British Ambassa- 
dor, made an address and presented to Bishop Whitaker 
a beautifully embossed Bible, sent by the British and 


120 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Foreign Bible Society, emblems on the cover were 
from early Christian examples, similar to those on the 
Coronation Bible given to King Edward VII; Ambas- 
sador Bryce was in turn presented with a richly made 
copy of the Scriptures, by the Pennsylvania Society; 
greetings were received from President Theodore 
Roosevelt and Governor Edwin S. Stuart of Pennsyl- 
vania, and from other Bible societies. At the Tercen- 
tenary celebration of King James version of the Eng- 
lise Bible, in the Academy of Music, 1911, James A. 
MacDonald, LL.D., of Toronto, spoke of “The Influ- 
ence of the Bible Upon the Commonwealth.” Letters 
were read from King George V of England, and Presi- 
dent William H. Taft. This Society now circulates 
between two and three hundred thousand Bibles per 
annum, printed in over fifty languages and dialects, for 
Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Delaware, over which 
this house has especial jurisdiction. Any separate 
book of the Bible may be obtained for two cents. 
PHILADELPHIA COMMERCIAL MusEuM, Thirty-fourth 
Street below Spruce, organized, 1894, is the only 
Commercial Museum in the United States; it 
received immense collections from the Chicago ‘“Co- 
lumbian Exposition,” over forty governments being 
represented; many subsequent collections from other 
international expositions; and special exhibits, illus- 
trating the people and products of the world. A free 
reference library is here, of Foreign and American 
Commerce and Travel, which could not be duplicated, 
and courses of free lectures are given which cover sub- 
jects of geographic, commercial, and industrial impor- 
tance, illustrated by colored lantern slides and motion 


THE COMMONWEALTH 121 


pictures; colored slides, with lantern screen and type- 
written lectures, covering same field of geography, 
commerce, and industry, are loaned, free of cost, to 
public-school teachers, in all parts of Pennsylvania; 
they reach tens of thousands; also collections of speci- 
mens, to aid teachers, are sent free of cost, as a gift to 
Pennsylvania public schools; they are arranged, show- 
ing important raw material, and process of manu- 
facture. Manufacturers are furnished with informa- 
tion on all matters pertaining to foreign trade; the 
Foreign Trade Bureau is the acknowledged leader of 
such organizations in the world. 

THE PENNSYLVANIA HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, 1600 
Walnut Street; first in America, organized at meeting 
in Franklin Institute, 1827, to promote horticulture 
and create love for flowers, fruits, and vegetables by 
their cultivation. Minutes of the Society and list of 
membership is complete from formation to present 
time. Lectures by an expert in the various branches 
of horticulture are given at each monthly meeting, 
from November until May. Annual exhibitions are, 
Spring Flower Show before Easter, three days; Peony, 
outdoor grown Rose and Sweet Pea Show in Philadel- 
phia suburbs, from May to July, according to season; 
Dahlia Exhibition, in September; Chrysanthemum, 
early November. The Society has a library of several 
thousand books on agriculture and horticulture, some 
very rare and of great value, and all recommended 
works, of recent publication, in Europe and America. 
“Great gardens educate people in gentility as well as 
in horticulture.” 

WAGNER INSTITUTE, southwest corner of Seventeenth 


122 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Street and Montgomery Avenue; founded by Professor 
William Wagner, 1847. Circulating and reference library 
open daily except Sunday, 9.00 A.M. to 9.00 P. M. 
Museum collections, chiefly in reference to geology 
and mineralogy, open Wednesday and Saturday 
afternoons. Courses of lectures conducted through 
the collegiate year. 


LIBRARIES 


THE LIBRARY COMPANY OF PHILADELPHIA, Locust 
Street, east of Broad; first circulating library in the 
United States; founded by subscription in 1731, by 
Benjamin Franklin and his friends of the Junto Club; 
charter granted by John, Thomas, and Richard Penn 
in 1781; original building, Fifth and Library Streets, 
designed by Dr. Thornton, now the Drexel Building; 
present building, architect, Frank Furness in 1889; is 
a haven for scholars interested in historical research; 
also has important collections of books on costume, 
foreign literature, and complete set of Punch, begun in 
1840; among historic relics are original sketches made 
for Watson’s Annals of Philadelphia; William Penn’s 
desk from Pennsburg; John Dickinson’s reading desk, 
and Heraldic Hatchment, used at his funeral; and the 
André collection. THE RIDGEWAY BRANCH, Broad 
and Christian Streets, founded by bequest of Dr. James 
Rush; architect, Addison Hutton; built, 1878, Doric, 
granite; contains terra cotta bust of Minerva, heroic 
size, probably French work; formerly behind the 
Speaker’s chair in the Continental Congress, Sixth and 
Chestnut Streets, given to the Philadelphia Library, 1783, 
also some articles of Boule, and illuminated manuscripts. 


THE COMMONWEALTH 123 


MERCANTILE LIBRARY, Tenth Street above Chest- 
nut; was established 1821, at 100 Chestnut Street, 
present building, originally a market house, with room 
seventy-four by two hundred feet, and high-arched 
ceiling, makes ideal condition for library work on one 
floor; this is a circulating library of general literature 
for stockholders and members, who only are admitted 
into the reading room, where they have unrestricted 
use of books. 

PHILADELPHIA CITY INSTITUTE, 218 South Nine- 
teenth Street, was founded, 1852, by public-spirited 
citizens, for the purpose of benefiting young men, by 
establishing a free library and night school; library 
free to the public. 

THE FREE LIBRARY OF PHILADELPHIA, northeast cor- 
ner of Thirteenth and Locust Streets, chartered, 1891, 
from endowment fund, left in will by William Pepper, 
M.D., LL.D., for a free library in the city of Philadel- 
phia: opened temporarily in City Hall; removed to 
old Concert Hall, 1217-21 Chestnut Street, now in old 
building of College of Physicians; contains bust of Dr. 
Pepper, by Carl Bitter, and portraits; a large new 
library building is in process of construction on the 
Parkway, Nineteenth and Vine Streets. Growth and 
usefulness, from its inception, are due to the manage- 
ment of the late Dr. John Thomson, Librarian; now 
includes a main building, 26 branches, as well as deposit 
stations and traveling libraries; total circulation for 
home use in 1916, 2,767,310. Hearty codperation 
exists between the public schools and the Free Library; 
school extension lectures are given to the children of 
the grammar grades; and “story hours” are weekly 


124 THE COMMONWEALTH 


events for younger children in the branch libraries. 
Reference and periodical departments contain works 
on art, architecture, and archeology, extremely valu- 
able to the practical student and designer; here are 
facsimiles of many most noted, of early printed books 
and manuscripts, Bible codices, etc.; the “open shelf”’ 
system is used in all departments. Fine buildings 
of the branch libraries have been developed in 
their architectural proportions and decoration, on the 
traditions of French and English Renaissance, or local 
expression of the Georgian; always with top lighting, 
considered extremely important: in the basement of 
the branch at Seventeenth and Spring Garden Streets 
is a large and valuable collection of government docu- 
ments; the Josephine Widener Memorial Branch, 
Broad Street and Girard Avenue, has reference books 
of priceless nature and rare prints, issued before A.D. 
1500. 


HISTORIC MEDICAL COLLEGES, HOSPITALS, 
AND DISPENSARIES 


CHRIST CHURCH HOSPITAL, Wynnefield Station, 
Park Trolley and P. R. R.; Gothic stone building; 
organized, 1772, by Dr. John Kearsley; endowed by 
Jacob Dobson in 1804; is a home for gentlewomen, 
communicants of the Protestant Episcopal Church, in 
the Diocese of Pennsylvania; 150 acres; the Board of 
Managers include three of the vestry, each, of Christ 
Church and St. Peter’s Church. 

COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS OF PHILADELPHIA, Twenty- 
second Street, above Chestnut; founded about 1787, 
and modeled on lines of The Royal College of Physi- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 125 


cians in London. A scientific paper was read by Dr. 
Benjamin Rush at the first meeting. English Renais- 
sance, brick, laid Flemish bond, with basement, cor- 
nices, pilasters, and other trimmings of Indiana lime- 
stone; finest building of a medical society in the world, 
with the largest medical library, save one, in the United 
States, and a fine collection of portraits of presidents 
of the Society, painted by most notable artists. This 
is not a teaching institution, but a Medical Society, 
composed of men of professional distinction. 

HAHNEMANN MEDICAL COLLEGE AND HOSPITAL, 
226 North Broad Street. Oldest homeopathic college 
in the world; founded in 1848; first located at 229 
Arch Street. Consolidated with the Homeopathic 
Medical College in 1869; moved to present site in 1901. 
Its collections include the world-famous dissection of 
entire cerebro-spinal nervous system by Dr. Rufus B. 
Weaver; Dr. Hering’s complete writings of Paracelsus; 
Dr. A. R. Thomas’s library of old and rare anatomical 
books; Hahnemann’s works in the original; it has the 
most complete library of homeopathic literature in 
existence. Portrait of Dr. W. B. VanLennep; artist, 
Henry Rittenberg. 

HOME OF THE MERCIFUL SAVIOUR, 4400 Baltimore 
Avenue, on grounds adjoining the Clarence Clark Park; 
incorporated, 1882; eight houses and chapel, all memo- 
rials, with a summer home at Avon-by-the-Sea. A 
home for crippled, homeless, and helpless children. 
First of its kind in America where vocational training 
is taught. 

HOSPITAL OF THE PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, 
Front Street and Lehigh Avenue. Main group of 


126 THE COMMONWEALTH 


buildings, pure Norman. Founded by the Right Rev. 
Alonzo Potter, Bishop of Pennsylvania, and Dr. Caspar 
Morris, in the ancestral home of two parishioners on 
the present site. Jenny Lind made the first cash con- 
tribution. 

JEFFERSON MEDICAL COLLEGE, Tenth and Sansom 
Streets; founded through the efforts of Dr. George B. 
McClellan; opened, 1825. Present building erected, 
1904. 

JEFFERSON HOSPITAL, Tenth and Sansom Streets; 
last word in hospital construction and equipment; 
originated in the Infirmary established in Jefferson 
College, 1825; present site was bought, 1875, and the 
building opened for use in 1877. Amphitheatre is one 
of the largest in the world. Museum contains casts 
and wax models of interesting cases. Notable por- 
traits in the building are Dr. Forbes, by Aikens; Dr. 
DaCosta, by Vonnoh; Dr. Keen, by Chase; Mr. Wil- 
liam Potter, by Breckenridge; Dr. William Pancoast, 
by Uhle; also bronze bust of Dr. Marion Sims, by C. 
Duboi, Paris, 1876; marble bust of Dr. George 
McClellan; bronze busts of Daniel Webster and 
Thomas Jefferson. 

JEWISH HOSPITAL, Logan Station; Old York Road 
and Olney Avenue, entrance is marked with six granite 
columns from the old United States Mint, formerly on 
Chestnut Street. Includes twenty buildings, on 
twenty-two acres of ground, with modern scientific 
equipment for treatment of sick, care of aged and incur- 
able. A number of art works said to be of considerable 
value are here. 

MUNICIPAL HOSPITAL, Luzerne, near Front Street, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 127 


4000 north; on extensive grounds bisected by a well- 
wooded ravine. Established in 1774, on State Island, 
for the isolation and treatment of contagious diseases; 
probably most complete of its kind in the world. 
PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL, between Spruce and 
Pine Streets, Eighth and Ninth Streets; colonial; 
brick; with great trees and beautiful open spaces 
in the grounds. First hospital in the United States, 
founded, 1751, by Dr. Thomas Bond and Benjamin 
Franklin. Corner-stone on present site, laid, 1755, 
can still be seen; part of this land belonged to William 
Penn, which he donated. In 1756, here was the 
first clinical amphitheatre in America. Noah Web- 
ster delivered a lecture for the benefit of the hos- 
pital in 1786; other benefits received about this time 
were, a charity sermon preached by Rev. George White- 
field in St. Paul’s Protestant Episcopal Church; and a 
painting by Benjamin West, “Christ Healing the Sick,” 
made while he was in London; the English refused to 
allow the original to come to America; they used it to 
start the National Gallery; so a replica was painted; 
it now hangs in the hall; for years the hospital made 
money by charging a fee to see it. At the Pine Street 
front is a leaden statue of William Penn, presented by 
his grandson, John Penn, from Wycombe Park, Bucks, 
England, estate of Lord le Dispenser. Benjamin 
Franklin was the first Secretary and the second Presi- 
dent; his minute books are still to be seen there, with 
clear fine handwriting; and interesting letters and 
documents of colonial and Revolutionary times. 
PHILADELPHIA ALMSHOUSE AND GENERAL HOSPITAL, 
Thirty-fourth and Pine Streets, Blockley; first alms- 


128 THE COMMONWEALTH 


house was opened in 1713 by the Quakers; not munici- 
pal, open only to their sect; located on Walnut, between 
Third and Fourth Streets. First city almshouse was 
established in 1732; second in 1767; in 1772 it was the 
most extensive hospital on the continent. During the 
Revolutionary War, wounded were cared for here. In 
Longfellow’s poem, Evangeline becomes a Sister of 
Mercy and ministers here to the yellow fever sufferers 
in Philadelphia. Present institution built, 1834; archi- 
tecture of administration building, Corinthian, marble. 
The Medical Department antedates the Pennsylvania 
Hospital. 

PHILADELPHIA COLLEGE OF PHARMACY, 145 North 
Tenth Street; established, 1821, at meeting in Car- 
penters’ Hall: consists of five large buildings connected 
by a central building, Romanesque, Pompeian brick 
and Seneca red stone; largest and first institution in 
the United States devoted to pharmaceutical and 
chemical instruction. Laboratories and equipment are 
without a peer, for most advanced training of men and 
women as pharmacists and chemists. Museum has a 
large number of paintings of famous scientists, also 
the Martindale Herbarium of over 200,000 plant speci- 
mens. Library has about 14,000 volumes; around the 
gallery hang portraits of men who have given largely 
of their time and substance to the development and 
advancement of the College, and to the progress and 
betterment of the city; artists represented, Charles 
Willson Peale, Hugh H. Breckenridge, Henry R. Ritten- 
berg. Collection of photographs of pharmaceutical 
subjects, many rare and very valuable. 

PRESTON RETREAT, Twentieth and Hamilton Streets, 


THE COMMONWEALTH 129 


on site of William Penn’s residence; classic, marble: 
founded by Dr. James Preston in 1837, for married 
women of good character and indigent circumstances, 
about to be confined. One of the best equipped in the 
world. 

St. JOSEPH’S HOSPITAL, Girard Avenue and Sixteenth 
Street; colonial, brick. Established first in the parish 
of St. Joseph’s Church, near Fourth and Walnut 
Streets, for Irish famine refugees who became ill on 
overcrowded and unventilated ships. Incorporated, 
1849. Was third general hospital in Philadelphia. 

WILLS’ HOSPITAL, Eighteenth and Race Streets, 
facing Logan Circle; classic, marble; founded, 1832, 
by James Wills, Jr., for the indigent blind and lame. 
Now one of the best in the world as an institution for 
the study and practice of ophthalmy. 

WOMEN’S HOSPITAL OF PHILADELPHIA, North Col- 
lege Avenue. Oldest and largest hospital in the world 
for women and children: organized, 1861. Its motto 
is, “Woman’s work for woman by women.” 

WoOMAN’S MEDICAL COLLEGE OF PHILADELPHIA, 
Twenty-first Street and North College Avenue; first 
college in the world organized for the education of 
women for the medical profession. Incorporated, 
1850. Dr. Ann Preston, of first class to be graduated, 
was the founder of the Women’s Hospital. Contains 
bas-relief tablet, “‘The Woman Physician’’; sculptor, 
Miss Clara Hill. 


HISTORIC MUSICAL INTERESTS OF 
PHILADELPHIA 


ACADEMY OF Music, Broad and Locust Streets. 
Seats 3000; established, 1857, for representation of 


130 THE COMMONWEALTH 


operas in English, and distinguished entertainments; 
opened with a magnificent ball, such as was never 
before witnessed in Philadelphia; now home of the 
Philadelphia Orchestra, which has had three con- 
ductors since its organization in 1900, Fritz Scheel, 
Carl Pohlig, and Leopold Stokowski; all of whom 
have brought the splendid body of players to a high 
standard of musical excellence. Dr. Stokowski has 
said of the Academy: ‘‘The architect must have had 
great knowledge of the laws governing sound, as the 
volumes are marvelously arranged.”’ 

The Mahler Symphony was given here in 1916, first 
time in America, Stokowski, director, with chorus of 
- 1000 voices. A memorial to Siegfried Behrens will be 
in wall of lobby, portrait figure in relief, with Muse 
of Music holding laurel wreath, Cararra marble, seven 
feet high, on base of dark marble; sculptor, Guiseppe 
Donato. 

THE MMAENNERCHOR SOCIETY, 1643 North Broad 
Street. A men’s chorus of active and associate mem- 
bers, founded, 1885, by Philip Mathias Wolsieffer, 
director for eighteen years. The Maennerchor was 
the first men’s chorus in America; they have sung for 
twenty-eight years at opening of the German-American 
Charity Ball, in the Academy of Music. They sang 
with the Vocal Union, choral parts of Beethoven’s 
Ninth Symphony in 1874, first time given in America, 
William W. Wolsieffer conducting. Won three prizes 
at National Saengerfest in Brooklyn, Baltimore, and 
Newark. 

MUSICAL FUND HALL, Locust Street, west of Eighth 
Street, built, 1824. Acoustic properties unsurpassed. 


THE COMMONWEALTH ao. 


Jenny Lind sang here. Now used by a Labor Organ- 
ization. 

Philadelphia has over two hundred singing societies, 
and a long list of very prominent musical organizations. 

THE PRESSER FOUNDATION OF PHILADELPHIA, organ- 
ized 1916, is the first institution of its kind to be estab- 
lished in America. All of its resources have been given 
by Mr. Theodore Presser. It includes a Home for Re- 
tired Music Teachers, suggested by the Founder’s 
visit to the Verdi ‘‘Casa di Riposo per Musicisti,’”’ in 
Milan in 1899. Scholarships to institutions of learn- 
ing, the students to be selected by the President, and 
Directors of the Musical Departments, and emergency 
aid relief to musicians. 


THE UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA AND 
OTHER HISTORIC SCHOOLS 


THE UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA, Thirty-fourth 
Street and Woodland Avenue, with a campus of one 
hundred and seventeen acres along the west bank of 
the Schuylkill River and equipment of seventy build- 
ings; originated in the Charity School, organized, 
1740, at Fourth and Arch Streets; made an academy 
through the interest of Benjamin Franklin, in 1749; 
chartered, ‘‘The College of Philadelphia,” with power 
to confer honorary and collegiate degrees, being the 
third oldest college in the United States; in 1799 was 
organized and chartered as “The University of the 
State of Pennsylvania,’ making it the first institution 
in the United States designated a university; also the 
first to establish professional schools distinct from the 
college. The School of Medicine was added in 1765, 


10 


132 THE COMMONWEALTH 


and has always maintained the most advanced require- 
ments and highest standards of scholarship for gradua- 
tion; it was founded by Dr. John Morgan, who held 
the first medical professorship in America; he was 
physician in chief of the Continental Army, 1775-77. 
The first American University Professorship in Law 
was established here, 1790; James Wilson held the 
position; President Washington attended his lectures. 
In 1799, the University conferred on Washington the 
degree of LL.D., and later, in 1826, set apart his 
birthday as University Day, on which honorary degrees 
are conferred, with appropriate exercises. Nine sons 
of this University signed the Declaration of Independ- 
ence; seven, the Constitution of the United States; 
twenty-one were members of the Continental Congress; 
nine, in the United States Senate; eight were Attorney- 
Generals of states or of the United States; six were 
Justices of the Supreme Court; seven, Governors of 
states; and many others were Officers in the Army 
and men in public life, who had received their educa- 
tion in the old building, Fourth and Arch Streets, 
before 1800. , 

In 1802 the University was moved to Ninth and 
Chestnut Streets, and occupied the presidential man- 
sion, now site of the Post Office; in 1872, moved to 
the present site in West Philadelphia. In 1912, under 
the administration of Provost Edgar Fahs Smith, 
The University Extension Courses were formed, and 
the college made into three departments with a dean 
for each. The COLLEGE, founded 1740, includes 
School of Arts; Summer School; College Courses for 
Teachers; Courses in Biology and Music. THE 


THE COMMONWEALTH 133 


TOWNE SCIENTIFIC SCHOOL, founded, 1875, includes, 
Architecture, Chemistry, Science, Technology, Mechan- 
eal, Electrical and Civil Engineering. WHARTON 
SCHOOL OF FINANCE AND COMMERCE, founded 1881, 
includes, School of Accounts and Finance in Philadel- 
phia; and the Extension Schools of Finance and 
Accounts in Scranton and Wilkes-Barre. 

DEPARTMENT OF Music, through the unceasing and 
wise direction of Dr. Hugh A. Clarke, has graduated 
hundreds of students in music, after a four years’ course 
in Harmony, Counterpoint, Composition, and Orches- 
tration. The degree of Bachelor of Music has been 
conferred on many who qualified to meet the require- 
ments. THE GRADUATE SCHOOL was founded, 1882; 
courses lead to degrees of master of arts, and doctor of 
philosophy. 

Other Departments are, the LAW SCHOOL, Thirty- 
fourth and Chestnut Streets; building dedicated 
University Day, 1900, architects, Cope & Steward- 
son, style similar to the English Renaissance as de- 
developed by Sir Christopher Wren; Indiana lime- 
stone and dull red brick; contains the Biddle Law 
Library, 55,000 volumes; The Black Memorial Col- 
lection of English Legal Engravings, most complete in 
America; several original documents by Benjamin 
Franklin, George Washington and other colonial men; 
many objects of historical interest to members of the 
bar; a fine collection of portraits include those of 
Algernon Sydney Biddle, by Cecilia Beaux; Charles 
Chauncey, by Henry Inman; Thomas McKean, 
LL.D., by Robert W. Vonnoh; Richard Coxe McMur- 
trie, LL.D., by William M. Chase; James Wilson, 


134 THE COMMONWEALTH 


LL.D., by Albert Rosenthal, from a miniature; mar- 
ble busts of Daniel Webster and Jeremiah Sullivan; 
tablets and memorials. | 

LABORATORY OF CHEMISTRY, Thirty-fourth and 
Spruce Streets; dedicated, 1894; shows the broad pro- 
jecting eaves of brick architecture in the Italian 
Renaissance; architects, Cope & Stewardson; it is 
one of the best equipped chemical laboratories in 
America. The ENGINEERING building, Thirty-third 
and Locust Streets; dedicated, 1906; Georgian, dark 
brick with limestone trimmings, architects, Cope & 
Stewardson; houses the civil, electrical, and mechani- 
cal engineering departments; best equipped of its kind. 
In its collection of portraits is that of John Henry 
Towne, by William M. Hunt. 

LABORATORY OF HYGIENE, includes the Psycho- 
logical Clinic; Department of physical education; and 
Franklin Field, Thirty-third and Spruce Streets, 
dedicated, 1895, seating capacity of the stadium about 
62,000, was for many years scene of annual football 
between the United States Military and Naval Acad- 
emies; gymnasium, facing Thirty-third Street, erected, 
1908, English Collegiate, Gothic, dark red brick, with 
black headers laid in Flemish bond, terra cotta and 
Indiana limestone trimmings, floors and columns con- 
crete; comprises Weightman Hall, exercising rooms, 
and a large swimming pool; architects, Frank Miles 
Day & Brother; in front on the terrace is statue of 
Benjamin Franklin at seventeen, as he first entered 
Philadelphia in 1732; sculptor, Dr. R. Tait McKenzie, 
pedestal designed by Professor Paul P. Cret. In the 
entrance is bronze tablet in relief, full figure portrait of 


THE COMMONWEALTH 135 


Charles S. Bayne in baseball uniform, “1895 College,”’ 
sculptor, R. Tait McKenzie; also other memorials. 

DEPARTMENT OF ARCHASOLOGY, founded, 1889, by 
the late Provost William Pepper, M.D., LL.D., 
museum, Spruce Street, near Thirty-fourth Street, 
open free daily, 10.00 A. M. to 5.00 Pp. M.; Sunday 2.00 
to 6.00 Pp. M. The treatment of this building and the 
courtyard, begun 1897, is among the most successful 
works of architecture in this country; it was inspired 
by the round, arched, brick architecture of Northern 
Italy, about twelfth century; details especially sug- 
gesting the old Church of San Stefano in Bologna; 
roof of Spanish tiles gives added “charm; architects 
in codperation, Wilson Eyre, Jr., Cope & Steward- 
son, Frank Miles Day & Brother. Has valuable 
collections illustrating the history of mankind; Egyp- 
tian, Cretan, Etruscan, and Babylonian antiqui- 
ties, famous tablets from Nippur, and the Dillwyn- 
Parish collection of Greco-Roman papyri, among 
which are the oldest known fragments of the Gospel of 
St. Matthew. During 1916, the museum maintained 
four expeditions in the field: in Egypt, China, Siberia, 
and one on the Amazon, which will return with collec- 
tions they have gathered. Among the portraits in 
the museum are, Mrs. William D. Frismuth, donor of 
collection of musical instruments, and Franklin Hamil- 
ton Cushing, ethnologist, both by Thomas Eakins; 
bronze statue of Dr. William Pepper, by Carl Bitter, 
is in the Italian garden; free public illustrated lec- 
tures are given Saturdays, 3.30 Pp. M., from November 
to March. 

LIBRARY, founded, 1749, with volumes bearing acces- 


136 THE COMMONWEALTH 


sion dates of 1749, given by Benjamin Franklin; First 
Provost, William Smith; Louis XVI of France; and 
others, now contains about 450,000 volumes, and 
many special collections; present building dedicated, 
1891, Thirty-fourth and Locust Streets, red brick, 
sandstone, and terra cotta, Furness, Evans & Com- 
pany, architects; among the portraits here are Benja- 
min Franklin, LL.D., replica, by Thomas Gainsborough, 
R.A., of his original; William Wordsworth, poet, 
from life, by Henry Inman in 1844; Joseph G. Rosen- 
garten, LL.D., by B. A. Osnis, and the entire class of 
1811 minus one, in silhouette, cut at Peale’s Museum; 
here also is the famous orrery and large clock made by 
David Rittenhouse for this university. 

HOUSTON HALL, memorial to Henry Howard Hous- 
ton, Jr., class of ’78, Spruce Street above Thirty-fourth. 
North Conshohocken and Indiana limestone; archi- 
tect’s design of two students of the School of Architec- 
ture, developed by Frank Miles Day; was planned 
by Provost C. C. Harrison, to weld the cosmopolitan 
body of students into one democratic brotherhood, 
which has now become a world-wide movement in 
college life; contains trophy rooms, pool tables, and 
publication office of ‘Old Penn,” until 1918 the official 
weekly; courses of Free Public Lectures are given by 
members of the Faculty, and men from other American 
and foreign Universities; services by eminent minis- 
ters are conducted each Sunday morning. Among the 
many portraits in Houston Hall are, Henry Howard 
Houston, Jr., by Cecilia Beaux; David Rittenhouse, 
by Charles Willson Peale; Henry Reed, and Henry 
Vethake, both by Sully. 


THE COMMONWEALTH 137 


THE UNIVERSITY HospPITAL, Thirty-fourth and Spruce 
Streets; founded by the late Provost Dr. William 
Pepper, 1874, covers two city blocks; medical staff 
consists of more than one hundred and fifty physi- 
cians and one hundred nurses; the Surgical Building 
erected, 1914; Jacobean style, brick and limestone, 
architects, Brockie & Hastings, contains marble bust 
on pedestal of Dr. William Pepper, Provost, 1881-94; 
bronze mural tablet with portrait of late Dr. John H. 
Musser, sculptor, Dr. R. Tait McKenzie; and many 
bronze memorials. The MEDICAL LABORATORY, dedi- 
cated, 1904, on Hamilton Walk, English Collegiate, 
of Middle seventeenth century, hard burnt brick 
and buff Indiana limestone; architects, Cope & 
Stewardson; interior finished in white Italian marble; 
is one of the largest and best equipped in America. 
Contains nearly complete collection of oil portraits 
of staff of physicians from 1765, including painting 
of David Hayes Agnew, M.D., LL.D., at the close 
of a clinic in Medical Hall, all the subordinate figures 
in the group are likenesses, among them, Dr. J. Wil- 
liam White, Dr. Joseph Leidy, Jr., and the artist, 
Thomas Eakins; Professor John Morgan, founder of 
the Medical School, after the original by Angelica 
Kauffman; Professor William Osler, LL.D., and De 
Forest Willard, by W. M. Chase; Professor Philip 
Syng Physick, first American to be elected member of 
Royal Academy, France, by Henry Inman, from life in 
1836; Professor Benjamin Rush, by John Neagle; Dr. 
J. William White, by John S. Sargent; and bronze 
bust on pedestal of Dr. Joseph Leidy. 

THE WISTAR INSTITUTE OF ANATOMY AND BIOLOGY, 


138 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Thirty-sixth Street and Woodland Avenue, founded, 
1892, for extension of Wistar and Homer Museums; 
first university institute exclusively for research in 
anatomy and biology, buff brick and light terra cotta, 
fireproof, built, 1808, architects, George W. and W. D. 
Hewitt; in 1905 this institute became the clearing 
house for anatomy in America, and in 1906 was appoin- 
ted Central United States Institute for Brain Investiga- 
tion; the five principal independent anatomical journals 
of the United States are published here. Open to the 
public daily, except Sundays and holidays, 9.00 A. M. 
to 4.00 P. M., Saturdays, 9.00 A.M. to 12.00 mM. Con- 
tains bronze bust, sculptor, Samuel Murray, 1890, of 
General Isaac J. Wistar, Sc.D., who gave the building 
and endowment; in bronze vase are his ashes; also in 
three bronze vases are the ashes of Joseph Leidy, M.D., 
LL.D., John Adams Ryder, Ph.D., and Professor 
Edward Drinker Cope. Opposite is THE ARCHITEC- 
TURAL SCHOOL, Thirty-sixth Street and Woodland 
Avenue, second only in importance and numbers to 
the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Paris: the esprit de corps of 
faculty and students is most pronounced; students 
and graduates, of late years, have won more competi- 
tive prizes, and scholarships, than those of all other 
American schools combined. The four years’ course 
leads to degree; special two years’ course, and sum- 
mer six weeks’ course. 

THE BOTANIC GARDENS, established, 1894, face 
Hamilton Walk, open to visitors from sunrise to sun- 
set; greenhouses filled with rare plants from all the 
world; lily and lotus ponds are attractive feature of the 
campus. Open-air plays are given here, The Viva- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 139 


rium, established 1898, has fresh and salt water aquaria, 
first vivarium ever connected with any educational 
institution. ZOOLOGICAL LABORATORY, on Hamilton 
Walk and Thirty-ninth Street, built, 1910; architects, 
Cope & Stewardson, hard burnt brick and Indiana 
limestone, English Collegiate, of middle seventeenth 
century; considered best working laboratory for its pur- 
pose in this country, contains many famous collections. 

VETERINARY BUILDING AND HOSPITAL, Thirty-ninth 
Street and Woodland Avenue, constructed about a 
square courtyard; one of best equipped of its kind. 
Architects, Cope & Stewardson, English Collegiate, 
seventeenth century, hard burnt yellow brick and lime- 
stone trimmings, roof green slate, built, 1906-07. 

SCHOOL OF DENTISTRY, “Thomas W. Evans Museum 
and Dental Institute,’ Fortieth and Spruce Streets, 
Collegiate Gothic, time of Henry VIII, hard burnt red 
and black brick and Indiana limestone, built, 1914, 
architect, John T. Windrim; the grotesques ornament- 
ing the band courses, while in the spirit of the Middle 
Ages, are modern in subject and caricature; most com- 
plete edifice in the world, devoted to the science of 
dentistry. Museum contains the priceless Evans 
collection, gifts from the nobility of Europe, portraits 
and busts of Dr. Evans. 

HENRY PuHipPS INSTITUTE for the study, preven- 
tion, and treatment of tuberculosis, founded, 1903, 
northeast corner of Seventh and Lombard Streets; 
facing Starr Garden Park, a civic center of the Play- 
grounds Commission; is colonial style, designed by 
Grosvenor Atterbury, New York, brick trimmed with 
white marble. 


140 THE COMMONWEALTH 


FLOWER ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY at Llanerch 
on West Chester Pike, architect, Edgar V. Seeler, 
1895. Open to visitors every Thursday evening 
during collegiate year, 7.00 P.M. to 10.00 P. M.; is 
equipped with an 18 inch equatorial telescope, and 
other instruments of latest and most approved design. 

DORMITORY HovussEs, Jacobean, thirty in number, 
begun in 1895, suggest the Oxford and Cambridge col- 
leges; carved grotesque bosses on main cornices are 
reminiscent of the Gothic period; they are amusing, 
and display an unusual amount of imagination; mate- 
rial, hard burnt yellow brick and Indiana limestone; 
architects, Cope & Stewardson; entrance through two 
gateways known as Memorial Tower, gift of the 
Alumni, dedicated in 1901, in memory of University of 
Pennsylvania men who served in the Spanish-American 
War, corner-stone was laid by General Miles, in 1900; 
and the Provosts’ Tower, named as memorial to the 
Provosts of the University of Pennsylvania, whose 
twelve names are carved on medallions, from William 
Smith to Charles Custis Harrison. 

WILLIAM PENN CHARTER SCHOOL, 8 to 10 South 
Twelfth Street, was planned in 1684 at a meeting of 
the Provincial Council, Governor Penn presiding. In 
1689, William Penn, writing from England to Thomas 
Lloyd, President of Council, instructed him to set up 
a “Public Grammar School in Philadelphia,” the 
school was incorporated in 1698, and George Keith 
engaged as head master, 1699. In 1701, William Penn, 
while on a visit to America, granted the school a charter 
from his own hand; on the same day he chartered the 
city itself. This school is the oldest existing char- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 141 


tered school in America; a second and more liberal 
charter was granted, 1708, and a third charter, under 
which the school is still conducted, 1711; the originals 
of all three of these charters are in the school’s posses- 
sion. The school will be moved to Pinehurst, the 
Waln estate, twenty-two acres on School Lane near 
Wissahickon Avenue, Germantown, acquired by gift; 
field now used for their athletic sports, surface having 
been adapted for the purpose by the Newhall Engineer- 
ing Company, Philadelphia, who made there a football 
oval; an eighteen foot quarter-mile track; and an 
eighteen foot 220 yard straightway; drainage of these 
tracks and oval is such, that in eight years, not one 
scheduled contest has been postponed on account of 
condition of the ground. 

CENTRAL HIGH SCHOOL, Broad and Green Streets; 
established, 1886. In view of the increasing income 
and diminishing debt of the nation, the United States 
Congress in 1836 passed a law, authorizing the distri- 
bution of surplus revenue among the states, to be dis- 
posed of as their legislatures might enact; Pennsyl- 
vania devoted her share, over $70,000, to public 
education, and the controllers erected a high school in 
Philadelphia, which was completed, 1838, east side of 
Juniper Street, below Market Street. In 1853, the 
original building was sold; present structure occupied 
in 1900. Conferring of academic degrees dates from 
1849. Memorial window to Edward T. Steel in assem- 
bly room. 

GIRARD COLLEGE, College and Corinthian Avenues, 
for the care and training of orphan boys; founded by 
Stephen Girard, a native of France, who at his death, 


142 THE COMMONWEALTH 


in 1831, left his estate for this purpose. Main build- 
ing, architect, Thomas Ustick Walter, architect of the 
Capitol at Washington, probably the finest architec- 
tural specimen in Philadelphia, modeled after a Greek 
temple, white marble, covers an area of 34,344 feet, 
exclusive of eleven marble steps by which it is ap- 
proached on every side; a colonnade of 34 Corinthian 
columns aid in supporting the marble roof, each 
column 6 feet in diameter and 55 feet high, the diameter 
of corner columns being increased 11% inches to over- 
come apparent reduction of size from their insulated 
position; bases 9 feet 3 inches in diameter, 3 feet 2 
inches high, capitals 8 feet 6 inches high and 9 feet 4 
inches wide; each shaft, as well as the bases, consists 
of a single piece, without vertical joints; at each end 
of the three story building is a vestibule, the ceilings 
of which are supported by eight columns, whose shafts 
are composed of a single stone; corner-stone was laid 
July 4, 1884, and the completed building transferred 
to the Board of Directors, 1847. In the first vestibule 
is white marble sarcophagus, with body of Stephen 
Girard, and his statue by Gevelot; the memorial room 
contains portrait of Girard, by J. R. Lambdin, copy 
from posthumous portrait by Bass Otis in Masonic 
Temple; interesting collection of furniture; pictures; 
china; silverware, and fine marble bust of Napoleon I, 
by Canova, presented to Girard by Joseph Bonaparte. 

Present capacity, 1520 boys, admitted from six to 
ten years of age and graduated fourteen to sixteen 
years of age, preference of admission is given to those 
born within the old Philadelphia city limits, next in 
consideration those born in Pennsylvania, and third 


THE COMMONWEALTH 143 


group, boys born in the cities of New York and New 
Orleans. There are several hundred on waiting list. 

Equipment comprises ten white marble buildings 
for school and house purposes, chapel seating 1600, and 
other buildings, also plant for heat, light, and power, 
inclosed on forty acres with a ten-foot high stone wall. 
Endowment now about $29,000,000. Soldiers’ and 
sailors’ monument on campus, in memory of the gradu- 
ates who served in the Civil War; sculptor, J. Massey 
Rhind. Clergymen are excluded by Girard’s will, 
“that the boys might be kept free from denomina- 
tional controversies.” Bible has always had a fore- 
most place in the teaching of the college; Chapel speak- 
ers are laymen of prominence in the professional and 
business world. 


OTHER PLACES OF HISTORIC INTEREST | 


RESIDENCE OF JOHN FITCH in 1791, 462 North Second 
Street; in 1790 John Fitch’s steamboats made regular 
trips; Petty’s Island was used as a port for the Perse- 
verance, one of the five steamboats that Fitch con- 
structed for use on the Delaware, before Robert Fulton 
placed his Clermont on the Hudson; it was blown up 
at moorings on this island. RESIDENCE OF EDGAR 
ALLAN PoE from 1848-44 west side of Seventh Street, 
above Spring Garden (old number 234). BusSH HILL 
MANSION, on west side of Seventeenth Street below 
Spring Garden, erected by Andrew Hamilton in 1740; 
front lawn sloping to Vine Street, was scene of a Fourth 
of July celebration held in 1788, after the last of the 
nine states that made the Constitution effective came 
in; the procession dispersed here at “Union Green,” 


144 THE COMMONWEALTH 


James Wilson, a signer of the Constitution, delivered 
an oration, and there were other ceremonies. SPRIN- 
GETTSBURY, built 1736-89, called after the name of 
William Penn’s first wife, manor-house of the Penns; 
burnt in 1808; part of site is now occupied by the 
Preston Retreat, Eighteenth Street below Spring Gar- 
den. Northeast corner of Broad and Walnut Streets, 
site of VAUXHALL GARDEN; a ball was given here in 
honor of General Andrew Jackson after his victory at 
New Orleans, January 8, 1814. PENN TREATY PARK, 
Beach Street and East Columbia Avenue. KNIGHT’S 
WHARF at edge of Green Street, in Northern Liber- 
ties; near here Poole’s bridge crossed Pegg’s Run at 
Front Street, it was named after one Poole, a Friend, 
whose mansion was here, recalls the Mischianza invi- 
tation: ‘‘The favor of your meeting the subscribers 
to the Mischianza at Knight’s Wharf, near Poole’s 
Bridge, tomorrow at half past three, is desired. (Signed) 
Henry Calder. Sunday, 17th May, 1778. For river 
parade to the Garden.” Preparations for this magnifi- 
cent entertainment, the erection of numerous and vast 
pavilions around the Wharton mansion, and their 
decorations by André, Delancey, and other gallant 
officers, was the talk of the town for weeks. The 
Wharton mansion, Walnut Grove, used by the family 
in summer, was where Fifth Street, near Washington 
Avenue, is now; the British had possession there in 
the spring of 1778; Miss Peggy Shippen’s portrait 
was sketched by Major André in Mischianza costume. 
Philadelphia then excelled all other colonial cities in 
size, culture, and importance. SOUTHWARK SHOT 
TOWER, built, 1809, Carpenter Street between Front 


THE COMMONWEALTH 145 


and Second, first plant in the United States which 
made bullets. SITE oF HILL’s SHIPYARD, Queen Street 
wharf below Cathrine Street. Original Swedish 
houses on both sides of Queen Street below Front. 
Site of United States first navy yard, 1201 South Front 
Street. | 

Obelisk northeast corner Twenty-third and Market 
Streets gives a history of the old Market Street bridge, 
built 1801-05; inscriptions to be recut. 


HISTORIC GERMANTOWN 


Colonial and Revolutionary suburb, six miles from 
Philadelphia; founded in 16838 by Francis Daniel Pas- 
torius from Sommerhausen, Germany, one of the best 
educated men in the Colonies; he had received the 
degree of Doctor of Laws at Nuremberg; was a mem- 
ber of the Assembly from 1687-91. Earliest settlers 
were Friends and German Religionists, highly culti- 
vated, and skilled in weaving, paper-making, printing, 
and other trades. First railroad in America to use 
steam was the Philadelphia and Reading to German- 
town in 1832. First successful locomotive made in 
America was Matthias Baldwin’s “Old Ironsides,”’ 
used on this road, only taken out in fair weather. 
GERMANTOWN AVENUE follows an old Indian trail, 
made a turnpike in 1800, on which are still many his- 
toric houses of quaint colonial architecture; rough 
native stone with overhanging hipped roofs and a pro- 
jecting pent, over doorstep. STENTON, built in 1728, 
brick, colonial, near Wayne Junction, residence of 
James Logan, Secretary to William Penn, 1727-34; 


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THE COMMONWEALTH 147 


President of Council, Chief Justice of the Supreme 
Court of Pennsylvania; his guests were Franklin, Jef- 
ferson, Madison, Monroe, Lafayette, John Randolph; 
occupied by General Washington, August, 1777, on 
way to the Battle of Brandywine; by General Howe 
during Battle of Germantown; Washington dined 
here with Dr. Logan, July, 1787, while the Constitu- 
tional Convention was in session. There is a curious 
underground passage from cellar to stable; the stream 
on the place was named “ Wingohocking”’ for an Indian 
chief, who himself took the name of Logan; now in 
charge of the Pennsylvania Society of Colonial Dames, 
who have refurnished it with original pieces and relics 
of the Logan family; open daily 1.00 P. M. to 6.00 P. M., 
excepting Sunday and Thursday. Admission fee, 
fifteen cents. Northwest corner of Apsley Street and 
Germantown Avenue, LOUDOUN, built in 1801, resi- 
dence of Thomas Armat, now occupied by Armat and 
Logan descendants; many wounded Americans died 
and were buried here in Battle of Germantown. 4825 
Germantown Avenue, house built by Christopher 
Ottinger in 1781; walls two feet thick; rafters unhewn 
trees; his son, born here in 1804, was Captain Douglas 
Ottinger in the United States Revenue Marine; he 
invented the Ottinger life car which, in 1849, equipped 
eight life-saving stations on the New Jersey coast. 
4810 Germantown Avenue, site of Wagner house, built, 
1747; used as hospital after the Battle of Germantown, 
stable doors were taken for operating tables; many 
died and were buried in a trench in the rear. 4908 
Germantown Avenue, built in 1760, was bought, 1828, 
by John S. Henry, whose son, Alexander Henry, was 


148 THE COMMONWEALTH 


three times Mayor of Philadelphia and a member of 
Congress. 

Northeast corner of East Logan and Germantown 
Avenue, Lower or Hoop’s BURIAL GROUND, pre- 
sented to borough in 1693 by Jan Streepers; John 
F. Watson placed stones over graves of General Agnew 
and Colonel Bird, British officers killed in Battle of 
Germantown; see Burial Grounds. 5109 German- 
town Avenue, site of Thones Kunder’s home, part of 
original north wall is still standing; first meetings of 
the Society of Friends in Germantown were held here; 
and a public protest against slavery was made in 1688; 
the paper, written and signed by Pastorius and three 
others, was forwarded to the Yearly Meeting in Bur- 
lington; Thones Kunder, by trade a dyer, was the 
ancestor of the Conard and Conrad families, also of 
Sir Samuel Cunard, founder of the Cunard Steamship 
Line; he died in 1729. 

South side of Manheim Street, west of Germantown 
Avenue, residence of Jacques Marie Roset, who came 
to America in 1792, first to introduce the tomato 
plant into Germantown; his granddaughter was the 
wife of Anthony J. Drexel, Esq.; opposite, 153 Man- 
heim Street was Taggert’s field; British Infantry 
encamped here. Manheim Street, corner of Morris 
Street, GERMANTOWN CRICKET CLUB, organized in 
1854; William Rotch Wister, was the first American 
to study the science and points of the play, and teach 
it; he was known as “The father of American cricket”’; 
first American field, ‘‘ Belfield Cricket Club,” Stenton 
and Olney Avenues, was the Wister pasture and 
orchard; second club, “Young America,” field, rear 


THE COMMONWEALTH 149 


of residence of Thomas A. Newhall, Esq., Manheim 
and Hansberry Streets; they consolidated in 1889. 
Queen Lane, west of Pulaski Avenue, site of Potter’s 
Field in 1765, a burial place for ‘‘all strangers, negroes 
and mulattoes as die in any part of Germantown.” 
5106 Germantown Avenue, residence of Commodore 
James Barron, Commandant Philadelphia Navy Yard 
in 1842; Captain of the Chesapeake, when captured 
by the British ship Leopard; in 1807 he killed Com- 
modore Stephen Decatur in a duel at Bladensburg, 
Maryland. 5157 Germantown Avenue, residence 
and printing office, now altered, of Philip R. Freas; 
publisher of The Village Telegraph, in 1830; later 
The Germantown Telegraph. ST. STEPHEN’S METHO- 
DIST CHURCH, opened in 1856; site of Frederick 
Fraley’s carpenter shop; gun carriages were made 
here for the American Army; Washington was a 
frequent visitor. 5140 Germantown Avenue, resi- 
dence of GILBERT STUART, 1794-95; the barn was used 
as his studio; portrait of Washington, now in the Athe- 
naeum of Boston, was painted here; also a full length 
portrait of “Cornplanter,” the Indian chief. 5253-55 
Germantown Avenue, formerly one dwelling, OWEN 
WISTER, novelist, was born here July 14, 1860, son of 
Dr. Owen J. and Sarah Butler Wister; his mother was 
a daughter of Pierce and Fanny Kemble Butler. 5219 
Germantown Avenue, residence of John Bringhurst, 
carriage maker, 1775-95; a founder of the Germantown 
Academy; in 1780 he made a “chariot” for General 
Washington, whose arms and crest were properly dis- 
played; cost £210 in gold; Martha Washington rode 
to Mount Vernon in it. Colonel Bird, British officer, 


150 THE COMMONWEALTH 


died here. 5249 Germantown Avenue, built by Dr. 
Owen Wister, was his residence from 1860-70, he then 
moved to Butler Place on York Road; 5253 German- 
town Avenue site of CHRISTOPHER SAUR’S residence 
and printing office, who arrived in Germantown, 1724; 
secured a printing outfit from Germany in 1738; pub- 
lished the first German newspaper in America, 1739; 
printed the first Bible in European language in America, 
1743; Christopher Saur, Jr., was Bishop of the Dunkard 
Church, 17538. 5242-44 Germantown Avenue, site of 
Indian Queen Tavern, which gave the name to Queen 
Street. 5261 Germantown Avenue, erected by John 
Wister in 1744, stones were quarried from a hill in the 
rear; joists from oaks in Wister’s woods; family removed 
to Penllyn during occupancy by British, where SALLY 
WISTER, a daughter, wrote her charming “Diary.” 
The British General, James Agnew, lived here at the 
time of Battle of Germantown; was brought back 
wounded, and died here; now owned and occupied by 
Wister descendants. 5300 Germantown Avenue, cor- 
ner of Queen Street, parsonage of TRINITY LUTHERAN 
CHURCH; was one of the Saur properties; first type 
east in America, in 1772, was made in the cellar of this 
house; church built, 1887; many well-known German- 
towners lie in the graveyard. 5275-77 Germantown 
Avenue, Germantown National Bank, 1825-68; John 
Fanning Watson was cashier, he lived at 5277; build- 
ing was occupied by Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of 
State, and Edmund Randolph, Attorney General of 
the United States, in 1793, during the yellow fever in 
Philadelphia. 

Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Coul- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 151 


ter Street, ST. LUKE’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL 
CHURCH, first Episcopal Church in Germantown, 
built, 1811; land given by Thomas Armat, Esq.; 
John Fanning Watson, the annalist, is buried in the 
churchyard. Northwest corner of Germantown Ave- 
nue, and Coulter Street, FRIENDS’ MEETING, land 
given by Jacob Shoemaker, fifty acres, in 1693; in the 
library is a photograph of the first protest against 
slavery. 5425 Germantown Avenue, Masonic Lodge 
room; site, residence of A. Bronson Alcott, where 
LouisA MAy ALCOTT, authoress, was born. 5430 
Germantown Avenue, residence of Captain ALBERT 
ASHMEAD, of the Philadelphia County Troop who 
commanded a troop of cavalry, and escorted General 
Lafayette from Bristol to Philadelphia in 1824; French 
Embassy during 1798. 5484 Germantown Avenue, 
residence of John Ashmead, father of Captain Albert 
Ashmead; who designed and made the first carriages 
known as Germantown wagons, in 1824, in the shop 
at rear of house; also first plows with wrought iron 
mold board; Lafayette purchased four, for his La 
Grange farm in France. 

MARKET SQUARE, Battle of Germantown fought 
here, September 25, 1777; here was the market house, 
prison, stocks, and public scales; in February, 1764, 
several hundred Paxtang boys, from banks of the 
Conestoga and Susquehanna Rivers, encamped here; 
they came east to murder the peaceful Moravian 
Indians, sheltered in Philadelphia, and were met by 
Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Willing, Benjamin Chew, 
and others, who persuaded them to return. Monu- 
ment erected in 1883, to Civil War soldiers and sailors, 


152 THE COMMONWEALTH 


pedestal with tablets, containing names of German- 
town soldiers and sailors, at base are two coast defense 
mortars from the Civil War, two bronze cannon 
on wheels from the United States Arsenal; the en- 
closure is of musket barrels and bayonets, used 
during Civil War, and broken cannon from British 
frigate Augusta, sunk by American batteries dur- 
ing Revolutionary War. MARKET SQUARE PRES- 
BYTERIAN CHURCH, originally German Reformed, built 
in 1733; Count Zinzendorf preached his first sermon 
in America here, December, 1741, and last on leav- 
ing, June, 1742; Washington worshiped here while 
living in the Morris house opposite; a battalion of 
Ninth Virginia, captured by the British, was con- 
fined here. 

5442 Germantown Avenue, Morris Houst, Wash- 
ington’s summer residence, in 1793-94, built by David 
Deshler, 1772-73; Sir William Howe occupied it after 
the battle in 1777; in 1804, it was bought by Mr. 
Perot for a country residence, and became the prop- 
erty of his son-in-law, Mr. Morris; the yard is kept in 
the simple elegance of colonial times. 5450 German- 
town Avenue, in 1790 residence of Thomas Armat, who 
lived later at “‘Loudoun.”’ 5452 Germantown Avenue, 
erected in 1711 by John Ashmead, great grandfather 
of Captain Albert Ashmead; front rebuilt 1790. 5454 
Germantown Avenue, occupied in 1742 by Count Zin- 
zendorf; commencement of Moravian Seminary, now 
in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. Saving Fund Building, 
site, residence of Jacob Tellner, first stone house built 
in Germantown; William Penn present at the roof 
raising; he once preached here. 


THE COMMONWEALTH HAR: 


School House Lane and Greene Street, GERMAN- 
TOWN ACADEMY, built, 1759; colonial, native stone; 
founded by Christopher Saur, and others of German 
birth, to furnish education in “English, High Dutch, 
and the German language.” It has always held high 
rank as a school; the bell was brought to Philadelphia 
in 1774, in the tea ship Polly, the cargo was not allowed 
to land, it was taken back to England, and returned 
here when the war was ended; telescope used by Wash- 
ington during battle, when the building was used as a 
hospital, is here; several British soldiers were buried in 
the yard; cricket was first played in America here, by 
British officers; Bank of Pennsylvania was brought 
here, escorted by McPherson’s Blues in 1798, during 
the second yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia; 
gymnasium on Green Street, modern. On School 
House Lane, farther west, is Cricket Field of the Wil- 
liam Penn Charter School. 

. Northeast corner of Schoo! House Lane and Ger- 
mantown Avenue, Mutual Fire Insurance Company, 
in the office is “Shag Rag,”’ an old hand engine, im- 
ported from England, 1764; site, De la Plaine house, 
Whitefield preached from balcony to about 500 people 
in the Square. Northwest corner of Germantown Ave- 
nue and School House Lane, Germantown Bank, char- 
tered, 1813; site of Germantown Library in 1806; 
used by United States Bank in 1798, escorted from 
Philadelphia by body of Light Horse. 5516-18-20 
Germantown Avenue, site, KING OF PRUSSIA TAVERN 
in 1757, the sign was painted by Gilbert Stuart; a 
stage coach, with awning, ran from King of Prussia to 
the “George Inn,” Second and Arch Streets, three 


154 THE COMMONWEALTH 


times a week. Germantown Avenue north of Chelten 
Avenue, Vernon Park, residence of John Wister, mem- 
ber of Congress until 1883; now belongs to the city; 
mansion, built in 18038, is used as museum by the Site 
Relic Society; marble statue of John Wister, near the 
door, made in Italy, given by his son, Jones Wister, 
who posed for the figure. Free library building in 
Park. South side of Haines Street, east of Chew, still 
stands a farmhouse; residence of Christopher Ludwig 
in 1777; appointed “Baker General” to American 
Army; said to be the original of Harvey Birch in 
Cooper’s novel, “The Spy.” 

Southeast corner Germantown Avenue and High 
Street, site of the Morris-Littell house, was residence of 
DR. CHRISTOPHER WITT, physician, botanist, musician, 
artist, astronomer, poet; originally one of the hermits of 
the Wissahickon; friend of John Bartram and Francis 
Daniel Pastorius; an oil portrait of Johannes Kelpius, 
painted by Dr. Witt in 1705, is said to be the first oil 
portrait painted in America, now at Pennsylvania His- 
torical Society; he started the first botanical garden in 
America, twenty years earlier than Bartram’s. Now 
yard of high school building. South side of High Street, 
two squares east from Germantown Avenue, ST. 
MICHAEL’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH; window 
of St. Michael after Guido Reni by William and Annie 
Lee Willet; grave of Dr. Christopher Witt is here; 
died in 1765, aged 90; site of old Warner burial 
ground; British and American soldiers were buried 
here. 

METHODIST CHURCH, 6019 Germantown Avenue, site, 
Green Tree Tavern in 1748, kept by Francis Daniel 


THE COMMONWEALTH 155 


Pastorius until 1754; General Anthony Wayne came 
this far, time of battle; Pastorius was the hero in 
Whittier’s “Pennsylvania Pilgrim.”’ Diedin 1719; was 
buried, probably, in the Friends’ burial ground, Ger- 
mantown Avenue above Coulter Street. Southwest 
corner of Walnut Lane and Germantown Avenue, 
“WYCK,”’ built in 1690; thought to be the oldest house 
now in Germantown; was used as hospital and operat- 
ing room after battle; Lafayette was entertained here 
July, 1825. 6043 Germantown Avenue, southeast 
corner of Walnut Lane, was bought in 1775 by Dr. 
William Shippen as a summer home; center of fierce 
skirmish during battle; Pennsylvania manual training 
school was here under Dr. George Junkin, who was 
afterwards President of Washington and Lee Univer- 
sity; his daughter was married to General Stonewall 
Jackson; in 1832, Dr. Junkin was President of Lafay- 
ette College, Easton; in 1851 this property was bought 
by Charlotte Cushman, actress. 

Germantown Avenue above Herman Street, MEN- 
NONITE MEETING House, founded, 1708; present 
building erected, 1770; William Rittenhouse, first 
pastor; Brigadier General Agnew was mortally 
wounded near here. 6205 Germantown Avenue, site of 
house built in 1738 by Dirck Keyser, a silk merchant, 
who came from Amsterdam in 1688. 6239 German- 
town Avenue, was known as Washington Tavern in 
1793. 6306 Germantown Avenue, Johnson House, in 
thickest of fight; time of battle the British swarmed 
through, and cleared everything edible; family fled to 
the cellar. Germantown Avenue, north of Washing- 
ton Lane, built, 1775, Concord School House; now 


156 THE COMMONWEALTH 


Charter Oak Library. North of library is the Upper 
Burial Ground; has probably the oldest existing 
stone to a German in Pennsylvania, Cornelius Tyson, 
buried in 1716; graves of the Lippard family are 
here, ancestors of George Lippard, author; Ameri- 
can soldiers’ memorial stone was erected by John Fan- 
ning Watson. Southeast corner of Germantown Ave- 
nue and Duval Street, site, “Pomona,” residence Col- 
onel Thomas Forrest, artillery officer; later member of 
the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Congress. 6338 Ger- 
mantown Avenue, site, the Ship House, built, 1760; 
had representation of a ship on south gable; rear, site 
of first public hall in Germantown. 

Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and John- 
son Street, CHEW HOUSE, “Cliveden,” known as the 
“Germantown Battle Field,” built in 1760 by Benjamin 
Chew, Attorney General of the Province, member of 
Council, later Chief Justice; colonial, solid and heavy 
masonry; forming admirable fortification; was the 
scene of most important battle in Germantown, Octo- 
ber 4, 1777; family were away; house partly furnished 
was left in charge of servants, the building was battered 
with bullets, holes still shown in the doors. Northwest 
corner of Germantown Avenue and Johnson Streets, 
UPSALA, one of the finest examples of colonial archi- 
tecture; built in 1798 by John Johnson; is still occu- 
pied by his descendants; during the battle, Americans 
put their cannon in the yard to fire on the Chew House, 
opposite. Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue 
and Upsal Street, Billmyer house, built in 1727; Wash- 
ington stood on the horse block, telescope in hand, to 
penetrate the smoke of battle, and discover force of the 


THE COMMONWEALTH 157 


enemy at Chew House. Woodwork bears marks of 
bullets and attempts by soldiers to set it on fire; bought 
by Michael Billmyer in 1788, a celebrated German 
painter, whose business plant was here; tablet placed 
by Site and Relic Society. 

6611 Germantown Avenue, parsonage of DUNKARD 
MEETING HOUSE, said to be over two hundred years 
old; near it, in the battle, General Nash was mortally 
wounded and Major Witherspoon, son of Rev. John 
Witherspoon, President of Princeton College, killed by 
the same cannon ball; they were buried in St. Michael’s 
Lutheran Churchyard. 6613 Germantown Avenue, 
mother church of the Brethren, or DUNKARDS, in 
Ameryica; who came here in 1719; Church was organ- 
ized by Peter Becker, first pastor, in 1723, present 
building, erected, 1770, has tablet to Christopher Saur 
in the meeting house, he published the first American 
quarto edition of the Bible, 1743; in the graveyard is 
buried Alexander Mack, founder of the Dunkard sect 
in Germany, who came to America, 1729. 

Southeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Phil- 
Ellena Street, St. MICHAEL’S LUTHERAN CHURCH, 
founded 1737; in 1742, Rev. Henry Melchoir Muhlen- 
berg had charge here, and of St. John’s in Philadelphia; 
pews were placed in 1750; during the battle, the organ 
was destroyed vy British soldiers, who ran along the 
streets blowing the pipes; in the graveyard is buried 
Christopher Ludwig, and other patriots. 6749 German- 
town Avenue, residence George Hesser; Elizabeth 
Drinker’s journal, written while staying here in 1793, 
during yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia, gives 
interesting local details of life in Germantown. 


158 THE COMMONWEALTH 


7301 Germantown Avenue, opposite Allen’s Lane, 
LUTHERAN 'THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, site, “ Mount 
Airy,’ summer residence of Chief Justice William 
Allen; Lafayette was entertained here; later a school 
was conducted by Benjamin C. Constant, ‘The 
American Classical and Military Institute.’ General 
Meade and his brother, also General Beauregard, 
were educated here. Southeast corner of German- 
town and Gowen Avenues, now part of Lutheran 
Theological Seminary; residence, in 1792, of Joseph 
Miller, whose daughter was married to James Gowen; 
their son, Franklin B. Gowen, was born and lived here 
many years, also his brother, James E. Gowen. 

7406 Germantown Avenue, Mount Airy, PENNSYL- 
VANIA INSTITUTION FOR DEAF, semi-deaf and blind- 
deaf; founded in 1820 by David G. Seixas, who gathered 
deaf street roamers in his home, taught, fed, and clothed 
them; a school was planned, Bishop White presiding; 
constitution adopted, and directors chosen; now a 
splendidly equipped trade teaching department for 
boys and girls; articulation, and lip reading taught; 
architecture, Norman, 


INTERESTING PLACES WEST, NOT ON 
GERMANTOWN AVENUE 


Queen Lane, two blocks west on Wissahickon Avenue, 
CARLTON, residence of Henry Hall; Washington’s 
headquarters, August, 1777, and two days in Septem- 
ber, before and immediately after the Battle of Brandy- 
wine; when the British occupied Germantown, the 
Hessian detachment encamped from here to the Schuyl- 
kill River: General Kuyphansen’s headquarters: be- 


THE COMMONWEALTH 159 


yond the house, toward Queen Lane reservoir, is a 
granite monument erected by Sons of the Revolution 
in 1895 to commemorate the earlier encampment of 
the American army at this point. Corner of Ritten- 
house Street and Lincoln Drive, birthplace of David 
Rittenhouse, Pennsylvania’s first and greatest astrono- 
mer, born April 8, 1732; house erected in 1707; his 
grandfather, William Rittenhouse, came to America in 
1690; first paper maker in America; mill located near 
the house. 


PLACES OF INTEREST EAST 


East Logan Street, across Wissahickon Avenue, the 
picturesque WAKEFIELD MILLS and residence of Thomas 
and Sarah Fisher, née Logan, in 1795, granddaughter 
of James Logan, of Stenton; passing Wakefield, Old 
York Road is soon reached. JEWISH HOSPITAL on the 
right. Old York Road, on left, residence of Pierce 
Butler, bought in 1812; he was a member of the Con- 
stitutional Convention, and Senator from South Caro- 
lina; his son, Pierce Butler, Jr., married Fanny Kem- 
ble; present residence of Owen Wister, their grandson; 
the British outpost was stationed near here. Church 
Lane and Wingohocking Creek, site of Roberts Mill, 
built in 1683; first in the country; built by Richard 
Townsend, a passenger on the Welcome with William 
Penn; back of mill, British had a small redoubt, guard- 
ing their encampment in Germantown. Northeast 
corner of Church Lane and Dunton Street, Spencer 
farmhouse; Thomas Godfrey, inventor of the quad- 
rant, was born here; he died in 1749. Northwest cor- 
ner of Haines Street and Limekiln Turnpike, PHILA- 


160 THE COMMONWEALTH 


DELPHIA NATIONAL CEMETERY, thirteen acres, founded 
in 1885; soldiers of the War of the Rebellion are buried 
here. Farther along Limekiln Turnpike left wing of 
Washington’s army moved down this road, and a 
sharp encounter occurred with an outpost of British. 


II 
BUCKS COUNTY 


UTOMOBILE ride of historic interest through 
Washington’s itinerary to New Hope. Return 
to Philadephia via Bristol and Frankford. 

One of the first three counties established by William 
Penn, 1682, named for Buckinghamshire (Bucks), Eng- 
land, Penn’s ancestral home. From Hatsoro, Mont- 
gomery County, take the Old York Road to WARMIN- 
STER, site where John Fitch, in 1785, made a model of 
the first successful steamboat, marked by monument; 
he ran a boat, with side wheels, by steam, on a pond 
in 1786, and on the Delaware River, during session of 
Federal Constitution at State House in Philadelphia, 
1787; twenty years before Robert Fulton’s triaf trip 
on the Hudson; before Fitch, first model of steamboat 
in United States was made by William Henry, of Lan- 
easter, 1768. Approaching Hartsville, is site of Log 
College, origin of Princeton University, founded by 
Rev. William Tennent, 1740, near Christ’s Home, 
where everything is obtained through prayer. Ne- 
shaminy Church in a grove of very old oak trees, where 
William Tennent preached, is one of the oldest Pres- 
byterian churches in Pennsylvania. HARTSVILLE, 
Cobe Scout’s shop, on Little Neshaminy; bulk of 
American army was at Neshaminy Camp, with General 
Stephen and Lord Sterling, when Lafayette joined it, 
and was handed his commission by General Washington 
in Moreland house, near the bridge; marked, inscrip- 

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BUCKS COUNTY 163 


tion, “‘ Washington’s headquarters, August, 1777, Bucks 
County Historical Society.”’ First Pike west of Harts- 
ville, wooden covered bridge over Little Neshaminy; 
inscription, ‘Bucks County Bridge, 1821, 20 mi. to 
P.” Continue York Road beyond Jamison’s Corner, 
seven arch stone bridge over Big Neshaminy at Bridge 
Valley, built, 1800; beyond bridge, first left road, over 
Crawford’s Hill, fine view of Neshaminy Valley. 

Via Pebble Hill to DOYLESTOWN, county seat, settled, 
1778, population 3857; court house, native gray stone; 
concrete fountain in front, Renaissance, with benches 
and lamp posts, designed by William R. Mercer, Jr., 
erected by borough, 1912, in commemoration of one 
hundredth anniversary of the county seat. Bucks 
County Historical Society, Library and Museum, 
built, 1915, of reinforced concrete, interior groined 
arch construction, designed, built, and presented to 
the Society by Dr. Henry C. Mercer; the court, sur- 
rounded by four galleries, contains collections illus- 
trating history of the United States by means of 
utensils of American pioneers; unique of its kind in 
America; includes Indian relics, decorated stove 
plates, illustrated in a booklet “The Bible in Iron”; 
arms and relics of the Rebellion. Former library build- 
ing, now the Auditorium, brick, built, 1904; colonial, 
designed from “Homewood,” Baltimore residence of 
Charles Carroll of Carrollton; was presented to the 
Society by William L. Elkins, Esq. 

Fountain House, Main Street, opposite National 
Bank, oldest hostelry in continuous use in upper Bucks 
County, built, 1745, rebuilt, 1758, low, two story, with 
porches, was the old stagehouse to Easton; contains 

12 


164 BUCKS COUNTY 


large collection of colonial furnishings and old prints. 
“Aldie,”’ residence of William R. Mercer, Jr., has 
notable pheasantry, rare fowls from eastern Asia; 
concrete garden ornaments made by Mr. Mercer; and 
antique sculpture from pre-Christian era; Font Hill, 
outside borough limits, residence, Dr. Henry C. Mercer; 
beamed and vaulted ceilings; roof terraces and many 
windows, entirely of reinforced concrete; walls and ceil- 
ings adorned with mosaics and tiles made by Dr. 
Mercer at the neighboring ‘Moravian Pottery and Tile 
Works.”’ Living room decoration, Bible pictures in 
tiles, adapted from Pennsylvania German stove plates; 
Columbus room, ceiling and pavement tiles, discovery 
and exploration of America; Bow room; ceiling tiles, 
Cortez’ maps of ancient Mexico, pavement, Aztec pic- 
ture writings; Yellow room tiles, story of Bluebeard; 
also collection of classical and Renaissance mosaics, and 
ancient tiles, from historic buildings; may be seen by 
writing to the owner for admission. 

Near Doylestown, National Farm School, four hun- 
dred acres, pioneer Jewish institution of its kind in 
America, founded, 1898. From Doylestown southwest, 
two miles, CASTLE VALLEY, Prospect or Spruce Hill, 
fine view, and grave, according to county tradition, of 
Lenape Chief, Tammany, whose name is used in Tam- 
many Hall, New York; continuing the automobile 
route, Buckingham turnpike near Doylestown, small 
stone bridge, said to be 179 years old; facing masonry, 
more modern; date stone, 1814. BUCKINGHAM, 
Tavern, General Green’s headquarters, lunch room 
restored in ancient style; Friends Meeting House, 
with lost graves of Continental soldiers along roadside; 


BUCKS COUNTY 165 


Buckingham Mountain and Wolf Rocks, center of 
runaway slave settlement, old negro church on summit; 
left of Old York Road, ancient limestone quarries and 
kilns; HOLICONG or ‘‘Conkey Hole” deep funnel- 
shaped depression with water hole in neighboring field; 
residence of Colonel H. D. Paxson, contains unique 
collection of light and fire making apparatus, and of 
North American Indian objects including the Lenape 
Stone; LAHASKA, Dr. Staveley’s residence, ‘‘ Bleak 
House.”’ AQUETONG, Logan’s or Ingham Spring, one 
of the largest limestone springs in East United States, 
residence of Samuel Ingham, General Jackson’s Secre- 
tary of State; north of York Road, SOLEBURY, Friends 
Meeting House. . 

CENTER BRIDGE, on the Delaware, house in which 
William G. Whittier, the poet, lived. Residence of 
Edward W. Redfield, landscape painter, many of his 
paintings are made from scenes in this vicinity. NEw 
HOPE, summer art colony, residence W. L. Lathrop, and 
other artists; Parry House, “Cintra,” stone, with walls 
of great thickness, said to have been built by William 
Maris in 1816, is so strikingly like the famous Octagon 
House in Washington, D. C., that both were probably 
from the same model, a wing of the old castle “ Cintra”’ 
near Lisbon, Portugal; the heavy paneled cherry doors, 
with silver-plated knobs, on first floor, are said to have 
been originally part of Robert Morris’ house, ‘The 
Hills,” in Fairmount Park; Mr. Maris is credited with 
several buildings in New Hope, also, near New Hope, 
“Spring Dale,” with octagonal entrance hall, once the 
home of Dr. Charles Huffnagle, who was United States 
Consul to Calcutta and later United States Consul 


166 BUCKS COUNTY 


General to British India; who brought a notable col- 
lection of curios from the Orient which for many years 
were on exhibition at Spring Dale. 

In December, 1776, four brigades under Generals 
Sterling, Mercer, Stephen, and De Fermoy, were posted 
from Yardley’s to Coryell’s Ferry, now New Hope, to 
suard fords above Trenton. Farmhouse of William 
Keith above Brownsburg, built, 1763; marked, inscrip- 
tion, ‘‘Washington’s headquarters previous to Battle 
of Trenton, December 14-25, 1776.” Old Eagle 
Tavern to right, fine view of river, hills, and valley 
southward; picturesque valley of Knowles Creek along 
Jericho Hill, site of American Army camp. North, 
line of William Penn’s first Bucks County purchase 
from the Indians, near site of Indian town Playwicky; 
below, ‘‘Lurgan,” near river, named in honor of James 
Logan’s birthplace in County Armagh, Ireland. On 
December 25, Washington and army crossed the river 
at McConkey’s Ferry, now TAYLORSVILLE, before mid- 
night; nine hundred-foot bridge there now; twenty- 
four hundred troops were transported by 3.00 A. M. 
December 26; marched to Trenton, in two divisions, 
under Generals Greene and Sullivan, conquered the 
Hessians, and recrossed the river same evening, with 
nearly one thousand prisoners, arms, and _ several 
cannon. 

At NEWTOWN, then county seat, Washington wrote 
of his victory to the President of Congress, December 
27, 1776, in residence of John Harris; his headquarters 
until December 29. Old Brick Hotel, built, 1684, 
enlarged, 1764, called, ‘The Red Lion,” Hessian pris- 
oners were brought here; in 1829, residence of Major 


BUCKS COUNTY 167 


Joseph O. V. S. Archambault, born at Fontainebleau, 
France, aide to Napoleon in Battle of Waterloo, mem- 
ber of his household at St. Helena; was visited here 
by Prince Murat and Joseph Bonaparte. Old Friends 
Meeting House; old Court House; and Bank, robbed 
by the Doans after the Revolution. North of Newtown, 
one mile, WRIGHTSTOWN, Lenape monument, on site 
of chestnut tree, land given by Miss Martha Chapman, 
inscription, “To the memory of the Lenni-Lenape 
Indians, ancient owners of the region, these stones are 
_ placed on this spot; the starting point of the ‘Indian 
Walk,’ September 19, 1735, Bucks County Historical 
Society, 1890.” Friends Meeting House; nearby, in 
fields, site of cave house of John Chapman, first settler: 
very beautiful views beyond Buckmansville toward 
Wrightstown, Solebury Mountain in plain view. 
On Richboro Pike, at RICHBORO and CHURCHVILLE 
are Dutch Reformed churches, about 200 years old; 
near is Southampton Baptist Church, built, 1764. 
From WRIGHTSTOWN, through YARDLEYVILLE to MoR- 
RISVILLE, population 8639; opposite Trenton; Island 
off lower part was first Pennsylvania land occupied by 
Europeans, 1624; first ferry, 1640. “Summer Seat,” 
built by Thomas Barkley, 1778, conveyed to Robert 
Morris, 1791, still standing; was Washington’s head- 
quarters December 8 to 14, 1776; Lincoln Highway 
enters Pennsylvania here. FALLSINGTON, Friends 
Meeting House and quaint old buildings. 

Return to Philadelphia on Bristol and Frankford 
Turnpike; “The King’s Highway,” laid out by Pro- 
vincial Council, first road cut through Bucks County; 
early milestones still standing; pass Wheat Sheaf to 


168 BUCKS COUNTY 


Pennsbury, site of William Penn’s country house, 
frames and other work brought from England; he lived 
here one year. EDGELY, greenhouses where ‘‘Queen 
of Edgely Rose” originated; Landreth’s seed farms 
above BRISTOL, population, 10,273, named for Bristol, 
England, home of William Penn’s wife, Hannah Callow- 
hill; the Keene house, built by Major Lenox, 1816, 
American minister to England, his niece, Sarah Lukens 
Keene, inherited and died here, bequeathing it to the 
Protestant Episcopal Church of Philadelphia, in trust, 
as home for aged gentlewomen; St. James’ Protestant 
Episcopal Church, built, 1712, has silver communion 
service presented by Queen Anne, church was used for 
stable by cavalry during the Revolution; interesting 
burial ground, tomb of Captain John Green of American 
Navy, said to have been first to carry the American 
flag in voyage around the world. Farmers’ Bank of 
Bucks County, Radcliffe Street, Grecian, Ionic, built 
by James Craig, nephew of Nicholas Biddle, for resi- 
dence, bought for bank, 1830. 

LANGHORNE, residence of Joseph Richardson, Esq., 
built, 1738, Edge Hill stone, with white oak joists and 
rafters, sawed by hand with pit saw, now occupied by 
his descendants; headquarters of Lafayette and Dr. 
Peter Yarnall. “Night after battle of Trenton, part of 
Washington’s army came to Attleboro,’’ now Lang- 
horne: old Galloway House, Trevose, residence of 
Jeremiah Langhorne, part owner of Durham Furnace. 
One mile east, on Lincoln Highway, is stone mansion, 
one of the oldest in Pennsylvania, exterior is in original 
state, residence of the late A. Haller Gross, Esq., notable 
for its art, architecture, and landscape gardening; an 


BUCKS COUNTY 169 


addition, in French chateau style, built, 1911, has rooms 
and floors enriched by very beautiful tiles, designed and 
made by Dr. Henry C. Mercer; his work is further 
shown on the terraces and gardens; in a fountain of 
green enameled tiles; the concrete balustrade, and pavil- 
ion dragons and other devices are in the sunken Moorish 
garden; and in the Italian garden, with its pergola, 
sun dial and fountain. BYBERRY, birthplace Dr. Ben- 
jamin Rush in 1745, house still standing; and Friends 
Meeting House, with large library. EDDINGTON, St. 
Francis Roman Catholic Industrial School, built and 
endowed by the Drexel family; CORNWELLS, “Castle 
of State in Schuylkill’; ANDALUSIA, named by John 
Craig, Philadelphia merchant, in memory of successful 
ventures in Spain; here is Church of the Redeemer 
and King Free Library. Old Red Lion Inn, on the 
Pike, near three-arched stone bridge, over Poquessing 
Creek, Washington’s army encamped around it in 1781, 
on march to Yorktown; seven years earlier, Massa- 
chusetts delegates to the First Continental Congress 
stopped here. 

TORRESDALE, Philadelphia County, place of fine 
residences; Eden Hall now Convent of St. Elizabeth. 
BUSTLETON, old Baptist Church, with interesting burial 
ground. Over Pennypack Creek, two arched stone 
bridge; date, 1800, style has been reproduced in the 
Fairmount Park trolley bridges. HOLMESBURG, Edwin 
Forrest Home, ‘Spring Brook,’ and one hundred and 
eleven acres, bequeathed by him, for retired actors, men 
and women; bought in 1865 for his country seat; House 
of Correction, accommodates 1000; well-kept grounds. 
Over Pennypack Creek, stone bridge built 1697-8, in 


170 BUCKS COUNTY 


good repair, oldest in Pennsylvania; about a mile dis- 
tant, near Rowland Station, is old Crispin Cemetery, 
contains monument, inscription, “In memory of 
Thomas Holmes, died, 1695, age 71, Surveyor General 
for William Penn, he drafted the plan and laid out the 
City of Philadelphia.’’ BRIDESBURG, United States 
Arsenal. FRANKFORD, site of a Delaware Indian Camp, 
on banks of Frankford Creek; many arrowheads have 
been found in this locality; Indian names are retained 
at Tacony, Tackawanna, Wissinoming; an interesting 
Roman Catholic Church, Gothic, is at Tacony, also 
Louis A. Burk’s Japanese garden and orchid farm. 
Swedes settled here in 1667, and were followed by the 
English. Philadelphia delegates to the First Con- 
tinental Congress came to Frankford in 1774 to meet 
the Massachusetts delegates on their way to the city, 
and held a conference here relative to the Independence 
of the colonies, which decided the destiny of the nation. 
In 1781 General Washington and his army marched 
through Frankford from New York to Yorktown; a 
stop was made at the “Jolly Post Hotel,’’ built, 1680, 
on Frankford Avenue north of Orthodox Street. 

In 1824 Lafayette passed through Frankford from 
Bristol to Philadelphia, riding in an open carriage 
drawn by six cream-colored horses, with postilions; he 
was escorted by a detachment of the City Troop under 
command of Captain Albert Ashmead, Captain of the 
Philadelphia County Troop; the Washington Grays, 
and several other companies of mounted volunteers. 
Rooms of the Frankford Historical Society, Frankford 
Avenue north of Sellers Street, contain many objects of 
interest, illustrating this locality in old times. Resi- 


BUCKS COUNTY 171 


dence of Commodore Stephen Decatur is on Powder 
Mill Lane. The old Friends’ Meeting House, corner 
of Unity and Waln Streets, was organized in 1682; 
first log church built, 1698; present building, 1775. 
Rehoboth Methodist Church, formed in 1830; used 
the old Academy; the Supreme Court met here in 1800; 
now on Paul Street below Unity Street; present build- 
ing Spanish architecture, dark brick, erected, 1879. St. 
Mark’s Protestant Episcopal Church was a Mission 
of Trinity, Oxford; started in 1709; present church, 
Frankford Avenue below Sellers Street, erected in 1908; 
English, Fourteenth century Gothic; Port Deposit 
granite with Indiana limestone trimmings; architects, 
Watson and Huckle; windows by D’Ascenzo and 
Tiffany. Frankford Presbyterian Church, corner of 
Frankford Avenue and Church Street, was originally 
German Reformed; corner-stone laid, 1770; for many 
years the church was supplied with a preacher from the 
Market Square Church, Germantown; present build- 
ing erected, 1859; architect, McArthur. St. Joachim’s 
Roman Catholic Church, corner of Church and Frank- 
lin Streets, built, 1874; Gothic, brownstone and sand- 
stone; has a very beautiful tower, resembling that of 
Magdalen College, Oxford; architect, Edwin Durang; 
contains three carved marble altars; also a large 
mosaic, and memorial windows from Munich. 
Automobile, north from Centre Bridge, River Road, 
to DURHAM, commands some of the most beautiful 
views in eastern Pennsylvania; through LUMBERVILLE, 
Devil’s Half Acre; right, at Like Kiln, site of important 
Indian fishing village, many relics have been found 
here. POINT PLEASANT, mouth of Tohickon Creek, 


172 BUCKS COUNTY 


Indians quarried argillite rock for blade material; 
RIDGES ISLAND, Indian village site; grave of Edward 
Marshall of the “Indian Walk,” in his family grave- 
yard. Tinicum Creek, picturesque gorges, ringing 
rocks, cliffs of the narrows, with fine view from Table 
Rock, very rare “ice plant”’ grows here. Hill Presby- 
terian Church, built, 1761, on Durham Road near 
OTTSVILLE. 

KINTERSVILLE, ruins of Durham Furnace, built, 
1727, stone, thirty-five feet square at base, thirty feet 
high; large leather bellows used to give the blast, 
were operated by a water wheel; charcoal fuel was 
made in pits close at hand; in 1758, Durham was 
regarded as best iron works in the country; in 1773, 
one thousand acres were reserved for the furnace; fire 
backs and stove plates were made here until 1794, 
when it blew out; eight genuine, Durham fire backs 
are at ““Stenton,’’ Germantown, home of James Logan, 
who was one-fourth owner of the furnace, three bear 
the date, 1728; cannon balls for the Revolutionary 
war were made here in quantities, specimens may be 
seen in the Bucks County Historical Society; in 1773 
Joseph Galloway became first individual owner, it 
then comprised over eight thousand acres, and was 
leased to George Taylor, at one time a filler at the 
furnace; he later was a signer of the Declaration of 
Independence; scanty remains of the once celebrated 
Durham Cave, destroyed for its limestone as flux for 
iron ore. The road passes site of Indian village of 
Pechequeolin, jasper quarries worked by Indians for 
arrowheads on neighboring Rattlesnake Hill. Fine 
old stone arch bridges over Tohickon and Durham 


BUCKS COUNTY 173 


Creeks. RIEGELSVILLE, old Reformed and Lutheran 
Churches. 

Places of interest in Bucks County, north and west 
of Doylestown, via Easton and Dublin Turnpikes, 
PLUMSTEADVILLE, beautiful views of Haycock Mount- 
tain, and upper county, Moses Doan’s grave, marked 
with inscription; west, DUBLIN to HILLTOWN, two 
Mennonite and Amish meeting houses, stone arch 
bridge over Deep Run... PERKASIE, Trinity Lutheran 
Church, mural painting in chancel, ‘Angel with 
Trinity Symbol,” the late H. Hanley Parker, artist. 


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CHESTER COUNTY 


(174) 


IT] 
CHESTER COUNTY 


HIRD county formed by William Penn; named 
for Chester, England. This is rich agricultural 
district; its broad well-kept farms, great gray 

barns, and comfortable homesteads of stone or brick, 
many still occupied by descendants of the original 
Quaker settlers; together with the gently rolling surface 
of the country and its many beautiful streams, all com- 
bine to give the county a character of its own, of quiet 
pastoral charm. Both the family names and place 
names indicate in a general way the character of the 
original settlement of the county, Birmingham, Brad- 
ford, Marlborough, and Kennett indicating the settle- 
-ments of the English Quakers in the central and southern 
portion'of the county: Tredyffrin and Berwyn, those 
of the Welsh in the east; while the Germans came 
later into parts of the north; and the Scotch-Irish 
Presbyterians into the southwest. 

The Lincoln Highway, Lancaster Pike, enters the 
county at STRAFFORD; St. Peter’s Protestant Episcopal 
Church, built, 1823; Eagle schoolhouse, 1772, on site 
of Lutheran log church, 1767, one of the cradles of the 
nation in education; now contains historical library 
and relics of the neighborhood; site, of “Spread Eagle 
Inn,”’ built, 1732, post and relay station. 

PAOLI, 535 feet above sea, Tredyfirin township. 
“The General Paoli Inn,” built by General Joshua 
Evans, who was elected to State Legislature, 1820; 

(175) 


176 CHESTER COUNTY 


recruiting went on briskly here for War of 1812. Road 
southwest to West Chester, nine miles. One mile 
south of Paoli, colonial homestead, “‘ Waynesborough,”’ 
birthplace of General Anthony Wayne, built, 1724, 
in original condition, now residence of Captain William 
Wayne; contains many relics of the General; Lafay- 
ette was guest here one night; marked with bronze 
tablet; near Paoli is Great Valley Baptist Church, 
second oldest in state, built by Rev. Hugh Davis, 
from Wales, 1722; present church, 1805; interesting 
burial ground. DUFFRYNMAWR Post Office, “The 
Green Tree,’ George King, builder and host, died 
1792, native blue limestone, stopping place for Men- 
nonites and Amish. 

MALVERN, terminus of the West Chester Rail- 
road in 1883, cars were then drawn by horses; ‘‘The 
Warren Inn,” stopping place for Lancaster County 
Germans, sold to John Penn, 1776; British army 
quartered here before Paoli Massacre; in 1786, sold 
to Casper Fahnestock, member of German Mystic 
Community at Ephrata; three fugitive French princes 
were here in 1789, Louis Phillipe, Duke de Mont- 
pensier, and Count de Beaujolais. 

One mile southwest of Malvern, site of Paoli Mas- 
sacre, 1777; two monuments, marble, 1817, granite, 
1877, same inscriptions, erected by Republican Artil- 
lerists of Chester County and citizens; here General 
Wayne’s company, fifteen hundred men, were surprised 
by a greatly superior force of British under General 
Grey, and charged with bayonet before they could 
arm for defense; Wayne saved his artillery. 

DOWNINGTOWN, birthplace of Jacob Eicholtz, artist. 


NET 





BRONZE TABLET IN BOULDER 
This is located on the farm of Dr. Thomas G. Ashton, near 


Willistown 
Designed by Paul P. Cret 








CHESTER COUNTY i by 


“General George Washington Inn” known as Downings, 
now a dwelling. Interesting colonial mansion of the 
Thomas family, well preserved, now, Public Library. 
“The Ship Tavern” one mile west, old sign perforated 
with bullet holes by Continental soldiers, now a res- 
idence. Old gray stone bridge across the East Brandy- 
wine, built, 1741. 

Two miles north, near Guthrieville, birthplace of 
Thomas Buchanan Read in 1822, poet and artist; 
marked, bronze tablet. 

On the limestone road, following Indian trail, leading 
from Parkesburg to Oxford and south, are Faggs Man- 
or, six miles northeast of Oxford, classical school, 
established, 1739; marked, bronze tablet. St. John’s 
Presbyterian Church, early burial ground; White- 
field stood under the old oak trees. 

An interesting early highway known as the “Street 
Road,” laid out in part by William Penn, has almost 
the directness and width of a Roman road; entering 
the county near Westtown, and crossing Brandywine 
Creek at Pocopson, to London Grove, original name, 
Marlborough; Street, stately old Quaker Meeting House 
at London Grove; wonderful oak trees. 

WEST CHESTER, county seat, formed, 1786, popula- 
tion 11,717. In one block, High Street between Gay 
and Market Streets, are good specimens of the three 
great orders of Grecian architecture, designed by 
Thomas U. Walter, architect of Capitol at Washington; 
National Bank of Chester County, built, 1886, Doric, 
white marble; First National Bank, Ionic, white 
marble; the Court House, Corinthian, built, 1847, 
Pictou stone; on Court House lawn is Soldiers’ 


178 CHESTER COUNTY 


Monument to Civil War patriots, bronze figure, granite 
base, erected, 1915; sculptor, Harry Lewis Raul. 
Public Library, North Church Street, memorial to 
Bayard Taylor, contains interesting collection of his 
manuscripts; “The Story of Kennett,’ his books, 
sketches, and other relics; also marble bust of General 
Anthony Wayne; sculptor, W. Marshall Swayne. 
The new Library of the State Normal School contains 
portrait of Washington by Peale, painted at Valley 
Forge; historic autograph letters; Indian stone relics; 
large herbarium; and small permanent collection of 
original paintings, among them works by Hugh Brecken- 
ridge and Mary Butler; annual exhibitions of modern 
paintings and sculpture are held; Della Robbia re- 
productions in auditorium; Chester County Historical 
Society rooms are here, containing many interesting 
local historical collections; addresses on subjects of 
local historic interest are frequently given, and pub- 
lished in their bulletins. 

Churches noteworthy for architecture, Holy Trinity, 
Protestant Episcopal, South High Street, native ser- 
pentine stone, Gothic; and Westminster Presbyterian, 
South Church Street, tower suggests famous one of 
Magdalen College, Oxford. At north end of High 
Street, stone drinking fountain, surmounted by bronze 
figure of boy, sculptor, Martha J. Cornwell; placed by 
New Century Club. Marshall Square, a public park, 
contains rare collection of trees. West Chester, noted 
for men of repute in scientific world, was the residence 
of the late Dr. Joseph Trimble Rothrock; in 1893 he 
drew up a bill creating a Forestry Commission, to in- 
vestigate and report upon the forestry conditions of 


CHESTER COUNTY 179 


Pennsylvania, this bill was passed, and in 1895 he was 
appointed Commissioner of Forestry. 

Favorite drives, with succession of beautiful vistas, 
are along the East Brandywine from Downingtown 
south, and West Brandywine, from Mortonville 
south. At MORTONVILLE, three miles southeast of 
Coatesville, is fine, old, gray stone bridge, with four 
arches, graduated in width, and rounded buttresses; 
built, 1826. 

Following the stream, and crossing several pictur- 
esque wooden covered bridges, through EMBREEVILLE, 
a half mile east of which is Point Lookout, where 
sentries were posted to guard supplies for American 
Encampment at Valley Forge; marked by Chester 
County Chapter of the Daughters of the American 
Revolution; opposite is “Star Gazers’ Stone,”’ set by 
Mason and Dixon, 1764, in running a base line for 
boundary between Pennsylvania and Maryland; here 
they made various astronomical observations; cal- 
culated the force of gravity; and measured a degree of 
latitude on the earth’s surface southward; this stone 
was walled and marked, with bronze tablet. Several 
places in the vicinity, connected with the Lenni- 
Lenape Indians, are also marked; in County Home, 
srounds, grave of Indian Hannah, last of her race in 
this county; site of her cabin half mile south of NORTH- 
BROOK; Indian cemetery half mile west of Northbrook; 
and Indian Rock, just west of Northbrook; from the 
latter point the Indian chief, Checochinican, claimed 
that land had been reconveyed to the tribe up to source 
of stream, a mile on either side; these negotiations, in 
the picturesque language used by the chief, are among 

13 


180 CHESTER COUNTY 


the records of the provincial assembly; Okehocking, 
Indian Town, has been marked by tablet. 

Just east of Northbrook, birthplace of Humphry 
Marshall, botanist; two miles north, at MARSHALL- 
TON, adjoining his old home, is interesting arboretum, 
still containing many trees planted by him; marked 
with bronze tablet. 

Continue drive to LENAPE, amusement park, where 
East Branch of the Brandywine, from Downingtown, 
unites with western; down main stream, skirting, just 
above Pocopson, a beautiful spot, Dungeon Bottom; 
and passing several antique, covered, wooden bridges, 
to CHADDS ForpD; here the ranks of British, Hessians, 
and Continentals charged to and fro at Battle of 
_ Brandywine, September 11, 1777; two miles northeast, 
old BIRMINGHAM meeting house, used as hospital by 
troops, and center of some of the fiercest fighting; many 
points connected with the battle were marked with 
tablets by Chester County Historical Society, in con- 
nection with State Historical Commission, in 1915. 

On State Highway, six miles west of Chadds Ford, 
Kennett Square, birthplace of Bayard Taylor, poet and 
traveler, and his later home “‘Cedar-Croft,”’ built by 
him, one mile south, both marked with bronze tablets; 
he was buried at Longwood Meeting House, about two 
miles east; artistic monument, a cylindrical stone; at 
this meeting house, of “Progressive Friends,”” many 
prominent leaders of anti-slavery spoke before the 
Civil War. This region was center of anti-slavery 
sentiment, many of the old Quaker homesteads were 
stations of the so-called “underground railroad,” by 
which fugitive slaves were protected and carried north- 


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BAYARD TAYLOR MONUMENT, LONGWOOD 


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CHESTER COUNTY 181 


ward. Half mile north of Longwood Meeting House is 
“‘Pierce’s Park,’’ now owned by Pierre du Pont, Esq., 
contains wonderful trees, planted over a century ago 
by Samuel and Joshua Pierce, who rode on horseback 
to the Dismal Swamp for cy»resses and brought them 
home in saddlebags. Mr. du Pont has recently added 
an unusually beautiful flower garden and conservatory; 
visitors admitted free on week days. 

KENNETT SQUARE, Bayard Taylor Memorial Li- 
brary, contains first editions of his books, his paintings, 
and his drawings; also busts of Bayard Taylor and 
John Welsh; sculptor, W. Marshall Swayne. In 
Advent Protestant Episcopal Church, memorial 
window to Bayard Taylor. Ten miles southwest, 
NEW LONDON Academy, founded, 1748, marked by 
bronze tablet; here were educated three signers of the 
Declaration of Independence, Thomas McKean, George 
Reed, and James Smith, and other men of prominence. 

Other places of interest, in north of county, are 
VALLEY FORGE, chiefly in Montgomery County. 
PHGNIXVILLE, population 10,484; farthest inland 
point reached by British, September 21-22-28, 1777; 
marked by low granite monument opposite Fountain 
Inn. St. Peter’s Protestant Episcopal Church, 
stone; stained glass windows by Meyer Bros., Munich, 
Germany; Parish House interior designed by the late 
George Wattress, pure English, dark oak, with tiled 
floors; early Iron Industry, Phoenix Iron Company, 
marked, bronze tablet. 

Ten miles northwest of Phcenixville is COVENTRY- 
VILLE, old Coventry Forge, 1717, earliest in county, 
second in Pennsylvania; Mordecai Lincoln, ancestor 


182 CHESTER COUNTY 


of Abraham Lincoln, worked here and was part owner 
in 1725. WARWICK, Warwick Furnace, Potts and 
Rutter, proprietors, 1737; here was cast the first 
Franklin stove, and others with quaint designs and 
Biblical verses; cannon and cannon balls were made 
here for the Revolutionary Army; marked. Seven 
miles west of Phoenixville, at CHESTER SPRINGS, is 
summer art school of the Pennsylvania Academy of 
the Fine Arts, forty acres, with buildings for studios, 
and lodging houses for the students; one of these 
buildings was used as a Revolutionary Hospital, 
marked; former name, “Yellow Springs,” a watering 
resort in colonial days. 

Marking on all places has been by the Chester 
County Historical Society unless otherwise stated. 


IV 
LANCASTER COUNTY 


ORMED May 10, 1729, by request of the pro- 

prietaries, on site of an Indian village; it was 

named for Lancashire, England, derived from 
Lan-Castra, the Camp at Lan, permanent camp of 
Roman occupation of Britain two thousand years ago. 
Earliest settlers, Swiss Mennonites, who, in 1710, had 
warrants for ten thousand acres of land on Pequea 
Creek; leader, Bishop Hans Herr; his stone house, built 
by himself on this tract, is still standing, with initials 
and date cut over front door, “‘C. H. H. 1719.” A fine 
Mennonite meeting house, lately built, is here; on the 
erounds ishugeboulder, marked by the Lancaster Coun- 
ty Historical Society. This is the richest agricultural 
county in the United States, of unexampled fertility; 
the tourist is impressed with the mammoth barns of 
this region; luxuriant crops of tobacco are of special 
note. The Conestoga River, with its affluents, drains 
an area of 315 square miles, it is crossed by many 
bridges. On the border of the city limits is a nine arch 
stone bridge, built by Abraham Witmer in 1800, 
which leads the Lincoln Highway over the Conestoga. 
At Pequea is St. John’s Protestant Episcopal Church, 
according to a quaint old Vestry Book “Built of wood 
in 1729, to perform Divine Adoration. . . after ye 
manner of ye Episcopal Church of England,” the 
itinerant missionaries of the Society for the Propaga- 
tion of the Gospel of England holding service; corner- 

(183) 


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LANCASTER COUNTY 


(184) 


LANCASTER COUNTY 185 


stone of present church building was laid by Bishop 
Onderdonk, the rector at that time being Rev. Edward 
Young Buchanan, brother of President James Buch- 
anan; the parish possesses two vestry books of great 
historic value. 

Most famous group of historic buildings are those 
erected by the Seventh Day Baptists, founded by 
Conrad Beisel in 1722, at EPHRATA, on the Cocalico; 
monastery still in original condition, with cells and 
rooms; and the adjoining chapel little changed; the 
brothers and sisters lived, each in their narrow cell, 
like monks of the Middle Ages; a printing press was 
set up in 1743, on which were printed the largest books 
in America prior to 1860; first Sunday schools in 
America were said to have been started here in 1740; 
and Henry William Steigel introduced glass making. 
Joining the Cloister Settlement is Clare Point Stock 
Farm, now occupied by the Redemptorist Fathers, a 
Roman Catholic order, founded in 1732 by St. 
Alphonsus Maria Leguori, in Italy; of strict discipline 
and singleness of purpose, designed to work among 
neglected country people; this is their only mission in 
Pennsylvania. 

County seat, LANCASTER, 418 feet above sea, popula- 
tion 538,150; laid out by Governor Gordon in 1730: 
near by is the Conestoga River, named by Conestoga 
Indians, a tribe of the Delawares; the Dutch who 
lived here invented the wagon, with big covered tops, 
drawn by six horses, and named it for the river. It is 
said that here was first given to Washington the title 
“Des Landes Vater.”” This is a square city, lines run 
north and south, east and west, with outlying districts; 


186 LANCASTER COUNTY 


one, Rossmere, was named in honor of George Ross, 
a signer of the Declaration of Independence. 

The Continental Congress arrived here from Phila- 
delphia the very day Sir William Howe entered that 
city; the next day they moved to York. This was the 
Capital of the State from 1799-1812, and birthplace of 
Simon Snyder, Governor of Pennsylvania 1808-1817. 
In center of Penn Square is a monument to soldiers and 
sailors of the Civil War. One block away is the court 
house, on East King Street, built about 1850; architect, 
Samuel Sloan; Corinthian; contains portraits of Hon. 
Isaac E. Hiester by Isaac Williams, and Hon. W. U. 
Hensel by Lazare Raditz, Philadelphia. Jail, East | 
King Street, Norman castellated, red sandstone, built, 
1850, architect, John Haviland. Fountain, East 
King Street, on reservoir grounds, made, 1905, memo- 
rial to John Williamson Nevin; bronze lion, sculptor, 
Blanche Nevin. 

Michael Schlatter and Henry Melchior Muhlen- 
berg, leaders of the Reformed and Lutheran Germans, 
were in favor of higher education, and established 
Franklin College in 1787, forming the beginning of 
Franklin and Marshall College; built on an eminence 
west of city; main building Elizabethan, brick, built, 
1854-55, with beautiful entrance door, contains por- 
traits. In the Watts de Peyster Library are bronze 
busts of the father and mother of General de Peyster. 
St. Stephen’s Chapel has memorial window to Rev. 
John W. Nevin, D.D., LL.D., made by Armstrong, 
New York. On the campus is bronze heroic statue 
of Abraham de Peyster, made in New York, 1895, 
replica of one facing New York Custom House. The 


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LANCASTER COUNTY 187 


scientific building contains oil paintings, among them 
one by J. D. Wiltkamp, “‘The Three Women of Gréve- 
Coeur.” Buchanan Park, opened, 1905, joins the 
college campus and grounds of the Reformed Theo- 
logical Seminary. ‘‘Wheatland,’”’ residence of Presi- 
dent James Buchanan, is near, on Marietta Pike, 
colonial, brick, built prior to 1812. St. Joseph’s 
Hospital and Roman Catholic Church are near 
college; hospital contains portrait of Henry E. Muhl- 
enberg, M.D., by Caroline Peart Brinton; the church 
windows are from Munich and Innspruck. 

Among Lancaster’s numerous churches are, the 
Moravian, West Orange Street, rear part stone, built, 
1750, oldest in the city, brick front added, 1820. First 
Reformed, East Orange Street, brick; Romanesque; 
built, 1852-54; two steeples, contains lectern and 
other pieces of woodcarving by A. Lang of Oberam- 
mergau, nephew of Anton Lang, made, 1905; 
decorations by J. F. Lamb, New York; windows from 
Tiffany and D’Ascenzo studios; bronze memorial 
tablet by Martha Hovenden. St. James Protestant 
Episcopal, corner of East Orange and North Duke 
Streets, Norman, brick; main walls built, 1820, added 
to 1870 and 1910; chancel windows from England, 
others by Lamb and the Tiffany Studios, New York; 
oil painting, “The Crucifixion,” artist, Jacob Eicholtz; 
pictorial tile base at altar, by Dr. Henry Mercer; in 
parish house is fifteenth century oil painting, Urbanean 
School. St. Anthony’s Roman Catholic, East Orange 
Street, bronze altar and statues from Oux et Cie, 
Paris; frescoes by Ludwig Reingruber are adaptations 
of old masters. Trinity Lutheran, South Duke Street, 


188 LANCASTER COUNTY 


brick; fine old Georgian style, compares with Christ 
Church, Philadelphia; built, 1761; tower and spire 
added, 1794; wood sculpture, four evangelists, at 
base of tower; original pipe organ built, 1771, was 
utilized in new organ; memorial windows by the 
Tiffany Company, and by Joseph Lauber, New York 
City. 

Fulton Opera House, Prince Street between Orange 
and West King Streets, on site of massacre of Con- 
estoga Indians by Paxtang boys in 1763, over 
entrance, life-size statue, carved wood, of Robert 
Fulton, made, 1852, sculptor, Hugh Cannon: the 
Lancaster County Historical Society placed a tablet 
on the wall of Robert Fulton’s birthplace, built, 1765; 
southern part of Lancaster County, Fulton Township, 
A. Herr Smith, Memorial Free Library, North Duke 
Street; Italian villa style; contains portraits of 
notable men identified with Lancaster County. Post 
Office and Revenue Building, North Duke Street, 
Italian Renaissance; Indiana limestone; built by 
United States Government. Guaranty Trust Com- 
pany, North Duke Street, Ionic, marble, built, 1912. 
The Henry G. Long Asylum, corner of Marietta and 
West End Avenues, contains two portraits by Jacob 
Hicholtz. The Iris Club, founded by Miss Alice 
Nevin, has annual exhibition of paintings. 

In Woodward Hill Cemetery, southern part of city, 
on the Conestoga, is tomb of President James 
Buchanan. Greenwood Cemetery, end of South 
Queen Street, has stone entrance, made, 1895, by 
Rothenberger. Tomb of Thaddeus Stevens, white 
and black marble and granite, is in Shreiner burial 


LANCASTER COUNTY 189 


ground. West Chestnut Street, corner of Shippen 
and Ross Streets, is inclosure and small brick monu- 
ment topped by stone sphere, site of George Ross’s 
mansion. Bountiful markets held on the curbs, as 
well as in the market houses, are a distinctive and 
picturesque feature of the town; the presence of the 
Mennonite, Amish, and other sects lends a peculiar 
aspect to the scene. 

Near Rockford, south, is brick colonial mansion, 
built before 1775, residence of the Revolutionary 
general, Edward Hand, marked with tablet by local 
Historical Society. The birthplace of Dr. David 
Ramsey, historian, built, 1749, is still standing. 
Williamson Park, end of South Drake Street, on 
Conestoga River, acquired by gift in 1902, has wild 
scenic beauty. Long’s Park on Harrisburg Pike, two 
miles from city, acquired by gift, scenic, opened, 1908. 
Between Mount Joy and Maytown is Donegal Pres- 
byterian Church, built prior to the Revolution, a 
quaint building with gambrel roof; interesting burial 
ground with the witness tree; Cameron family bury 
here. 

DONEGAL was an early Scotch-Irish settlement. 
Under the oak witness tree the “Sons of Donegal’’ 
dedicated their lives to their country in the Revolu- 
tionary War. ‘Tablet records their names, among 
them James Stephenson, 1770, whose granddaughter 
Sarah married David McKinley, ancestor of President 
William McKinley. 

LITITZ, settled by Moravians, 1748, has Moravian 
boarding school for girls, “Linden Hall,” founded, 
1749; in the town park are the famous Lititz Springs; 


190 LANCASTER COUNTY 


Lititz is also famous for pretzels, first made by William 
Rauch in 1710. 

MANHEIM, laid out by Henry William Steigel, 1762, 
was named for his German home town; here he built 
a large glass factory, first in the United States; skilled 
workmen from Europe were employed; a few rare 
specimens of this glass, owned by collectors, show 
fineness of quality, richness of color, and a peculiar 
bell-like ring, some specimens are in the Danner 
Museum, open Tuesdays, free, to visitors, which 
outrivals'some, more noted, in the rarity and variety 
of its collections: in 1772 Steigel gave to the Luther- 
ans at Manheim a piece of ground on which to build 
a church; payment to be five shillings and an annual 
rental of one red rose; on the second Sunday in June, 
crowds attend the Baron Steigel Memorial Church, 
and at these services a descendant of the Steigels 
receives the red rose; the chancel is often filled with 
red roses dropped there individually as a tribute; in 
1752 Steigel had married a daughter of John Jacob 
Huber, who owned a small iron furnace near Bricker- 
ville, he purchased land and became interested in 
several furnaces, one he named for his wife, “Eliza- 
beth”; the Elizabeth furnace, in 1776, came into 
possession of Robert Coleman of Lebanon, in 1777 it 
was overtaxed with large orders of shot and shell for 
the Continental Army, and the government sent 
about two hundred Hessian prisoners, taken at 
Trenton, to work there; many remained and became 
good citizens. Mr. Coleman’s residence was at 
Elizabeth furnace, here he entertained Washington as 
his guest, who, at his request, sat for a portrait to 


LANCASTER COUNTY 191 


Gilbert Stuart, which is now owned by B. Dawson 
Coleman, Esq. 

Lancaster County furnaces in the Conestoga Valley, 
Caernarvon Township, were owned by David Jones in 
1736; old mines are still there that bear his name; 
in 1743 David Branson built the Windsor forges, in 
the same township; among his partners was Lynford 
Lardner, who married his daughter Rebecca. On the 
banks of Furnace Run, near Colemanville, may be 
seen an old cinder heap, which is all that remains of 
the Martic Furnace, built 1751-52 on 3400 acres of 
land, with the usual houses and shops; during the 
Revolution, round iron was drawn under the hammer 
at the forge, and bored out for musket barrels; negro 
slaves were always employed here; among the past 
owners of this furnace, from 1777-938, was a Philadelphia 
merchant, Michael Hillegas, who became first Con- 
tinental treasurer in 1775; in 1777 he was appointed 
first treasurer of the United States and continued in 
that office until 1789. 

Near, just below Safe Harbor, in the Susquehanna 
River, is Indian Rock, with a number of inscriptions 
on it, the writing may be seen when water is low; 
same writing is found in Beaver County. The bridge 
over the Susquehanna River from Columbia to 
Wrightsville has been replaced several times, one 
was burned to stem the tide of the Confederates. 
At Elizabethtown are the Masonic Homes of Penn- 
sylvania, on 982 acres, with Grand Lodge Hall, 437 
feet long by 160.feet wide, seventeen dwelling houses, 
and other buildings. Georgian architecture, designed 
by Zantzinger, Borie and Medary. 


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(192) 


V 
YORK COUNTY 


ORMED August 9, 1749; named for the House of 
York, England. An agricultural region of great 
fertility. First authorized settlements were made 

in 1733. Before the white settlers came, the territory 
west of the Susquehanna River was hunting ground 
for the Conestoga Indians, a branch of the Mohawks, 
who migrated to New York State about 1750; also 
for the Susquehannocks and Conewagos, who had their 
village at present site of York Haven. When a treaty 
with the Indians at Albany, in 1736, gave Penn’s heirs 
right to the territory from west of the Susquehanna to 
the South Mountain, immigrants from Europe flocked 
into York County, in vast numbers, and proved a 
strong and influential part of the population. During 
the colonial period four companies of soldiers from this 
county assisted in driving the French and Indians 
from the western part of the province before 1758. 

At beginning of the Revolutionary War it is said that 
the first military company from Pennsylvania that 
arrived at Washington’s headquarters, siege of Boston, 
in 1775, shortly after Battle of Bunker Hill, were from 
York County; this company, and one commanded by 
Captain Morgan of Virginia, were first American 
troops to use rifles; they became the terror of the 
British regulars, who still used the old-time flint musket. 
When the British attacked New York City and the 
Battle of Long Island followed, Pennsylvania troops 
(193) 


194 YORK COUNTY 


camped at Perth Amboy; here two regiments from 
York County were formed out of the militia; and 
became a part of the Flying Camp, a body of ten thou- 
sand men from Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Maryland, 
which joined Washington before the Battle of White 
,Plains; they were also in the battles of Princeton 
and Trenton. Colonel Thomas Hartley, a member of 
York County bar, commanded a brigade under Wash- 
ington at battles of Brandywine and Germantown; 
and after the Revolution he represented York County 
in Congress for twelve years; he was first member of 
the Pennsylvania bar to be admitted to the Supreme 
Court of the United States. President Washington 
was entertained in his house in 1791, site marked by 
tablet. 

Shortly before the Battle of Brandywine, Septem- 
ber 27, 1777, the Continental Congress adjourned 
from Independence Hall to meet in Lancaster; they 
were there one day, then crossed the Susquehanna 
and made YORKTOWN the seat of government until 
June 27, 1778, when they returned to Philadelphia. 
Twenty-five Congressmen came on horseback over the 
old Monocacy Road, and took up quarters in the town 
and vicinity. The personnel of Congress was con- 
stantly changing; no less than sixty-four different 
members were present from first to last. The man- 
sion, corner of Center Square, where the Colonial 
Hotel now stands, had been rented to General Rober- 
deau; quarters were found there for the leading Con- 
gressmen, Adams, Lee, Harrison, Laurens, and others. 
John Adams, in letters to his wife Abigail, complained 
of his straitened quarters, and the Dutch cooking. 


YORK COUNTY 195 


James Smith, a signer of the Declaration of Independ- 
ence, gave his law office in Center Square to be used 
by the Committee of Foreign Affairs; and the Board 
of War. 

The noted chest of papers, belonging to Congress, 
which John Adams declared ‘‘was worth more than 
Congress itself,” was kept by Thomas Paine at the 
Cooke’s House, a house of entertainment, still stand- 
ing, in the bend of Codorus Creek, then away from 
town; here he wrote parts five and six of ‘‘ The Crisis.” 
On September 30, 1777, with John Hancock as Presi- 
dent of Congress, the first session was held in the 
brick court house, built, 1756; site marked by York- 
town Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution; 
soon after Congress assembled here, news was brought 
of the surrender of Burgoyne to General Gates, with 
six thousand British and Hessian troops, at Saratoga. 
A motion, made by Richard Henry Lee of Virginia, to 
set apart a day for Thanksgiving was unanimously 
adopted; Thursday, December 18, 1777, was appointed, 
and a few days later this historic document was 
written, and sent by post riders to the governors of 
each of the thirteen original states; this was the first 
national Thanksgiving proclamation in America, in 
the sense of its observation, on the same date, by the 
thirteen states. 

Soon after, General Lafayette arrived in Yorktown 
and was received in open session by Congress; the 
victory of General Gates had made him the hero of 
the hour; Washington had been defeated at Brandy- 
wine and Germantown, and gone into winter quarters 
at Valley Forge; knowing that a large number of the 


14 


196 YORK COUNTY 


delegates in Congress at Yorktown favored a plan to 
displace him from the head of the army, and promote 
General Gates to that position, Washington never 
visited Congress here; he wrote a private letter to 
Robert Morris, saying, “If Congress adjourns, sine 
die, I wish it understood, I will oppose British inva- 
sion, in the mountains of Pennsylvania and Virginia, 
rather than give up our cause for Independence, pro- 
mulgated July 4, 1776”; this historic letter was read 
at an open meeting in Zion Reformed Church. 

Congress called General Gates to York, and made 
him President of the Board of War; he gave a banquet 
at his headquarters; among the guests was Lafayette, 
twenty-one years of age; speeches were made favoring 
the promotion of Gates to position of general in chief 
of the army, when Lafayette arose and offered the fol- 
lowing toast: “To General George Washington, head 
of the American Army; may he continue to hold that 
position until a Treaty of Peace is signed with Eng- 
land, acknowledging the freedom of this country, in 
whose cause I am listed for its defense.” It was 
this incident that caused the collapse of the Conway 
Cabal, instigated by General Conway, opponent of 
Washington and friend of Gates. 

Lafayette visited York in 1825, then sixty-eight 
years old, and last surviving Major General of the 
Revolution; he stopped overnight at McGrath’s 
Hotel, on site of the Rupp Building, where a reception 
and banquet were given him; among the toasts was, 
“Lafayette, we love him as a man, hail him as a 
deliverer, revere him as a champion of freedom, and 
welcome him as a guest’’; to which he responded, 


YORK COUNTY 197 


“The Town of York, the seat of our American Union 
in our most gloomy time; may her citizens enjoy a 
proportionate share of American prosperity.” 

At request of Washington, Baron Steuben came to 
Yorktown early in 1778, and was immediately ap- 
pointed to the rank of major-general; from here he 
went to Valley Forge and began to drill and disci- 
pline the Army, in the military tactics used by Fred- 
erick the Great. In May, 1778, a nephew of General 
Putnam, who crossed the Atlantic in the Mercury, a 
fast flying vessel of Congress, which landed at Ports- 
mouth, New Hampshire, brought a letter to Henry 
Laurens of South Carolina, President of Congress, 
from Benjamin Franklin, saying, ‘The King of France 
has resolved to send $600,000 in silver, an army and a 
fleet, to aid the Americans in their struggle for Liberty.” 
The Articles of Confederation were formed here, and 
adopted in Philadelphia the following June. Much 
Continental money was ordered by Congress, which 
was printed in a house, at the corner of Market and 
Beaver Streets, marked by tablet. 

Penn Park has a soldiers’ monument, to men of 
York County in Civil War; this has been the scene of 
many military gatherings; several insubordinates of 
the Pennsylvania line were shot here, by order of Gen- 
eral Wayne, before the forces under him marched to 
Virginia; and large hospitals were built here during 
the Civil War, when York County was the high-water 
mark of the Southern Confederacy. On June 28, 1863, 
General Jubal Early of Virginia, with 10,000 Confed- 
erate troops, took possession of York. John B. Gordon, 
leading a brigade of Georgia troops, was first to enter 
town; he marched on to Wrightsville with twenty- 


198 YORK COUNTY 


eight hundred men, where a skirmish took place, and 
when the bridge across the Susquehanna was burned 
by the Union forces on the Lancaster County side; 
Early remained in York two days, with four brigades, 
and received word to fall back immediately to Gettys- 
burg. The first engagement took place in the streets 
of HANOVER, between Confederate cavalry under 
Stuart, who were defeated by Union cavalry under 
Kilpatrick; they were prevented from reaching Gettys- 
burg until evening of second day of battle, which prob- 
ably turned the tide in favor of the Union; this event 
is commemorated in the Center Square by a statue, 
that ranks with the best Art in Pennsylvania, a cav- 
alryman, bronze; sculptor, Cyrus E. Dallim, Boston. 

YORK, county seat; population 47,512; is oldest 
town in Pennsylvania west of the Susquehanna; the 
general plan embraced streets forming perfect squares, 
with widened space in center of town, junction of Mar- 
ket and George Streets, for market purposes; these 
privileges are still used. Court house in east Market 
Street, classic; porch with granite Ionic columns; 
built, 1903; architect, J. A. Dempwolf; contains 
portraits of York County judges; Museum of York 
County Historical Society, open every afternoon except 
Sunday; has large collection of Indian implements, of 
war and peace; and etchings by Rosenthal. An 
annual art exhibition is held in York. Post Office, 
classic, Ionic. Among the many places of worship, 
several now standing were erected more than one 
hundred years ago, including St. John’s Episcopal, 
in which is tablet to Colonel Thomas Hartley. In 
burial ground of First Presbyterian Church is tomb 
of James Smith, the signer, who died, 1806; another 





CAVALRY STATUE, ERECTED IN 1904, CENTER SQUARE, 
; HANOVER 


Cyrus E. Dellam, Sculptor 








YORK COUNTY 199 


signer, Philip Livingston, of New York, who died 
while Congress was in session here, is buried in 
Prospect Hill Cemetery, where also are the tombs of 
General William B. Franklin of the Civil War; his 
brother Rear Admiral Samuel R. Franklin; Judge Jere- 
miah §. Black; and several hundred Civil War soldiers. 

In mentioning the notable men of York, we must 
include Colonel Hance Hamilton, first sheriff of York 
County in 1750; Colonel Richard McAllister, founder 
of Hanover, first President Justice of the County Courts 
under the Constitution of 1776, and later President of 
the Supreme Executive Council of Pennsylvania; 
James Ross, born, 1762, served two terms in the United 
States Senate, making there an eloquent speech favor- 
ing the Louisiana Purchase, which led to its result; 
and Senator Matthew S. Quay, born in Dillsburg, 1833, 
whose father was pastor of the Presbyterian Church. 
Other places marked by tablet are, site of building of 
the Franklin Press, where valuable papers were pub- 
lished during the Revolution, and building of General 
Anthony Wayne’s headquarters. 

In 1761, the Mary Ann Furnace was built on Furnace 
Creek; at the same time a road was cut from there, 
to connect with the road to the Conewago settlement 
leading to Baltimore; the furnace was started by 
George Ross of Lancaster, the signer, his brother-in- 
law, George Stevenson, a lawyer of York County, and 
William Thompson, later a general in the Revolution; 
and continued for fifty years, under other owners; 
besides making pig iron, stoves, and household iron 
ware, cannon balls and grapeshot were cast here. 
The Spring Creek Forge was erected by George Ross, 
previous to 1772, and was active many years. 


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(200) 


VI 


CUMBERLAND COUNTY 


ORMED January 27,1750; named for county of 
} Cumberland, England. One of the two or three 
rich agricultural valleys in the United States. 
Early industries were iron furnaces and forges. First 
settlers, Scotch-Irish, men of stout heart and wonderful 
nerve; almost contemporaneous with their building forts 
and providing means of protection for themselves and 
families, they established Presbyterian churches, the 
fine springs of the valley being selected as sites, namely, 
Silver Springs Church, nine miles west of the Susque- 
hanna; Trindle Spring, now a Lutheran Church; Meet- 
ing House Spring, now First Presbyterian Church of 
Carlisle; curious old carvings are in Meeting House 
Springs burial ground; Big Spring Church, at New- 
ville; and Middle Spring Church, above Shippensburg, 
a monument to Revolutionary soldiers is here; all con- 
tinue in active existence. The early pioneer coun- 
tenanced the institution of slavery, at one period as 
many as 307 negroes were held as slaves in this county, 
the last of them in 1840; on November 1, 1780, an act 
was passed, directing that all slaves and those held as 
such in Pennsylvania should be registered; but there- 
after all should be free men and women. 
SHIPPENSBURG, population 4872, first permanent 
settlement in the county, founded in 1730, was the 
only town on the line of the “Great Road” when it 
was laid out from John Harris’ Ferry, on the Susque- 
(201) 


202 CUMBERLAND COUNTY 


hanna, to the Potomac, from 1735-44: this road was 
the first effort to connect the wilderness west of the 
Susquehanna with the civilization in the earler settle- 
ments. First bridge erected in the county was over 
Letort Spring, on east Main Street, Carlisle, about 
1780, replaced in 1795 by a stone bridge; several stone 
arch bridges are over the Yellow Breeches Creek; at 
the eastern end is Miller’s Mill bridge, over one hun- 
dred years old, three arch stone, in good condition; 
Alexander’s bridge is one mile north of Carlisle on the 
Conodoguinet Creek, colonial with wooden cover, one 
span, is very old. 

County seat, CARLISLE, named for shiretown of 
Cumberland County, England; population 10,916; 
the town is laid off at right angles, with a large public 
square in center; Bellair Park on the banks of Cono- 
doguinet Creek is one mile from center of town; Lind- 
ner Park faces Franklin and Louther Streets, five 
squares from center; Mount Holly and Boiling Springs 
Parks are outlying, reached by trolley. The court- 
house faces Center Square, Corinthian, Bryant & Witt, 
architects, built, 1846, one of the portico columns shows 
marks, in broken flutings, of the shelling of Carlisle, 
captured by General Lee, during the Civil War; con- 
tains portraits of judges of the local court. First Pres- 
byterian Church also faces Center Square, main audi- 
torium built in 1757, Greco-Roman, blue limestone 
with white marble linings, showing early bonding in 
stone masonry; tower added and parish house built, 
1873. The Young Men’s Christian Association half 
square from Center, on High Street, French Renais- 
sance, built, 1908; architect, M. I. Kast, Harrisburg. ' 


CUMBERLAND COUNTY 203 


County jail, one square from Center, corner High and 
Bedford Streets, Tudor, built, 1854, brownstone, is 
a small copy of the Castle of Carlisle, England, note 
the limestone arch in east wall of the yard; architects, 
Myers & Gutshall. Post office, two Squares from 
Center, corner of Pitt and Louther Streets, classic 
Renaissance, built, 1909, J. Knox Taylor, architect, 
Washington, D. C. Historical Society, corner of Pitt 
Street and Dickinson Avenue, brick, built 1878-80, 
architect, George Rice, contains historical library, 
papers, and museum. 

DICKINSON COLLEGE on campus of seven acres, 
with law school one square south, Conway Hall one 
square west, and the Herman Bosler Biddle Memorial 
Athletic Field, with colonial gateway, made in 1909, 
architect, H. E. Yessler, three Squares west; Main 
Building, “Old West,” built, 1803: blue limestone 
mellowed by time, with facade of fine proportions; 
arched doorways and windows; architect, Colonel 
Latrobe, first government engineer and architect, 
brought from England; auditorium contains portraits 
of John Dickinson, Dr. Nisbet, and others; the James 
W. Bosler Memorial Hall; Romanesque; built in 
1885; George Rice, architect; contains portraits 
of notable alumni, including President James Buchanan 
and Dr. Benjamin Rush, also marble bust of James 
Bosler, and fine copy of Salvator Rosa’s “The Con- 
spiracy of Cataline,” original in the Pitti Palace, 
Florence; the J. Herman Bosler Memorial Library, 
architects, Baldwin & Pennington, Baltimore ; classic; 
built, 1899; white marble entrance vestibule, lighted 
by memorial window, Burne-Jones design, made by 


204 CUMBERLAND COUNTY 


Maitland Armstrong & Company; Denny Memorial 
Recitation Hall, Collegiate Gothic, built, 1905, M. I. 
Kast, architect. . 

St. John’s Protestant Episcopal Church faces Center 
Square, has memorial altar, white marble, with Caen 
stone reredos, and windows made by Maitland Arm- 
strong & Company; First Lutheran Church, one 
square east of Center, corner of High and Bedford 
Streets; Italian Renaissance; yellow brick, black and 
white trimmings; built, 1900; J. A. Dempwolf, archi- 
tect, York, Pennsylvania. The second Presbyterian 
Church, corner of Hanover and Pomfret Streets; 
Gothic; built, 1869, has memorial window over door, 
Moorish design; and fine fretwork choir rail. St. 
Patrick’s Catholic Church; east Pomfret Street, 
has rose window of Tiffany glass; and other windows 
from Munich; also memorial marble altar. 

Ashland Cemetery, York Street, nearly a mile east 
from Center, contains bronze statue, ‘Angel and 
Child,”’ made by Lamb & Co., in James W. Bosler’s 
lot. The “Old Grave Yard,” three squares from 
Center, on east South Street, contains Mollie Pitcher’s 
grave and monument; bronze portrait figure standing, 
on granite pedestal, with bronze reliefs of battle scenes 
extended on both sides; sculptor, J. R. Schweizer, 
Philadelphia; a Civil War cannon is in front; old 
English and German carvings from the year 1700 are 
in this cemetery. At Mount Rock, five miles west 
of Carlisle, is the Ionic Monument, in memory of 
Governor Ritner from 1835-39; erected by the 
state in 1902; architect, J. W. Ely, Mechanicsburg, 
Pennsylvania. 


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DICKINSON COLLEGE, “OLD WEST,” CARLISLE 





CUMBERLAND COUNTY 205 


THE INDIAN SCHOOL, one mile northeast from 
Center, was formerly a military post, buildings were 
destroyed by Fitz Hugh Lee in 1863, excepting the 
old guard house, built by the Hessian prisoners during 
the Revolution, in 1777; this was the original “West 
Point” for the training of officers and artisans, and 
for the manufacture of arms and munitions. In 177 6, 
and throughout the War, anthracite coal was taken 
down the Susquehanna River from the Wyoming 
mines to the armory at Carlisle, said to have been the 
first shipment of anthracite coal in this country; 
there are now about twenty-five or thirty buildings, 
brick, of varied architecture, on twenty-five acres of 
ground; gateway, Georgian, M. I. Kast, architect, 
built, 1910; native Indian art is on exhibition in the 
Leupp studio. George Washington joined the army 
of 15,000 men, as Commander in Chief, at Carlisle, 
for suppression of the Whiskey Insurrection in 1794; 
he was the guest of Ephraim Blaine; the army was 
located on the opposite side of the town from the 
military post. 

The Civic Club of Carlisle is placing classic art 
prints in the public-school buildings. Interesting 
colonial houses: residence of Ephraim Blaine, built, 
1795, now law office and dwelling of Edward Stiles, 
built, 1815; of Stephen Duncan, built, 1815, used by 
the Fraternity of Owls; and that of Isaac B. Parker, 
built, 1820, the home of the Elks. 

In 1762, Richard Peters of Philadelphia obtained a 
patent for 388 acres of land at Boiling Springs, and 
executed a deed to John S. Rigby & Co., for twenty- 
nine acres on which they had already commenced the 


206 CUMBERLAND COUNTY 


erection of a blast furnace, they bought two ore banks 
at the foot of South Mountain, and soon after added 
1614 acres of land, and called the property ‘Carlisle 
Iron Works”; it passed through several ownerships, 
until, in 1792, Michael Ege became sole owner; the 
furnace produced twelve to fifteen tons of metal a 
week, mostly pig iron, but they also cast stoves, fire 
backs, and hollow ware. William Denning, in 1776, 
made two wrought iron cannon in Mount Holly Gap, 
about six miles south of Carlisle, the first ever made; 
one in use at the Battle of Brandywine was captured 
by the British and deposited finally in the Tower of 
London; the British Government offered a large sum 
of money and an annuity to William Denning, to 
instruct them how to make wrought iron cannon, but 
he refused; he died in 1830, age ninety-three, at his 
home near Newville, his monument there, given by the 
state, shows a square marble base surmounted by a 
cannon. Pine Grove Furnace was built on Mountain 
Creek, halfway between Carlisle and Gettysburg, the 
recorded ownership dates from a proprietary grant in 
1762 for 450 acres on Mountain Creek to Thomas Pope; 
it is now part of the State Forestry reservation. 


VII 
NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 


ORMED March 11, 1752; named by Thomas 
}%) Penn; prior to the Revolution comprised all 

the northeast section of Pennsylvania; chief 
industries, Bethlehem Iron and Steel Works, where 
15,000 men are employed day and night; silk mills, 
graphite works, and other manufactories. Here were 
Washington’s storehouses along the Delaware River, 
with supplies for all branches of the army; a point of 
attack by the British battling between West Point and 
Trenton, buildings are still in evidence. The famous 
backwoods rifles used by two thousand Pennsylvanians 
against the British at Boston were made here. 

County seat, EASTON, founded by Thomas Penn, 
1751; at “The Forks of the Delaware, where the 
water is deep and smooth,” population 33,813. In cen- 
ter of the public square is the monument to soldiers of 
this county in the Civil War, on site of the old North- 
ampton court house that stood for a hundred years; 
on its threshold was promulgated the Declaration of 
Independence, the same day as in Philadelphia; the 
old court house bell, that rang out then, is still doing 
public service. The first flag, combining stars and 
stripes, as an emblem of a new nation, was made here, 
showing thirteen eight pointed stars and thirteen 
stripes in the field, this flag is said to be the one now 
in the Easton Public Library, deposited in 1821, after 
being used in the War of 1812; in a special room of the 

(207) 


SCALE OF MILES 








NEW JERSEY 








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LEHIGH COS,’BUCKS CO. 


NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 


(208) 


NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 209 


library is the private collection of Samuel Sitgreaves, 
with rare volumes of American history. Next to Sit- 
greaves’ office was the home and shop of Henry Der- 
ringer, a gunmaker of the Revolution, whose son in- 
vented the Derringer pistol. On the public square, 
Light Horse Harry Lee, from Virginia, recruited his 
troop of Pennsylvania Germans, and horses. Valuable 
papers and moneys belonging to the state and national 
government were placed in the custody of Robert 
Levers, during British occupancy of Philadelphia. 

The old Union Church, now the Reformed, on North 
Third Street, stone, colonial, built, 1775-76, was used 
as a hospital in the Revolution; this is the principal 
residential street, and entrance to LAFAYETTE COLLEGE, 
founded, 1832, by James Madison Porter, Secretary of 
War; has interesting collection of portraits of Lafay- 
ette, in oil and black and white, also valuable old 
engravings; on the campus is statue of Lafayette, by 
Daniel Chester French, given by Morris L. Clothier, 
Esq. In the New Century Art Club, New and Porter 
Streets, lectures on art and exhibitions are given. A 
bridge leads across the Delaware to Phillipsburg, New 
Jersey, first wooden bridge built, 1797; north of the 
bridge is Riverside Park, leading to North Delaware 
Road and the Delaware Water Gap; the Wind Gap has 
precipitous sides; very beautiful scenery is on the River 
Road. 3 

In July, 1782, Washington came from Bethlehem 
to Easton. BETHLEHEM, in Lehigh County, is the 
seat of government of the Moravian economy, from 
Moravia in Bohemia, in the western hemisphere, dating 
back to 1740; these pioneers belonged to the Church 


210 NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 


of the Brethren, organized in 1457 by followers of John 
Huss about forty years after he had been burned at 
the stake for conscience’ sake; the little church was 
revived in Saxony in 1722; to this church Count 
Nicholas L. Zinzendorf granted an asylum on his own 
estate; the count visited the Brethren here in 1741. 
On July 25, 1782, Washington, with Colonel Trumbull 
and Major Welker, stayed overnight at the Sun Inn; 
Brother Ettwein and others of the Fraternity called to 
pay their respects; the Sun Inn was built in 1761, 
Peter Warbas the first host; the suite occupied by Gen- 
eral Washington and his wife is still shown to visitors. 
During the Revolution the Moravian settlement expe- 
rienced many horrors and discomforts of war; the 
tramp of armed men through its quiet streets began in 
July, 1775; in December most of the houses were taken 
for hospitals, being on the main route of travel from 
the eastern states; many distinguished soldiers were 
here, Greene, Knox, Gates, Stirling, Sullivan, Schuyler, 
von Steuben, De Kalb, Pulaski, de Chastelleux, also 
Samuel and John Adams, Hancock, Laurens, Living- 
ston, Boudinot, Reed, Rittenhouse, Gerard; in autumn 
of 1777, Lafayette, under careful nursing of a Moravian 
sister, Liesel Beckel, rapidly recovered from a wound 
received in the Battle of Brandywine. General hospital 
of thé Continental Army was here, 1776-78. 

The Moravian Church, plain and dignified architec- 
ture, after a German model, is full of sunlight within, 
contains Moravian archives and Schussele’s large oil 
painting, ‘Power of the Gospel,” showing Zeisberger 
preaching to the Indians; the organ and vocal music is 
exceptionally fine. The Moravian College and Semi- 


NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 211 


nary for young women includes instruction in house- 
keeping; moral training is a particular feature. The 
Widows’ house, built, 1768, endowed by John J ordan, 
Jr., Philadelphia, for widows and daughters of Mora- 
vian ministers and other women who have served the 
church. The Sisters’ house, formerly first Brethren’s 
house, was used for home of unmarried women of 
advanced age; now a boarding house. Second Broth- 
ers’ house, where unmarried men could live and still] 
gain independent support, is now “Colonial Hall,” a 
part of the Seminary. Corpse house still stands with 
its weeping willow tree; because of the small rooms of 
the houses, the body was taken from the home to the 
corpse house for three days; the trombone choir an- 
nounced a death from the church steeple by a particular 
choral that designated whether it was for man, woman, 
or child; at the burial the trombone choir met the 
procession at the cemetery gate and took part in the 
service at the grave; in the Moravian burial ground are 
graves of many Indians, among them that of Uncas, 
in Cooper’s “Last of the Mohicans,” inscription, “In 
memory of Tschoop, a Mohican Indian, who, in holy 
baptism, April 16th, 1742, received the name of John, 
one of the first fruits of the mission at Wycomico, 
whereby he became a distinguished teacher among his 
nation. He departed this life in full assurance of faith 
at Bethlehem, August 27, 1746.” The graves are in 
rows, sisters and brothers separate, with small stone 
markers. Bethlehem had the second waterworks sys- 
tem in the United States, 1760. 

A covered wooden bridge over one hundred years 
old, to be replaced by modern structure, crosses the 

15 


212 NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 


Lehigh River to SouTH BETHLEHEM, Northampton 
County, seat of Lehigh University, built, 1866; in 
1865, Asa Packer gave $500,000 for founding a free 
technical college for boys in South Bethlehem, largest 
single benefaction any American college had received 
up to this time; this was the beginning of Lehigh Uni- 
versity, opened the following year; later a classical 
department was opened at Mr. Packer’s direction, who 
gave the University $1,500,000 during his life, and 
left it by will another $1,500,000, to ease the struggle 
upwards of boys with whose ambitions he sympathized; 
this University is particularly noted for its course in 
engineering, with the Fritz Engineering Laboratory, 
endowed with over $1,000,000; there are also a gymna- 
sium with swimming pool, and a stadium. 

The BacH FESTIVAL, announced by the trombone 
players from the tower of Lehigh University Chapel, 
has been held annually since 1911, first performance 
was in 1888. In 1780, the settlement had an orchestra, 
said to be the first in America, flutes, horns, viols, and 
trombones were permanent factors in their church 
music, which undoubtedly led up to the present devel- 
opment; frequently referred to as the American Bay- 
reuth; a quartet of trombones summoning the people, 
as do the trumpets in Germany; in 1901, the Christmas 
Oratorio was given in its entirety, first in America; 
they have also given the Passion, and the Mass in B 
Minor; J. Frederick Wolle, pupil of Rheinberger, 
organist of the Lutheran Church, has charge of the 
music; choir consists of 200 voices, natives of Bethle- 
hem, excepting leading soloists; the orchestra and 
instrumental soloists vary, the Philadelphia Orchestra 


NORTHAMPTON COUNTY 213 


has played here. Location of Bethlehem is scenically 
quite as beautiful as Eisenach in the Thuringian forest, 
where the famous Wartburg, with memories of Tann- 
haeuser, Bach, and Luther attract thousands of tour-_ 
ists and pilgrims. In NAZARETH are old stockaded 
forts of the Indian wars, where were maintained 365 
settlers from beyond the mountains, now used by the 
Moravian Historical Society for their collection of 
relics, curios, and portraits of noted Indians. Whit- 
field house, built, 1755, old English, contains Moravian 
Historical Collection; Nazareth Hall, built, 1748, was 
school for young men. At Boulton, near Nazareth, is 
Benjamin West’s first tragic painting, “Death of 
Socrates.” 


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(214) 


VIII 


BERKS COUNTY 


ORMED March 11, 1752; reduced to present 
/*) limits, 1811; named for Berkshire, England, 

where Penn family had large estates; has broad, 
fertile plains and valleys, intermingled with rough hills 
and mountains containing mineral wealth iniron. First 
settlers were Germans, and Friends from England, 
1704-12, among whom was George Boone, ancestor of 
Daniel Boone of Kentucky, who was born here, in 
Exeter Township, 1735. Mordecai Lincoln, great-great- 
grandfather of Abraham Lincoln, also lived in Exeter 
Township; he owned one thousand acres of land, had 
interest in iron forges; and built a small stone house in 
1733, that now forms one end of the present homestead, 
which remained in the Lincoln family until 1912; the 
Lincoln men of Berks County were all men of note, 
several holding public positions; one, Abraham, 
married Anna Boone; he died, 1806. 

In 1729, Conrad Weiser came over with Germans 
from the Palatinate and settled near Womelsdorf, 
where he is buried in the family burial ground; marked 
by boulder; his granddaughter was married to the 
“Patriarch” Henry Melchoir Muhlenberg; farm and 
burial ground of Conrad Weiser, purchased by the 
Burks County Historical Society, is to be maintained 
as a Memorial Park. The Dutch came in 1730; 
their descendants still reside on their ancestral estates; 
they named the river, flowing through the county, 

(215) 


216 BERKS COUNTY 


Schuylkill (hidden creek); Indian name was Man- 
ai-unk. When war was declared between England 
and France, the French found the Indians eager to 
join them against the British, and after Braddock’s 
defeat at Fort Duquesne in 1755, they devastated 
these peaceful settlers, by fire and slaughter, until 
1778, when they were driven beyond the Alleghenies. 
This region has become famous for wine making; vines 
are grown on Mount Penn, Neversink, and the Alsace 
Mountain slopes; over fifty years ago, George L. 
Reiniger left the fertile vineyards of Wurtemberg and 
settled here, where the soil, scenery, and environment 
seemed so much like the fatherland; these vineyards 
are now used for the cultivation of dahlias. 

READING, county seat; population 107,784; was 
laid out in 1748 by agents of Richard and Thomas Penn; 
named for Reading, in Berkshire, England. Court- 
house on Penn Common, Fifth and Penn Streets, built, 
1762; present building in 1840, on north Sixth Street; 
colonial with Ionic porch; cupola eighty-four feet above 
the roof. In the park are equestrian statue of General 
David McMurtrie Gregg, by H. Augustus Lukeman, 
New York; the Firemen’s Monument; ‘The First 
Defenders’; and Frederick Lauer, all designed and 
made by P. F. Eisenbrown, Sons & Company, Read- 
ing; the bronze statue of President McKinley, reliefs 
and eagles, was designed by Edward L. A. Pausch, 
Buffalo, New York. Prison, Penn Street and Perkio- 
men Avenue, red sandstone, castellated Gothic, built, 
1846; architect, John Haviland. A two story building, 
northeast corner of Fifth Street and Penn Square, was 
built in 1764 for a tavern; Washington stayed here in 


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ls 


BERKS COUNTY 217 


1794, en route to join troops against the Whiskey Rebel- 
lion; now Farmers’ Bank; it is marked as the oldest 
building in town. The Hessian camp ground, south- 
west of Reading, is also marked. 

Trinity Church, most important Lutheran Church 
in this country, is a fine example of Georgian archi- 
tecture, northwest corner of Sixth and Washington 
Streets; was built, 1791. Christ Protestant Episcopal 
Cathedral, Gothic, brownstone; built in 1864; archi- 
tect, Potter, New York; has good windows. The 
Reading Museum and Art Gallery, Eighth and Wash- 
ington Streets, has a good collection of paintings, 
representing foreign and American artists, including 
sixty paintings given by Mrs. William Littleton 
Savage, as memorial to her parents, Mr. and Mrs. 
George DeBenneville Keim, and other works of art 
and natural history; it is open free to the public. 
The Historical Society of Berks County, 38 North 
Fourth Street, has a good historical collection. Among 
the notable artists who have lived in Reading are 
Christopher H. Shearer, represented in permanent 
collection at Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, 
Philadelphia; Benjamin F. Austrian, noted still-life 
painter, born here, 1870; James A. Benade, landscape; 
F. D. Devlan, animal painter and cartoonist; during 
the Civil War he furnished many cartoons for Frank 
Leslie’s illustrated newspaper; George Seiling, mural 
decorator, born in Bavaria, 1818, his paintings are in 
St. James’ Church,‘ The Transfiguration,” and Calvary 
Church, “Christ Bearing the Cross.” Calvary Re- 
formed Church has stone mosaic decoration in chancel 
by H. Hanley Parker. 


218 BERKS COUNTY 


Charles Evans Cemetery, acquired by gift in 1864, 
has Gothic gateway, dark sandstone; made in 1847; 
architects, Calver & Hall, Philadelphia; the chapel 
is brownstone, Gothic, built, 1854; architect, John M. 
Gries, who was a major in the Union Army, killed in 
battle of ‘Fair Oaks”; here is the Soldiers and Sailors 
Monument, with bronze tablets; erected, 1889. 

Reading was the resort of many fugitives families 
from Philadelphia while British were there in the 
winter of 1776-77, and became the scene of much 
gayety. General Mifflin, afterwards governor, had 
his country seat at Cumru, three miles southeast of 
Reading, now used as the County Almshouse and 
Hospital buildings. In the different wars of this 
country Berks County men were among the first to 
offer their services; the Ringgold Light Artillery, 
Captain James McKnight, is said to have been the 
first company that reported at Harrisburg in response 
to President Lincoln’s Proclamation in 1861, and 
was one of five Pennsylvania companies to arrive first 
at Washington in defense of the Capital. 

At Kutztown, settled by Germans in 1733, is the 
Keystone State Normal School, originally MAxa- 
TAWNY Seminary, but since 1866, the Normal School, 
enlarged after most improved models of school archi- 
tecture. Four miles distant is VIRGINSVILLE; here isa 
natural curiosity, the “Crystal Cave,” of vast dimen- 
sions, with crystal formations in every shape and 
color; it is lighted by electricity. BoOYERTOWN, with 
two large academies, and BIRDSBORO, with fine churches 
and residences, are noted for their iron furnaces. HAM- 
BURG is the home of the Berks County State Sana- 


BERKS COUNTY 219 


torium No. 8 for tuberculosis; Spanish architecture. 
Berks County has several picturesque old bridges, the 
oldest, with one arch, stone, built in 1822, spans the 
Wyomissing Creek at its mouth, opposite Reading. 
Thirteen other stone arch bridges, the longest, over 
Maiden Creek, four arches, built in 1854; and twenty- 
five wooden covered bridges, are decided artistic 
assets. 

Historic iron furnaces in Berks County are at BIRDS- 
Boro, Hay Creek Forges, built, 1740, by William 
Bird on land obtained by warrant and survey; he 
also erected Hopewell Furnace in 1759, and the Berk- 
shire Furnace in Heidelberg about 1760; his son, Mark 
Bird, inherited the property, and built Spring Forge 
and Gibraltar Forge; in 1796, John Louis Barde 
became the owner; his daughter was married to Mat- 
thew Brooke, who subsequently purchased the prop- 
erty, which has become an extensive iron works. 
COLEBROOKDALE, famous as the seat of the first blast 
furnace in Pennsylvania, was on Iron Stone Creek, 
named for the Colebrookdale furnace, in Shropshire, 
England; it was founded by Thomas Rutter and 
Thomas Potts in 1720: in 1724, the output was forty- 
eight tons of pig iron per annum, each ton valued at 
£5; this was the first furnace to cast pots, kettles, and 
other hollow ware by the use of sand moulds; it had a 
long and prosperous career. HOPEWELL, a cold blast, 
one stack furnace, employed one hundred and seventy 
men and boys, the iron ore was obtained from the Hope- 
well mine, about two miles away, water from Hopewell 
Creek formed the motive power; a dam was con- 
structed a quarter of a mile above the furnace and 


220 BERKS COUNTY 


conveyed by a race to the big water wheel; the property 
covered 5163 acres, chiefly woodland; stoves were 
cast here with much detailed design, marked with the 
name of Bird; also cannon for the Revolutionary 
Army; Hopewell furnace, although idle for many 
years, is not dismantled, and the village street of iron- 
workers’ homes is much the same as it must have been 
in early times. 

OLEY FORGE, south of the little hamlet called Oley 
Churches, and about ten miles from the confluence 
of the Manatawny and Schuylkill rivers, was organ- 
ized by John Ross in 1744, and was in active opera- 
tion for one hundred and twenty years. In 1760, a 
valuable deposit of iron ore was found in Oley Town- 
ship, and in 1765 Dietrich Welcker erected OLEY FuR- 
NACE, near the mountain; it was owned by General 
Daniel Udree during the Revolution. PINE FORGE 
was among the earliest of those erected in the Mana- 
tawny district, on land conveyed by William Penn to 
Thomas Rutter; the original patent is in possession of 
the Rutter family. There is every evidence that the 
group of early forges and furnaces had a general inter- 
change in their business affairs, as the owners of the 
plants were almost identical; William Bird, in 17338, 
was cutting wood for the use of Pine Forge, at two 
shillings ninepence a day. Ten years later we find him 
renting one-eighth of Pine Forge at £40 per annum. 

The management of the old forges was patriarchal 
in its character; grist mill, sawmill, and the village 
store were all under control of the company, and the 
records of the old forges and furnaces are filled with 
human interests of an earlier day. WINDSOR FURNACE, 





TRINITY CHURCH, READING, BUILT IN 1791 


BERKS COUNTY 221 


on Furnace Creek, under shadow of the Blue Moun- 
tains, besides making pig iron and the usual hollow 
ware cast in colonial times, was noted for remarkable 
artistic work under the management of Jones, Keim & 
Co.; one casting, being a copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s 
“Last Supper,” is now in possession of the Philadelphia 
Exchange, 


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(222) 


IX 
BEDFORD COUNTY 


ORMED March 9, 1771; named by Governor 
} John Penn, in 1776, from fort of this name in 

the county. Is widely known for its mineral 
springs. When first established it embraced entire 
southwest part of the province. Mean altitude 1100- 
1200 feet above sea level; in northwest at Blue Knob, 
near Blair and Cambria County line, is highest eleva- 
tion in Pennsylvania, 3186 feet above sea level. Sur- 
face is broken by parallel ranges of mountains, with 
narrow, beautiful valleys, in a high state of cultiva- 
tion. Chief industries are farming, stock raising, and 
apple growing. It is said that the most important 
fields of bituminous coal in Pennsylvania are largely 
in the northeast of this County known as “The 
Broad Top Coal Fields.”’ Population Scotch-Irish, 
German, and English. 

First permanent settlement was made in 1750, by 
a Scotchman named Ray (McRay), an Indian trader, 
near present site of Bedford, then Raystown. In 
1755, Colonel James Burd was appointed by the 
province to construct the first wagon road, from Fort 
Louden, Franklin County, to join Braddock’s road 
near Turkey Foot, Somerset County, passing through 
Raystown (Bedford), practically identical with the 
Chambersburg and Bedford Turnpike, now Lincoln 
Highway. On western border where this road crosses 
main range of the Alleghenies, at a point two-thirds 
of the ascent, is a view unsurpassed in the picturesque 

(223) 


224 BEDFORD COUNTY 


charm of the landscape, stretching far and wide. 
The highway follows the main course of the Raystown 
Branch of the Juniata, crossing this stream at least 
four times; bridges are iron or old wooden ones. 

The fort at Raystown was constructed in 1758 by 
the vanguard of General Forbes’ army; it embraced 
about seven thousand square yards, occupying the 
bluff now bounded on the east by Richard Street; 
south, Pitt Street (Lincoln Highway); west, Juliana 
Street; north, the Raystone River; it was the most 
prominent military stronghold in the central part of 
the province, and the principal rendezvous of troops 
forming the right wing of General John Forbes’ army 
in his expedition against Fort Duquesne, 5850 men, 
besides wagoners; largest single contingent was 2700 
Pennsylvania provincials under Colonel Bouquet, who 
had chief charge of entire force, until General Forbes 
arrived; the 1600 Virginians were under command 
of Colonel George Washington and Colonel William 
Byrd. In 1759, Geneal John Stanwix, then in com- 
mand of the garrison, had the name changed to Fort 
Bedford, in honor of the Duke of Bedford; now no 
trace of the fortification remains. 

In 1794, Bedford became the headquarters of Gen- 
eral Henry Lee, Governor of Virginia, who was com- 
mander in chief of the army of 18,000 troops raised 
to quell the Whiskey Insurrection; President Wash- 
ington, after reviewing the troops at Carlisle and 
Cumberland, came to Bedford and made his head- 
quarters in a stone house on Pitt Street, house still 
standing. 

BEDFORD, county seat, population 2330; laid out, 
1766, by Surveyor General John Lukens, with a com- 


BEDFORD COUNTY 225 


modious square, in the most convenient place. Court- 
house erected, 1828, colonial with clock tower, archi- 
tect and contractor, Solomon Filler, faces the square. 
Opposite is the United States Post Office, built, 1915, 
Indiana limestone, classic, Doric columns, architect, 
Oscar Wenderoth; also facing the square are the Pres- 
byterian Church, colonial, built, 1828, on site of an 
earlier one built in 1810; and the Lutheran Church, 
fine two-story building and parsonage. The Soldiers’ 
Monument in honor of Bedford County volunteers in 
Civil War occupies center of square. Handsome 
memorial colonial gateway forms entrance to Bedford 
Cemetery, stone, with bronze tablets. 

The therapeutic qualities of the Mineral Springs are 
believed to be second to none anywhere in the world, 
and justly entitle Bedford to the name of the Carlsbad 
of America; one and one-half miles south of the 
borough, within an area of a few square rods, several 
varieties of water are to be found; most famous is the 
Magnesia Spring, efficacious in disturbances of the 
digestive organs; others are known as the Black Sulphur, 
Limestone, Chalybeate, and Sweet Water Spring. 
Colonial Hotel has a colonnade of Doric columns, 
twenty feet high, made of native solid trees; the links 
for the Scottish game of golf are on a place earlier 
named Caledonia. 'The Bedford Chalybeate Springs, 
about one mile northeast of the town, contain waters 
showing analysis of carbonate of calcium, magnesium, 
iron and sodium, and sulphite of calcium. Ten miles 
southwest of Bedford are the White Sulphur Springs in 
Milliken’s Cave, second largest health resort in the 
country; waters are unexcelled in health-restoring 
properties, 


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NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY 





(226) 


X 
NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY 


ORMED March 21, 1772; named for the Duke 
%) of Northumberland. Mountainous, with great 
amount of fertile land, watered by the Sus- 
quehanna River and tributaries. Chief industry is 
coal mining. 
County seat, SUNBURY, population 15,721, on site of 
a populous Indian village named Shamokin, occupied 
variously by different tribes; in 1745, the town con- 
tained about fifty houses and three hundred inhabi- 
tants; the Six Nations used it as a tarrying place for 
their war parties against the Catawbas of the South. 
It was the residence of Shikellimy, an Oneida chief 
sent by the Iroquois, who claimed the land by conquest 
in 1728, he was the Indian diplomat, and land agent of 
the three great tribes of Pennsylvania, New York and 
Delaware, with supervision of the Delaware, Shawnee, 
and other tribes. He also had to look after all matters 
relating to the settlement and purchase of Indian lands 
by the whites. In 1742, Count Zinzendorf, with Con- 
rad Weiser and others, came to Shamokin; Shikellimy 
gave them a hearty welcome, and promised to forward 
their design of having a Moravian Mission there; it 
was established in 1747 by Martin Mack and his wife; 
Bishop Cammerhoff and Zeisberger visited the town 
the next year. In 1748 Shikellimy died; “the Chief 
who never swerved in his friendship to the Province’; 
he had been baptized in the Christian faith in Bethle- 


i (227) 


228 NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY 


hem, and was buried just outside of what was later 
Fort Augusta; James Logan, his second son, was per- 
haps the best known of his children; made so by the 
murder of his family, near the mouth of Yellow Creek, 
on the Ohio, in 1774, and the famous “‘ Logan’s Lament.” 
A large boulder, with memorial tablet, marks Shikel- 
limy’s grave; it was placed, in 1915, by the Fort 
Augusta Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolu- 
tion, and the Pennsylvania Historical Commission; the 
boulder is of very close grained rock, of the kind used 
by the Indians for their hardest and strongest imple- 
ments; it was quarried near Wapwallopen, about 
forty miles above Sunbury; this rock boulder, from 
our local mountains, will resist the forces of nature for 
centuries to come, as it has done for ages past. 
Shamokin (Sunbury) was also the residence of Allum- 
mapees, or Sassounan, the head chief of the Delawares, 
so that this place was, in every sense of the term, the 
Indian capital of Pennsylvania from 1728-48, and was 
deserted in 1749 on account of a severe famine along 
the Susquehanna. At the north of Sunbury, along the 
river drive, is site of Fort Augusta, built in 1756 
by Colonel Miles and Captain Trump of the Second 
Pennsylvania Battalion; it was the frontier, after 
Forts Muncy, Brady, and Freeland were destroyed in 
1779 by British and Indians; the powder magazine, 
and well, built of brick, are still intact and in good 
preservation. This was said to have been the most 
strategic point in the whole section; a monument on 
either side of the roadway marks the place. On the site 
of the fortifications is a brick mansion; within are many 
relics taken from the fort, and draft of original plan. 


NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY 229 


Visitors are welcome. Site of Fort Freeland on north 
side of Warrior’s Run, four miles east of Watsontown; 
it was a large stockaded log house, built in 1773, en- 
closing about half an acre. 

SUNBURY was laid out 1772, by William Maclay 
and John Lukens, by order of Governor Richard Penn, 
who named it. William Maclay, first United States 
Senator from Pennsylvania, built his stone residence, 
still standing, on the river bank in northwest part of 
town; the city plan is like that of Philadelphia, and 
many of the streets have the Philadelphia names; 
Market Street faces a public square between Second 
and Third Streets, known as Cameron Park, in which is 
the Civil War Soldiers’ Monument, granite shaft sur- 
mounted by a life-size, granite statue of Colonel James 
Cameron, who organized a regiment from this county. 
Courthouse, Second Street, facing west side of Cameron 
Park, originally built in 1866; Georgian; brick with 
Hummelstown brownstone trimmings; was remodeled 
in the same style in 1915 and enlarged, in the rear, 
with a cross wing, giving two fine courtrooms, last 
architect, William H. Lee, Shamokin. The prison, 
one block away, at the corner of Second and Arch 
Streets, medieval castle style, built, 1878, dark gray 
stone, with stone wall twenty feet high, surrounding 
the whole structure, has wing used as a penitentiary, 
where prisoners serve out their sentences; they weave 
carpets and make coarse hosiery. 

NORTHUMBERLAND, settled, 1772, population 4061. 
Dr. Joseph Priestly, chemist and philosopher, was its 
most noted inhabitant; he emigrated here in 1794, 
to be with his son, and died, 1804; in 1874, Scientists 


230 NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY 


of America celebrated here the centennial of Dr. 
Priestly’s discovery of oxygen; his house, built, 1796, 
is still standing, in excellent preservation; a portrait of 
Dr. Priestly, by Gilbert Stuart, is owned by Miss 
Priestly. The Academy was erected in 1803, mainly 
through the efforts of Dr. Priestly; Rev. Isaac Greer, 
first principal. 


XI 
WESTMORELAND COUNTY 


ORMED February 26, 1773, named for the 
County of Westmoreland, England. Chief in- 
dustries, coal, coke, gas, and manufactories. 
Ruins of old furnaces abound in this section, relics of 
the iron industry about 1800. The Lincoln Highway 
crosses this county, formerly the Philadelphia and 
Pittsburgh Turnpike, entering near LAUGHLINSTOWN, 
at the base of Laurel Ridge, elevation, 2700 feet; 
here is a museum of relics, shown in an old tavern of 
stage coach days, built about 1800, where Daniel 
Webster is said to have stopped, and Zachary Taylor, 
in 1848, held a reception. Three miles west is 
LIGONIER, on site of a fort built by Captain Burd under 
the direction of Colonel Bouquet, a Swiss; named 
for Sir John Ligonier, a famous English general; 
all traces of the fort have been obliterated; 
a descriptive tablet, erected by the Daughters of the 
American Revolution, is in the town square. In the 
High School Library is an engraving, from a painting by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds, of Sir John Ligonier. Near by 
is Idlewild Park. 

At Bushy Run the Indians made a furious attack 
on Bouquet and his company but were utterly routed 
and they retreated beyond the Ohio; Bouquet then 
marched to Fort Pitt and recovered it in 1763; next 
year he led an expedition beyond the Ohio River, 
the Indians sued for peace, and he compelled them to 

(231) 


SCALE (ORD MILES 
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WESTMORELAND COUNTY 


(232) 


WESTMORELAND COUNTY 233 


bring all their captives to Fort Pitt. One and a half 
miles west of Ligonier is residence of General Arthur 
St. Clair, from 1767-72, “The Hermitage,” rebuilt, 
excepting one room, which is well cared for; there is 
a well-grounded tradition that Washington sent from 
Mount Vernon two expert carpenters, whose quaintly 
designed woodwork, mantelpiece and wainscoting 
doubtless saved this room from destruction; the house 
was marked in 1913, by the Phoebe Bayard Chapter, 
Daughters of the American Revolution, of Greensburg. 

Four miles west of Latrobe is St. Vincent’s Monas- 
tery and Church, dedicated in 1905, brick and stone 
buildings, with highly decorated interiors, containing 
the main altar, onyx, set with jewels, and fine wood 
carvings from Italy. North, on William Penn High- 
way, is NEw ALEXANDRIA; here, owned by Elizabeth 
Craig, is a Rattlesnake Flag, in use before the Revolu- 
tion, made of crimson silk; in the upper left-hand 
corner is the English coat of arms; on the field is a 
rattlesnake with thirteen rattles, indicating the thir- 
teen colonies; underneath are the words “Don’t tread 
on me,” J. P. F. B. W. C. P.—for John Proctor’s First 
Battalion Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania; by 
whom it was adopted. 

GREENSBURG, population 15,038, formerly called 
Newtown, settled in 1782; made county seat in 1786, 
and name changed in honor of General Nathaniel 
Greene, who had died at Savannah, Georgia, that same 
year; many of the Westmoreland County soldiers 
served under him in the Revolution. It now has its 
fourth courthouse, a dignified building, French Ren- 
aissance, white granite, the facade surmounted by 


234 WESTMORELAND COUNTY 


a well-proportioned dome, dedicated, 1908; architect, 
William Kauffman; contains portraits of judges and 
lawyers. Among the churches of good architecture 
are the United Brethren, classic, Doric, architects, 
Winkler & Macdonald; and the First Presbyterian 
on South Main Street, Gothic, stone, architects, Cram 
& Ferguson. Other notable buildings are the Post 
Office, classic, Ionic; the Y. M. C. A., an adaptation 
of Colonial, and St. Joseph’s Academy, with beautiful 
grounds, overlooking the whole town. 

In St. Clair Cemetery is a monument to Genera] 
Arthur St. Clair, who is buried here. About five miles 
distant is Oakford Park. Fells Church in Rostravor 
Township southwest is said to be the second Methodist 
Church west of the Alleghenies, built of logs in 1792; 
present stone building in 1834; in the burial ground 
are many pioneers of western Pennsylvania. 


XII 
WASHINGTON COUNTY 


ORMED March 28, 1781; named for President 
Washington; originally part of Augusta County, 
Virginia. First court held here was two miles 

west on the Gabby farm, marked by granite block; in- 
scription, ‘On this spot, was held in 1776, the County 
Court, for the District of West Augusta, Virginia; the 
first Court held by English-speaking people, west of the 
Monongahela River. Erected by Washington County 
Historical Society 1905.”’ Chief industries, between 
1860-80 raising fine stock and wool growing; in 1884, 
oil was discovered and for ten or fifteen years this 
county became an oil center, with some of the largest 
wells; now coal is being shipped all over the country 
from seemingly boundless veins. 

WASHINGTON, county seat, laid out in 1782, popu- 
lation 21,480. Courthouse, built in 1900, on Main 
Street, Italian Renaissance, Columbia sandstone and 
granite; architect, F. J. Osterling; contains portraits, 
also collections made by the Washington County 
Historical Society; ground given by David Hoge of 
Virginia, who owned large tracts of land where the 
town now is. Town Hall, corner-stone laid by General 
U. S. Grant, in 1869; contains Public Library, 
gift of Dr. Francis J. Le Moyne. Washington and 
Jefferson College, combined in 1870, from Washington 
College founded 1787, and Jefferson College founded 
in Canonsburg, 1802; both flourished until the Civil 

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WASHINGTON COUNTY 237 


War, when many students enlisted and financial de- 
pression followed; located one square east of the 
courthouse; oldest part, two story, stone, erected, 1793; 
main building, brick, 1836, enlarged, 1875, houses the 
Y. M. C. A., the museum, classrooms, and laboratories; 
several other fine buildings of brick and stone are on 
the campus; chapel contains portraits. 

Washington Seminary, recognized as one of the 
oldest and best institutions for women students, one 
square south of college, was built, 1836. Bradford 
House, first stone house in this locality, was built, 1794, 
by Colonel William Bradford, a leader in the Whiskey 
Insurrection. Residence, Dr. Francis Julius Le Moyne, 
native of this town, built in 1812, East Maiden Street 
near Main, is one of the landmarks; he was a brilliant 
scholar, abolitionist, and promoter of the underground 
railroad; he built the first crematory in America, 
located south of Washington, first cremation, Baron de 
Palen, in 1876. Dr. Le Moyne was cremated, 1879. 
The Presbyterian Church leads, with the other prin- 
cipal denominations represented, also Jewish Syna- 
gogue. West from Washington, the Campbell family 
founded the Disciples, or Christian Church, on Buffalo 
Creek. 

The Cumberland Road, built, 1811, brought an 
almost unbroken stream of home seekers through this 
town, en route to the west; bridges and culverts built 
about the same time still stand, models of solid masonry 
and good engineering, one is between Washington and 
Claysville, town named for Henry Clay, who had an 
interest in the road and frequently came here. 

CANONSBURG, laid out, 1787, by Colonel John Canon, 


238 WASHINGTON COUNTY 


population 10,632, a portion of his first grist mill is 
on original location near Chartier’s Creek. Jefferson 
College chartered, 1802; oldest building erected in 
1880; on North Central Avenue, highest ground in 
town; was outgrowth of Dr. John McMiuillan’s Log 
Cabin Latin School from 1782; first classical school 
west of the Allegheny Mountains, his cabin stands on 
the campus, marked by a bronze tablet, placed by the 
Phi Gamma Delta Fraternity, custodians; having 
been removed from its original site, two miles south of 
town; Franklin Hall, converted into a Memorial Hall 
in 1900, contains portraits of college presidents and 
professors between 1802-69, also collections: of old 
books from several early libraries and literary societies; 
may be seen by applying to any of the Memorial Hall 
Committee. Stone edifice, opposite campus, built by 
John Roberts, Esq, who conducted a school and kept 
post office here in 1801, parts of walls are said to be 
part of stone Academy Building, erected by Colonel 
Canon, for which he donated the ground in 1790; it was 
merged with the Log Cabin School to form Jefferson 
College. 

- Two-story building at northeast corner of Central 
Avenue and Pike Street, now grocery and hardware 
store, was site of the Joshua Emery’s Hotel; here 
President James Monroe was entertained in 1817. On 
east side of North Central Avenue, between Pike and 
College Streets, vacant lot, site of Black Horse Tavern, 
notable as the resort of men who rifled the mail sacks, 
when letters supposed to contain evidence against 
violaters of the excise laws were stolen, en route to 
Philadelphia from Pittsburgh, 1794. Residence 62-68 


WASHINGTON COUNTY 239 


Kast Pike Street, built by Dr. Jonathan Letherman, 
before 1830, here Dr. John McMillan died in 1833; the 
flower garden, with brick wall, was laid out by a land- 
scape gardener brought from Philadelphia by Dr. 
Letherman, original designs still retained. The Hutch- 
inson house, north side, West College Street, corner of 
Hutchinson Avenue and adjacent lots, once the 
Hutchinson farm, was where the “Whiskey boys” 
encamped in 1794, here also “musters’’ were held 
before the Civil War. Chartiers Presbyterian (Hill) 
Church and burial ground, one mile south of Canons- 
burg, is where Dr. John McMillan began his pastorate 
in 1775, and was buried; here, Woodrow Wilson’s 
father was also a former pastor; this site became a 
rendezvous for the Whiskey Insurrectionists in 1794. 

A natural park of seventy acres, within east side of 
the borough, acquired by gift, is a beautiful breathing 
spot for the whole community. About one mile north- 
east of Canonsburg, at Morganza, is the Western Penn- 
sylvania Industrial School; the Morgan Lands, eleven 
hundred acres,was the home of General George Morgan, 
Indian agent in Pittsburgh 1775-79; a portion of his 
residence is still standing, about midway between 
Morganza and Pollock; here he was visited by 
Aaron Burr in 1806. General Morgan and his two sons 
were summoned to Richmond, as witnesses, when Burr 
was tried for treason. - 

MONONGAHELA, an important town, first called 
Parkinson’s Ferry, then Williamsport; the men here 
took an active part in the Whiskey Insurrection, 1794. 
It furnished its quota of soldiers, known as the Williams- 
port Rangers, for the War of 1812. Monument to 


240 WASHINGTON COUNTY 


Colonel Hawkins, and to the Philippine veterans. 
James Gillespie Blaine was born at West Brownsville 
in 1830. AMITY, southern part of Washington, near 
county line, was the residence of Solomon Spalding, 
born in Connecticut, minister of the Congregational 
Church; here he wrote the ‘Manuscript Found,” or 
Book of Mormon; he was not a robust man, and spent 
many hours writing this romance, with no idea of 
founding a religious sect; he would read his book in 
the evenings to the men gathered in the general store; 
died, 1816, age fifty-five, grave marked by large 
granite block. 


XII 
FAYETTE COUNTY 


RGANIZED September 26, 1783; named in 
() honor of the Marquis de Lafayette; occupied 

prominent place in Indian, Revolutionary, and 
later wars. On Jacobs Creek, a mile and a half 
above the point where it empties into the 
Youghiogheny River, stands the ruins of the first 
furnace for the production of pig iron, west of the 
Allegheny Mountains; the furnace was put in 
blast November, 1790, and was known as the Alliance 
Iron Works, operated by William Turnbull and Peter 
Marmie of Philadelphia; it continued in blast until 1802 
using the native ores from the neighboring hillsides, 
and charcoal burned from the surrounding forests; 
in 1792 the company cast four hundred six-pound 
shot for the Fort Pitt Arsenal at Pittsburgh. Coal 
miningand coke are now the chief industries. Connells- 
ville coke is known throughout the industrial world. 

Aboriginal inhabitants were the Shawnee Indians, 
who made various earthworks and burial mounds, 
along the Monongahela and Youghiogheny Rivers 
before their migration southward; it was part of the 
“Hunting Grounds” of the Iroquois Confederation; 
the “Indian Title’? was extinguished by treaty at 
Fort Stanwix, 1768. 

In 1749 Nemacolin, a Delaware Indian, guided 
Colonel Thomas Cresap from Wills Creek, Cumberland, 
Maryland, to the mouth of Dunlap’s Creek, where 

(241) 


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FAYETTE COUNTY 


FAYETTE COUNTY 243 


Fort Burd was erected in 1759, on site of “ Redstone 
Old Fort,”’ an Indian earthwork, now Brownsville; 
this was called Nemacolin’s trail, and was the best 
course for the Ohio Company to reach the Ohio River. 
It was followed by Washington, with Christopher 
Gist, to the French forts in 1753, the first actual step 
here, in conflict with France. During the ‘French 
and Indian War” Fayette County was the scene of 
some of the most thrilling events in American history. 
In 1745 Washington’s expedition to gain possession of 
the Ohio Valley followed this trail to drive the French 
from “The Forks” (Pittsburgh); he advanced to 
Gist’s Plantation at Mount Braddock, then retreated 
to The Great Meadows, Fort Necessity, marked by 
tablet at Mount Washington, where he was defeated 
by the French under M. Coulon de Villers; previous 
to this, Washington had met a detachment of French 
soldiers under M. Coulon de Jumonville, in which 
Jumonville was killed, grave marked by tablet; first 
blood shed in French and Indian War. 

In 1755 Major General Edward Braddock’s ex- 
pedition against Fort Duquesne followed Nemacolin’s 
trail to Mount Braddock, thence over Catawba trail, 
which enters Fayette County at mouth of Dunkards 
Creek; northward through Uniontown, crossing the 
Youghiogheny (Stewarts Crossing) at Connellsville, 
on through Mount Pleasant to Westmoreland County, 
Hunkers, Circleville, to McKeesport; crossing the 
Monongahela, then recrossing below at mouth of 
Turtle Creek. General Braddock, mortally wounded 
in the battle of the Monongahela, was carried back 
over the road he had opened to a point on the Cumber- 

17 


244 FAYETTE COUNTY 


land Road, National Pike, where he died and was 
buried; Washington read the Episcopal burial 
service over him; grave marked by monument, 
erected by officers of his old regiment, the ‘ Cold- 
stream Guards of England.” Braddock’s Road 
became the main highway for settlers of South- 
west Pennsylvania and Kentucky; the entire course 
is full of historic interest; sites of encampments, block- 
houses and Indian forts; some are marked. 

UNIONTOWN, county seat, formed, 1776; population 
15,692. Courthouse, Italian Renaissance; stone; archi- 
tects, E. M. Butz and William Kauffman, Pittsburgh. 
Presbyterian Church has fine Tiffany windows. Mr. 
James Hadden, the historian of Fayette County, has 
a life-size bust of Washington, cut by himself from the 
wood of a wild cherry tree, which grew within the lines 
of Fort Necessity, in 1784. Washington owned the 
land on which the tree stood. Two miles south is 
Fort Gaddis, only frontier or settlers’ fort now standing 
in Fayette County, marked by tablet in 1908; there 
were sixteen such forts in this county, built of heavy 
logs, making durable houses for the frontiersmen, and 
safe retreat for neighboring settlers. 

CONNELLSVILLE; population 13,804. On grounds 
of the Carnegie Free Library is a bronze statue of 
Colonel William Crawford, pioneer and patriot, who, 
in 1765, built the first cabin home within limits of 
Connellsville; killed by Indians in 1782; sculptor, 
Charles S. Kilpatrick; tablet on base placed by Penn- 
sylvania Historical Commission. ‘Trinity Lutheran 
Church, Italian Renaissance; native white sandstone, 
trimmed with Indiana limestone; built, 1911; contains 


FAYETTE COUNTY 245 


copy of Bougereau’s “Resurrection.” In the tower is 
chime of twelve bells. Architect, J. C. Fulton, Union- 
town. 

Lafayette was entertained, in 1825, at ‘Friendship 
Hill’? near New Geneva, the home of Albert Gallatin, 
member of Congress, Minister Plenipotentiary from 
the United States to two courts of Europe, signer of 
the Treaty of Ghent, Secretary of the Treasury in 
Jefferson’s and Madison’s administrations; the house 
was built, 1789, enlarged, 1882, and with the estate 
of seven hundred acres, is still of great beauty; Albert 
Gallatin’s library remains just as he left it, on a high 
eminence, overlooking the Monongahela River, on the 
edge of a precipice three hundred feet above the river, 
the view is said to be similar to that from Heidelberg 
Castle; the main entrance is near the old Morgantown 
Road, an historic highway, 


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XIV 
FRANKLIN COUNTY 


ORMED September 9,1784; named for Benjamin 
Franklin, whose fame was then world-wide. Ear- 
liest settlers Scotch-Irish, later Germans. Chief 

industry agriculture, the land east is limestone and 
very fertile; west, slate lands prevail, abounding in pure 
streams and rich meadows; the Conococheague and 
Conodoquinet Creeks drain the central part of the 
county, they are crossed by many stone arch bridges of 
graceful architecture, the most notable is at Hiester’s 
Mill, threearches. The principal road, now part of the 
Lincoln Highway, enters the county near the historic 
Thaddeus Stevens Iron Works, built, 1837, at Cale- 
donia, which comprised about 20,000 acres, now in 
State Forestry Reservation, and with the Mont Alto 
tract, makes a total of about 40,000 acres; the mill 
and machinery were entirely destroyed, in 1863, by 
order of General Early, on account of Stevens’ well- 
known activity as an abolitionist; this road was route 
of greater part of Lee’s Army to and from the battle- 
field of Gettysburg to Chambersburg; site of encamp- 
ment before the battle, a little beyond the hospital, 
east from Chambersburg. Other roads leading west, of 
historic interest, are the Two Mountain, and the Path 
Valley, formerly Indian trails. 

County seat, CHAMBERSBURG, settled, 1764, popula- 
tion 18,171. In Centre Square is a boulder with tablet 
commemorating the burning of Chambersburg by Con- 

(247) 


248 FRANKLIN COUNTY 


federate Cavalry, July 1, 1864. Facing the square are 
the brick courthouse, Southern colonial with fluted 
columns, cupola and clock, contains portraits of judges; 
and the Central Presbyterian Church, with Tiffany 
windows. Near are, Miller’s drug store on site of Jack 
Tavern, where the first court was held in 1784, large 
mortar in front was made from one of the pillars of the 
burned courthouse. United States Post Office, Main 
and King Streets, built, 1912, semi-classic, light 
colonial brick with gray stone facing. Masonic temple, 
built, 1823, saved by Confederate Masons when the 
town was burned. Zion Reformed Church, built, 1812, 
exterior unchanged, particularly good lines in steeple, 
has Tiffany windows. On King Street stands the house 
John Brown occupied, second from Union Baptist 
Church; Nicklas store, on Main Street near Queen, 
is site of old tavern where President Washington and 
Alexander Hamilton spent the night, en route to quell 
the Whiskey Insurrection in 1794; Market House, 
Second and Queen Streets, built, 1830, brick, colonial, 
with clock tower. 

WILSON COLLEGE comprises seven buildings, includ- 
ing Thompson Memorial Hall, built, 1904, modified 
Gothic, with auditorium and fine organ, architect, 
George C. Baum, Philadelphia. Falling Spring Pres- 
byterian Church and Chapel, organized, 1736, services 
first held in Benjamin Chamber’s sawmill, present 
church built, 1803, chapel, 1873, native stone, has 
Tiffany memorial windows to Judge and Mrs. Alex- 
ander Thomson, parents of Frank Thomson, Esq. 
Rocky Spring Presbyterian Church, four miles north- 
west from Chambersburg, built, 1794 by the Scotch- 


FRANKLIN COUNTY 249 


Irish, colonial, with high, straight-backed pews, and 
original old high pulpit, with sounding board, pewter 
Communion service from Englandandten-plate stoves. 
Dr. McIntosh preached here; has an interesting old 
graveyard, keys kept at adjoining farmhouse. 

The “Mont ALTO PARK,” formerly a famous pic- 
nic ground, now in charge of State Forestry Commis- 
sion, in the South Mountain, in old maps named ‘The 
Valley of a Thousand Springs,”’ contains an old Protes- 
tant Episcopal Church, near which is a native boulder, 
with granite tablet, marking the place where Captain 
John E. Cook, of John Brown’s Army of Liberation, 
was captured and disarmed, October 25, 1859, erected 
by the Kittochtinny Historical Society, 1909. The 
STATE FOREST ACADEMY is here, where the state 
educates its foresters, free of all cost; in 1900, the 
Bureau of Forestry had grown to the point where it 
should be raised to the rank of a department, of which 
the chief should be a member of the Governor’s cabinet; 
there was strenuous oppositon, but owing to the flood 
of letters received by members of the Legislature, from 
the women of the State Federated Clubs, the change 
was made,and Pennsylvania takes a commanding place 
in the Forestry and Conservation movement. The 
WHITE PINE, STATE SANATORIUM, No. 1, free for 
consumptives, is also here, one of the largest in the 
world. South is WAYNESBORO; good roads and notably 
fine scenery in this section. 

GREENCASTLE, birthplace of Robert McClelland in 
1807, see Honor Roll; directly north, on State Road, 
is monument, to mark where Corporal William H. Rhil 
fell, first soldier killed on Northern soil in Civil War. 


250 FRANKLIN COUNTY 


MERCERSBURG, settled between 1730-85, popula- 
tion 1668; named for General Hugh Mercer, who 
was killed in the Battle of Princeton. Mercersburg 
Academy, Main Hall, built, 1838, used as hospital for 
wounded soldiers, on retreat from Gettysburg, is a 
notable example of Southern colonial architecture, 
with fine pillars and surmounted by a cupola; the ’88 
Dormitory, given largely by class of 1888 of Princeton 
University, is Tudor Gothic, brick and white stone; 
Kiel Hall, the refectory, interior, baronial Gothic with 
frescoes and hangings by Tiffany; over mantel, in 
wood, carved by John J. Maene, is “The Boar Hunt”’ 
from design by A. Stirling Calder; notable collection 
of University shields in glass and wood; mosaic 
armorial design in hearth; Laucks Hall, Tudor Gothic, 
has mural painting in trophy room, “The Victor,” 
representing a Mercersburg boy being crowned victor 
in athletic skill, artist, Edward Howland Blashfield, 
also collection of portraits of distinguished men, includ- 
ing President James Buchanan, Thomas A. Scott, and 
W. M. Irvine, by William Merritt Chase; Dr. E. E. 
Highbee, by Carroll Beckwith; and Dr. Thomas Apple 
by John W.:'Alexander; the new gymnasium, architect, 
Frank Miles Day, has stained glass by Tiffany. 

Historic houses on Main Street, one in which Harriet 
Lane Johnston was born, built, 1788, by Colonel 
Robert Parker, friend of Lafayette, has interesting 
interior woodwork; and residence of Dr. William 
Magaw, who dressed Lafayette’s wounds after the 
battle of Brandywine, grounds now in campus of 
Academy. Near Mercersburg, Irwinton Mills, a 
picturesque spot on the west branch of the Conoco- 





THE VICTOR 
In trophy room of the Mercersburg Academy 


Painted by Edwin H. Blashfield 


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FRANKLIN COUNTY 251 


cheague, birthplace of Jane and Elizabeth Irwin, who 
were married to the Harrison brothers; Jane was mis- 
tress of the White House in 1841, Elizabeth became 
the mother of President Benjamin Harrison. East 
of town, birthplace of William Findlay, see Honor 
Roll. President James Buchanan was born at Cove 
Gap, three miles from Mercersburg, birthplace marked 
by monument erected by will of his niece, Harriet 
Lane Johnston; the house was later removed to Lafay- 
ette Street, Mercersburg. 

The famous Packer’s Path, used by pack horses, 
leads from Stony Batter across the mountains to 
Pittsburgh. Site of Fort McCord, near Yankee Gap, 
at North Mountain is where twenty-seven pioneer 
settlers were massacred or carried into captivity by 
Indians in 1756, and thirty-two provincial soldiers 
killed or wounded in their effort at rescue; marked by 
native stone monument 1914, erected by the Enoch 
Brown Association, and Pennsylvania Historical Com- 
mission. Northeast is the Enoch Brown Park, with 
monument sacred to the memory of Enoch Brown and 
eleven scholars massacred by Indians here in 1764, 
during the Pontiac War. Large collection of Indian 
curios found near here are owned by Benjamin Snively, 
Jr. South, is site of Fort Loudoun, marked. 

Natives of Franklin County, in the World’s Honor 
Roll are, Samuel Adams, Senator from Mississippi; 
George Washington Buchanan, United States District 
Attorney for Dakota; James Buchanan, 1791-1868, 
schoolboy in Mercersburg, lawyer, member of the 
legislature and of congress, Minister to Russia, member 
of United States Senate, Secretary of State, Minister to 


252 FRANKLIN COUNTY 


Great Britain, fifteenth president of the United States; 
Edmund R. Calhoun, Rear Admiral, United States 
Navy; Hugh S. Campbell, United States District 
Attorney for Dakota; George Chambers, 1786-1866, 
Judge of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania; Matthew 
St. Clair Clark, Clerk of the United States House of 
Representatives; Colonel Thomas Hartley Crawford, 
Judge of the United States Court, District of Colum- 
bia, and Commissioner for Indian Affairs; George 
Eyster, Assistant United States Treasurer at Phila- 
delphia; William Findlay, 1768-1846, State Treas- 
urer, United States Senator, Governor, Assistant 
United States Treasurer at Philadelphia; Henry Har- 
baugh, 1817-67, theologian, poet, hymn-writer; Robert 
Johnston, Collector of Excise, appointed by President 
Washington; John Maclay, member of the convention 
at Carpenters’ Hall; Samuel Maclay, United States 
Senator; William Maclay, first United States Senator 
from Pennsylvania, died, 1825; Robert McClelland, 
United States Secretary of the Interior, Governor of 
Michigan; James McLane, Member of the Supreme 
Executive Council and of the Pennsylvania Council of 
Censors, member of the convention at Carpenters’ 
Hall; John Williamson Nevin, 1803-86, President of 
Franklin and Marshall College, theologian, author, 
preacher; William M. Nevin, 1806-92, poet, teacher; 
James Potter, Major General of the Continental Army; 
John Rowe, Surveyor-General of Pennsylvania; Thomas 
A. Scott, Assistant Secretary of War, President Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad; Frank Thomson, President Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad; Joseph Williams, Chief Justice of the 
Supreme Court of Iowa. 


XV 
MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


ORMED September 10, 1784: named in honor of 
General Richard Montgomery; ranks third in 
state as to amount of money at interest paying 

state tax; notable for fine suburban residences and for 
Washington’s itinerary and Camp at Valley Forge, with 
11,098 men. The Valley Forge Park Commission ac- 
quired, in 1893, 472 acres, partly in Chester County, to 
maintain and preserve forever the Revolutionary camp 
ground; American army here from December 19,5117, 
to June 19, 1778; soldiers built their huts 16 x 14 feet 
by 614 feet high, each to accommodate twelve men, and 
bore their sufferings from cold, starvation, and sickness 
like heroes; facts of interest are: 

Baron von Steuben came from Germany with his 
secretary, Peter S. Du Ponceau, after having served as 
aide-de-camp to Frederick the Great: he was appointed 
inspector general of the American army, and gave them 
military training and discipline; Mrs. Washington 
came to Valley Forge February 27, 1778: on May 18, 
a detachment under Marquis de Lafayette moved to 
Barren Hill, but the British came in force against them, 
and they retreated over Matson’s ford, Conshohocken, 
on a bridge of rafts: on June 18, British evacuated 
Philadelphia, June 19, Washington and army left Val- 
ley Forge in pursuit. 

A marker is placed where General Sullivan and sol- 
diers built a bridge across the Schuylkill in 1778; 

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MONTGOMERY COUNTY 255 


redoubts and intrenchments have been restored; 
every point of interest has been marked with granite 
tablets by various historical] societies, and by the 
states whose sons suffered here: bronze equestrian 
statue of General Anthony Wayne, sculptor, H. K. 
Bush-Brown, made, 1908, marks site of cantonment 
of his troops; near this is replica of a brigade hospital, 
a soldier’s hut; and the bronze statue of General Fried- 
erich Wilhelm von Steuben, granite pedestal with 
bronze relief; sculptor, J. Otto Schweizer, erected, 1915, 
by National German-American Alliance. National 
Memorial Arch, one of the most beautiful structures of 
its kind, granite, designed by Paul P. Cret, was erected 
by the United States Government in 1914, as a tribute 
to General Washington and his regiments. 

Washington’s headquarters (home of Isaac Potts), 
open daily, 8 A.M. to 6 P.M., is arranged as when he 
occupied it; Washington Inn was used as army bakery 
during encampment, ovens in basement, originally 
home of Colonel William Dewees, sheriff of Phila- 
delphia, and owner, with John Potts, of the forge; the 
Star Redoubt; the Defenders’ Gate ; Cemetery; and 
View from observatory on Mount J oy are interesting; 
Museum of American History contains rare relics of 
Washington and the war. 

Washington Memorial Protestant Episcopal chapel, 
and the Cloister of the Colonies, in which each of the 
thirteen colonies will be represented by a bay, in the 
center of each is the colonial seal in brass: ceiling, 
hand carved oak, in the central boss of each, the 
state coat of arms; the Cloister incloses the Garth 
in which is a bronze statue, “Sacrifice and Devotion, ”’ 


256 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


by Bela Pratt, in honor of the mothers of the nation; 
the porch gates were wrought by Samuel Yellin, ham- 
mered in the iron are the symbols of the four Evangel- 
ists, the lock has a miniature Liberty Bell as a keeper, 
and the sliding bolt passes through the knapsack of a 
Continental soldier, guarding the lock; windows in the 
chapel from D’Ascenzo Studios. Waterman Monument 
marks the grave of only identified soldier buried here. 

Across the Schuylkill is Fat Land built by James 
Vaux; Washington slept here September 21, 1777; 
the next day, Sir William Howe came here and almost 
caught him. At Port Kennedy, one and one-half 
miles east of Valley Forge, prehistoric bones of sabre- 
tooth tigers and extinct animals are found. West of 
Valley Forge, Mill Grove, built, 1762, still standing, 
residence of John James Audubon; here he studied, 
painted, and wrote about “Birds of America” that 
have made him world-famous. Near, at the mouth 
of Perkiomen Creek, Washington’s army encamped 
at Richardson’s Ford, September 21, after march- 
ing all night, wet breast-high, and hungry, one thou- 
sand men without shoes. Howe moved on west of 
Schuylkill toward Reading, the depot of American 
supplies, having burned buildings at Valley Forge on 
his way, and reached Phoenixville, Fountain Inn. 
Washington marched his troops to Upper Hanover, 
within four miles of Pottstown; his headquarters was 
residence of John Potts, built 1753; and sent General 
Wayne with fifteen hundred men to harass the rear of 
British army under General Gray, but they were out- 
numbered by the British, and massacred at Paoli; 
marked by two monuments. 


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MONTGOMERY COUNTY 257 


POTTSTOWN, founded by John Potts, population 
17,431; noted for its iron industries since 17 16; Mill 
Park Hotel, built, 1752, for residence of founder, who 
was visited here by Washington. Friends Meeting 
House, built, 1752, ground given by John Potts; 
he also gave ground for Zion Lutheran Church, Geor- 
gian, 1753. Residences of founder’s three sons, Dr. 
Jonathan Potts, Director General of Hospitals, North- 
ern Department, in the Revolutionary War, “Stowe,” 
west of Pottstown; Samuel Potts, east of Pottstown, 
now “Hill School”; John Potts, Jr., a Tory judge, 
corner of High and Hanover Streets, center of town, 
later, residence of General Arthur St. Clair ; Daughters 
of the American Revolution tablet on side. Emmanuel 
Lutheran Church, architects, Lechman & Murphy, 
windows from D’Ascenzo Studios; Christ Protestant 
Episcopal Church, Gothic; brownstone; good memorial 
Windows; was received in Convention in 1827 ; Potts- 
town Hospital is controlled by Board of Women Man- 
agers, also the Library, in which art exhibitions are 
shown. 

Not until William Penn came was any effort made 
to manufacture iron in Pennsylvania. Having iron 
furnaces of his own at Hawkhurst, England, he was 
interested to encourage the industry here. Thomas 
Rutter, Bailiff of Germantown from 1705-06, after 
Pastorius, moved up the Schuylkill on patent of 
land from William Penn, deed still in the family, and 
established in 1717, the “Pool Forge,’ on Manatawny 
Creek, three miles above Pottstown; he was first in 
Pennsylvania to manufacture iron; ore is still being 
mined from the same beds. Among the great names 


258 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


in our early iron industry, Rutter and Potts stand pre- 
eminent; the list of forges and furnaces on the Mana- 
tawny and its branches, owned by their intermarried 
families, before the Revolution, include Mount Pleasant 
furnace and forge; Spring forge; Colebrookdale fur- 
nace and forge; Amity forge; Rutter’s forge; Pool 
forges; Pine forge and Little Pine forge. 

Near Boyertown is Ringing Rocks, a natural curi- 
osity; they make a complete octave. Michael Schlatter 
preached at Manatawny in 1748, also in the Reformed 
Church, built in 1743. McCalls, or Glasgow Forge, on 
Manatawny Creek, still in operation, was erected in 
1725, on land conveyed by William Penn to his son, 
John, in 1701; 14,600 acres; sold to George McCall of 
Glasgow, Scotland, in 1735; who also had interest in 
Colebrookdale furnace managed by Thomas Potts, Jr., 
which supplied McCall’s forge with pig iron. Green 
Lane Forge, on Perkiomen Creek, notable for its excel- 
lent blooms, was built in 1733 by Thomas Mayberry; 
earliest settler in Marlborough township, who bought 
1210 acres, supplied with pig iron from Durham Fur- 
nace, Bucks County; equipment, water wheel, huge 
bellows, tuyere pipe, open hearth forge, melting pots, 
and conelike charcoal kilns. 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY AUTOMOBILE TRIP 
TO VALLEY FORGE 
(Return by Schuylkill River Drive to Philadelphia) 
From Thirty-second and Market Streets, Phil- 
adelphia, out Lancaster Avenue, first turnpike in 
United States, completed in 1794, pattern for all sub- 
sequent roadbeds; main highway to Pittsburgh, once 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY 259 


thronged with teams, coaches, and Conestoga wagons 
with six horses, making twenty milesa day; trip from Phil- 
adelphia to Pittsburghand return, 333 miles, in six weeks; 
‘ wayside inns were located a mile apart. Originally 
part of Indian trail; later King’s Highway; Lancaster 
Pike; Main Line; now Lincoln Highway, made free of 
tolls July 15, 1917. OVERBROOK, Roman Catholic 
Theological Seminary, St. Charles Borromeo, contains 
painting, “Crucifixion,” by the late Thomas Eakens. 
The Pennsylvania Institution for the Instruction of the 
Blind, designed by E. A. Allen, Spanish Renaissance, 
1898, architects, Cope & Stewardson, considered finest 
residential school for blind in the world, particularly 
well-equipped for the purpose. Montgomery County, 
near NARBERTH station, old Merion meeting house, 
built, 1695, stone, sharp roof, curious pointed gables 
over doors, peg is still shown where William Penn hung 
his hat when he rose to preach; beyond is site of 
Penn cottage, built, 1695. Merrion, Dr. Barnes’ Art 
Museum, built of imported French limestone ; modern 
art. ARDMORE, St. Paul’s Lutheran Church and 
burial ground, log church, built, 1769, present church, 
1873. Red Lion Inn, still standing. 

HAVERFORD, Haverford College for boys, founded 
in 1833 by Society of Orthodox Friends, life is focused 
inward, neither sight nor sound of the outer world 
reaches the campus of 225 acres, on which are farm 
and woodland, cricket and football fields, tennis 
courts, a running track and skating pond; the arrange- 
ment of buildings, chiefly modern colonial, from 
1833-1912, shows the result that comes only by 
slow growth and care; architects, W. S. Vaux ; Cope 

18 


260 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


& Stewardson; W. F. Price; Baily & Bassett. Library 
contains over four hundred Babylonian clay tab- 
lets, from 2500 B. C.; Harris collection of Oriental 
manuscripts; seven hundred reproductions in fictile 
ivory, of ancient and medieval carved ivories in 
British Museum, from second to eighteenth centu- 
ries; Roberts autographs, more than 11,000 items, 
covering period from late fifteenth century to present 
day; some portraits of Haverford alumni. Old Haver- 
ford meeting house, near Cobb’s Creek, stone, built, 
1696, has horse block used by William Penn in dis- 
mounting; chimney had curious openings in outside 
wall, through which fire wood was introduced to the 
hearth, their position is still traceable. The Buck 
Tavern, built, 1732, now Haverford House. 

Bryn Mawr, 415 feet above sea level (Welsh, great 
hill). Bryn Mawr College, founded by Dr. Joseph W. 
Taylor, of Burlington, New Jersey, in 1880, to establish 
“An institute for advanced learning, for women to 
have equal advantages with men.” The college has 
continued a high standard of academic work, and main- 
tains graduate school for women doing research work 
in all branches. Buildings, chiefly varieties of Gothic 
architecture, stone, date from 1882-1918, architects, 
Addison Hutton, Cope & Stewardson, C. Francis 
Osborne, Lockwood de Forest, and Winsor Soule; the 
Library, Jacobean Gothic, period, 1630, incloses 
cloister garden with center fountain, bosses of cloister 
arches are carved by hand, sculptor, Alec Miller from 
England. Memorial brasses, set in wall, were designed 
by Lockwood de Forest. Reading room contains por- 
traits of President M. Carey Thomas, by John S. 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY 261 


Sargent, and ex-President James E. Rhoads, by 
William M. Chase. 

ROSEMONT, residence, Alba Johnson, Esq., late 
Tudor, is typical of Main Line residences, many 
of them Norman or English; grounds in woodland 
and best traditions of English landscape garden- 
ing; marble statue of Eve, made 1855, by Bartholomew, 
Rome; lead statuary, Neptune and horses fountain, 
from Bronze Grove Guild, Worcester, England, Walter 
Gilbert, sculptor; the grounds may sometimes be seen 
by writing to owner for permission. ViLLA Nova, 
Roman Catholic College and monastery. Bernard 
Corr Memorial Hall, old English Gothic, built, 1912- 
14; architects, Durang & Son. 

RADNOR, Delaware County, Friends meeting house, 
built, 1718, used as hospital for Morgan’s riflemen and 
Potter’s brigade in 1778; St. David’s Church, built, 
1715, by the congregation, named for patron Saint of 
Wales; native stone, used as hospital in Revolutionary 
War, leaden sash, melted for bullets; Swedish mission- 
ary at Wicaco held first services here; General Anthony 
Wayne, vestryman, is buried in church grounds; his 
monument was erected by Pennsylvania Society of 
the Cincinnati in 1809; Judge William Moore and 
wife, buried under the door-step; their daughter was 
the wife of the first Provost, William Smith, U. of P. 
Communion service given by Queen Anne. WAYNE, 
General Wayne Inn, hotel since 1707, Wayne’s 
encampment near in 1792, before his western campaign 
against Indians. Chester County, Lincoln Highway to 
Strafford, Township Line Road to VALLEY FORGE, 
see page 253. 


262 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


Return, Montgomery County, Valley Forge road to 
“King of Prussia” Inn, built, 1749; continue on Gulph 
Road to Gulph Mills, stone, built, 1747, Boulder Monu- 
ment, inscription, “Gulph mills, the main Continental 
Army commanded by General George Washington, 
encamped in this vicinity December 13 to December 19, 
1777, on way to Valley Forge, erected by the Pennsyl- 
vania Society, Sons of the Revolution, 1892.”’ Over 
Gulph Creek near Gulph station, Philadelphia & West- 
ern Railroad, is stone bridge, inscription “ Montgomery 
County, Upper Merian (Merion) Township, 1787; In © 
the second year of the Foederal (Federal) Union.” 
WEST CONSHOHOCKEN. Matson’s Ford, over which 
Lafayette retreated from the British in 1778, continue 
along Schuylkill River drive to Belmont Avenue, 
through Fairmount Park to Philadelphia. 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY AUTOMOBILE TRIP 
ON OLD YORK ROAD, TO DOYLESTOWN, 
BUCKS COUNTY, LEADING TO CEN- 
TER BRIDGE 


Old York Road, original stage route to New 
York, laid out in 1711, from ‘city line to Center 
Bridge. ELKINS PARK station. Residence of the 
late P. A. B. Widener, ‘‘Lynnewood Hall,” nota- 
ble for one of the finest art collections in the 
United States; near by, residence of William L. 
Elkins has notable art gallery, both galleries 
may sometimes be seen by writing to owners 
for cards of admission. South of Chelten Avenue, 
stone bridge, two arches, date, 1798; opposite is 
only milestone of old series south of the Neshaminy, 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY 263 


it is the seventh milestone mentioned in Washington’s 
orders for the attack on Germantown. West, is resi- 
dence of the late Lucretia Mott, Oak Farm, near La 
Mott, now Latham Park. OGoNTz, residence of the 
late Jay Cooke, financier of the Civil War; named for 
an Indian chief whom he had met. Over Tacony 
Creek is stone bridge, inscription, “Cheltenham bridge, 
1798, 744 miles to Phila.” Church Road, near Myers 
Mill, Cheltenham, site, country residence of William 
Penn; on part of this land is country residence of the 
late John Wanamaker. At Washington Lane, south- 
east boundary of Jenkintown, is large oak tree where 
Washington rested his white horse. 

A quarter of a mile east of Jenkintown is Abington 
Friends meeting house, organized, 1682, built, 1697 by 
William Jenkins from Wales; stone; long piazza; old 
shutters with strap hinges and iron hooks, door latch 
and knobs; all in keeping with its period of construc- 
tion, fine old trees in grounds are well cared for. One 
mile north, RYDAL station, Ogontz School for Girls, 
lately in Jay Cooke mansion, organized about 1850, by 
Misses Bonney & Dillaye: Collegiate Gothic, built, 
1917; architects, Cope & Stewardson, has Art Depart- 
ment. Through Meadowbrook, one mile east to 
BETHAYRES, residence, Henry McCarter, artist. 

One mile north, BRYN ATHYN, name means “Hill of 
Cohesiveness,’” a. Swedenborgian educational com- 
munity. Library contains the most valuable collection 
of Swedenborg’s writings in the world. Here is being 
erected a cathedral; architect, Ralph Adams Cram, 
gift of John Pitcairn; like the cathedrals of old, all 
work is prepared on the grounds; wood-carving and 


264 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


stonecutting by hand; glass manufactured, models 
made; the workmen in consultation with the donor 
and the architect to obtain the best results. Return 
to York Road. ABINGTON, library, originally Jenkin- 
town Lyceum, built, 1830, lately remodeled, modern 
colonial, contains valuable collection of books be- 
queathed by John Lambert, artist, who also left 
$50,000 in trust for purchasing paintings by young 
artists at annual exhibitions in Pennsylvania Academy 
of the Fine Arts. Presbyterian Church built, 1714, is 
said to be third in this country; in 1740 George White- 
field preached here to three thousand persons in one 
day. 

WILLOW GROVE PARK; pleasure resort; fine con- 
certs given throughout the summer season, by Sousa 
and others. North on Doylestown Pike, HorsHam, 
Graeme Park, colonial, stone house, hipped roof, resi- 
dence, Sir William Keith, from Scotland, Baronet of 
Ludquhairn, Aberdeenshire, Lieutenant Governor of 
Pennsylvania, 1717-26; he laid foundation of the mili- 
tary system, encouraged putting out paper currency, 
and inaugurated a military display at Penn’s death; 
property later owned by Dr. Thomas Graeme, his son- 
in-law; Governor Keith’s coat of arms is on a large 
iron plate in the fireplace; in the yard is an antique 
slave bell and stone strength tester. Quaker meeting 
house, built, 1803. Approaching HATBORO, stone 
bridge leads York Road over Pennypack Creek, inscrip- 
tion “Hatborough, 1780, 16 M. to P.” It is said this 
bridge was built in 1824, stone taken from an older 
bridge. Battle of “Crooked Billet,” name of near-by 
tavern, fought in 1778, a small company of Americans 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY 265 


under Colonel John Lacy were attacked by British 
under Lieutenant Colonel Abercrombie, and nearly all 
killed; white marble monument was erected here in 
1861. Continued in Bucks County. 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY AUTOMOBILE TRIP 
FROM CHESTNUT HILL TO CAMP HILL 
AND FORT WASHINGTON 


(Return by Norristown to Philadelphia) 


At Chestnut Hill, on Bethlehem Pike, we enter 
Whitemarsh Valley (Umbilicamince), named from 
mists of Wissahickon Creek; near by is ERDENHEIM, 
Carson College, on one hundred acres of ground, 
richly endowed by Robert N. Carson, for orphan 
girls, that they may have the same benefits which 
Girard College has accorded to orphan boys; the ar- 
chitect, Albert Kelsey, has planned his design to be an 
allegorical vision of woman’s life, combining beauty, 
utility, and sympathy; he eliminates the usual large 
central buildings, the administration and classrooms 
being in the nature of a college settlement which make 
up in beauty what they lack in size, and may be ex- 
panded’as occasion demands. Passing the Wheel Pump 
and Black Horse, famous early hotels. Colonial 
houses; Presbyterian and Lutheran churches with 
their burial grounds; to junction with Skippack Road. 

St. Thomas Protestant Episcopal Church, contains 
Communion service given by Queen Anne, first log 
chapel built by Edward Farmer, 1690; stone church 
built, 1710, on first site; during the Revolutionary 
War, church was occupied by various military forces, 


266 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


used as fort by British with guns in windows; the 
gravestones, long, flat pieces of slate on four columns, 
used as cooking stoves, with fires lighted underneath, 
upright stones were marks for target practice, bullet 
holes may still be seen in them. American forces 
camped here November 22, 1777; being warned by 
Lydia Darragh of a British attack, when the enemy 
made their appearance, General Wayne opened fire 
from Fort Washington, the British retreating with a 
loss of one hundred men. Whitemarsh church is 
repeatedly mentioned in Washington’s diary as a 
center of operations; present church, near first site, 
consecrated, 1881. Gothic, native stone, interesting 
interior, with high pointed roof and narrow lancet 
memorial windows, all made abroad but one, “Angel 
of the Resurrection,” by Tiffany; high on west wall is 
a rose window; three small lights in the George and 
Anna Catherine Sheaff window are said to have been 
painted by Albrecht Durer; reredos, “Christ Breaking 
the Bread,” painted in Italy; altar, Indiana limestone 
with carved angels kneeling; the rood screen with loft, 
English quartered oak, is exquisitely craved. Encir- 
cling a window is mural decoration by Marianna Sloan. 
In the burial ground is an Iona Cross, marking last 
resting place of Henry Howard Houston, for whose 
memorial Houston Hall was given to the University of 
Pennsylvania. 

View from north door of church shows, east, Camp 
Hill; in valley below, Washington’s headquarters, 
stone house two and a half stories, one-half mile east 
from Camp Hill station, Pennsylvania Railroad, left 
wing of army, posted rear of house; here Washing- 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY 267 


ton decided to establish fortified encampment at Valley 
Forge; December 12, whole army ordered to march 
to Valley Forge, via Swedes Ford, Norristown, where 
they crossed the Schuylkill on a bridge of wagons, 
with rails laid over them; “Swedes Ford,” hotel built, 
1723, still standing, at Bridgeport. 

North of St. Thomas Church we locate Fort Wash- 
ington by its flagstaff, in center of earthwork thrown 
up by General Anthony Wayne’s men. West, from 
Church, Militia Hill, where some of the stones, used 
as anchors for tents, are still in position; at foot of 
hill is Wissahickon Creek, over which leads the high 
railroad bridge belonging to the Trenton cut-off of 
the Pennsylvania Railroad. Passing Fortside Inn, 
north, on Bethlehem Pike, is stone marker, inscription 
“About 700 feet south of this stone is an American 
Redoubt and site of Howe’s threatened attack, Decem- 
ber 6, 1777; from here Washington’s army marched 
to Valley Forge. Erected, 1891, by the Pennsylvania 
Society, Sons of the Revolution.” 

Farther on Bethlehem Pike, over Sandy Run, is the 
village of ForT WASHINGTON, now home of the Darby 
School of Painting, a summer art school conducted 
by Hugh H. Breckenridge, member of the faculty 
of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, there 
science of color is taught in its fullest significance. 
On Engertown Road is old Friends meeting house. 
Farther, on Limekiln Pike, is Pennsylvania School of 
Horticulture for Women, post office, Ambler, founded 
in 1910, thorough training, through all seasons, elimi- 
nates waste of costly inexperience, and fits a woman 
for a life that is healthful, attractive, and remunerative. 
Near Sumneytown and Butler Pikeis “Three Tuns Inn.” 


268 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


Gwynedd, meeting house, built, 1700, Welsh Quakers 
worshiped here. 

Down Butler Pike to AMBLER, residence of Dr. R. V. 
Mattison, built, 1890, Scotch baronial style, wrought 
iron gates designed in Munich; opposite is Trinity 
Memorial Church, Romanesque, noted for its beauti- 
ful windows, designed by F. S. Lamb, original, and 
adapted from paintings by world famous artists, of 
scenes in Christ’s life, made by J. and R. Lamb; 
interior paneled in oak, similar to House of Parliament, 
London; font, Italian marble, good design. Through 
Morris Road, over bridge crossed by Washington’s 
army, between Morris and Skippack roads, one mile 
west of Ambler, is stone residence, built by Abraham 
Dawes in 1736, was Washington’s headquarters, Octo- 
ber 21, 1777. 

Out Skippack Road, on road from Center Square to 
HEEBNERVILLE, Washington’s headquarters, October 
16; residence of Peter Wentz, still standing, two 
story, stone, built, 1758. Out Township line to 
KULPSVILLE, on Sumneytown Road, Baptist or Men- 
nonite meeting house, here are buried General Francis 
Nash of North Carolina, and other officers who died of 
wounds received in the Battle of Germantown. North- 
west, one mile, HARLEYSVILLE, residence of Henry 
Funk, Bishop of Mennonite Church, who with the 
Dunkards of Ephrata, made translation, in 1748, from 
the German, of Tielman Jan van Braght’s great his- 
torical book of the Mennonites, termed the noblest 
specimen of American colonial bibliography; Henry 
Funk’s mill, still standing, known as Musselman’s Mill, 
contains a parchment deed, date, 1733, with great seal 
of the province and signature of Thomas Penn. 


MONTGOMERY COUNTY 269 


Return to Skippack Road, to Pennypacker’s Mills, 
SCHWENKSVILLE, residence of the late Governor Sam- 
uel Pennypacker, two story, stone house, Washington’s 
headquarters before and after Battle of Germantown; 
army marched down Skippack Road, 7.00 p. M., 
October 8, to attack the enemy; here October 7, 
Washington received a committee of Friends, appointed 
by the Yearly Meeting, against war ; Schwenksville 
was settled by Schwenkfelders from Silesia in 1734 ; 
Casper Schwenkfeld preached, in 1528, doctrines 
accepted by George Fox in 1648, were forerunners of 
Quakers. Perkiomen Seminary, at Pennsburg, origi- 
nated in a school founded by Schwenkfelders, 1764. 
Down Perkiomen Creek road, over finest old stone 
bridge in state, five arches, built, 17 99, architect, 
George Lewis, carries Ridge Road over Perkiomen 
Creek at COLLEGEVILLE, Ursinus College; Co-ed 
Lutheran, portraits by Albert Rosenthal. And old 
Providence meeting house. 

One mile west, at TRAPPE, Augustus Church, oldest 
Lutheran church in United States; built, 1743; unal- 
tered; used as hospital for American soldiers during 
Revolutionary war; Henry Melchior Muhlenberg was 
sent from Halle, Germany, in 1742, to organize this 
church in -Pennsylvania; first regularly ordained 
preacher, reports he sent to Halle supply much early, 
original information. His sons, born here, were General] 
Peter Muhlenberg, pastor of church in Shenandoah 
Valley, who called on his congregation to enlist in the 
Revolutionary War, and Frederich Augustus, speaker, 
First National Congress, 1789. EVANSBURG, St. 
James Protestant Episcopal Church and schoolhouse, 


270 MONTGOMERY COUNTY 


built about 1700, contains Bible, prayer book, and old 
walnut Communion table, sent over by the English 
Society in 1728, to its foreign mission. Revolutionary 
soldiers are buried in the church yard. Here is an eight 
arch stone bridge, date 1792. 

NORRISTOWN, county seat, settled, 1784, population 
32,319. Courthouse built, 1791, native white marble; 
on grounds is Rittenhouse monument, granite shaft, 
dedicated 1876, marks the meridian. Jail, built, 1851, 
red sandstone, castellated Norman, architect for court- 
house and jail, N. Le Brun. Historical Society of 
Montgomery County has local historical collections. 
St. John’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic, dedi- 
cated, 1815, Revolutionary soldiers are buried in its 
grounds. Montgomery Trust Company, Greek, Ionic, 
Westerly granite and Indiana limestone, facing public 
square, on site of first hotel in Norristown. In Mont- 
gomery Cemetery are buried Charles Heber Clark 
(Max Adler), and General Winfield Scott Hancock. 

PLYMOUTH MEETING, old Friends meeting house, 
built, 1715, stone, used as hospital during Revolu- 
tionary War, Thomas Hovenden, artist, buried in 
grounds; residence of Mrs. Thomas Hovenden (Helen 
Corson), was a noted underground railway station for 
refugee slaves. Stone bridge over Plymouth Creek, 
date, 1796; stone bridge carrying Germantown and 
Reading Railroad over Plymouth Creek, date, 1802. 
BARREN HILL, Lafayette and detachment of army 
attacked here by British, May 18, 1778. RoxBoRouGH, 
Philadelphia, St. Timothy’s Protestant Episcopal 
Church has frieze, procession of angels. Through 
Ridge Avenue to Wissahickon Drive, Fairmount Park, 
to Philadelphia. 


XVI 
DAUPHIN COUNTY 


EAT of state capital; formed March 4, 1785; 

named for title of the Dauphin of France, then 

Louis XVI, in recognition of aid rendered to the 
colonies in Revolutionary War. Chief industries iron 
and steel; in the north, anthracite coal. High moun- 
tain ranges, with valleys of rich rolling farm lands, 
intersected with many streams, show much scenic 
beauty. 

HARRISBURG, county seat; laid out in 1785; popula- 
tion 75,917. The state capitol’s best approach is from 
Third and South Streets, the massive pile looms up in 
exquisite proportion, one is impressed with the inherent 
dignity of the facade, controlled by a well-proportioned 
dome; dedicated in 1906; architect, Joseph W. Huston; 
Roman and Italian Renaissance, with influence of 
Greek Corinthian; dome suggests St. Peter’s in Rome; 
bronze doors, designed by J. W. Huston, were modeled 
by Otto Jansen; superb groups of statuary on either 
side of the main entrance typify, “The Joy, and Burden 
of Life,” sculptor, George Gray Barnard; within the 
rotunda is the splendid collection of battle flags, 378, 
owned by the state; one of the most interesting of the 
kind. 

Mural decorations, the Rotunda; Economic “ Tri- 
umphs of the State,” artist, Sir Edwin A. Abbey; 
from large lunettes show the “Spirits of Commerce, Oil 
(Light), Coal, Steel”; four pendentives contain single 

(271) 


SCALE OF MILES 
nO | 10 20 





DAUPHIN COUNTY 


(272) 


DAUPHIN COUNTY 273 


allegorical figures, Religion, Art, Literature, Science; 
governor’s reception room; frieze, artist, Violet 
Oakley, “Foundations of the State of Liberty Spir- 
itual.” lLunettes, artists, John W. Alexander and 
W. B. Van Ingen, “Growth and Expansion of the State 
of Liberty Spiritual,’’ by the establishment of various 
religious bodies that came to the new colony. House 
of Representatives; wainscoting of marble from the 
French Pyrenees; above the large windows are stained 
glass by W. B. Van Ingen; paintings by Abbey, “The 
Apotheosis of Pennsylvania,” with figures that stand 
as portraits, “Penn’s Treaty with the Indians,” and 
“The Reading of the Declaration of Independence,” 
planned by Abbey and finished in his studio after his 
death; the dome contains his exquisitely painted deco- 
ration, symbolical of the “Passage of the Hours’’; only 
one of Abbey’s paintings for the senate room was fin- 
ished, his “Valley Forge,” it has been placed with his 
others in the House of Representatives; Miss Oakley’s 
paintings were unveiled there in February, 1917; she 
will also decorate the Supreme Court Room. 

The Moravian tiled pavement was designed and 
manufactured by Dr. Henry C. Mercer: these artists 
were all born in Pennsylvania; the consecutive line 
of historical and idealistic thought in the decorations 
was a conception of the architect. In Capitol Park, 
sixteen acres, notable for shrubbery and flowers, is a 
bronze equestrian statue, General and Governor John 
Frederick Hartranft; sculptor, Frederick W. Ruck- 
stuhl; also Mexican monument, white marble, erected 
by the state in 1868, in memory of citizens lost in war 
with Mexico, 1846-48. An elementary course of art 


QT4 DAUPHIN COUNTY 


is taught in nearly every public school in Pennsylvania, 
prepared by the Department of Public Instruction at 
Harrisburg, the basis of all art instruction in normal 
schools; nearly every summer school in the state 
offers a course in freehand drawing, and special courses 
for both grade teachers and supervisors. 
Harrisburg is famous for her park system, the 972 
acres extend along the river front, and to the center 
of the city for over a mile. Harris Park, four acres, 
from Paxton Street to Mulberry Street; contains 
monument to John Harris, first settler, and John 
Harris, Jr., founder of the city; facing the park, 
below Mulberry Street, is the Harris residence, stone, 
built in 1766; little changed from the original form; 
Lincoln® Park, two and one-fourth acres, from Mul- 
berry Street to Market Street, contains memorial, 
“In memory of J. Conrad Weiser, 1696-1764, Pro- 
vincial Interpreter, and his friend Shikellimy, 1683- 
1748, an Oneida Chief.” Erected about 1911. Facing 
this park is the building of the Historical Society of 
Dauphin County, with interesting museum. Prom- 
enade Park, three and one-half acres, Market to State 
Streets; and the D. W. Gross Park, two acres, Water 
to Herr Streets, with bronze memorial statue, a charg- 
ing soldier, in memory of Sylvester P. Sullivan. Reser- 
voir Park, eighty-eight acres, contains the city reser- 
voir, giving a lake setting, with elaborate planting of 
flowers and shrubs; best scenic view is from this eleva- 
tion. Wildwood Park, 666 acres, has a large lake for 
boating. The Boulevard or Parkway, 146 acres, is 
along streams, through ravines, and meadows; land- 
scape architect, Warren H. Manning. | 





THE JOY AND BURDEN OF LIFE 
Harrisburg State Capitol 


George Gray Barnard, Sculptor 
Photographed by Boyd P. Rothrock, Curator 





DAUPHIN COUNTY Q75 


St. Patrick’s Procathedral; architect, George I. 
Lovatt; Renaissance; main altar, marble, is repro- 
duction of Bernini’s altar in St. Peter’s, Rome. In 
Grace Protestant Episcopal Church is a painting by 
E. Irving Couse, “Adoration by the Shepherds.” 
Soldiers’ Monument, State and Second Streets, “‘To 
the Soldiers of Dauphin County, in 1861-65; erected 
by their fellow citizens in 1869.” Bronze tablet in 
west wail of the Camp Curtin School House, corner 
of Sixth and Woodbine Streets; commemorating site 
of old Camp Curtin, 1861-65; placed in 1911, by 
Keystone Chapter, United States Daughters of 1812. 
Memorial Market Street entrance to the City of Har- 
risburg; eastern approach to new bridge, formerly 
the old ‘Camel Back,” includes two columns from 
the old burned state capitol, and commemorative 
bronze tablets, designed by A. Sterling Calder; archi- 
tect, Albert Kelsey; presented by the Henry 
McCormick Estate under auspices of the Harrisburg 
Civic Club; erected and dedicated in 1906. 

HERSHEY, the chocolate town, a model village, out 
of which daily roll fifteen cars loaded with candies 
and chocolate; in 1915 Dunkards came from all over 
the United States to the annual conference of the 
“Church of the Brethren,” held in convention hall 
which seats six thousand, built for them by M. S. 
Hershey, largest meeting in the history of their church. 

The Susquehanna River, one mile wide here, is 
spanned by three other bridges; Mulberry Street via- 
duct is said to be largest reinforced concrete bridge in 
the world, designed and erected by James H. Fuertes; 
stone arch bridge of the Pennsylvania Railroad at 

19 


276 DAUPHIN COUNTY 


Rockville, said to be the largest four-track stone bridge 
in the world. Historic buildings; residence of William 
Maclay, first United States Senator from Pennsylvania, 
built in 1791; original building intact, with large wing 
added; on upper river front above South Street, used 
later by the Harrisburg Academy. Old Derry Church, 
Derry Township, a Presbyterian settlement since 1724, 
first log church built in 1782; present stone building 
on first site, built, 1883; has burial ground of much 
historic interest; Old Hanover Church, Presbyterian, 
eleven miles from Harrisburg, first log church built on 
Bow Creek in 1735; present building closed; the ancient 
burial ground is chief point of interest. Old Paxtang 
Church, Presbyterian, three miles east of Harrisburg, 
first log church said to have been built in 1716, with 
burial ground; present stone building built, 1740. 
Bronze gate and tablet at Paxtang Cemetery is memo- 
rial to soldiers of the French and Indian War and the 
Revolution; dedicated in 1906 by Harrisburg Chapter, 
Daughters of the American Revolution. Fort Hunter, 
five miles from Harrisburg on Fort Hunter and Fishing 
Creek Road, was laid out about 1760, on a high bluff 
facing the Susquehanna River, colonial house, built in 
1814 by Colonel Archibald McAllister, is on founda- 
tions of an English blockhouse known as Hunter’s 
Fort. 


XVII 
LUZERNE COUNTY 


ORMED September 25, 1786; named in honor 
of Anne Cesar, Chevalier de la Luzerne, min- 
ister from France to the United States 1779-83. 
Ranks third in number of inhabitants of Pennsyl- 
vania counties. Along either bank of the Susquehanna, 
a broad and shallow river, lie rich, fertile, alluvial 
bottom lands, mostly well cultivated; bounding them 
are ranges of hills and mountains 1200-1600 feet 
above sea level; other mountains in the northwest of 
the county attain an altitude of 2200 feet. In the 
northeast lies the historic Wyoming Valley, Indian 
name, Maughwauwama, or large plains, a long, oval 
basin from Campbell’s Ledge to Nanticoke Falls, some 
sixteen miles in length, with an average breadth of 
three miles. 

Luzerne County lies within the limits of the Con- 
necticut Charter, granted in 1662, and within the 
limits of the Pennsylvania Charter granted in 1681; 
this double ownership caused much contention in 
later years, finally the Susquehanna Company of 
Connecticut was victorious; settlers now came 
rapidly, and by 1778 were distributed in several 
villages, with schools, churches, and all the charac- 
teristics of New England orderliness and _ thrift, 
enthusiasm and devoted patriotism. The British 
leader, Colonel John Butler, saw that this settlement 
was exposed in position, and that they had sent the 

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ein 


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(278) 


LUZERNE COUNTY 279 


best part of their militia to serve in Washington’s 
army, so with a company of his own rangers, a regi- 
ment of Johnson’s Greens, and a band of Indians, in all 
about 1200 men, he took the warpath from Niagara; 
they journeyed down the Susquehanna in bark canoes, 
landed above the settlement, and began their work of 
murder and plunder, harrowing incidents are made 
known by Campbell in his “Gertrude of Wyoming.” 
The women and children were placed in the fort. At 
the junction of Fort and River Streets, in the borough 
of Forty Fort; a conglomerate boulder with bronze 
tablet, marks the site of “Forty Fort,” erected by the 
Connecticut settlers in 1772. From this fort, on July 3, 
1778, the Wyoming Militia, numbering about 300, 
mostly old men and boys, marched forth to oppose the 
invading British troops and Indians, fight the Battle 
of Wyoming, and meet with complete defeat and atro- 
cious massacre, in which the British officers were un- 
able to set any bounds in the butchery of their savage 
allies; next day the fort was taken; the Indians burned 
all the houses; the inhabitants fled to the woods, and 
the valley was abandoned; a hundred women and 
children perished of fatigue and starvation. On 
Wyoming Avenue in the borough of Wyoming is the 
“Wyoming Monument,” marking the burial place of 
many of the patriots who were slain in the battle and 
massacre; dedicated July, 1846. 

On Susquehanna Avenue near Seventh Street is 
“Queen Esther’s Rock,” a half-breed queen of the 
Senecas, on which she tomahawked fourteen prisoners; 
marked by a tablet, placed by the Daughters of the 
American Revolution, bearing this inscription, ‘Upon 


280 LUZERNE COUNTY 


this rock the Indian queen Esther slaughtered the 
brave patriots taken in the battle of July 3, 1778.” 
On the bank of the river, near the Pittston Ferry 
bridge, in the borough of WEsT PITTSTON, is a small 
monument marking site of Jenkins’ Fort, destroyed 
by the British and Indians July, 1778. The Battle 
of Wyoming, with the subsequent massacre, was one 
of the important events of the Revolutionary War, 
as it led to the sending of the Sullivan Expedition 
in 1779 into the country of the Six Nations, whereby 
the power of their confederacy was forever broken. 
WHITE HAVEN Township was the place of Sullivan’s 
army encampment, in 1779. 

The oldest church in the county is in Forty Fort, 
not far from the site of the old fort, interior of the 
building remains as it was when erected in 1808; in 
the burial ground are many old graves, with head- 
stones bearing quaint inscriptions. Other historic 
places marked by tablet or monument are, site of a 
bridge built by the engineers of General John Sulli- 
van’s army in the spring of 1779, on the banks of Ten 
Mile Run, northwest of Bear Creek Village, marked 
by boulder with tablet. Place where two commis- 
sioned officers, and three others of General Sullivan’s 
army were ambushed and slain by Indians, April, 
1779; marked by boulder with tablet. In the Public 
Square, WILKES-BARRE, is a monument marking site 
of Fort Wilkes-Barre, erected in 1776-77 by the 
inhabitants of the town; destroyed by the British and 
Indians July, 1778. On the river common, at the foot 
of Northampton Street, a boulder, with tablet, marks 
the site of Fort Wyoming, erected, 1771, demolished 


LUZERNE COUNTY 281 


in 1774 or 1775. And at the foot of South Street a 
boulder, with tablet, is erected near the site of Fort 
Durkee, built in 1769 by first settlers from Connecticut, 
named for their leader, Major John Durkee, who 
founded and named Wilkes-Barre in honor of John 
Wilkes and Colonel Barre; this fort fell into decay 
prior to 1776, it was located near site of a village oc- 
cupied from 1758-63 by a band of Delaware Indians 
under “King” Tedyuscung. 

WILKES-BARRE, county seat, was settled, 17 12, 
population, 73,833. Places of modern interest, con- 
taining historical collections, portraits, and paintings, 
open free to the public, are the Courthouse, modified 
adaptation of classic, the fagade, with Ionic porch, is 
very dignified, surmounted by a Gustavino dome; 
architects, Osterling, McCormick & French; said 
to be one of the handsomest and most elaborately 
decorated courthouses in this country; contains 
mural paintings by E. H. Blashfield, Kenyon Cox, 
Will H. Low, William T. Smedley, C. D. Hinton, 
and others. Irem Temple, Moorish design, with tall 
slender minarets at each corner. Osterhout Free 
Library, Gothic. Wyoming Historical and Geological 
Society. The Second National Bank, with inter- 
esting Ionic porch at entrance, steel frame, faced 
with brick and concrete, architects, McCormick & 
French. First Presbyterian Church and St. Stephen’s 
Protestant Episcopal Church contain handsome 
memorial tablets and stained glass windows; a fine 
bronze relief, by J. Massey Rhind, is in St. Stephen’s. 
In the Coal Exchange Building is the Atherton Atelier, 
T. H. Atherton, Jr., Superintendent, Architecture, 


282 LUZERNE COUNTY 


in codperation with Society of Beaux Arts. Par- 
ticular care has been given to improving the public 
parks located in different parts of the city. Public 
square in center, and the river commons, stretching 
along the bank of the Susquehanna for a considerable 
distance, are attractive and noteworthy. Opposite 
the city, across the river, is Riverside Park, chiefly a 
natural grove of old trees. 

The principal educational institution is Wyoming 
Seminary, co-ed, at KINGSTON, founded in 1844, con- 
ducted under auspices of the Wyoming Conference 
of the Methodist Episcopal Church, ranks high as a 
college preparatory school and has an academic art 
course. There are many places of scenic beauty; 
notably the Conyngham dairy and stock farms at 
Hillside, just outside Wyoming Valley, on the road 
from Kingston to Harvey’s Lake, which is 1226 feet 
above sea level; one of the largest stock farms in the 
state, covering 651 acres. Sugarloaf Valley, not far 
from HAZLETON. The Hazleton Country Club. Glen 
Summit Springs and the neighboring country, Bear 
Creek Village, and Wyoming Valley, viewed either 
from Campbell’s Ledge, Mount Lookout, or Prospect 
Rock. 

The principal roads are maintained in good order, 
and there are no toll roads in the county. For many 
years the chief industry has been the mining of anthra- 
cite coal, discovered here in 1762; for a considerable 
period it stood first among the counties in annual 
output; first development of this coal for shipping 
to market from the Wyoming region was in 1776, 
when two Durham boats purchased cargoes from a 


LUZERNE COUNTY 283 


mine operated by R. Greer, near Wyoming. There 
are many large manufactories. Within a ten mile 
circle, having Wilkes-Barre public square as its center, 
there were, according to the United States census of 
1910, thirty-three smaller municipalities, cities, bor- 
oughs, and hamlets, having a total population, includ- 
ing Wilkes-Barre, of 266,951. The other principal 
towns of this county are Hazleton, population 32,277; 
Nanticoke, 22,614; Plymouth, 16,500; Pittston, 18,- 
497; West Pittston, 6968; Kingston, 8952. Peter 
Frederick Rothermel, prominent historical painter, 
was born in Nescopeck, this county, in 1817. 


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HUNTINGDON COUNTY 






FRANKLIN C 


(284) 


XVIII 
HUNTINGDON COUNTY 


ORMED September 20, 1787; named by Provost 
William Smith, of the University of Pennsyl- 
vania, in honor of Selina, Countess of Hunting- 

don, a benefactress of the University; lies within the cen- 
tral mountainous region, being drained by the Juniata. 
Many fine farms are on the rich soil of the river flats. 
' Juniata iron early became famous, and numerous iron 
works were erected; the old Bedford Furnace was near 
Orbisonia. Abundance, variety, and value of the ores; 
rich and convenient deposits of limestone; contiguity of 
the Broad Top, Allegheny and Cumberland coal fields, 
combine to indicate the importance of this country. 
Other industries are coal-mining, lumber, agriculture, 
and manufactories. Large water-power dams of the 
Pennsylvania Central, and Raystown Water Power 
Companies generate electric light and power. 
HUNTINGDON, county seat; population 7051, largest 
town on the Juniata. The first white visitors to this 
region were traders, in traffic with Indians, exchanging 
goods for furs and skins. On incursions, made before 
the middle of the eighteenth century, they found a tribe, 
a branch of the Six Nations, located on the now south- 
east portion of this borough, their wigwams circling 
around a pillar of stone, 14 feet high and 6 inches square, 
covered with hieroglyphics supposed to be a record of 
their history and achievements. This tribe, besides 
hunting and fishing, had cleared land and cultivated 
(285) 


286 HUNTINGDON COUNTY 


corn. This stone was regarded with great veneration by 
the natives; here they had assembled for centuries to 
hold their grand councils; its conspicuous position and 
appearance led the white visitors to name the locality, 
“Standing Stone,” it stood above Second Street, on 
or near 208 Allegheny Street. Conrad Weiser, in 1748, 
and John Harris, in 1754, in accounts of their journeys 
to the Ohio River, both describe this stone. 

The Proprietaries of this province, ever mindful of 
the rights of the Indians, would not grant lands, nor 
permit settlements to be made until the Indian title had 
been purchased; at a treaty held in Albany, in 1754, 
the Six Nations, consisting of the Mohawks, Oneidas, 
Onondagas, Cayugas, Senecas, and Tuscaroras, exe- 
cuted a deed to the Proprietaries for a large portion of 
the province, including the whole valley of the Juniata; 
soon after, the resident tribe migrated, and, it is 
supposed, carried the stone with them. The seal of 
the borough has, as its central figure, a Standing Stone. 
A second stone was erected by the settlers; and in 1896 
a third, at Penn and Third Streets; as a memorial of 
the ancient standing stone of the Indians. Fort 
Standing Stone was built here at an early date; site 
about intersection of Penn and Second Streets, it was 
stockaded and provided with barracks, blockhouses, 
and magazines constructed of heavy hewn timber, and 
was the place of many important incidents during 
troublesome times following the defeat of General 
Braddock in 1755, and until peace was made with 
Great Britain in 1783. 

Provost William Smith, D.D., obtained the land in 
1766 from George Croghan, and numerous other tracts 


HUNTINGDON COUNTY 287 


in the vicinity, and in 1767 caused the town of Hunt- 
ingdon to be laid out, now on the William Penn High- 
way; the proprietor donating plots of ground for a 
public school, cemetery, and to each of six prominent 
religious denominations. About 1797 a post office 
was established here, and John Cadwallader was 
appointed postmaster; a weekly mail was carried be- 
tween Harrisburg and Huntingdon. The most im- 
portant public buildings, architecturally, are Juniata 
College, nine buildings, erected 1878-1916: the older 
buildings are colonial; Library, Gothic, red brick with 
terra-cotta trimmings, built, 1907; contains memorial 
windows; the Church of the Brethren on the college 
campus, Gothic; McGee sandstone; erected, 1910; 
members of this sect settled in this county in 1775; 
and the J. C. Blair Memorial Hospital, Spanish mission 
style, light buff brick and Indiana limestone trimmings, 
on a commanding position overlooking the town. 
E. L. Tilton, New York, architect, also of the College 
Library and Church of the Brethren. 

Among the places of historic interest in the county 
are Fort Shirley, built, 1755, on bluff near site of 
Indian town of Aughwick, now Shirleysburg. 
McAlevey’s Fort, at the head of Standing Stone 
Creek Valley, named for Captain William McAlevey, 
afterwards general in the Revolutionary War. Warm 
Springs, five miles northeast of Huntingdon, known, 
in 1775, as a resort for invalids. Pulpit Rocks on 
the Warriors Ridge, on the old pike between Hunt- 
ingdon and Alexandria. And Jack’s Narrows, where 
the Juniata River cuts through Jack’s Mountain, west 
of Mount Union. The Pennsylvania Canal extended 


288 HUNTINGDON COUNTY 


through this county from Shaver’s Aqueduct, below 
Mount Union, to line of Blair County, above Water 
Street; here in Indian times canoes came to receive 
supplies of lead. Two miles east is ALEXANDRIA, laid 
out, 1793; in 1800 the turnpike was completed to 
Alexandria, and stage service to Harrisburg began; 
fare charged travelers was six cents a mile; this town 
was the shipping point of grain for the rich Hart’s 
Log and Shaver’s Creek valleys. 


XIX 
ALLEGHENY COUNTY 


ORMED September 24, 1788; named from Dela- 
} ware Indian word signifying “Fair Water.” 

Surface undulating, many elevations being 
precipitous. Is the center of one of the richest 
bituminous coal and natural gas districts in the world. 
Oil fields lie mainly in basins of Allegheny and Ohio 
Rivers. Staple manufactures are iron, steel and 
glass. The history of Allegheny County presents a 
greater variety of startling incidents than almost 
any other portion of the state. Mound builders 
were primeval inhabitants, site of ancient fortifica- 
tions are on Chartier’s Creek, eight miles from 
PITTSBURGH, county seat, second city in size in the 
state, on site of Shannopin’s Town, chief of about 
twenty families of Delawares; he attended councils 
with the Governor; his name is signed on several 
state archives. By it ran the main Indian path 
from east to west. 

Washington first came to “The Forks,” in 1753, on 
way to Fort Le Boeuf. The French possessed it as 
Fort Duquesne 1754-58, when it was conquered by 
General Forbes; General Stanwix erected a stockade 
and named it Fort Pitt, for the British premier. In 
1764, Colonel Bouquet built a redoubt on site of the 
Fort; old brick blockhouse is still standing, Penn 
Avenue near Second Street. First town of Pittsburgh 
built near the Fort in 1760, inhabitants enjoyed com- 

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ALLEGHENY COUNTY 291 


parative quiet until 1768, when Pontiac’s War broke 
out and they were completely surrounded by savages, 
later rescued by Colonel Bouquet. In 1811 first 
steamboat ever run on western waters was launched 
at Pittsburgh, the ‘“‘New Orleans.” In 1889 first iron 
steamboat made in the United States, the “Valley 
Forge,” was built here. 

The sister city, ALLEGHENY, north side, was incor- 
porated with Pittsburgh in 1907, combined population 
588,343. An art commission was organized, 1911, for 
an improvement in public works of art in Pittsburgh, 
and to educate public sentiment for civic beautifica- 
tion; in 1915, E. H. Bennett, City Planning Architect 
of Chicago, was engaged to make a thorough economic 
and esthetic analysis of “The Point,” at junction of 
the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers. 

Close to the business center is SCHENLEY PARK, 440 
acres, acquired by gift to the city in 1889, contains 
the Carnegie Institute; Carnegie Institute of Tech- 
nology; Phipps Conservatory and Hall of Botany, 
given by Mr. Phipps in memory of his mother, with 
one of the most beautiful bronze statues in the world, 
“Mother and Child,’ French sculptor; Hawkins 
Memorial, a bronze portrait figure, backed by wall of 
polished granite, base and floor marble, sculptor, 
Richard H. Couper, erected, 1904, in honor of Colonel 
Hawkins, Tenth Pennsylvania Regiment, in Spanish- 
American War; Panther Hollow, in which is an arch 
bridge, Beaver County sandstone, with panthers, 
sculptor, G. Moretti; and two other stone arch bridges 
built in 1892, architect, A. L. Schultz. 

Near the Forbes Avenue entrance is the great central 

20 


292 ALLEGHENY COUNTY 


building of the CARNEGIE INSTITUTE, established by 
Andrew Carnegie with large annual fund, in perpetuity, 
for purchase of objects of art and scientific collections; 
built 1892-95, Italian Renaissance, sandstone, archi- 
tects, Alden & Harlow, enlarged in 1904-07, contains 
Library, Music Hall, Department of Fine Arts, and 
the Natural History Museum, in which are large col- 
lections of ancient pottery, Chinese glass, and porce- 
lains representing various eras; jades and crystals; 
valuable collections of coins and medals; illuminated 
manuscripts and early printed books, cut and uncut 
gems; one of the largest collections of carved ivory in 
the United States; and art metal work. The Library 
operates more than one hundred and seventy agencies 
for free distribution of literature, within “Greater Pitts- 
burgh.”’ 

On top of the building are four bronze groups, repre- 
senting Science, Art, Literature, and Music. Bronze 
statues, Michelangelo and Galileo, are at entrance 
to Art Gallery. Entrance to Music Hall is through 
exquisitely designed bronze doors, wrought in relief, 
with bronze statues, Bach and Shakespeare, at either 
side. These bronzes were designed and modeled in 
the studio of J. Massey Rhind, and cast in Naples. 
Foyer to the Music Hall is considered the most beauti- 
ful portion of the Institute; here are twenty-four huge 
columns of Tinos marble, with gilded Corinthian 
capitals; and one of the finest organs in the world, on 
which the greatest organists obtainable give concerts 
of highly classical music, which are free, every Saturday 
night and Sunday afternoon. The great Archer, Queen 
Victoria’s Jubilee organist, held this position for many 





GALLERY OF THE[SCULPTURE HALL, CARNEGIE INSTITUTE, PITTSBURGH 





ALLEGHENY COUNTY 293 


years. The Hall of Sculpture, designed on lines of the 
Parthenon, is two stories high, around the first story is 
a Greek Doric colonnade; above this is a row of Ionic 
columns, all of the most flawless, milk-white, Panteli- 
con marble, dug out of the quarries from which the 
marble of the Parthenon itself was obtained; collec- 
tions of sculpture represent, chronologically, its history 
from early Egyptian to the Renaissance of the sixteenth 
century. 

Among the artists represented in the permanent 
collection of paintings are Dagnan Bouveret, “Dis- 
ciples at Emmaus”; Winslow Homer, “Wreck”; 
Whistler, “Sarasate’; E. A. Abbey, “The Penance of 
Eleanor’’; George Innes, “The Clouded Sun”; also 
Anton Mauve, Bastien Le Page, Raffaelli, Gari Mel- 
chers, Jules Simon, and Childe Hassam. Annual ex- 
hibitions of international modern art are held in May 
and June, and many others by different art societies 
during the year. In the Entrance Hall are mural 
decorations by the late John W. Alexander, a native 
of Pittsburgh, typifying “The Apotheosis of Pitts- 
burgh”; they surround the staircase and galleries to 
the third floor. Art societies holding annual exhibitions 
at the Carnegie Institute are, Associated Artists of 
Pittsburgh, organized, 1910; Art Society of Pitts- 
burgh, organized, 1873, supported the Pittsburgh 
Orchestra for fifteen years, and gives excellent free 
exhibitions and lectures; Duquesne Ceramic Club, 
organized, 1891; Pittsburgh Architectural Club, 
Chapter Architectural League of America, organized, 
1897. Pittsburgh Etching Club, organized, 1909, held 
exhibition of Whistler’s etchings in 1914. 


294 ALLEGHENY COUNTY 


In the park, west of this building, is the Christopher 
Magee memorial fountain, made in 1907, granite, sculp- 
tor, Augustus Saint Gaudens. In front is Industry 
Statue, marble, after model in the Louvre, Paris. The 
Technical School, brick, built, 1905, architect, Henry 
Hornbostel, includes, in the art course, day and 
evening classes in applied design, and department of 
architecture. The Pittsburgh Athletic Association, 
architects, Janssen & Abbott, has interior decorations 
by Alfred Herter, and collection of paintings. Drink- 
ing fountain, Fifth Avenue, front of Montefiore Hall, 
placed in 1912, granite, with carved profile of an 
Indian; inscription, “‘Catahecassa, Black Hoof, war 
chief of the Shawnees,’”’ was present at Braddock’s 
defeat in 1754, a friend and ally of the United States. 

In SCHENLEY FARMS, directly opposite the entrance 
to Schenley Park, is the University of Pittsburgh, on 
a natural amphitheater. The buildings stand out 
very effectively against the sky line; founded in 1887, 
architect, Henry Hornbostel; landscape architect, 
Cass Gilbert; has departments of fine and industrial 
arts. Memorial Hall to Soldiers and Sailors of the 
Civil and Spanish Wars contains historic flags, statues, 
trophies and historical portraits. 

Other parks are ALLEGHENY, north side, ninety acres, 
with monuments in honor of Washington, equestrian, 
made 1891, sculptor, Frederick Mayer; Baron von 
Humboldt, made 1869; Thomas A. Armstrong; and 
the Hampton Monument, made 1871, granite shaft, 
surmounted by bronze figure of a gunner, commemo- 
rates the bravery of Hampton’s Battery in the Civil 
War. Within east entrance of Allegheny Cemetery 


ALLEGHENY COUNTY 295 


is the Arsenal Explosion Monument in honor of those 
who lost their lives September 17, 1862. Monu- 
ment to General Alexander Hays, who was killed in 
the battle of the Wilderness, in 1864, by soldiers of 
his command. Gothic receiving vault. The Bindley 
mausoleum, replica of Napoleon’s tomb in Paris, pure 
example of the Renaissance, has window by William 
and Annie Lee Willet. The Porter Angel and Cross, 
imported from Italy, fine example of marble carving. 
The Byers mausoleum, imitation of Temple of Minerva 
at Athens, white granite. Near by is: the United 
States Arsenal, in ornamental grounds. RIVERSIDE 
PARK, on Perrysville Avenue, 217 acres purchased by 
popular subscription in 1894, has beautiful drives and 
footpaths; contains the observatory, connected with 
Allegheny University, in which the telescope was made 
by Mr. and Mrs. Tillinghast, in their home workshop 
opposite. 

HIGHLAND PARK, 300 acres, northeast limit of city, 
acquired, 1872, has main water reservoirs and the 
Zoélogical Gardens; main gateway is 56 feet high 
with Doric columns, surmounted by bronze groups 
representing “Welcome,” and bronze figures at base; 
Stanton Avenue entrance has two granite pedestals 
surmounted by equestrian statues, sculptor, G. Moretti, 
made 1897; in the park is Robert Burns statue, sculp-’ 
tor, J. Massey Rhind; and heroic bronze group, por- 
trait statue, sculptor, G. Moretti, of Stephen C. Foster, 
1826-64, standing pen in hand, beside a negro who is 
seated and playing a banjo; Foster wrote “Old Uncle 
Ned” and “Old Folks at Home’; was native of Pitts- 
burgh; his grave is in Allegheny Cemetery. The view 


296 ALLEGHENY COUNTY 


from Highland Park is very beautiful. Highland and 
Schenley Parks are connected by Highland Avenue 
and the Boulevard, making a continuous drive which 
forms the Carnegie promenade. The Soldiers’ Monu- 
ment is on Monument Hill, erected in 1871, to four 
thousand men of Allegheny County killed in the Civil 
War. Wayside Fountain, Fifth Avenue near Wood- 
land Road. 

Churches with notable architecture and windows: 
RODEF SHALOM Synagogue, Fifth Avenue and More- 
wood Street, architect, Henry Hornbostel, is said to 
have the finest tile dome in this country; windows, 
antique glass, from original drawings, made by William 
and Annie Lee Willet. St. PAuL’s Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, Fifth Avenue, corner of Craig Street, stone, 
fourteenth century Gothic, built, 1907, architects, 
Egan & Prindeville; has beautiful altar of carved 
Carrara marble; pews and pulpit made of bog oak 
from Ireland; bronze stations, by Seibel, said to be 
largest and most artistic in the world; the great west 
window transepts, clerestories, ornamental and heraldic 
glass made by Willet, in the later delicate French 
Gothic spirit; also there is here much modern German 
and English giass. FIRST BAPTIST, Bellefield Avenue 
and Bayard Street, pure Gothic, fourteenth century, 
stone, built, 1902, architects, Cram, Goodhue & 
Ferguson. 

THIRD PRESBYTERIAN, Fifth Avenue and South Neg- 
ley Street, one of the most beautiful Gothic churches 
in the United States for spontaneity of design, 
warmth, and golden tints of stone; architect, The- 
ophilus P. Chandler; windows by Willet are “The 





THE CROWNING OF LABOR 


Fragment from the Apotheosis of Pittsburgh, Mural in the 
Carnegie Institute, Pittsburgh 


Painted by John W. Alexander 





ALLEGHENY COUNTY 297 


Ten Virgins,’ made, 1904, “The Holy City,” 1905, 
of great beauty and color; and fine ornamental win- 
dows in clear glass with heraldic ornaments, in 
medieval hand-wrought lead; transept windows by 
Tiffany, American opalescent glass; east aisle window 
by Kenyon Cox; west aisle by McCausland, Toronto; 
this is an excellent church in which to study the different 
~ schools of glass. 

CALVARY Protestant Episcopal, Shady Avenue and 
Walnut Street, Bedford limestone, thirteenth century 
Gothic, copy of Netley Abbey, architect, Ralph 
Adams Cram; the windows by William and Annie 
Lee Willet are among the most notable contributions 
to stained-glass art in this country, recalling those 
of the great Chartres Cathedral, with amount of 
painting reduced to a minimum, and lead treated as 
respectfully as the glass; also a Tiffany window, and 
some excellent English glass.) EPIPHANY Roman 
Catholic, Washington and Franklin Streets, Roman- 
esque, with Byzantine details, contains some beautiful 
art work, including “The Twelve Apostles,” by Taber 
Sears. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN, Sixth Avenue and Wood 
Street, site deeded by John Penn in 1787; stone, 
French Gothic, erected in 1905, architect, T. P. Chand- 
ler, Philadelphia, has fine echo organ and chimes; 
windows by Tiffany, Lamb, and Clayton & Bell, 
London; medallion window and ornamental work by 
Willet. In LUTHERAN Church, Sixth Avenue, sanc- 
tuary window by Clayton & Bell, purely flat decoration, 
also window by Frederick Wilson. MOUNT ALVERNIA 
Chapel, Order of St. Francis, contains mural decora- 
tions by William Willet. 


298 ALLEGHENY COUNTY 


METHODIST, Beech Avenue, NorTH SIDE, stained 
glass window by Tiffany. Near by is the Carnegie 
Free Library, Federal and Ohio Streets, Romanesque; 
Fox Island granite with red granite trimmings; built, 
1890; architect, H. H. Richardson; contains Library, 
Art Gallery, and Music Hall; in front is monument 
to Colonel James Anderson, red granite with bronze 
portrait bust, 1785-1861, sculptor, Daniel Chester 
French. Allegheny Post Office, French Renaissance, 
built, 1898, noted for gold dome; near by is colossal 
statue of “Labor.” 

Allegheny County Courthouse, Fifth Avenue and 
Grant Street, Romanesque, Worcester granite and 
marble, tower 425 feet high, built, 1888, the master- 
piece of the great architect, H. H. Richardson; its 
interiors are equally imposing, the proportions of the 
corridors and especially the fan lancet, and convex- 
shaped ceiling, with its thousands of interlacing arches, 
twenty-one of which can be seen at one glance from 
the base of one of the stairways, excites the admiration 
of all beholders; it is without any other decoration but 
the beauty of its lines and shadows. Gaol is connected 
by facsimile of Bridge of Sighs. Frick building, built 
in 1902, Fifth Avenue and Grant Street, architects, 
D. H. Burnham & Co., a granite office structure twenty 
stories high, of the Greek Doric order; erected to ex- 
press grace and beauty; batters from stylobate to 
cornice, three feet narrower at top than base; basement 
and entrance halls lined with Carrara marble; panels of 
Pavonazzo marble in ceiling; offices decorated with 
frescoes of the old Italian school; restaurant, medieval 
German; the Club story, Louis XIV style, is in stucco, 





THE BLOCK HOUSE, PITTSBURGH 





ALLEGHENY COUNTY 299 


marble, bronze, and frescoes; two large bronze lions 
by Phimister Proctor are in entrance hall. 

Bank of Pittsburgh, Fourth Avenue near Wood 
Street, classic, Alden & Harlow, architects, has mural 
decorations, allegorical of Pittsburgh, by Edwin H. 
Blashfield and the late Francis D. Millet. Iron City 
Bank, Westinghouse Building, mural decorations by 
William Willet. Farmer’s Deposit Bank, sculptured 
frieze by J. Massey Rhind. Chamber of Commerce 
contains portraits of many prominent citizens. Friend- 
ship School, Friendship and Graham Streets, historical 
paintings of Penn, Washington, and Lincoln, by 
William Willet. View of the city seen from Mount 
Washington, with rivers and encircling hills, is more or 
less enveloped in smoke, excepting Sunday. Seventy- 
five per cent of the smoke nuisance in Pittsburgh has 
been abated. 

BRADDOCK, population 20,879, on Monongahela 
River, twelve miles below Pittsburgh, famous, first as 
battle ground, General Braddock’s defeat by French 
and Indians, 1754, when General Washington won 
his spurs, now is home of the Carnegie Steel Company. 
St. Mary’s Protestant Episcopal Church, windows 
and mural decorations by William and Annie Lee 
Willet, Philadelphia. At mouth of the Youghiogheny 
River, so named by early explorers from hearing 
Indians calling to each other across its width, some- 
thing that sounded like it, and meaning “Come 
again.”” MMCKEESPORT, home of the National Tube 
Company, producing more wrought iron pipes than 
any other plant in the world; St. Peter’s Church, 
altar window by William and Annie Lee Willet. 


300 ALLEGHENY COUNTY 


Down the Ohio River, about six miles from Pitts- 
burgh, begins Seven Mile Island, a garden spot, one 
time home of the famous Queen Alliquippa. Six 
miles farther is SEWICKLEY (Sweetwater), population 
4955, named by Indians on account of its maple 
trees, on Lincoln Highway, a beautiful residence sec- 
tion with country estates which rival those about 
Philadelphia and New York. St. James’ Church, 
window by William Willet. WILKINSBURG, population 
24,403, within fifteen minutes of Carnegie Institute, 
has Wilkensburg Bank, classic, marble, built, 1909, 
architects, Moubly & Ussinger; and Rowland Theatre, 
built, 1912, Corinthian, architect, Hodgkinson. 


XX 
MIFFLIN COUNTY 


ORMED September 19, 1789; named for Gen- 
5) eral Thomas Mifflin, then President of the 
Supreme Executive Council of Pennsylvania, 
1788-90, and first Governor under the Constitution 
of 1790. Scenery throughout is very beautiful; the 
twelve mile stretch of State highway through the 
famous long Lewistown Narrows gives glimpses of the 
Juniata, the peerless little river of more song and 
romance than any other in America, made famous by 
Mrs. Sullivan’s song, ‘The Beautiful Blue Juniata,” 
telling the love story of Alfarata, the roving Indian 
girl; the space between the mountains is barely wide 
enough to contain the highway, canal, river, and 
railroad. Mountains slope one thousand feet and are 
popular hunting grounds for bear and wild turkeys; 
quite a number of caves are found in the limestone 
formations of this county, though not easily accessible; 
Alexander’s, in Kishacoquillas Valley, abounds in 
stalactites and stalagmites, preserving in midsummer 
ice formed in winter; Naginey’s Cave, near Milroy, 
is most spacious; Hanawalt’s Cave, near McVeytown, 
is of vast dimensions and contains calcareous concre- 
tions; crude saltpetre has been obtained here; McVey- 
town is birthplace of Joseph Trimble Rothrock, M.D. 
Celebrated springs are Mifflin, near Painterville 
Station, has medicinal waters; and Logan’s, six miles 
from Lewistown, near Reedsville, on left of the old 
(301) 


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MIFFLIN COUNTY 


(302) 


MIFFLIN COUNTY 303 


stage road between Lewistown and Bellefonte, Center 
County; here the Mingo Chief, Logan, friend of white 
man, Shikellimy’s son, had his cabin, prior to 1771, 
when he left this region; he made the famous speech 
sent to Lord Dunmore in 1774, considered, among 
American classics, as a rare specimen of Indian oratory: 
“T appeal to any white man to say if ever he entered 
Logan’s cabin hungry, and he gave him not meat; if 
he ever came cold and naked, and he clothed him not; 
during the course of the last long bloody war Logan 
remained idle in his cabin, an advocate for peace. 
Such was my love for the whites that my countrymen 
pointed at me as they passed, and said: ‘Logan is the 
friend of white men.’ I had even thought to have 
lived with you, but for the injuries of one man, Colonel 
Cresap, the last spring, in cold blood and unprovoked, 
murdered all the relations of Logan, not sparing even 
my women and children; there runs not a drop of my 
blood in the veins of any living creature; this called on 
me for revenge; I have sought it; I have killed many; 
I have glutted my vengeance; for my country, I rejoice 
at the beams of peace, but do not think that mine 
is the joy of fear; Logan never felt fear. Logan will 
not turn on his heel to save his life; who is there to 
mourn for Logan? Not one!’’ (Colonel Michael 
Cresap was not responsible for the murder of Logan’s 
family; some white men, led by a liquor dealer, 
murdered them.) 

First settlers, Scotch-Irish, in 1754, were not mo- 
lested by Indians until 1756. Fort Granville was 
built, one mile northwest of Lewistown, on the old 
turnpike, site to be marked by the Pennsylvania 


304 MIFFLIN COUNTY 


State Historical Society; it was destroyed when the 
canal was constructed. In 1829 the Pennsylvania 
Canal was opened and first packet boat run from 
Lewistown to Mifflintown. Chief industries are 
agriculture, and iron and steel works. Iron ore of 
the best quality abounds; two furnaces, belonging 
to the Glamorgan Iron Company, were destroyed in 
July, 1874, by a tornado that left scarcely a property 
without damage; the bridge over the Juniata was 
also destroyed, rebuilt, and again destroyed by ice 
freshets in December, 1874, and February, 1875. 
In Limestone Ridge, extending from Kishacoquillas 
Creek, is found hard, white sandstone, almost pure 
silicon, used in glass manufacture. 

LEWISTOWN, population 9849, made county seat, 
1790, was at first Kishacoquillas’ Village, a chief of the 
Shawnees, with a population in 1731, of twenty fami- 
lies, located at the mouth of the stream. Courthouse, 
facing the square, brick, colonial with Ionic portico, 
and cupola, built, 1848, enlarged in the rear. Granite 
monument, dedicated, 1906, in honor of Mifflin County 
soldiers and sailors, is in the square. One block away 
on South Main Street is the Kishacoquillas Creek 
bridge, stone and concrete, built, 1902, a reconstruc- 
tion of the old two-arch stone bridge built in 1807, the 
first was wood, in 1794; on the left is an old stone 
building, erected about 1794, a historic landmark that 
has served for many uses, once the “Seven Stars Inn,” 
1828-29; also a Masonic hall, 1830-39, it has two cel- 
lars, one beneath the other. Ata point along the creek, 
just above the old building, is where Commodore 
David Conner, as a boy, made little boats and pitted 





OLD STONE ARCH ON JACK’S CREEK 
Built over one hundred years ago 





MIFFLIN COUNTY 305 


them against each other in mimic warfare, thus fore- 
shadowing his brilliant naval career in the War of 1812 
and the Mexican War. Just above, on the high bank, 
fronting on Water and Brown Streets, is Lewistown’s 
oldest burial grounds. Here are the graves of the Buch- 
anan family, first settlers and owners of the land on 
which Lewistown is built. One mile east of Lewis- 
town, on the oldest wagon and stage road running par- 
allel with the present state highway, is an old stone 
arch bridge, over one hundred years old, a favorite 
subject for artists; it is near the bridge crossing Jacks 
Creek, on the state highway through Lewistown Nar- 
rows. Mount UNION, on southern boundary, lies at 
entrance to Jacks Narrows, made by the river forcing 
its way through Jacks Mountain. 


SCALE OF SMILES 















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STATE OF ~*<S4f 
DELAWARE : 





DELAWARE COUNTY 


(306) 


XXI 
DELAWARE COUNTY 


Formed from Chester County, September 26, 1789; 
named for Delaware River. Automobile Trip to 
Chester, return by Media and Swarthmore 


ROM Thirty-second and Market Streets, Phila- 
F delphia, out Woodland Avenue (Darby Road),, 

laid out in 1687, the old King’s Road, pass 
UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA buildings, to Woop- 
LANDS CEMETERY, between Thirty-ninth to Forty- 
second Streets, seventy-five acres, acquired in 1840, 
contains colonial homestead, residence of William 
Hamilton, English Deputy Governor of Pennsylvania, 
under grant from William Penn, built, 1747-50, stone 
and brick; has portico, with pediment supported by 
six columns; considered by architects best specimen 
of colonial architecture in Philadelphia; many rare 
trees are there, sent by Mr. Hamilton in his trips 
abroad; to him Philadelphia owes the gingko tree of 
Japan and many varieties of magnolia. 

BARTRAM’S GARDEN,. 28 acres, open free to the 
public, one quarter mile south on Fifty-fourth Street, 
first botanical garden of international importance in 
United States; ground purchased by John Bartram, 
in 1728; from here he traveled long distances to Florida, 
the Adirondacks, everywhere collecting rare plants 
that he brought home in his saddlebags; he wrote 
down the results of his explorations, and sent to Europe 

21 (807) 


308 DELAWARE COUNTY 


botanical specimens of great interest, also painted 
sheets of illustrations, sending one set to the South 
Kensington Museum, London, which are still there in 
perfect condition; Linnzeus proclaimed him the greatest 
natural botanist in the world, and sent him books and 
apparatus; his quaint old stone house is still standing, 
built by himself in 1731; his son, William Bartram, 
botanist and ornithologist, published the most com- 
plete list of American birds, previous to Alexander 
Wilson, whom he greatly assisted. Wilson lived at 
the corner of Fifty-first Street and Woodland Avenue, 
in a log house with an immense stone chimney. Near 
Bartram’s Garden, on the Schuylkill River bank, at 
the western end of Gray’s Ferry Bridge, is site of Gray’s 
Garden, pleasure resort, time of Washington, reached 
from Philadelphia by a floating bridge, replaced by 
wooden telescope drawbridge built in 1808, by the 
P., W. & B. R. R.; stone monument, still standing, 
covered with most interesting and historically valuable 
inscriptions, marks opening of the first railroad to the 
South. 

Sixty-fifth Street and Woodland Avenue, St. James’ 
Protestant Episcopal Church, Kingsessing, built by 
the Swedes, 1762, building practically unchanged, has 
interesting burial ground.  Sixty-ninth Street and 
Paschall Avenue is an old yellow mansion, built about 
1723, home of the Paschalls, General Howe’s head- 
quarters after the Battle of Brandywine. Seventieth 
Street and Woodland Avenue, quaint old building, 
the Bannaker School, built in 1789, said to be oldest 
public-school building in Philadelphia, now used in 
connection with the school garden. Seventy-third 


DELAWARE COUNTY 309 


Street, Blue Bell Tavern, opposite, was terminus of 
the great trading path of the Minquas Indians leading 
from the Susquehanna; Island Road leads to ‘‘Cannon 
Ball” farmhouse, below Penrose Ferry, struck during 
bombardment of Fort Mifflin in 1777. 

Crossing Cobb’s Creek, the southern boundary of 
the city, and county of Philadelphia, we enter DELA- 
WARE COUNTY, the oldest settled section of Pennsyl- 
vania. DARBY, an ancient town, birthplace of John 
Bartram, contains many old houses, and a Friends’ 
meeting house, dating from the eighteenth century, 
with picturesque burying ground, where many colonial 
notables lie in unmarked graves; SHARON HILL, resi- 
dential suburb, Convent of Holy Child Jesus, occupies 
buildings erected for John Jackson’s Quaker School, 
famous in the middle of the last century; new deco- 
rated Gothic chapel of stone. Beyond NORWOOD is 
the old White Horse Hotel, now abandoned, built, 1720. 

One and one-half miles to left, at ESSINGTON, on 
Tinicum Island, first permanent European settlement 
in Pennsylvania made by Swedes under Governor John 
Printz, 1643; fort built, named ‘‘New Gottenburg”’; 
and government established. RIDLEY PARK, resi- 
dential suburb; fine view to left, of Tinicum and 
the Delaware River, old quarantine station known as 
the Lazaretto; the Corinthian and Philadelphia Yacht 
Clubs are on the river front. LEIPERVILLE, MclIlvain 
house, stone, opposite Colonial Hotel; Washington 
spent the night here after the Battle of Brandywine, 
and troops were encamped on slopes to the right. 
Hendrixson house, very ancient, built by Swedish 
settlers. Pass Baldwin Locomotive Works and great 
munition factories into 


310 DELAWARE COUNTY 


CHESTER, population 58,030, settled by Swedes 
about 1644, the oldest town in Pennsylvania, known 
as Upland until 1682, when Penn, landing here on 
October 28, named it Chester after the home of his 
companion, Pearson, in England. Penn convened 
here, in November, 1682, the first Assembly of the 
Province, at which was passed the “Great Law”’; the 
Upland court was held here from 1668 to 1682; the 
courts of Chester County from 1682 until their removal 
to West Chester in 1786, and the courts of Delaware 
County from 1789 to 1851; Chester has grown from 
an ancient country town to a bustling industrial city, 
but many antiquities are preserved; principal among 
these are the old City Hall, stone, with pent roof pro- 
jection and quaint clock tower, erected in 1724; the 
oldest public building in Pennsylvania, and one of the 
oldest in America; used as Chester County courthouse 
for sixty-two years, Delaware County courthouse for 
sixty-one years, and as hall of Chester borough and 
city since 1851; now being restored by the Pennsyl- 
vania Historical Commission and Honorable William 
C. Sproul, under contract that the city will maintain 
it for public uses forever. 

Opposite on Market Street is the Washington House, 
erected and licensed as the ‘Pennsylvania Arms” in 
1747, still maintained as a tavern; in this house, at 
midnight on September 11, 1777, Washington wrote 
his report to Congress of the Battle of Brandywine. 
Hope’s Anchor Tavern, Fourth and Market Streets, 
built by David Cowpland prior to 1746. Group of old 
houses at Second and Edgmont Streets, Logan house, 
1700, where Lafayette’s wounds were dressed after the 





seenttectnenns sas atten yarnevownianeseesten 








ALFRED O. DESHING MEMORIAL ART GALLERY, CHESTER 
Frazer and Robert, Architects 





DELAWARE COUNTY 311 


Battle of Brandywine, and Lloyd house, built in 1703 
by David Lloyd, chief justice of Pennsylvania; here 
also stood the first courthouse, or ‘‘ House of Defense,” 
and first Quaker meeting. 

Across Chester Creek, at the foot of Penn Street, 
is a memorial stone, erected on the two hundredth 
anniversary, to mark the spot where William Penn 
first landed in Pennsylvania; and near by, Lord Balti- 
more and William Markham, in 1681, took observa- 
tions to determine the fortieth parallel of latitude, and 
location of boundary between Pennsylvania and Mary- 
land; also site of Essex House, home of Robert Wade, 
wherein was held, in 1675, the first Friends meeting in 
Pennsylvania. Blue Anchor Tavern and Steamboat 
Hotel, near Second and Market Streets, bear marks of 
bombardment by the British frigate Augusta in 1777. 
Friends meeting house, erected, 1736, modernized in 
1882; Friends Burying Ground formed, 1692, contains 
graves of Chief Justice David Lloyd, who died in 1731, 
and Grace Lloyd, his wife, who died in 1760, Justice 
Caleb Cowpland, Judge Henry Hale Graham, and, in 
unmarked tombs, many of the founders and pioneers 
of the commonwealth. 

St. Paul’s graveyard, Third and Market Streets; 
tomb of John Morton, a signer of the Declaration of 
Independence, who cast the deciding vote in the 
Pennsylvania delegation; also of D. Paul Jackson, 
Burgess of Chester, who was the first man to receive 
a degree from the University of Pennsylvania; and a 
quaint old memorial cut in sandstone with oddly 
carved figures and devices, dedicated to James Sande- 
lands, who died, 1698, taken from the old church, 


312 DELAWARE COUNTY 


erected in 1703. Chester Rural Cemetery, burial place 
of General Edward F. Beale, pioneer of California; 
has many interesting memorials. 

Alfred O. Deshong Memorial Park of twenty-eight 
acres, in the heart of the city, with white marble art 
gallery, late Italian Renaissance, finished in 1916, de- 
signed by Brazer & Robb, New York, for Mr. Deshong’s 
collection of about 200 paintings, bronzes, ivories, etc.; 
rare Japanese bronze lanterns and figures are in the 
grounds, and two remarkable bronze dogs with paws on 
cloisonné balls, at entrance; fine bronze doors and erills; 
also his old mansion, all given to the city of Chester with 
a large endowment, for public use forever. St. Paul’s 
Protestant Episcopal Church, Broad and Madison 
Streets, founded in 1702, third building of this con- 
gregation, erected, 1900; twelfth century English 
Gothic, granite and limestone, architects, Nattress & 
Son; altar by Nattress, white marble: mosaic reredos, 
“The Supper at Emmaus,” after Rembrandt ; chancel 
window by Tiffany, “Conversion of St. Paul,” after 
Doré; memorial to Rev. Henry Brown, rector for thirty 
years; clerestory windows, four Evangelists, by Nicola 
d’Ascenzo; chalice and salver given by Sir Jeffry Jef- 
frys in 1705, chalice and salver given by Queen Anne, 
in 1707, all of beautifully hammered silver, still in use; 
fine chime of ten bells; large folio Bible given at found- 
ing of the church by the Society in London, for the 
Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, to which 
St. Paul’s owed much in its early years. 

St. Michael’s Roman Catholic Church, Edgmont 
Avenue above Seventh Street, granite, Gothic, fine 
altar and paintings. First Baptist Church, Seventh 


DELAWARE COUNTY 313 


and Fulton Streets, stone, Gothic, founded, 1850, 
third edifice endowed by the Gartside and Crozer 
families. First Presbyterian Church, Fourth and 
Welsh Streets, brick, stuccoed, erected in 1852, fine 
memorial windows. Third Presbyterian Church, 
Broad and Potter Streets, stone, fine windows and 
carvings in wood. Madison Street Methodist Epis- 
copal Church, Seventh and Madison Streets, organized 
in 1818 by John Kelly in his home; afterward services 
were held in the Courthouse for many years, where 
Bishop Asbury preached; present church erected, 1874, 
green serpentine. High school, stone, with command- 
ing tower, West Ninth Street, modeled after Post Office 
Building at Washington. 

Pennsylvania Military College, Fourteenth Street, 
handsome buildings with complete military and aca- 
demic equipment; incorporated as a military university 
in 1862, by Colonel Theodore Hyatt; contributed many 
officers to the nation’s service; present buildings 
erected in 1882, after a fire which destroyed the original 
structures. Chester Park and Crozer Park contain 
about 150 acres in valleys of Ridley and Chester creeks. 
Chester is a port of entry and contains large shipyards, 
steel, engineering, and textile industries. 

UPLAND, founded by John P. Crozer in 1845 when he 
established cotton mills there on the site of the old 
Chester Mills, on Chester Creek, immediately adjoin- 
ing the town of Chester; Chester Mills were built by 
Caleb Pusey in 1683, at the first water power above 
tide on Chester Creek; the mill, framed in England and 
brought over in the Welcome, was owned by Pusey, 
William Penn, and Samuel Carpenter; house, erected 


314 DELAWARE COUNTY 


by Pusey in 1682, is probably the oldest structure in 
Pennsylvania. Crozer Theological Seminary, endowed 
by John P. Crozer, and sons, occupies buildings over- 
looking Chester, erected by John P. Crozer in 1858 for 
a normal school, used in Civil War as hospital, and 
occupied for a time by the Pennsylvania Military 
Academy; Pearl Hall, the seminary library, was built 
by William Bucknell, in memory of his wife; green ser- 
pentine in form of a cross; contains many rare books 
and the only known copies of many Baptist theological 
works; Crozer Hospital and Home for Incurables, 
fine stone buildings, were endowed by J. Lewis Crozer, 
who also left a large endowment for a free library in 
Chester. An old house on Upland Dairy Farm, now 
much distorted by modernization, built by Thomas 
Brazey in 1696, was for many years the home of the 
West family, collateral descendants of Benjamin West. 

On Providence Road, first highway to be laid out in 
Pennsylvania, leading from Chester to the back town- | 
ships, is LAPIDEA MANOR, residence of Governor William 
C. Sproul, colonial house, erected by Thomas Leiper, 
for his son James, enlarged in 1909 by Mr. Sproul, 
architect, W. L. Price; contains notable library with 
collection of Pennsylvania and local books and antiqui- 
ties, paintings, and curios ; Interior wood carvings by 
Maene; on the fine grounds is a clock-tower, containing 
a bell cast in Bristol in 1741, for St. Paul’s Church, 
Chester, and for 125 years was the only church bell in 
the town; across the grounds is to be seen the grade 
of the first railroad in America, built by Thomas Leiper 
in 1809, to carry stone from his quarries at Avondale 
to tidewater on Ridley Creek, where it was loaded in 
barges to be taken to the Delaware breakwater. 


DELAWARE COUNTY 315 


MOYLAN, south of Media, art colony, residence of 
Charles H. Stephens and Mrs. Charles H. Stephens 
(Alice Barber), contains valuable North American 
Indian collection, the old stone building, remodeled for 
art studios and dwellings, is among the most interesting 
in the county. Southwest of MEDIA is the Williamson 
free school of mechanical trades; generously endowed; 
built in 1888; includes twenty-four buildings on 230 
acres; pupils between sixteen and eighteen years of age 
are received; they live as families, twenty-four in a cot- 
tage with a matron; preference to those born in Penn- 
sylvania; benefits of school are entirely free, including 
boarding, instruction, and clothing during the entire 
course of three years. 

MEDIA, county seat from 1851, population 4109; 
charter, with famous provision against sale of intoxi- 
cants, still intact, was granted, 1850: Courthouse with 
ample square, formed nucleus of the town; present 
building, modified colonial, Avondale marble, archi- 
tects, Brazer & Robb. Old Providence Friends Meet- 
ing House, built, 1699; original Taylor log cabin is on 
State Street, and the old Rowland mansion. Christ 
Protestant Episcopal Church, stone, Gothic, has 
altar painting, “Murillo’s Holy Family,” copied by P. 
Mcllhenny. Presbyterian Church, modified classic. 
Leiper Presbyterian Church, Gothic, Avondale marble, 
midway between Leiperville and Swarthmore, built in 
1800, Andrew Jackson, James Buchanan, and Elisha 
Kent Kane, while guests of Judge George G. Leiper, 
worshiped here, slates on the roof were brought from 
Scotland; near is colonial residence of Perry Lukens 
on Fairview Road, hardware and other materials were 


216 DELAWARE COUNTY 


brought from England, has original latch string lock. 
AVONDALE, old colonial residence of Thomas Leiper, 
near Crum Creek, built on plan of his Scotch home. 

WALLINGFORD, residence of late Dr. Horace Howard 
Furness, America’s greatest Shakespearean scholar. 
He left a working library of several thousand Shake- 
speare books, including “The Variorum”’ edited with 
his son. SWARTHMORE, college, founded, 1864, by 
members of the Hicksite Society of Friends, is located 
on a hill with a fine view of the Delaware River, campus 
over 200 acres, includes large tract of woodland and 
rocky valley of Crum Creek; buildings, mostly stone, 
French Renaissance, include the Sproul Astronomical 
Observatory, built in 1911, gift of William C. Sproul, 
contains one of the best telescopes in America; Library, 
English collegiate Gothic, built, 1907, local stone, with 
terra-cotta and Indiana limestone trimmings, architect, 
Edward L. Tilton, New York; the reading room is open 
through two stories, height twenty feet with gallery on 
three sides; Gothic beamed ceiling and leaded ceiling 
lights, interior finished with dark oak. In fireproof 
tower room is the Anson Lapham Friends’ Historical 
Library, one of the largest collections of Quakeriana 
in America, contains original manuscripts of John 
Woolman’s Journal. 

Near the Library stands a house with gambrel roof, 
built in 1724, marked, with tablet, by Delaware 
County Historical Society, “Birthplace of Benjamin 
West, born in 1738, first great American painter, 
founder and second President of the Royal Academy, 
London”; exterior unchanged, now residence of col- 
lege professors; the college owns, and is still collecting 


DELAWARE COUNTY 317 


original paintings and drawings by West. Meeting 
house built, 1881, follows the traditions of early 
colonial style. . Parrish Hall, the main building, 
erected 1864-69, rebuilt after the fire in 1881, contains 
a portrait of George Fox by Sir Peter Lely, and other 
interesting portraits of early Friends and later benefac- 
tors of the college. Wharton Hall, men’s dormitories, 
built in form of Oxford quadrangle, architects, Buntley 
& Sprigley. Stone gateway, north entrance, designed 
by Frederick B. Pyle. 


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LYCOMING COUNTY 


XXII 
LYCOMING COUNTY! 


ORMED April 18, 1795; named for creek called 
%) by Delaware Indians Legani-hanna (Sandy 
Stream) or Lycaumic; mountainous with roll- 

ing hills; North Mountain, highest land, 2550 feet 
above sea level. Formerly a lumber region, now chief 
industries are agriculture and manufacturing. WILL- 
IAMSPORT, county seat, founded, 1796, population 
36,198, has a system of well kept roads; the Grampian 
and Vallamont drives wind over the hills north of the 
city, giving a view, over the West Branch Valley, that 
is remarkable for extent and beauty. Courthouse built 
in 1860, city hall, and post office are mid-Victorian. 
Masonic buildings include the Masonic Temple, Scot- 
tish Rites Building, Acacia Club, and Howard Club. 
Franklin School, Mulberry Street, North of East 
Fourth Street, has mural decorations of local scenery, 
“A Sweep of the Susquehanna Near Jersey Shore,”’ 
artist, J. Wesley Little. 

Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, East Fourth 
and Mulberry Streets, has windows from England, 
also by Tiffany and Lamb. “The James V. Brown 
Public Library,” East Fourth Street, French Ren- 
aissance, Pennsylvania white marble, built in 1907, 
architect, Edgar V. Seeler, Philadelphia; contains a 
small permanent collection of paintings and an original 
portrait of Washington, by Rembrandt Peale, painted 
in 1795; art exhibitions are held here. Central Presby- 

(319) 


320 LYCOMING COUNTY 


terian Church, opposite Park Hotel, has windows by J. 
& R. Lamb. Covenant Presbyterian, West Fourth and 
Center Streets, has large windows by Tiffany and Lamb. 
Trinity Protestant Episcopal, West Fourth Street and 
Trinity Place, modern parish house, used as a com- 
munity center. Opposite is Way’s Garden, two and 
one-half acres, with fine old elm trees. Annunciation, 
Roman Catholic Church, West Fourth and Walnut 
Streets, Tiffany window, “‘The Ascension.” St. John’s 
Protestant Episcopal, architects, Duhring, Okie & 
Ziegler, windows by Nicola d’Ascenzo. 

Brandon Park, beautiful with fine shrubbery, trees, 
and winding paths, has a band shell, playgrounds, 
swimming pool. Monument erected by Daughters 
of the American Revolution, Fourth and Cemetery 
Streets, on site of massacre of white settlers by Indians. 
Site of French Margaret’s Village, niece of Madame 
Montour, noted on Scull’s map, in 1759, is now within 
limits of the seventh ward; she was a notable char- 
acter and enforced prohibition in her town; four miles 
east of Williamsport, on west side, mouth of Loyalsock 
Creek, near Montoursville, is site of Ostonwakin or 
Otsuagy, home of Madame Montour, famous French 
halfbreed, who lived there from 1727, and was still 
there in 1742, when Count Zinzendorf came to the 
village. The great Indian Trail from Muncy led up 
the Susquehanna River, on line of the present highway, 
through Ostonwakin, to East Third Street, Williams- 
port, then north of Third and Penn Streets to Park 
Street, there turned to West Fourth Street and to 
Lycoming Creek, French Margaret’s town. 

Muncy, population 2054, on site of Fort Wallis, in 


LYOdSWVITTIM YVAN MAAUYO DNINOOAT 








LYCOMING COUNTY 321 


1778, commanded by Colonel Thomas Hartley. St. 
James’ Protestant Episcopal Church, built, 1859, Eng- 
lish Gothic, architect, Richard Upjohn, New York, 
who first used principles of Gothic architecture in 
America; has Tiffany memorial window to Rev. Edwin 
Lightener. In Muncy Cemetery is monument to John 
Brady, famous Indian fighter, granite shaft of excellent 
proportions; his grave is in the old Hall’s burial ground 
at Hall’s Station. Site of Fort Brady; south side of 
Muncy, residence of Captain John Brady, fortified by 
stockade, was place of refuge, continuing so after his 
death; burned with Fort Muncy in 1779, when Muncy 
Valley was overrun. Ancther on the frontier was Fort 
Minigar, built, 1774, at White Deer Mills, north bank 
of White Deer Creek, probably stockade, included both 
fort and mills, burned, 1779. Picture Rocks village, 
founded, 1848, here Indian picture writings formerly 
decorated walls of rocks, rising from Big Muncy Creek. 
Studio of the late J. Wesley Little. Fort Antes, oppo- 
site Jersey Shore, EMSS by Daughters of the Ameri- 
can Revolution. 


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(322) 


XXITI 
SOMERSET COUNTY 


ORMED April 17, 1795; named for Somerset, 
em) England. Chief industries are agriculture and 

mining. A mountain country of’ remarkable 
beauty, largely forests, although glades, or natural 
meadows, about the headwaters of streams are num- 
erous and extensive enough to have the name, “The 
Glades,” applied to the whole county; standing on 
the summit of either mountain range that bounds it, 
east and west, one gets a view of unsurpassed beauty; 
at distance of twenty miles the other stands out in 
bold outline, with intervening country of hill, valley, 
forest, glade, and numerous watercourses, which find 
their way to the Ohio, Susquehanna, and Potomac 
rivers; immortalized in James Whitcomb Riley’s 
“’Mongst the Hills of Somerset.”’ 

Nearly all this country, between the crests of the 
Allegheny Mountains and Laurel Hills, is one vast 
coal field, extending over the entire length, from Mary- 
land to Cambria County, every vein of coal from the 
great Pittsburgh seam down being represented. Tradi- 
tions of Indian villages are in the famous Turkey Foot, 
Casselman River forms middle toe at town of Conflu- 
ence; also in Elk Lick township, Indian arrowheads 
and stone implements are found. In 1749, Chris- 
topher Gist, agent of the Ohio Company, was the first 
white man known to have crossed Somerset County; his 
route, along Nemacolin’s trail, a Delaware Indian chief, 

22 (323) 


324 SOMERSET COUNTY 


led him through Addison Township and to the, later 
known, Great Crossing; again passing through in 
1750, he kept a diary. 

George Washington in 1753, crossed through Addi- 
son Township, with four frontiersmen, one as Indian 
interpreter, one French interpreter; every spot of 
earth that Washington trod in the line of duty is 
sacred soil for all true Americans; he passed through 
Somerset eleven times; on Braddock’s ill-fated expedi- 
tion in 1755, he lay for ten days at Great Crossing, on 
a bed of sickness, exempt by order of General Brad- 
dock. First road cut in 1754 was under Washington’s 
direction, afterwards substantially the Braddock Road, 
following Nemacolin’s trail, the chief who guided him; 
it began at Cumberland, Maryland, then a fort, and 
reached the Youghiogheny River, south of present vil- 
lage of Somerfield, at the Great Crossing; marked, 
only historic marker in the county. 

The National Turnpike, commenced in 1811, has the 
same general course, occasionally using the same road- 
bed, crosses the Youghiogheny at Somerfield over a 
great stone bridge, still in good repair, completed July 
4, 1818, and turned over to the United States on that 
day. President James Monroe and members of his 
Cabinet attended the opening of the bridge; this road 
became a great highway, over which passed a vast 
commerce, both east and west, wayside inns were nearly 
every mile, now none exist; the “Endsley,” stone 
house, in Somerfield, built, 1818, long a noted tavern, 
is now a private residence. 

Next great road in the county was the Forbes, or 
Bouquet Road, cut by Colonel Bouquet in 1758, it 





STEPPING STONES, KIMBERLY RIVER 


* 





SOMERSET COUNTY 325 


traversed the county from east to west, and like the 
Braddock Road, was purely military, constructed 
under protection of a strong army; over it passed the 
army of General Forbes on way to conquer Fort 
Duquesne; George Washington was with this expedi- 
tion in command of the first Virginia regiment. The 
road started at Bedford and followed an Indian trail, 
it was improved between 1785-95 and became known 
as “The Great Road’’; afterwards about 1806 as the 
Stoyestown and Bedford Turnpike; later taken by the 
State Highway Department, it is now a great speed- 
way, “The Lincoln Highway,” entering the county at 
BUCKSTOWN, crossing Stoney Creek at KANTNER, one 
mile west is Stoyestown over one hundred years old; 
six miles farther west is JENNERSTOWN, laid out in 1822 
by General James Wells, who, in 1771, was wounded 
by Indians. 

~ On Laurel Hills, three miles west of URSINA, is the 
Jersey Baptist Church, with ancient burial ground, has 
written record since 1775, first log church built, 1788, 
twice rebuilt; fine mountain scenery all along the 
route, and several places of historic interest, here, and 
in other parts of the county, sites of forts which date 
back to French and Indian wars and the Revolution, 
unmarked; few are now living who can point out the 
locality of these historic places with any degree of 
certainty. The Glades Road, laid out in 1772 from four 
miles west of Bedford to the Youghiogheny, via Stoney 
Creek, was made turnpike in 1816; along this road in 
1810, on a farm nine miles east of Somerset, was born 
Judge Jeremiah Sullivan Black, Chief Justice of Penn- 
sylvania; United States Attorney General; and Sec- 


326 SOMERSET COUNTY 


retary of State. First railroad through Somerset 
county was the Pittsburgh division of the picturesque 
Baltimore & Ohio, opened in 1871, with its famous 
tunnels. At Mason & Dixon’s line Negro Mount is 
about 2825 feet above sea. 

SOMERSET, county seat, population 3121; laid out 
in 1795, elevation above sea level 2180 feet, has had 
three consuming fires, and has been rebuilt with 
greater beauty. Courthouse built, 1906, French 
Renaissance, Indiana limestone, architect, J. H. Fuller, 
Uniontown; Soldiers’ Monument in grounds, pedestal 
with names of more than 400 Somerset County men 
who died in war for the Union, 1861-65; Somerset 
Trust Company, Indiana limestone, built, 1916, archi- 
tects, Mowbray & Company, New York, Renaissance, 
beautiful proportions. Churches, built by E. H. 
Walker, Somerset; all with memorial windows, mostly 
made by Pittsburgh firms; are, Grace United Evangel- 
ical, brick, 1914; the Christian Church and parsonage, 
Doric, brick, 1910; St. Paul’s Reformed, Gothic, brick, 
remodeled, 1915; also Trinity Lutheran, Corinthian, 
built, 1877, brick, architect, M. Simon, Harrisburg. 
Throughout the county are many churches; in some 
places where there is not even the semblance of a 
village there are churches that would be a credit to any 
town. 


XXIV 
GREENE COUNTY 


ORMED February 9, 1796; named for General 
Fk Nathanael Greene. Surface, fertile valleys, hills, 
and rolling uplands, making a region of natural 
beauty, well watered from the tributaries of the Mo- 
nongahela River and Wheeling Creek. There are still 
a number of covered wooden bridges throughout the 
county, from fifty to a hundred years old, a very old 
double bridge crosses Ten Mile Creek, one mile east 
of Waynesburg; formerly an old forge and furnace 
were on this creek. Many Indian village sites that were 
occupied long before the advent of the whites are here; 
their age is indicated by large old trees growing on 
their mounds; three distinct forms of ancient burial 
are found here, showing that three waves of population 
swept over this land before the coming of the 
Europeans; the two principal Indian mounds now in 
the county, are at Crows Mills. Two great Indian 
trails crossed the southern part of the state, the War- 
rior Branch passing through this county to the Ohio 
River. A chain of forts crossed Greene Co., ending 
at Fort Zane, now Wheeling; three are especially well 
known—Fort Ryserson and Block House at western 
end of county; Fort Jackson west of Waynesburg; and 
Fort Garard on Whitely Creek; seven miles west of 
GREENSBORO, the birthplace of Robert J. Burdette, 
and his eminent sister Mary G. Burdette. 
(327) 


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GREENE COUNTY 329 


The earliest glass works were established by Albert 
Gallatin, on the Monongahela in 1785; they were the 
forerunner of the vast business at Pittsburgh and 
vicinity. First settlers were Scotch-Irish. Chief 
industries, agriculture and the mining of bituminous 
coal; the Pittsburgh vein of rich depth and highest 
coking value, and three other veins, almost as rich, 
namely, the Waynesburg, Freeport, and Mapletown. 
Oil and gas production is very valuable, there are a 
number of gas-pumping stations within the county. 
The Philadelphia Gas Company has one at Brave, said 
to be the largest in the world; near Brave is JOLLY- 
TOWN, with a monument to Jesse Taylor, first Greene 
County soldier to fall in the Civil War. 

County seat, WAYNESBURG, population 3332; laid 
out in 1796; named for General Anthony Wayne, 
who with his troops proved most successful in ridding 
this section of the Indians. A chain of parks with 
formal gardening goes through the center of the town, 
divided by streets; in the center of one is the Soldiers’ 
Monument; erected in 1899; Waynesburg College, 
empowered by the Legislature to confer honorary 
degrees, faces College Park; portrait of Dr. A. B. 
Miller, a former president, is in Alumni Hall. Court- 
house, colonial, with cupola, surmounted by wooden 
statue of General Greene; was erected in 1852; brick, 
painted gray, has six lofty Corinthian columns support- 
ing the front porch. Jail on same ground. 

First Methodist Church, Romanesque, Cleveland 
stone, has memorial windows. The public schools are 
liberally provided with the Elson photogravures, repro- 
ductions of great masterpieces, mostly in sepia. Five 


330 GREENE COUNTY 


miles southeast of Waynesburg is Gordon Ridge; Net- 
tle Hill sixteen miles southwest, both notable places of 
particularly beautiful scenery. CARMICHAELS, origi- 
nally New Lisbon, one of the oldest towns, beautifully 
located, has Greene Academy, incorporated, 1810; 
Senator Albert Cummins was born near here. 


XXV 


| WAYNE COUNTY 


ORMED March 21, 1798; named for General 
5 Anthony Wayne. A picturesque, mountainous 
section, possessing more lakes than any other 
county in the state, some over 2000 feet above sea, 
ranging in area from 8 to 358 acres, many of them 
well stocked with bass, perch, pickerel, and other fish, 
while the whole county abounds in trout streams. 
From north to south is a wonderful expanse of scenery; 
FARVIEW, altitude, 1500 feet, on the Moosic Mountain, 
near Waymart, includes, in its panorama, the distant 
Catskills; from the southern roads, extended views are 
also enjoyed. A beautiful drive follows the Wallenpau- 
pack Creek (slow water) passing the Falls at Hawley, 
meeting place of the Paupack Indians; good roads 
continue to Milford and the Water Gap, or to Goulds- 
boro, Scranton and Wilkes-Barre. On the road from 
Honesdale to Carbondale the path of the old Delaware 
& Hudson Gravity Railroad may still be traced. 

Early industries were hunting, lumbering, and tan- 
ning; now the modern creamery is an important factor, 
also stock raising and agriculture. One hundred years 
ago a small colony of Germans settled a half mile west 
of Bethany and started a glass factory, utilizing native 
sand and clay; from 1847 to 1861 window glass was 
manufactured at Tracyville; in 1865, Christian Dor- 
flinger built large factories for manufacturing and 
cutting glass, at White Mills, five miles south of 

(331) 


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WAYNE COUNTY 


(332) 


WAYNE COUNTY 833 


Honesdale; glass-cutting factories are now numerous 
in the county, and gold decorating of glass has been 
introduced among Wayne’s industries. 

HONESDALE, made the county seat in 1841; popula- 
tion 2756; altitude, 1000 feet; named for Philip Hone, 
president of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company, 
which started here for tidewater at Rondout on the 
Hudson, built 1826-28, abandoned, 1898; Honesdale 
owes its growth and prosperity to the canal; it was one 
of the anthracite stepping stones to a waiting market. 
Three locomotives were purchased by the canal com- 
pany to draw coal from the mines in Carbondale and 
vicinity to the canal at Honesdale; the first one, the 
Stourbridge Lion, was brought by canal boat to Hones- 
dale in 1829 and a trial trip was made; the wooden 
rails, then used for the railroad, were not firm enough 
for the strain of the engine, and it was never run again; 
however, Wayne County takes precedence in having 
had the first locomotive ever run in America make its 
trial and only trip at Honesdale; it is now at the 
Smithsonian Institute, Washington. The New York 
& Erie Railroad follows the course of the old canal 
through the town. 

Courthouse built, 1880; brick with stone trimmings; 
contains portrait of General Anthony Wayne, copied 
from original in Wayne family, Philadelphia, by Miss 
Jennie Brownscombe, native of Wayne County; two 
large Parrott guns in front are relics of the Civil War. 
It faces Central Park, where stands a Soldiers’ Monu- 
ment, dedicated in 1869 by Govenor John W. Geary; 
pedestal with bronze plates inscribed with names of 
nearly 350 Wayne County men lost in Civil War; also 


334 WAYNE COUNTY 


fountain in center of park, memorial of the National 
Centennial, both placed by the women of Honesdale 
who are said to be the first in the state to organize a 
Village Improvement Society; they, aided by the town 
council, have done much for the beautifying of the 
town; the parks have received special attention; 
besides Central Park are North Park, and on either 
side of the Main Street bridge lie Torrey Park, West, 
and Riverside Park, East, overshadowed by Irving 
Cliff, 800 feet high, named in honor of Washington 
Irving, who, while in Honesdale in 1841 with Philip 
Hone, climbed to the summit of the ledge overlooking 
the town. 

Grace Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic, stone, 
contains white marble font, good design, gift of Philip 
Hone, in 1848. Baptist Church, wood, classic, with 
Ionic columns supporting the porch, built 1843-45. 
Glen Dyberry Cemetery contains grave of Attorney 
General Samuel E. Dimmick, died, 1875, marked by 
granite shaft; his residence, brick, is south of court- 
house. North of Honesdale is stone arched bridge 
over Carley Brook, made in 1909; builder, Samuel 
Brown from England. 

BETHANY, first county seat in 1800, was staked out 
in the primeval forest. Courthouse, built, 1800, is 
now used as a store; new courthouse and brick offices 
were built 1820-23, the office building still standing; 
courthouse was abandoned in 1842, after it was 
remodeled it became the University of Northern 
Pennsylvania, with the public square as campus, 
and was burned in 1857. Between the old ceme- 
tery and the street stands the first Presbyterian 





RIVERSIDE PARK, IRVING CLIFF, HONESDALE 





WAYNE COUNTY 335 


church erected in the county, in 1822. Several old 
dwellings have beautiful colonial doorways. An old 
tavern, built by Henry Drinker, in 1802, still stands. 
PLEASANT MOUNT, altitude, 1600 feet, sixteen miles 
north of Honesdale, residence of General Samuel 
Meredith, officer in the Revolutionary War, and 
United States Treasurer under Washington, commission 
dated September 11, 1789; he lived near, on manor 
lands, from 1803-17, said to have been visited by 
Thomas Jefferson; the house was burned; granite 
monument in his honor was erected by the state, un- 
veiled, 1904, represents a Continental general, from a 
design by Miss Clara Keen; architect, Martin Cau- 
field, both of Honesdale. 

The Delaware River forms the eastern boundary; a 
woodland road follows the river. At MILANVILLE, is 
the old Skinner house, oldest, still in use in Wayne 
County, loopholes near the roof were made for defense 
against Indians; many Indian relics were found 
around here. Wayne County’s only battlefield, 
unmarked, is in Sterling township, called “Little 
Meadows,” near it passed an old Indian trail, from 
Delaware River to Wyoming Valley; on July 4, 1778, 
the day after the Wyoming Massacre, Indians attacked 
a few white people, with loss on both sides. On the 
Eastern and Belmont Highway is a nine-sided, stone 
schoolhouse of early construction. Three others are 
found in the county. 





ADAMS COUNTY 


(836) 


XXVI 
ADAMS COUNTY 


ORMED January 22, 1800. Named for John 
HK Adams, then President of the United States; 

notable for the Battle of Gettysburg; chief 
industry, agriculture. County seat, GETTYSBURG, 
founded in 1786, population 4439. First court held 
in residence of General James Gettys; present court- 
house contains portraits of Justices Marshall and Gib- 
son. Iederal Building, the post office, marble, Corin- 
thian, architect, J. Knox Taylor, Washington, D. C., 
contains interesting battle-field museum, maps, and 
miniature reproductions. The United States Battle 
Field Commission has offices here. The Wills Building, 
at the corner of Center Square and Lincoln Highway, is 
where President Lincoln stayed November, 1863, before 
his famous address. Presbyterian Church, nearly 176 
years old, where President Lincoln worshipped Novem- 
ber 19, 1863; the pew he occupied has a bronze plate; 
church used as hospital during the battle. 

Lutheran Theological Seminary, west of town, on 
Seminary Ridge, contains large copy of Leonardo da 
Vinci’s “Last Supper,” painted by the late James B. 
Sward, Philadelphia; also used as hospital by Union 
soldiers; it is said that General Lee took observations 
from its tower; near, in Reynolds Grove, General John 
F’. Reynolds was killed, place marked by bronze eques- 
trian statue, sculptor, H. K. Bush-Brown. In the 
Dobbin House, stone, on Steinwehr Avenue, built, 1776, 

(337) 


338 ADAMS COUNTY 


was conducted first classical school in Pennsylvania, 
west of the Susquehanna. Southeast corner of Wash- 
ington and High Streets was the first home of Penn- 
sylvania College, established in 1832; now northwest of 
the town on a beautiful campus; main building, “Old 
Dorm,” is fine colonial architecture. Jennie Wade War 
Museum near cemetery, shows bullet marks, home of 
only citizen killed during the battle, has collection of 
relics and curios. Artists of note born here are Charles 
Morris Young and Lytton Buehler. 

The BATTLE FIELD covered 16,000 acres, not includ- 
ing cavalry field four miles east; Union Army was 
commanded by General George G. Meade, 80,000 to 
90,000 men; Confederate Army, commanded by Gen- 
eral Robert E. Lee, about 80,000 to 85,000 men; 
desperate charges were made in hand-to-hand conflicts. 
The cyclorama, “Battle of Gettysburg,” painted by 
Paul Philippoteaux, is on exhibition. The Gettysburg 
Battle Field Memorial Association was incorporated 
by the Legislature of Pennsylvania to hold and pre- 
serve the battle ground, with natural and artificial 
defenses, as at time of battle, and to mark definitely 
lines of battle of all troops. It is now a national park 
and cemetery, in charge of a commission, appointed 
by the Secretary of War, including over 7000 acres 
with fifty miles of macadam roads amid most beauti- 
ful scenery. 

Here we have the greatest number of memorials in 
Pennsylvania, erected by the various states. Among 
the 404 monuments and 894 markers are, The National 
Monument, white granite, four figures at base, repre- 
senting, War, History, Peace, Plenty; shaft supports 





OLD PITTSBURGH AND PHILADELPHIA PIKE 
This pike, in Adams County, was used by both armies during the Civil War 





ADAMS COUNTY 339 


Statue of Liberty; all figures are of Italian marble, 
carved in Italy, sculptor, Randolph Rogers; bronze 
equestrian statue, General George Gordon Meade, near 
center of line of battle, sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown; 
bronze equestrian statue, General John Sedgwick, north 
of Little Round Top, sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown; 
bronze equestrian statue, General Winfield Scott Han- 
cock, east Cemetery Hill, sculptor, F. Ellwell; bronze 
equestrian statue, General Henry W. Slocum, on 
Steven’s Knoll, near Culp’s Hill, sculptor, E. C. Potter; 
bronze statue, General John F. Reynolds, at entrance 
to National Cemetery, sculptor, J. Q. A. Ward; bronze 
statue, General Alexander Stewart Webb, sculptor, J. 
Massey Rhind, placed at the Bloody Angle where 
Pickett’s charge was halted and beaten back; General 
Webb was the officer in command at this spot; bronze 
statue, General Warren, on Little Round Top, sculptor, 
Gerhart. 

Pennsylvania State Monument, double arch, 110 feet 
high, 80 feet square at base, crowned with dome sur- 
mounted by a bronze Victory, eight bronze statues at 
base of Ionic columns, Lincoln, sculptor, J. Otto 
Schweizer; Curtin, sculptor, W. Clarke Nobel; Meade, 
sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie; Hancock, sculptor, Cryus P. 
Dallin; Pleasanton, sculptor, J. Otto Schweizer; Reyn- 
olds, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie; D. McM. Gregg, 
sculptor, J. Otto Schweizer; Birney, sculptor, Lee O. 
Lawrie; bronze tablets around base contain names of 
every soldier of Pennsylvania in Battle at Gettysburg, 
34,580. New York State Monument, tall granite 
shaft, supporting bronze statue of liberty, with four 
bronze battle reliefs in pedestal; bronze trophy, state 

23 


340 ADAMS COUNTY 


shield and corps badges at base of shaft, sculptor, 

Casper Buberl. Vermont State Monument, fluted 
shaft surmounted by statue of Genera] George J. 
Stannard. Irish Brigade Monument, Celtic cross, 
with Irish hound at base, sculptor, Rudolph O’Dono- 
van. 

“In the National Cemetery are buried 3589 Union 
soldiers; it was dedicated N ovember, 1863, when 
President Lincoln delivered his immortal address, end- 
ing, “This nation, under God, shall have a new birth 
of freedom—and that government of the people, by 
the people, and for the people, shall not perish from 
the earth.” Fiftieth anniversary of the battle, fought 
July 1-2-8, 1863, was celebrated here in 1913 by 
reunion of veterans. 

The Russell Tavern, now a residence on old Shippens- 
burg Road, three miles north of Gettysburg, is where 
Washington stopped in 1794, after quelling the Whiskey 
Rebellion. In Cashtown, the Civic League has formed 
a recreation park, using the old tavern for a Library; 
west of this town is the old Pittsburgh and Philadelphia 
Pike, used by both armies during Civil War. Conewago 
Mission at Edgegrove was established in 1741 by two 
Jesuit missionaries; present church, colonial, stone, 
was built in 1787; enlarged, 1851; paintings over the 
altar and in the transepts were made by Francis Stecker; 
Roman Catholic missions were established within a 
radius of twenty miles from this mother house. 


XXVII 
CENTER COUNTY 


ORMED February 18, 1800; named for its posi- 
5 tion in center of state; notable for the State 
College. Chief industry, agriculture; formerly 
mining and manufacture of iron; limestone is exten- 
sively quarried; coal is mined about Philipsburg and 
Snow Shoe. The state owns 21,000 acres of forest 
reserve, through which several of the state highways 
pass; ‘‘Fireline’ cuts made by the state foresters may 
be seen. 

For a wonderful mountain ride, take the State Road 
from Tyrone, Blair County, to Bellefonte, following 
Bald Eagle Valley, and passing several small towns 
named for women, where remains of iron furnaces may 
be seen; near Snow Shoe Intersection, a state highway 
leads up the mountain, with unsurpassed views, to 
Snow Shoe; follow this road to Philipsburg, then to 
Bald Eagle Valley. Another beautiful ride is on the 
state road from Mifflinburg, Union County, across the 
mountain, through Millheim and Spring Mills to the 
Old Fort. From Spring Mills a short trip may be made 
to Penn’s Cave; this is “Penn’s Grandest Cavern”; 
the trip through the cave is 1400 feet in length, made 
in motor boats carring torches or acetylene lights, the 
water is a transparent greenish color, greatest depth 
35 or 40 feet. 

A road from Lewistown, Mifflin County, to Lock 
Haven via Bellefonte, crosses the Seven Mountains 

(341) 


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(342) 


CENTER COUNTY 343 


with wonderful views; at Potter’s Mills is an old fur- 
nace and mill. Near the “Old Fort Tavern” is marker, 
on site of stockade built in 1768 against Indians, placed 
by Bellefonte Chapter of Daughters American Revolu- 
tion. Leaving Penn Valley, the road crosses Nittany 
Mountain, Bald Eagle Mountains may be seen beyond, 
with crest of Alleghenies in the background. 

From Pleasant Gap a detour may be made to STATE 
COLLEGE; population 2405; Pennsylvania State 
College was founded by the United States Govern- 
ment; in 1862 Congress passed the Land Grant Act, 
offering to each state and territory in the Union a gift 
of public lands, the proceeds from the sales to provide 
for the maintenance of a college to promote the liberal 
and practical education of the industrial classes, in the 
several pursuits and professions of life. The offer was 
accepted by the Legislature of this state in 1863, and 
the institution, then known as the Agricultural College 
of Pennsylvania, designated to receive the Land Grant. 
There are thirty-four buildings on a campus of 1500 
acres; “Old Main,” built in 1857 as the Agricultural 
College of Pennsylvania, native limestone, is fine speci- 
men of early architecture; the chemistry and liberal 
arts buildings are Classic style; mining and agricultural 
groups, Italian Renaissance. 

The college maintains departments of study in 
industrial and fine arts, architecture, art history, and 
engineering; architectural exhibitions show many 
specimens of students’ work, some of them prize win- 
ners in the Beaux Arts contests; the ornamental gate- 
way, a gift of the class of 1916, was designed by the 
students. College Museum contains, among the 


344 CENTER COUNTY 


portraits, those of the seven Presidents of the college, 
and Governor Beaver, also other paintings, marbles 
and metal work. Art is being emphasized in the 
summer school. Auditorium presented by Charles 
Schwab, Esq., has in the lobby, heroic statue, “The 
Hewer,” by George Gray Barnard. Opposite on the 
campus is the Carnegie Library; architects, Seymour 
Davis and Paul A. Davis. 

Near State College is a picturesque village, BOALS- 
BURG, laid out with a small formal center square, from 
which streets radiate toward the distant mountains. 
Colonel Theodore Boal, architect, who raised and 
equipped a machine gun company for the World War, 
has created a museum for his warfare collections, curi- 
ous old armor, dating back to the Crusaders, and a 
large amount of World War relics, German airplanes, 
helmets, gas masks, etc.; there is also a Napoleon 
Room; and he has erected a chapel, old Spanish model, 
which houses rare wall hangings, vestments, church 
furnishings, and manuscripts in Spanish, dating from 
the time of Columbus; they were inherited by Mrs. 
Boal, a direct descendant from Columbus. Colonel 
Boal also keeps up, on his property, a reservation or 
captain’s camp, for the Twenty-eighth Division, the 
Tron Division. 

BELLEFONTE, county seat, population 3996, was 
founded, 1795, by James Harris and Colonel James 
Dunlop, who gave the ground for the courthouse and 
academy; and certain lots, to be sold, to provide for 
the erection of said buildings. Name said to have been 
suggested by Talleyrand, who visited James Harris at 
his home “ Marlbrook,”’ now the Bellefonte Poor House; 


auaeneaseasaanacanencannnaen Ra tine Renae 








CENTER COUNTY 345 


being asked by Mrs. Harris to suggest a name for the 
town he said, “Bellefonte, for this beautiful spring’’; 
the spring is computed to flow 14,600 gallons per 
minute, and scarcely varies, entire supply being con- 
veyed to the borough. It is a conservative and aristo- 
cratic old town, with residences of Governors Curtin, 
Beaver, and Hastings, whose homes may still be seen; 
and fine old colonial doorways; the library of Judge 
Ellis L. Orvis is noted for its rare first editions, one of 
the best in Pennsylvania. 

Courthouse is in the Public Square, built, 1805, 
Greco-colonial, with Ionic columns, architect, probably 
Ezra Ale, has been twice enlarged without changing 
the front; entrance to the east addition harmonizes 
with the main west front; architects, Newman & 
Harris, Philadelphia, for enlargement in 1911. Con- 
tains portraits of past judges of the county. In the 
diamond, in front of courthouse, is state memorial 
to Pennsylvania’s War Governor and United States 
Ambassador to Russia, Andrew G. Curtin; bronze, 
heroic, portrait statue on granite pedestal, sculptor, 
W. Clark Noble; on either side are bronze panels 
giving names of Center County’s soldiers in wars of 
the Republic. The Bellefonte Academy, founded in 
1805, burned 1905, was rebuilt, classic, architect, 
Robert Cole of Bellefonte. 


SCALE OF MILES 








BEAVER CouUNTY 


(846) 


XXVIII 
BEAVER COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1800; named for one of our 
most industrious little animals; was in the track 
of earliest of French and English explorers of the 

Mississippi Valley, to which the Ohio River Valley 
forms an integral part. It was the scene of heroic 
labors of Moravian and Jesuit missionaries, who built 
their stations on the borders of the Beaver River. The 
Indian villages were the homes of some of the most 
noted warriors of the aboriginal tribes, and sites of 
important treaty conferences between them and the 
colonial governments of Pennsylvania and Virginia. 
Chief industries are coal and steel. Yards of the Penn- 
sylvania Railroad at Conway, said to be the largest in 
the world; the famous glass factories of Rochester 
and Monaca, are at junction of the Ohio and Beaver 
rivers. Four bridges are here, including that of the 
Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad, a massive struc- 
ture of fine engineering skill, 90 feet above the river. 
BEAVER, county seat (Indian, Shingoes Town), popu- 
lation 4135, was laid out in 1791, on a high level pla- 
teau overlooking the Ohio River, by the Surveyor 
General of the state. Five streets, 100 feet wide, follow- 
ing direction of river, were planned, with five of same 
width crossing at right angles, and each square divided 
again by streets 25 feet in width; eight squares were 
reserved for use of the town, one at each corner, north, 
east, south and west, and four in the center, which, 
(347) 


348 BEAVER COUNTY 


with a wide strip fronting the river, constitute the 
parks; all beautifully laid out, they have large trees, 
and are planted with ornamental shrubbery. The 
present added territory, east and west, makes the 
town twice the original size. Courthouse, brick with 
stone trimmings, is on one of the center squares; the 
jail, a quaint old stone building, faces on opposite 
square; in center stands the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ 
Monument. At foot of Market Street is a tall flag- 
staff marking site of Fort McIntosh, built, 1778, by 
General McIntosh, on earlier site of a French town 
built in 1754. 

BEAVER FALLS, population 12,802, oldest and largest 
manufacturing town, consequent on the great water 
power of Beaver River and Falls, has Geneva College 
and a fine Carnegie Library. The residence section 
is on a bluff 200 feet high, with fine view. NEW 
BRIGHTON, population 9361, connected with Beaver 
Falls by bridges, has the Merrick Art Galleries, 
acquired by gift to the city, with collection of paint- 
ings of merit and value, and liberal endowment for 
purpose of adding to the collection, library, museum, 
and to employ teachers in the future. Armory is head- 
quarters of the famous Tenth Regiment. Near the 
town is a ravine, through which flows Brady’s Run, 
scene of many thrilling events in life of the famous 
Indian fighter, Captain Samuel Brady. Morado has a 
beautiful park on the Beaver River. At Rock Point, 
on the Connoquenessing Creek, is wild and tumultuous 
scenery. 

LEGIONVILLE, General Anthony Wayne wintered his 
soldiers here in 1792; the trenches and position of 


BEAVER COUNTY 349 


some of the redoubts are still discernible; marked 
by flagstaff, erected by the Fort McIntosh Chapter, 
Daughters of the American Revolution. Farther 
east is quaint old town of Economy, home of the Har- 
mony Society, disciples of Doctor Rapp; thrifty, indus- 
trious people of the past, almost effaced by the town of 
Ambridge, of the American Bridge Company, who pur- 
chased a large tract of their land. 

Near Smith’s Ferry, on the north bank of the Ohio, is 
large group of interesting Indian picture carvings, cut 
into the surface of the Piedmont sandstone, exposed 
in the river at a three foot stage of water; they 
are scattered over the surface of the rock ledge, for 
a space about forty feet in width, and 700 feet in 
length, and represent a great variety of the forms of 
men and animals, birds, fish, and reptiles, including 
the beaver, bear, wolf, turtle, snake, and eagle, human 
footprints and the tracks of various beasts; as well as 
inanimate objects, scalphoop, bows, and arrows; there 
is also a picture of a bison chasing a dog; another 
large collection of similar pictures, on the Susquehanna, 
River at Safe Harbor, Lancaster County, contains the 
same forms of the wolf and the turtle, from which well- 
known tribes of the Delaware Indians were named, 
which would seem to connect them with that tribe; 
casts and photographs of these carvings may be seen 
at the Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh. 





(350) 


CRAWFORD CouNTY 


XXIX 
CRAWFORD COUNTY 


ORMED March 20, 1800; named for Colonel 
William Crawford. First well in the world 
drilled for petroleum, was completed here in 
1859; valley of Oil Creek, south of Titusville, once 
most productive of oil in United States. Land pecu- 
liarly suited to grazing, stock raising, and general farm- 
ing. French Creek was followed by Washington, 1753, 
from Franklin, Venango County, to Fort Le Breuf, Erie 
County. He returned, descending it in canoe; on 
French Creek, north of Meadville, are Saegerstown and 
Cambridge Springs, with famous health-giving waters. 
Conneaut Lake, three and one-half miles by one mile, 
is largest lake in Pennsylvania, covering about 1200 
acres. 

MEADVILLE, county seat, population 14,568, settled 
in 1788 by David Mead; his house still stands on Ran- 
dolph Street, with modern outer walls; at roots of a 
maple tree, planted by him, is granite marker, inscrip- 
tion, ‘“‘This house, erected May, 1797, by General 
David Mead, founder of Meadville; Ensign in the War 
of American Revolution; Major-General, 14th and 
15th Division, Pennsylvania Militia; rendered signal 
service in the war of 1812, and an associate Judge at 
the time of his death. Placed by the Colonel Crawford 
Chapter, D. A. R., 1902.” In Diamond Park, center 
of city, five acres, set in huge granite boulder found 
there, is bronze tablet, inscription, “In commemo- 

(351) 


352 CRAWFORD COUNTY 


ration of Colonel William Crawford, born in Virginia 
1732, burned at the stake by Delaware Indians near 
Sandusky, Ohio, June 11, 1782. Revolutionary sol- 
dier, friend and companion of Washington, brave and 
distinguished frontiersman of Western Pennsylvania; 
this county is named in his honor. Erected by Colonel 
Crawford Chapter, D. A. R., 1912”: also Pioneer’s 
Monument, erected May 12, 1888, to mark one hun- 
dredth anniversary of Meadville; and the Soldiers’ 
Monument, erected, 1890. Parrott guns, relics of the 
Civil War, are at the base; inscription, “Crawford 
County’s tribute to her loyal sons, 1861-1865.” 

Courthouse faces the park, Renaissance, architect, E. 
T. Roberts, built in 1870. On a house west of the park 
is a tablet, inscription, “Site of first Court House and 
Gaol, north of Pittsburgh, 1804-25; placed by Colonel 
Crawford Chapter, D. A. R., 1909”: also facing the 
park are the post office, built by the government, 1910, 
Georgian architecture, red brick and white marble; 
and the Unitarian Church, built in 1835, red brick, 
classic, Doric architecture. On the terrace, at Locust 
Street, is a small stone tablet, marking an old Indian 
trail, along which Washington passed to Fort Le Boeuf; 
The “Terrace,” an attractive residence street, is the 
sloping ground following the old canal. 

Meadville Free Library contains a complete file of 
the “Crawford Weekly Messenger,” published by 
Thomas Atkinson at Meadville, first newspaper north- 
west of the Allegheny Mountains; annual exhibitions 
of paintings by American artists are held here; an 
excellent permanent collection is being accumulated 
by the art association, among the artists represented 


CRAWFORD COUNTY 353 


are Charles C. Curran, Charles Bittinger, and Char- 
lotte B. Coman. 

Allegheny College founded in 1815, co-ed, is well 

equipped as to instructors, apparatus, and buildings, 
campus twenty acres, nearly one million dollars endow- 
ment; Bentley Hall, the oldest building, erected in 1820, 
is of fine colonial architecture; Library, classic architec- 
ture, contains autograph letters from Thomas Jeffer- 
son, James Madison, James Monroe, John Wesley, 
Commissions to Timothy Alden, first President, de- 
scended from Longfellow’s John Alden; portraits of 
all the Presidents of the college, President Clark by 
Inman, also Hon. James Winthrop, and of Rev. William 
Bentley of Salem, Massachusetts, who bequeathed here 
his library, one of the rarest in the country. 
‘ The Pennsylvania College of Music, chartered, 1887, 
is complete in its faculty and curriculum, for study in 
every department of music and allied arts. Meadville 
Theological School, chartered 1846, contains a fine 
library; in the chapel is a portrait, by John Neagle, 
Philadelphia, painted in 1848, of Harm Jan Huidekoper, 
founder of the school; he was the first representative of 
the Holland Land Company in Meadville in 1802. 
Lafayette Hotel is on site of “The Gibson Tavern,” 
where Lafayette dined in 1825. A house on Water 
Street, corner of Steers Alley, is site of blockhouse 
built, 1794; and North Ward School is on site of the 
State Arsenal, 1816-58; all three marked with tablets 
by Colonel Crawford Chapter, Daughters American 
Revolution. 

TITUSVILLE, chartered as a city in 1866; population 
8432; named for Jonathan Titus, first settler in 1796. 


354 CRAWFORD COUNTY 


Here in 1859, Colonel Edwin L. Drake, by drilling, 
gave to the world rock oil; first oil well half mile south- 
east of center of town, is marked by a boulder monu- 
ment, with large tablet, showing replica of photograph 
of oil derrick and surrounding trees, taken when oil 
was discovered; inscription, “This native boulder 
marks the spot where, through the foresight, energy 
and perseverance of Edwin L. Drake, the first well was 
drilled for oil, August 27, 1859; oil was found at a 
depth of sixty-nine feet; this great discovery inaugu- 
rated the Petroleum Industry. Erected by the Cana- 
dohta Chapter, D. A. R., Aug. 27, 1914”; Drake 
Monument, entrance to Woodlawn Cemetery, emblem- 
atic figure of a driller, bronze, heroic size, curving 
architectural background, granite; sculptor, Charles 
Niehaus; tomb of Drake faces the monument; Drake 
Museum, west of Titusville, brick, architect, Edwin 
Bell, contains collections of interest relating to 
early history of the oil industry. 

Benson Memorial Library, Franklin Street, near 
Main Street, colonial, brick and Indiana sandstone, 
built, 1902, architects, Jackson & Rosencrans, New 
York. St. James Protestant Episcopal Church, built, 
1863, Gothic, native stone, has fine Tiffany window. 
Presbyterian Church, built, 1887, Romanesque, Medina 
sandstone, is on site of log church built in 1815; stained 
glass window by the Montague Pastle-London Co. of 
New York. Presbyterian Chapel, 1907, Romanesque, 
stained glass window by Lamb, New York. The Com- 
mercial Bank has a portrait of John L. McKinney, 
former president, by John C. Johanson. 





DRAKE MONUMENT WITH STATUE OF THE DRILLER, TITUSVILLE 
Charles H, Niehaus, Sculptor 





~ lk + 


XXX 
ERIE COUNTY 
PH tte nn March 12, 1800; named for Lake Erie, 


the name Erie from a tribe of Indians, Eries, 
conquered by the Iroquois Confederacy in 1653, 
their identity and language is lost; curious mounds and 
circular embankments, still found in several places, 
show traces of a race superior to the Indians; human 
bones in large quantities have been unearthed on line 
of the Pennsylvania and Erie Railroad, indicating huge 
physical development, one was nine feet in height. The 
triangle north of Pennsylvania and west of New York 
was purchased, by authority of Governor Mifflin, in 
1791, from the United States, to obtain a lake port for 
the state; conveyance being signed by President Wash- 
ington and Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State; after- 
wards the Indian title was purchased from the Six 
Nations, through the diplomacy of Cornplanter (Gy- 
antwachia), the Seneca chief, for which the state gave 
him a reservation in Warren County; later the Indians 
resolved to prevent the settlement of Presque Isle by 
Americans, but General Wayne gained a decisive and 
final victory against them in the battle of ‘Fallen 
Timbers’”’ on Maumee Road in 1794. 
The Shore belt, for ten miles in width, is noted for 
- grape and fruit raising; back of this is a productive 
agricultural section. Iron and steel industries pre- 
dominate. Principal roads are along the south shore 
of Lake Erie, called the East and West Lake Roads, 


o (355) 





ERIE COUNTY 357 


thatform a fifty-mile section of the international touring 
route across the continent. The old French Road from 
Erie southeast to Waterford, 18 miles, was originally 
part of the stage route between Pittsburgh and Erie, 
and also the old portage route from Lake Erie, for 
military and commercial purposes, to the head waters 
of the Allegheny River navigation, at Fort Le Boeuf, 
Waterford, on Lake Le Boeuf. 

In 1758, Major George Washington, twenty-one 
years old, first caught the attention of mankind; 
he came with a message from Governor Dinwiddie of 
Virginia, to notify the French to discontinue fortifying 
Presque Isle and Le Boeuf, claiming them to be British 
territory. Captain Riparti came from Presque Isle for 
the conference. Washington was accompanied by 
Christopher Gist (White) and an Indian interpreter. 
They were in Fort Le Boeuf from December 11-16, and 
treated courteously by the French officers, who stated 
they would communicate with their superior officer, 
Marquis Du Quesne, but at present must refuse to 
comply. 

ERIE, county seat, population 93,372, on site of 
Presque Isle Fort, built by the Marquis Du Quesne in 
1753; one of the chain of thirteen French forts extend- 
ing from Quebec to Fort Du Quesne; is 35 feet above 
the lake, 573 feet above sea level. Surveyed by Andrew 
Ellicott, in 1795, first Surveyor General of the United 
States, three public parks of five acres each were in 
the original plan, along Sixth street, one mile apart. 
Perry Square, Sixth and State Streets, on original plan, 
is focus of public life, it contains memorial monuments 
to Captain Charles Y, Gridley, bronze statue, erected 


358 ERIE COUNTY 


in 1913, commander of the flagship of Admiral Dewey’s 
Squadron, in Manila Bay; Eben Brewer, bronze 
statue, first American postmaster in Cuba; General 
Anthony Wayne, large granite boulder surmounted by 
two cannon, erected, 1902; and bronze statue to Civil 
War soldiers, erected, 1872. 

Courthouse, facing Perry Square, classic, Corinthian 
columns, native stone, erected in 1852, the bell is a 
trophy of war, from the British battleship Queen Char- 
lotte, in 1813; court room contains complete represen- 
tation of portraits of Erie County judges. Public 
Library, South Perry Square, Italian Renaissance, 
granite, built in 1897, architects, Alden & Harlow, 
Pittsburgh, contains portraits of Commodore Perry, 
General Anthony Wayne, Captain Charles V. Gridley, 
President Lincoln; in the Art Gallery is a small perma- 
nent collection of works by American artists, among 
those represented are Childe Hassam, R. M. Shurtleff, 
F. 8. Church, George R. Barse, Arthur Parton, H. 
Bolton Jones, Charles A. Hulbert, and Henry Mosler; 
annual art exhibitions are held here by the Erie Art 
Club. 

The Library also has a museum, with relics of 
the French and Indian, the Revolutionary War, 
the War of 1812, and later wars. Erie has a con- 
servatory of music, with an organized symphony 
orchestra, and glee club. The old Custom House, 
State Street, north of Perry Square, built in 1837. 
classic, brick with white marble steps and Doric 
columns, was first used as a United States bank, now 
in possession of the Grand Army of the Republic. 
Erie has fifty-five churches, eighteen missions, and 





WASHINGTON STATUE 
Site of Fort De Boeuf, Waterford 
Mr. and Mrs. E. C. Kilpatrick, Sculptors 





ERIE COUNTY 359 


other religious societies, also two cathedrals. St. 
Paul’s, Protestant Episcopal, West Sixth Street, Gothic, 
stone, built, 1866, architect, St. John of Detroit, rose 
window by Tiffany, who also made some of the memo- 
rial windows; St. Peter’s Roman Catholic, Tenth and 
Sassafras Streets, Gothic; Medina New York red sand- 
stone, trimmed with white sandstone from Amherst, 
Ohio, and Mercer County, Pennsylvania, built in 1893, 
architect, C. C. Keely, New York; contains statues of 
St. Peter and St. Paul, Carrara marble, made in Italy; 
stations and stained glass windows from Munich, Ger- 
many; other windows made in this country. Memo- 
rial windows are also in the First Presbyterian Church; 
St. Mary’s and St. John Kanty (Polish). 

The State Soldiers and Sailors’ Home and Marine 
Hospital, built, 1867-68, brick and stone, is located on 
the lake front; on the grounds is a replica of the original 
blockhouse fort, where General Anthony Wayne died 
in 1796, after his conquest of the Northwest in 1795; he 
was buried here, until his body was removed in 1809 
to St. David’s burial ground, Radnor. The blockhouse, 
showing plan of construction, was built in 1880, as 
memorial to General Wayne, it contains relics, and 
part of coffin lid with his inscription; these grounds 
were the reservation, on old City Plan of 1795, set 
apart for fortifications, in the most commanding posi- 
tion, for protection to entrance of harbor. Most of the 
military history of Erie is interwoven with the loca- 
tion between Parade and Wayne Streets, north of Fifth 
Street; here was the first white settlement, Presque 
Isle Village, and French fort in 1753. On bluff near 
Parade Street, blockhouses were erected, 1753-96-1813. 


360 ERIE COUNTY 


Parade Street formed part of the old French road to 
Fort Le Boeuf, French garrison, 1753-59; English 
1760-68, and in 1785 American 1795-1806, also 
1812-13. Here in 1763 took place the hard fought 
two days’ battle of Presque Isle, with Pontiac, chief of 
the Ottawas, who, with a vast force, simultaneously 
attacked all thirteen forts, and captured nine of 
them, including Presque Isle and Le Boeuf, and 
again this was the objective point of the Indians in 
1794, when they were finally conquered by General 
Wayne. 

Here Thomas Rees, first justice of peace, entertained 
in his tent at the mouth of Mill Creek, a French exile, 
the Duke de Chartres, subsequently Louis Philippe, 
king of France. At the foot of Peach and of Cascade 
Streets, granite blocks, with brass markers, note 
approximate positions where Commodore Oliver Hazard 
Perry’s ships were built, on which he won the victory 
of the “Battle of Lake Erie,” in 1818. The powder 
used to fight that battle was made at Du Pont’s, 
Wilmington, Delaware, and brought through Pennsyl- 
vania in Conestoga wagons. The second flagship of his 
fleet, the Niagara, is in Erie Harbor, having been raised 
from the sand of Misery Bay, where it lay for nearly a 
century; it was rebuilt by the state at a cost of $7 5,000 
for the Perry Centennial in 1913; the first flagship, 
Lawrence, was raised and rebuilt for the Centennial 
Exposition in Philadelphia, in 1876; also in Erie harbor 
is the United States warship Michigan, now named 
Wolverine and used as a naval militia training ship; 
built in 1844, it was the first iron warship, and brought 
to Erie in sections from Pittsburgh; the original engine 


ERIE COUNTY 361 


is still intact and seaworthy; now oldest ironclad vessel 
in the world. 

At foot of French Street, Commodore Perry’s fleet 
landed with the captured British squadron. This 
place was camping ground of the Pennsylvania 
militia; in War of 1812-18, the British fleet was 
drawn up in front of the harbor, to destroy Perry’s 
vessels while under construction; Captain Daniel 
Dobbins of Erie, commander of the Ohio, was the guid- 
ing spirit in building the fleet; 2500 soldiers encamped 
here, with cannon mounted, and such military pre- 
paredness as to forebode disaster to an enemy attempt- 
ing entrance to the harbor. General Lafayette visited 
Erie in 1825, and a banquet was given him. 

The Presque Isle peninsula, surrounding Erie harbor, 
has a state park, of more than 1500 acres, which is free 
to all; it gives Erie a large and thoroughly protected har- 
bor; 100 acres were reserved for United States forti- 
fications and dockyards; a life-saving station here, 
established in 1876, is place of interest. Presque Isle 
Bay is the finest natural harbor on the Great Lakes, 
four and one-half miles long, one and one-half miles 
wide. Lakeside Park, an irregular and sloping strip 
of land along the water front, from Mill Creek on 
east, to City line west, sixty-five acres, was laid out in 
1888 by John L. Cully, landscape engineer; other open 
spaces are the Waterworks Park; the Reservoir; 
Erie, Trinty and Lakeside Cemeteries. Present city 
planner is John Nolan, of Massachusetts. Erie has 
also twenty smaller parks, of these the largest are Glen- 
wood, between Sassafras and Cherry Streets, purchased 
by Erie Public Park Association in 1903, 114 acres, a 


362 ERIE COUNTY 


natural forest with large stream of clear water and 
swimming pool; the Fish Hatchery, Twenty-third and 
Sassafras Streets, one of the most important in the 
state; Waldamere, four miles west on Lake Erie, and 
the State Normal School Grounds at Edinboro, sixteen 
miles south of Erie. 


XXXI 
VENANGO COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1800, territory then recently 
} acquired by treaties from the Indians, named 
from In-nan-ga-eh (a rude figure cut in a tree), 
Seneca language. A well-watered country, the Alle- 
gheny River meandering through rugged hills, about 400 
feet high, presents places of rare scenic grandeur; into it 
flow several streams of considerable volume, among 
them Oil Creek, French Creek, and Big Sandy. For a 
number of years after the discovery of petroleum, in 
1859, it continued to be the principal oil-producing 
field; now chief industries are manufacturing, refining 
of petroleum, lumbering, and agriculture. 

FRANKLIN, county seat, population 9970, named 
for Benjamin Franklin, was laid out by William Irvine 
and Andrew Ellicott, state commissioners, in 1795, on 
a plateau where a few Seneca Indians were living in 
comparative security, with a lookout on the highest 
point of the highest hill, giving views up and down the 
two beautiful rivers. Being a conservative town, the 
original city plan has been closely followed, descend- 
ants of the early white settlers are living on their own 
lands from original surveys. Courthouse, Renaissance, 
brick, in center of a fine wide park, contains portrait of 
John Morrison, first town crier; near by is Soldiers’ 
Monument, marble shaft surmounted by an eagle; on 
the pedestal are carved names of Venango County 
soldiers killed in the Civil War; opposite is the Frank- 
lin News office, Renaissance, good modern construction. 

(363) 


SCALE OF MILES 








VENANGO COUNTY 


(364) 


VENANGO COUNTY 365 


St. John’s Protestant Episcopal Church has fine Tiffany 
windows; the Presbyterian, Baptist, and Roman 
Catholic churches all have good architecture and 
stained glass windows. Fine Armory Building. Origi- 
nal lock and dam are preserved intact, in an early canal 
extended to Franklin, from the “ Feeder’’ Canal several 
miles below Meadville, on French Creek, its course is 
plainly seen at many places along the creek; five old 
bridges that were swept away by fire and ice have been 
replaced by modern structures; one is called the 
“Washington,” concrete, handsome design. 

Three early frontier forts were here, sites marked by 
monuments and tablets, Fort Machault, French, Elk 
Street near Sixth Street, 1753-59; Washington came 
here on way to Fort Le Boeuf, 1753; this fort had a 
share in the maneuvers that precipitated ‘‘the great 
seven years war’ and dissipated the dreams of an 
extended French empire; the expedition which brought 
on actual hostilities was organized and received its 
impetus at Fort Machault. French troops passed 
through, and often a thousand Indians lingered here. 
Fort Venango, Elk Street at Eighth Street, English, 
1760-63, captured and burned by the Indians during 
Pontiac’s war; and Fort Franklin, on Franklin Avenue 
west of Thirteenth Street, built by United States 1787-— 
96, later abandoned; also the Old Garrison, on bank of 
French Creek near junction with Allegheny River, 
erected by the United States after Fort Franklin. This 
city has never failed in a military crisis; during the 
war of 1848, George C. McClellan led the “forlorn 
hope’ which captured the fortified buildings at Che- 
pultepec, making the taking of the palace possible. 

Six miles down the river is “Indian God Rock,” on 


366 VENANGO COUNTY 


which are still seen Indian picture writings; near this 
rock, Celeron, a Frenchman, under orders from the 
governor of Canada, is said to have buried one of the 
engraved leaden plates, placed at various points from 
Lake Erie to the Mississippi River, as marks of renewal 
of French possession. Opposite is a bald mountain, 
from which are fine views of river scenery; among the 
hills are numerous caves and ravines, a lovely ravine 
is Glen Fern south of Franklin; Monarch Park, half- 
way to Oil City, is a well-equipped pleasure ground. 
OIL CiTy, on Oil Creek, population 21,274, so named 
because it was the center of the oil industry after dis- 
covery of petroleum in 1859. In early days, “Seneca 
Oil’? was obtained from the Indians, who gathered it 
by spreading their blankets in Oil Creek, the surface 
of which was covered with oil. 

Hasson Park, with forty acres of natural wooded 
area, has rustic, stone, arch gateway at Bissell Avenue 
entrance. In Christ Protestant Episcopal Church are 
memorial windows by Lamb, New York. United States 
Post Office at the corner of Seneca and Clifford Streets, 
built by the Government in 1906, Romanesque, gray 
brick and stone. Carnegie Library, built, 1904, mod- 
ified Romanesque, gray brick and stone; architect, 
Charles D. Bollon, Philadelphia. Five bridges over 
the Allegheny River include the original suspension 
bridge and “The Petroleum,” said to be finest in 
strength and dimension north of Pittsburgh; in 1892 
a large petroleum tank caught fire and burning oil 
spread over the water in the creek it also set fire to the 
buildings, and many lives were lost. From Franklin 
and Oil City, public highways, now under state control, 
lead along streams and over uplands of great beauty. 





IRON FURNACE—OIL CITY AND VICINITY 


When the iron and steel industry started, iron furnaces such as the above were built near deposits of bog ore, 
and the product shipped by the river to Pittsburgh long before railroads arrived 
or cities appeared 





XXXII 
WARREN COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1800; named for General 
2 Joseph Warren, who fell at the Battle of Bunker 
Hill in 1775; land is varied, with mountains, 
plains, and narrow valleys; the Allegheny River flows 
through, with tributaries large enough for floating rafts 
or propelling machinery. The beautiful Kinzua Hills, 
east, are nearly 2200 feet above tidewater, over them 
is the famous Kinzua Viaduct, said to be the highest 
in the world. Early industries were lumber and oil, 
now they are chiefly agriculture and manufacturing. 
WARREN, made county seat in 1819, was first laid out 
by General William Irving and Andrew Elliott, state 
commissioners in 1795; population 14,272; in 1800, 
first sawmill in the county was started which is said to 
have made the first raft of lumber ever floated down the 
Allegheny; it also sawed lumber in 1805 for Jackson’s 
Tavern, in which George W. Fenton, afterwards gov- 
ernor of New York, in 1806, taught school, until the 
schoolhouse of round logs with openings covered by 
oiled paper for windows, was ready. Courthouse, built, 
1825, was first brick building in the county. A sus- 
pension bridge crosses the Allegheny here, built about 
1871; near entrance to bridge is the Soldiers’ Monu- 
ment, granite, erected in 1909, on which are inscribed 
the battles of Warren County men in Civil War. 
Bronze monument to General Warren and his soldiers 
is in the west park, dedicated, 1910, placed by the 
(867) 


} 
SHEFFIEL \ 


= SY 


; CRAWFORD CO. 





(368) 


WARREN COUNTY 


WARREN COUNTY 369 


Joseph Warren Chapter, Daughters of the American 
Revolution. Memorial Library, classic, Doric; architect, 
Wetmore, New York, is on site of residence of Francis 
Henry, Esq. 

TIDIOUTE, population 1065, in midst of most pic- 
turesque surroundings, hills 500 to 700 feet high, 
covered thickly with forests, where the Allegheny 
River makes a beautiful curve, crossed here by a 
suspension bridge built between 1860-70, was famous 
as an oil-producing community, and the center of a 
large and excited population, now a quiet residence of 
wealth and refinement. Also on banks of the Alle- 
gheny is the Cornplanter Reservation, given to the 
great Seneca chief and his heirs for ever, asa reward for 
military service and influence during the War of 1812; 
in 1866, the State Legislature authorized the erection 
of a monument here, inscription, “Gyantwahia, The 
Cornplanter, Died at Cornplanter Town, Feb. 18, 1836, 
aged about 100 years.” 





SCALE OF MILE 
| 10 





XXXII 
BUTLER COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1800; named in honor of 
}% General Richard Butler, born in York County; 
natural scenery is varied, with hills, knolls, and 
ridges, intervening valleys and broad, fertile fields, 
while many streams dash over rocky bottoms in all 
directions and flash their clear waters in the sunlight. 
The county is rich in old traditions. In 1753, Wash- 
ington passed through over the Indian trail extending 
from site of Pittsburgh to Franklin, Venango County; 
Lafayette stopped here overnight, and many stories 
of hairbreadth escapes from Indians are related, among 
them that of Massy Harbison and her baby, who after 
seeing two of her children killed and scalped, almost 
starved for days, but finally escaped; the descendants 
of that baby still reside in the county. Robert Morris 
owned about 100,000 acres of land in this region. 
Chief industries, notably its large output of oil and 
gas, also manufactories; the Standard Steel Car 
Works, one of the largest plants in the United States, 
and the Standard Plate Glass Works. 

BUTLER, county seat, population 23,778; laid out 
in 1803; rectangular, sheltered on all sides by hills; 
on the top of a small knoll is the public square, with 
fountain, walks, grass plots, and flower beds; it con- 
tains the Soldiers’ Monument, dedicated in 1894 to 
“Our Silent Defenders”; facing the park is the Court- 
house, Gothic French style, with a high tower, stone, 

25 (371) 


372 BUTLER COUNTY 


built in 1885; architect, James P. Bailey, Pittsburgh; 
remodeled in 1908 by J. C. Fulton, of Uniontown; 
interior has mural paintings, representing historic 
scenes in Butler County; the Woman’s Club furnished 
a rest room for women here in the basement. Two 
interurban street railway lines from Pittsburgh have 
their terminus near this point. Within two squares is 
the Post Office, built, 1914, Grecian; light brick with 
granite Ionic columns; architect, Oscar Wenderoth. 
Opposite is St. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church, Eng- 
lish-Gothic, with stone tower 180 feet high; constructed 
of beautifully colored local sandstone in the rough, 
trimmed with the same stone dressed smooth; roof, 
variegated shingle tile; architect, John T. Comes, Pitts- 
burgh; interior has mural decorations by the Christian 
Art Guild; the altars are known as “Tryptich,” said 
to be the only ones of their kind in America; the sanc- 
tuary is considered among the richest and most com- 
plete in this country; stained glass windows from 
George Boos, Munich, Bavaria. St. Peter’s German 
Catholic Church has stained glass windows from 
Munich, made by Meyer & Company, who also made 
windows for St. Peter’s Protestant Episcopal Church. 

The county has numerous fine, concrete bridges; 
Butler Viaduct is the largest, 1060 feet between the 
approaches connecting East Wayne Street with Center 
Avenue across a deep ravine, built in 1915 by the Fort 
Pitt Bridge Works. Two miles northeast of town is a 
pleasure park of natural beauty in a wooded valley, 
well equipped with dining rooms, ball grounds, lake for 
boating, etc. Five miles from Butler on the heights 
above Herman Station is St. Mary’s MONASTERY, 


BUTLER COUNTY 378 


Gothic, built by the Capuchin Fathers, of which St. 
Fiedelis College forms a part. SAXONBURG was laid 
out in 1832 by John Roebling, here he lived and manu- 
factured the first wire cable, which he used in con- 
structing suspension bridges that made him famous, 
notably the Brooklyn Bridge across Hast River, New 
York. At EvANS CIty, on a grassy knoll in the ceme- 
tery, is the Soldiers’ Monument; Quincy granite shaft, 
surmounted by an eagle standing on a globe, the names 
of forty-five soldiers are inscribed on it; dedicated, 
1894. 

On the same road is HARMONY, an old historic set- 
tlement, founded by George Rapp of Germany; who 
organized a society known as Harmonites, they pur- 
chased 5000 acres of best farm land along the Conno- 
quenessing Creek, amid beautiful scenery, and formed 
a communistic colony; all money and goods went into 
a common fund; all worked together in harmony and 
concord; the quaint old cemetery is surrounded by a 
wall four feet thick; at the entrance is a gate consist- 
ing of one large stone which turns on a pivot; more 
than one hundred of the sect are buried here; high up 
on the bank, above the creek, is a curious stone forma- 
tion called “Rapp’s Seat,’’ here, tradition relates, 
“Father Rapp” used to sit and oversee the work car- 
ried on by the community; the tourist is well repaid 
for the climb by the beautiful view from that high 
point. Another historic place is known as the “Old 
Stone House” on Mercer Turnpike, ten miles north of 
Butler, used as a tavern in the eighteenth century; 
here in 1843, an Indian named “ Mohawk’’ killed Mrs. 
Wigton and her four children. 


374 BUTLER COUNTY 


A State Normal School with fine large buildings and 
wide, shady campus is at SLIPPERY Rock. About 
1792, numerous depredations by Indians were quieted 
for some time by General Brodhead’s expedition to 
the head waters of the Allegheny River with Captain 
Samuel Brady’s help, a notable Indian fighter; his 
leap of 23 feet over the waters at Slippery Rock, 20 
feet deep, with Indians back and front, gained the 
praise of the Indian chief, who said, “Blady make 
good jump.” At West SuNBURY an agricultural 
school has lately been established. - 





VINEYARD HILL : 
Harmony Rapp’s seat is back of the tree. The path leads to it. 





XXXIV 
MERCER COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1800; named for General 
}% Hugh Mercer of the Revolutionary War,who was 
killed in the Battle of Princeton; rolling land, 
well watered with springs and creeks; coal underlying 
one-fourth of land in the county; chief industries are 
iron, steel, and agriculture; early settlers were Scotch- 
Irish. In 1812, Mercer County people were frequently 
called upon to aid in defense of Erie; the whole county 
would be aroused in a day by runners; in a few hours 
most of the men, whether militia or volunteers, would 
be onthe march; one call came on Sunday, while 
service was being held in the courthouse; the sermon 
was suspended, news announced, benediction given, 
and immediate preparation for march commenced; at 
another time, news of threatened invasion came in 
the middle of grain harvest; the response was imme- 
diate, only one old man was left in the town. 

MERCER, county seat, population 1932; was once 
an Indian village of seventy lodges; no settlement was 
made here until after Wayne’s victory over the Indians 
in 1795; it was laid out in 1803, on two hundred acres 
of land given by John Hoge of Washington County. 
The courthouse, built, 1909, colonial; brick, stone, and 
concrete; is in center of the public square of three 
acres; interior finished in white marble; mural paint- 
ing in dome by Edward Everett Simmons, represents 
Power, Innocence, Guilt, and Justice; in the court 

(875) 





SCALE OF MILES 
ice) 20 





(876) 





MURAL PAINTING IN THE DOME OF MERCER COUNTY 
COURT HOUSE 


Painted by Edward Everett Simmons 





MERCER COUNTY 377 


rooms on second floor are symbolic mural paintings, 
“Criminal Law,’’ by Vincent Aderente, and “Civil 
Law,” by Arthur Foringer, made in 1911; panels 11 by 
12 feet; in the judges’ chambers is a portrait of Honor- 
able Henry Baldwin, former member of the Mercer 
County bar, and Justice of the Supreme Court of the 
United States, 1880-44. On courthouse grounds is the 
monument, granite and bronze, to soldiers of Mercer 
County in the war of 1861-65. 

The Humes Hotel, at the northeast corner of the 
Public Square, built, 1817, then known as “The Hack- 
ney House,” oldest hostelry in the county, had as 
guests Marquis de Lafayette in 1824; his room, No. 12, 
is open to guests; President Taylor and Buchanan, 
and General John B. Gordon of Georgia also visited 
here. Thecelebrated Harthegig healing springs, named 
after an Indian chief, is near Mercer; Indians claimed 
it healed them of many diseases. HOPE MILLS was 
the birthplace and the early home of George Junkin, 
D.D., who was father-in-law of General Stonewall 
Jackson; his father was a captain in the War of 1812. 
GROVE CITY is a picturesque college town, being the 
home of Grove City College, founded by Dr. Isaac C. 
Kettler. Buhl farm, near SHARON, is a recreation. park 
for citizens of Shenango Valley and has club house, 
swimming pool, golf, tennis, and baseball grounds. 


SCALE OF MILES 


Co 


< 
rat 
<< 
Q 
z 





ARMSTRONG COUNTY | 
(378) 


XXXV 
ARMSTRONG COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1800, and named for Gen- 
}%) eral John Armstrong, who commanded the 

expedition against the Indians at Kittanning in 
1756, and destroyed their town; a hilly and well- 
watered region with fine farming lands on bottoms 
and hills. Bituminous coal and limestone are found 
in all parts of the county; cannel coal of excellent 
quality, oil, gas, and iron ore; the plate-glass industry 
at Ford City is said to be the largest in the world. 
Historic places are, site of Fort Jacob; Battle of 
Blanket Hill; and point where Washington and Gist 
crossed the river, not marked. 

KITTANNING, county seat, settled in 1804; popula- 
tion 7153; on site of an Indian village of same name; 
later it was one of the French and Indian forts, ex- 
tending via Venango and Fort Le Boeuf to Erie. An 
Indian trail left Horse Shoe Bend at Kittanning Point, 
Blair County, and came through Cambria County to 
Cherry Tree, Canoe Point, Indiana County, crossing 
from there to Kittanning. The courthouse, jail, and 
sheriff’s house are built together, of fine cut stone from 
Catfish Quarry, Clarion County, cupola, 108 feet from 
the ground, foundations, 7 feet wide, sunk in solid 
rock 24 feet below the surface; architect, James Mc- 
Cullough, Jr., Kittanning, built, 1870-73. 

At MAHONING, in 1780, was a fierce encounter with 
the Indians by General Brodhead, commander of Fort 

(379) 


380 ARMSTRONG COUNTY 


Pitt, and ° Captain Samuel Brady, and another 
encounter at Brady’s Bend. Captain Brady fought 
in the Revolution, at siege of Boston, in the massacre 
at Paoli, and in 1779 was ordered to Fort Pitt. Forp 
CITY, population 5605, has statue of Colonel J. B. 
Ford, father of plate-glass industry. Several fine 
churches are here, 


XXXVI 
INDIANA COUNTY 


ORMED March 30, 1803. Named for Indians; 
}%) early settlers, mostly Scotch-Irish, who not 

only had the Indians to contend with, but also 
venomous reptiles and beasts of prey, with which the 
country abounded; near the cabin door one would 
hear the quick snap of the viselike jaws of the wolf, 
one could see the panther crouching in a tree, or the 
catamount glaring from a thicket. Chief industries, 
agriculture and coal mining; entire county is under- 
laid with bituminous coal of finest quality; glass and 
brick-making are important; electricity and natural 
gas solve the heating and lighting problems. 

INDIANA, county seat, laid out in 1805; population 
7043; courthouse, in center of town, brick and gray 
stone, Renaissance, built, 1871, jail in same style 
joins it, built, 1888. Town hall, brick with Cleveland 
limestone trimmings, Renaissance, built, 1913, archi- 
tect, H. King Conklin, Newark, New Jersey. Savings 
and Trust Company, white brick, Renaissance. Presby- 
terian Church, semi-Gothic, Hummelstone, has fine 
windows, one by Dodge, New York, formerly with 
Tiffany. United Presbyterian Church, Moorish, brick, 
built, 1851. State Normal School, northeast of town 
on high ground beautifully kept, buildings all of stone 
or brick, modern school construction, contains good 
reproductions of famous paintings and replicas of 
celebrated sculpture, distributed throughout the build- 

(381) 





ALE OF MILES 
10 20 






re ieee 
“UGH Ep CH 
“ We 
Pe 3S 
3 PR 
AIND 


INDIANA COUNTY 


(382) 





THE DEVIL’S ELBOW, EAST OF INDIANA 


One of the most picturesque spots in the county 
Illustration loaned by “The Indiana Progress,” Indiana 





INDIANA COUNTY 383 


ings as a decorative and educational element; portrait 
of Jane E. Leonard, principal since opening in 1875, 
artist, H. S. Stevenson, Pittsburgh, was given by the 
alumni; and interesting class windows in Leonard Hall, 
given by three separate graduate classes, makers, 
Rudy Brothers, Pittsburgh; near the borough is Devil’s 
Elbow, one of nature’s beauty spots. 

Armstrong Spring, an old Indian camping ground, 
on Indian Trail, ‘Kittanning Path,” which passed 
north of the Rice Hill, west to this spring, in private 
property, and through normal school grounds to 
Kittanning, Armstrong County; over this trail Lieut. 
Colonel John Armstrong was sent with seven com- 
panies against Indians, at the battle of Blanket Hill, 
Kittanning, in 1756. Two miles west on Kittanning 
Pike is site of Clark’s blockhouse, first building in 
the county, the spring and part of old stone fort are 
still there, not marked. 

CHERRY TREE, on Susquehanna River prominent 
point on old purchase line, in treaty of William Penn 
with the Indians at Fort Stanwix, 1768, also called 
‘Canoe Point”; from here, the Indians carried their 
canoes to the Allegheny River at Kittanning, sixty 
miles away; a direct line between these two points 
formed part of the boundary of lands acquired from 
the Six Nations. Where original Cherry Tree stood 
is the meeting point of Indiana, Cambria, and Clear- 
field counties, monument erected by county commis- 
sioners; designed by E. F. Carr & Company, Quincy, 
Massachusetts, unveiled 1894; Governor Beaver made 
the address; inscription, ‘‘This monument is erected to 
mark Canoe Place, the corner of the Proprietaries Pur- 


384 INDIANA COUNTY 


chase from the Indians by Treaty at Fort Stanwix, 
New York, November 5, 1768.” In the southeast is 
a tunnel, part of old portage railroad through spur of. 
Alleghenies, where the Conemaugh makes a bend of two 
and one-half miles. Near are Aurora Falls, for sixty 
feet over rock and through a picturesque gorge to the 
Conemaugh River (Kiskiminetas) which forms southern 
boundary, tributary streams fall twenty to thirty feet to 
the mile. 

Near ARMAGH is the old Buena Vista Furnace, one ° 
of three operated in southeast section in the early forties, 
relic of the early iron industry when ore was taken from 
the hills, melted into pig metal, and transported to the 
markets over the old Pennsylvania Canal. BLAIRs- 
VILLE, on proposed William Penn highway, settled, 
1819, population 4391, named for John Blair of Blair’s 
Gap. First United Presbyterian Church, Tudor 
Gothic. LUZERNE is said to have largest electrically 
equipped coal (bituminous) operations in the world, 
and develops power to other operations within a radius 
of twenty-five miles. SALTZBURG, settled in 1817 by 
Andrew Boggs, is near site of an Indian village, beauti- 
ful Kiski Falls are here; several wells producing salt 
of excellent quality were put down from 1813 and later. 
ELDER’S RIDGE, academy, stone, built in 1816, was the 
first state vocational school in Pennsylvania. The 
underground railway was in active operation in Indiana 
County during the latter days of slavery, 


XXXVII 
CAMBRIA COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1804; named by early Welsh 
fk settlers for the Cambria Hills in Wales; has been 
called the Switzerland of America. Here are 
many places of historic and scenic interest. The old 
Kittanning Trail crossed the country in the north 
through Ashville, where there is an Indian burial 
ground. Near Carrollton is Hart’s Sleeping Place; he 
was a signer of the Declaration of Independence; the 
British made special exertion to take him a prisoner, so 
he wandered through the woods, sleeping in caves, being 
constantly hunted by the enemy. South is LORETTO, a 
quaint old mountain town with one street, and an 
almost entirely Roman Catholic community, founded 
by Prince Demetrius Gallitzin, who brought a colony of 
settlers into the Allegheny Mountains about 1796, and 
labored as a missionary in this district for forty years; 
he died in 1840; the church he built here has been rebuilt 
in a costly manner by Charles Schwab in honor of his 
birthplace. St. Francis College has the tomb and 
monument of Prince Gallitzin'in grounds. Southeast is 
GALLITZIN at western end of a tunnel two-thirds of a 
mile long on the Pennsylvania Railroad, 2160 feet above 
sea; a bronze statue of the prince is here. PRINCE 
GALLITZIN SPRING, with a monument near by, is along 
the State Highway near Summit, on top of the Alle- 
ghenies. 
Beyond is CRESSON, a noted and beautiful summer 
(385) 





SCALE OF MILES 
to — Tee dated See 


INDIANA {ft EARFIELD cong. 











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(386) 





MONUMENT TO THE UNKNOWN DEAD OF THE JOHNSTOWN FLOOD 





CAMBRIA COUNTY 387 


resort; here is Mount Aloysius Academy and the 
State Tuberculosis Sanatorium No. 2. EBENSBURG, 
county seat, laid out in 1805; population 2179, is also a 
summer resort; through the woods and around the 
lakes of this region the rhododendrons grow as tall as 
trees and are gorgeous in their bloom. Descending 
along the upper waters of the Conemaugh, numerous 
vestiges are seen of the old Portage Railroad, a series of 
inclined planes, connecting the State Canal at Holli- 
daysburg east and Johnstown on the west. Dickens 
wrote of the scenery along the canal, “Sometimes the 
way wound through some lonely gorge like a mountain 
pass in Scotland.”” Many dams, which arereally lakes, 
have been built by manufacturers, the largest is three 
and one-half miles long, surrounded by wooded hills 
with here and there a waterfall. 

JOHNSTOWN, population 67,327, at confluence of the 
Conemaugh River and Stony Creek, was founded in 
1800 by a Swiss Mennonite, Joseph Schantz (Johns). 
A glance at the deep, narrow valleys, with their high 
inclosing walls, goes far to explain the possibility of so 
tremendous a catastrophe as that which overwhelmed 
Johnstown on May 31, 1889. Conemaugh Lake, 
two and one-half miles long, one and one-half miles 
wide, was reserved as a fishing ground by a club of 
Pittsburgh engineers, its waters were restrained by a 
dam 1000 feet long, built by the state as a reservoir to 
store water for the state canal during the dry seasons; 
a continuance of violent rains filled the lake to overflow- 
ing; the break occurred at three o’clock in the afternoon, 
a gap of 300 feet being formed at once. The water that 
burst through swept down the valley in a mass one-half 

26 


388 CAMBRIA COUNTY 


mile wide, forty feet high, carrying everything in its way, 
completely destroying Johnstown and other towns and 
villages in its track, going 18 miles in seven minutes, 
the distance between Johnstown and the lake. The 
mass of houses, trees, machinery, railway iron and 
human bodies was checked by the railway bridge below 
Johnstown, which soon caught fire, probably burning to 
death hundreds of persons imprisoned in the wreckage. 
About 2205 lives were lost: in the Grandview Cemetery 
a large space is dedicated to the “Unidentified Dead,’ 
with a Westerly granite monument, having heroic 
size statues of Faith, Hope, and Charity; sculptor, F. 
Barnicoat, Quincy, Massachusetts; there are 778 
individual markers for the bodies, largely unidentified, 
laid out geometrically, so that from whatever angle the 
plot is seen, they are in curved rows. 

Johnstown was an important shipping station on the 
canal connecting Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. An 
interesting feature now remaining is the canal tunnel at 
bend of the Conemaugh, four miles east of J ohnstown; 
second such tunnel built in America; constructed by 
the state about 1828 or 1830; the first is in Lebanon 
County, made in 1827. The Carnegie Library received 
by bequest from James M. Swank, historian and iron 
and steel statistician, his books and historical relics. 
Franklin Street Methodist Episcopal Church, Gothic, 
gray sandstone; the sills under the windows of the audi- 
torium are dressed stones from the abandoned Pennsyl- 
vania Canal Locks, near site of the present Pennsy]l- 
vania Railroad station; architect, George Fritz. First 
Presbyterian Church, at the corner of Walnut and 
Lincoln Streets, dedicated, 1918; modified English 





THE GAP BELOW JOHNSTOWN 





CAMBRIA COUNTY 389 


Gothic, Cleveland gray sandstone and green tile, archi- 
tects, Badgley & Nicholas, Cleveland. 

The Cambria Steel Company began in 1840, when 
George S. King and David Stewart discovered a vein of 
iron ore about fifteen inches thick, on the Laurel Run, 
west of Johnstown; they built the first blast furnace in 
Cambria County in 1842, calling it the Cambria Fur- 
nace; in 1843 Dr. Peter Shoenberger bought out David 
Stewart’s interest; he was the great ironmaster of his 
time, conducting a chain of furnaces, forges and rolling 
mills, stretching almost 500 miles, from the old Mari- 
etta furnace in Lancaster to the Wheeling, West Vir- 
ginia, iron works. The Cambria Iron Works were 
completed in 18538, and sold to a syndicate of Phila- 
delphians who selected Matthew Newkirk as president; 
in 1854 they rolled the first iron rails; the first steel 
rails in America were rolled here in 1867 from blooms 
imported from England. Iron is the county’s chief 
industry. 





SCALE OF MILES 
2 





CLEARFIELD COUNTY 


(390) 


XXXVITI 
CLEARFIELD COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1804; named by the first 
}e settlers from a cleared field in the forest made by 

the Indians, site of “Chingleclamouche’s old 
Town,” said to have been the most considerable Indian 
village on the upper West Branch of the Susquehanna, 
now Clearfield Borough. The whole county is a con- 
tinuous prospect of intensely picturesque scenery; sur- 
face mountainous, with ranges broken into innumerable, 
irregular spurs, indented by streams; from many hill- 
tops views of the greater part of the county may be 
seen; the “ Knobs,” its loftiest summit, is constantly in 
view, and the intermediate country, a panorama of 
natural beauty, ever changing in atmospheric effects; 
all the creeks, tributaries of the West Branch of the 
Susquehanna, have scenery which beggars description, 
a veritable feast for the painter, poet, and romancer; 
Moshannon and Clearfield Creeks had their beaver 
dams. 

Up Anderson’s Creek, on the old Milesburg and Le 
Boeuf road, opened prior to 1802, a detachment of regu- 
lars marched against the British at Lake Erie in the 
War of 1812. Important Indian trails traversed this 
county, crossing the head waters of Clearfield Creek, 
Chest Creek, near “Hart’s Sleeping Place,’ and the 
West Branch at Canoe Place. Another ran from 
Bald Eagle Creek where Marsh Creek empties, in 
Blair County, going west crossed Moshannon and 

4391) 


392 CLEARFIELD COUNTY 


Clearfield Creeks to Chingleclamouche; this was also 
called the Trader’s Path; none of the present roads are 
made upon the Indian trails. A mortar-shaped stone 
has been located about five miles east of Clearfield, on 
the State Highway, and has been marked by local 
Daughters of the American Revolution as site of an 
Indian mill for grinding corn. 

Karly settlers were mostly from older Eastern coun- 
ties; these were followed by Germans, Trish, Scotch- 
Trish, and French. Chief industry, the mining of 
bituminous coal. In 1828 Peter Karthaus arrived in 
Harrisburg with six arks, laden with bituminous coal 
from his mines in this county, it was exhibited in front 
of the Capitol; not until about 1870 did the industry 
begin to assume any great magnitude; today the yearly 
output aggregates millions of tons, and the lower meas- 
ures are not yet developed. Peter Karthaus also 
started the iron industry, near KARTHAUS, but it was 
short-lived; here, it is said, the first successful attempt 
was made in Pennsylvania to smelt iron by means of 
bituminous coal. Other important industries are vitri- 
fied brick, drain tile, and tanning. 

CLEARFIELD, county seat; population 8529: on 
land owned by Abraham Witmer, laid out, 1805, in 
regular squares like Philadelphia; streets running east 
and west are named, those north and south numbered. 
Two small parks were reserved along the West Branch. 
Principal buildings are scattered. Courthouse, brick, 
Romanesque, built in 1860, architects, Cleveland & 
Bachus, contains portraits of former judges, among 
them Honorable John Holden Orvis; it is located in 
center of the original plan of the borough. Near are 


CLEARFIELD COUNTY 393 


most of the churches, of which the Trinity Methodist 
Episcopal, Romanesque, and St. Francis’ Roman 
Catholic, Gothic, may be mentioned for architecture. 
The high school is well lighted and of best school con- 
struction; each of the principal towns of this county 
has its high school. Prominent men of Clearfield 
were, Honorable William Bigler, State Governor, and 
Honorable William A. Wallace, United States Senator; 
they are buried in Hillcrest Cemetery; a monument 
to Govenor Bigler was erected by the state. 


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Ti1oGA COUNTY 


XXXIX 
TIOGA COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1804; name, corruption of 
5 the Iroquois word “‘Tiagoa”’ (gateway); noted 
for its high altitude and wonderful views; part 
of Allegheny plateau, where it breaks into parallel flat- 
topped mountains, supporting, in shallow basins, sev- 
eral isolated bituminous coal fields. Heritage of timber 
is being dissipated; the State Tree Nursery at Asaph is 
trying to replace the great waste. Chief industry, 
agriculture, land for dairy purposes is among the finest 
in the state, several extensive milk condenseries. In- 
dian trails crossed the county from Big Tree on the 
Genesee, among the Senecas, to the frontier at North- 
umberland. First great road was built by Charles 
Williamson of New York in 1792, agent for Sir William 
Poulteney, who had received a large grant of land in 
New York State, adjoining Pennsylvania, in the 
‘““Genesee Country,” home of the Seneca Indians; 
the road, commencing at Loyalsock, passed through 
what is now Williamsport, up Lycoming Creek to 
Trout Run, over Laurel Hill to “Block House,” now 
Liberty; here Williamson built a blockhouse of logs 
20 by 40 feet, as place of refuge; to Peter’s Camp, now 
Blossburg, where coal was discovered in 1792; ending 
near Bath, New York, it opened up to settlers 15,000,- 
000 acres of land in Pennsylvania north of Williams- 
port; this road is still used from Williamsport to Tioga 
County. 
(395) 


396 TIOGA COUNTY 


County seat, WELLSBORO, population 3452, named 
for William Hill Wells, United States Senator 1799— 
1814, laid out March 21, 1806, in a primeval wilderness. 
Courthouse, center of group of county buildings facing 
the public green, colonial with cupola, built in 1835, 
native sandstone and conglomerate, which was hauled 
on ox sleds for several miles over poor roads; high on 
the southwest wall is carved the outline of an eagle, 
insignia of one of the stonecutters from the neighboring 
Welsh settlement. Opposite, across the green, is the 
brick office of the Bingham Estate, built in 1855, and 
still occupied by the agent, patent of 1,000,000 acres, 
land mostly in northern tier, included site of Bingham- 
ton, New York. William Bingham, lived 1751-1804, 
was a Philadelphia merchant, member of Continental 
Congress, and of the United States Senate. Facing the 
courthouse is a Soldiers’ Monument to Civil War 
heroes, dedicated, 1886; also on the green is a monu- 
ment to the late John Magee, who developed the coal 
fields and railroads of the county, a colossal portrait 
bust on polished granite pedestal; sculptor, Samuel 
Conkey, New York. 

Best modern buildings are, The Presbyterian Church, 
Gothic, Ohio sandstone, erected in 1894, architects, 
Culver & Hudson, Williamsport, contains, among 
memorial windows, one to George Dwight Smith, 
killed in the battle of Smith Mountain; also Tiffany 
tablet to Mrs. A. C. Shaw, white marble, framed in mo- 
saic of favrile glass. St. Paul’s Protestant Episcopal 
Church, fronting the green, is a choice example 
of Norman Romanesque, the last ecclesiastical work 
of the late Halsey Wood, New York, built in 1897, 


; see 





ANTIQUE CAPITAL, CHESTER PLACE, WELLSBORO 
Used as a sun dial 
From Stanford White collection 





TIOGA COUNTY 397 


native sandstone, windows furnished by Tiffany, are 
quiet and pleasing in tone, of unusual harmony with 
the masonry; pulpit and altar are also from the Tiffany 
studios; the church contains many fine memorials. 
St. Peter’s Roman Catholic Church was remodeled from 
the old academy, locally an important and historic 
institution; standing on a hill the church raises aloft a 
gilded cross, impressive and beautiful above the sur- 
rounding foliage. 

The broad main street is paved with brick, around a 
central strip of green grass, and shaded with fine old 
elms and maples. The Wellsboro Cemetery, purchased 
in 1855, was laid out by B. F. Hathaway, landscape 
gardener, of Flushing, Long Island; stone arch gate- 
way, Romanesque, of local conglomerate, is memo- 
rial to Honorable Henry Warren Williams, Justice 
of Supreme Court, buried here; architect, J. H. Con- 
sidine, Elmira; on summit of the knoll is the grave of 
George W. Sears, poet of outdoor life and wood lore, 
monument has bas-relief bronze portrait, set in granite; 
Honorable John J: Mitchell, Judge of Pennsylvania 
Supreme Court and United States Senator, is also 
buried here. Woodland Park, twenty-six acres, is 
owned by Leonard Harrison, Esq., who generously 
maintains it for public use; has surface of hill and dell, 
stretches of natural forest, and fine views from its 
~ higher outlooks. 

Several citizens have grounds formally laid out, and 
planted under professional advice; of these, designed 
by Bryant Fleming, of Townsend & Fleming, Buffalo, 
is Chester Place, left to the borough by bequest, 
for a public library; the garden has an Italian roofed 


398 TIOGA COUNTY 


pergola ending with a marble bust and seats, on top 
of the terrace which divides the upper and lower 
gardens; a sundial, fastened to an old Spanish Ren- 
aissance capital, which came from the collection of 
garden marbles made by the late Stanford White, 
is on a rectangular plot of green, and forms the cen- 
ter of one garden room, surrounded by a brick walk, 
in turn framed by a broad border of shubbery; into 
the brick pavement are set little marble panels, carved 
with designs of roses, birds, etc., other insets contain 
quotations appropriate to gardens; set into the wall 
outside at right and left of entrance, are tiles with trees 
in bas-relief, inside, correspondingly placed, are reliefs 
showing old Italian garden decorations, Socrates and 
Hercules. 

Just outside of Wellsboro is an old covered wooden 
bridge, in Pine Creek Gorge, through which the Tya- 
daghton (River of Pines) runs, mountains rise perpen- 
dicularly on either side for 1000 feet; the gorge is 
sixteen miles long, filled with trout stream tributaries, 
where also bear, deer, and other game abound. 

In MANSFIELD is a state normal school, on beauti- 
fully terraced hill, five buildings, brick with marble or 
brownstone and terra-cotta trimmings, built 1889-1909, 
later buildings, modified classic; contains many fine 
carbon prints of famous paintings and buildings, also 
plaster replicas of noted pieces of sculpture. Carnegie 
Free Library, classic architecture, built, 1912, light- 
pressed brick; architects for school and library, Pierce 
& Bickford, Elmira, New York. 


XL 


McKEAN COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1804; named for Thomas 
McKean, second Governor of Pennsylvania; 
mean altitude 1700 feet. Mount Jewett is one 

of the high points in the state; half a mile from Mount 
Jewett is the great Kinzua Viaduct on the Erie Rail- 
road, said to be the highest bridge in the state across a 
ravine. The electric line to Olean, New York, eighteen 
miles, through Red Rock, reveals great scenic grandeur. 
Chief industry, producing and refining petroleum. 
SMETHPORT, county seat; was incorporated in 1807; 
population, 1568. In the courthouse grounds is a 
granite monument to the Civil War soldiers of this 
county; it was shown in the Centennial Exposition, 
Philadelphia. St. Luke’s Protestant Episcopal Church, 
a gift from Hon. Henry Hamlin; consecrated 1892; 
is pure fourteenth century English Gothic; architect, 
Halsey Wood. Altar and reredos of Caen stone, 
surmouted by a very beautiful, delicately carved 
canopy; memorial font, Caen stone; all memorials 
were designed by the architect; organ from Johnson & 
Sons, Westfield, Massachusetts. In the public school 
grounds is a tablet marking the route of General Brod- 
head’s expedition. On the highway, near Lafayette, 
is a tablet marking place where General Brodhead 
passed across the county from Allegheny River, when 
he came from Pittsburgh against the Indians; placed 
by Smethport Daughters of the American Revolution. 
BRADFORD, chief city; population, 15,525; is said to 
contain the only plant in America for the manufacture 
(399) 


Q NOYAN VI 
B; feet 


ALNNOQ NVEYOW 





(400) 





KINZUA BRIDGE 
The highest bridge in the world 


— 


a 





McKEAN COUNTY 401 


of oxalic acid, it produces 10,000 pounds daily. The 
City Hall, Post Office, and Carnegie Library are fine 
buildings. The McKean County Historical Society has 
rooms in the Carnegie Library; among their collections 
are valuable historical papers and autographs, photo- 
graphs, and samples of products relating to the oil 
industry, portraits of distinguished Pennsylvanians, 
and busts of General Kane and of Abraham Lincoln; 
the latter, by Theophilus Mills, is said to be one of the 
only two living masks ever made of Lincoln; it was 
made six weeks before the assassination, and after 
many years it was purchased from the son of the 
sculptor by Mr. R. B. Stone, and placed in the Brad- 
ford Library. The Museum and Art Gallery, owned 
by Lewis Emery, Jr., Esq., is at times open to the 
public. On the public square is a boulder, in honor of 
Governor McKean, from a tract of land in Annin Town- 
ship, deeded to Thomas McKean by John Bull, a patriot 
of the Revolution. A tablet commemorating the Spanish 
‘War soldiers was erected by Spanish War veterans. 
KANE, a beautiful mountain resort, has Evergreen 
Park, a native forest, given to the town by the Erie Rail- 
road, through their agent, General Thomas L. Kane; a 
path through the forest is named for General Grant, 
who frequently enjoyed trout fishing here with General 
Kane. Facing this park is the high school; classic 
style, architects, Davis & Davis, Philadelphia; con- 
tains good collection of photographic reproductions 
of famous paintings and architecture. The Presby- 
terian Church is memorial to General Kane, commander 
of the Bucktail Regiment, erected by his family. At 
LEwIs RUN the great Indian hunter, Jim Jacobs, lived. 


SCALE OF MILFS 


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Potter County 


(402) 


XLI 
POTTER COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1804; named for General 
P) James Potter, an officer of the Revolution, is an 
almost trackless wilderness covered with dense 
growth of pine and hemlock, the haunt of bear, deer, 
wolf, panther, fox, and other wild game. Mean eleva- 
tion is about 1900 feet above sea. At head waters of 
the West Branch, Genesee and Allegheny rivers, in the 
north, the ground is rolling, with beautiful farms; the 
southern part is broken by deep valleys and lofty moun- 
tains, with most picturesque scenery, especially in the 
Kettle Creek and Sinnemahoning valleys. Probably 
the first white man to cross the county was David Zeis- 
berger, who passed down the Allegheny River to mouth 
of the Tionesta, Forest County, in 1767; his journal, 
now on file in the Moravian Library at Bethlehem, tells 
of the wild beauty of the county. Farming and stock 
raising are gaining, but the main industry is still lumber- 
ing, with second growth of hardwoods, maple, beech, 
and birch, which will in time be a great nucleus of 
wealth. 

Earliest important road is the Jersey Shore Turn- 
pike, running from Jersey Shore at the mouth of 
Pine Creek, Lycoming County, through most wonder- 
ful scenery to Coudersport and on to Buffalo; an effort 
is being made to have this historic highway improved, 
as it is the most direct way from the West Branch 
Valley to Buffalo. On this road is the site of Oleona. 

27 (403) 


404 POTTER COUNTY 


Ole Bull, the famous violinist, attempted the settlement 
of a colony of Norwegians; in 1852, he purchased 
11,144 acres on Kettle Creek, in the then almost un- 
broken forests; and laid out four villages, New 
Norway, New Bergen, Oleona, and Walhalla; this 
proved a sad failure, and the land is now included in 
the State Forest Reserve. Ole Bull’s Castle, with a 
great stone wall, still partly standing, was built about 
a mile below Oleona, on the crest of a bluff. Travel is 
generally good in summer, during the winter the heavy 
snowdrifts are often too deep for passage, temperature 
often falling to 40° below zero. 

COUDERSPORT, county seat, settled in 1807; popula- 
tion 2836; courthouse, substantial, colonial building 
in the square, on the main street; in the grounds is the 
Soldiers’ Monument, a granite shaft, pedestal has names 
of Potter County men who fell in war for the Union. 
The famous Bucktail Regiment was recruited largely 
from Potter County, noted marksmen, many had been 
famous hunters, and because of their wonderful skill 
with the rifle were made sharpshooters in the Civil War. 
Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, incorporated, 
1838, present stone building, Gothic, built in 1885, on 
ground given by Miss Katharine Dent. The beautiful 
little church, “All Saints,” at Brookland, near the old 
Dent Homestead, memorial to Henry Hatch Dent, by 
his children, maintained by endowment, is native stone, 
with stained glass windows, marble memorial altar, and 
other artistic furnishings, open by appointments of the 
Bishop, it stands, as old “St. Martins-in-the-Field,” 
a solitary witness for Christianity and the Church. 

First Presbyterian, oldest church organization in 





ON THE SINNEMAHONING CREEK 


POTTER COUNTY 405 


Coudersport, established 1832, first building made in 
1849, on ground given by John Keating, Esq., present 
building, Fourth and Main Streets, dedicated in 1908, 
Italian Renaissance; other denominations have good 
ehurch buildings. The Pennsylvania Historical 
Commission has made an appropriation for the placing 
of a monument to David Ziesberger at Coudersport; 
they will also place tablets at site of Ole Bull’s Castle 
and near the Austin disaster; the Austin flood, in 1911, 
when the town was almost blotted out, and many lives 
were lost and property destroyed, was perhaps the 
worst calamity which has ever visited the county. 
Three miles east of Coudersport is ‘The Sweden Val- 
ley Ice Mine,” in a shaft about six feet square and 
twelve feet deep; during the hot summer weather ice 
is formed here in large quantities; the Smithsonian 
Institution has published a number of articles concern- 
ing these ice caves. 


SCALE OF MILES 





JEFFERSON COUNTY 


(406) 


XLII 
JEFFERSON COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1804; named for Thomas 
Jefferson; steep and rugged hills line the water- 
courses of every stream, alternating with fine 

valley land, traversed by good roads through most 
picturesque scenery; the views are a continual delight. 
In early days large tracts of this land were held by rich 
proprietors who would neither improve nor sell at a 
fair price. The pioneer hewed his canoes out of pine 
trees, large enough to receive a barrel of flour crosswise; 
a homemade rope of flax was attached to the front to 
pull them over the ripples. The county is wonder- 
fully rich in coal and an abundance of natural gas, and 
has developed more along commercial than it has along 
artistic lines. Chief industries: stock raising, coal, 
iron, glass, and silk. 

County seat, BROOKVILLE, laid out in 1830; popula- 
tion 8272. Hunts Point, now Carrier’s addition of 
Brookville, was once an Indian village. Main Street 
runs east and west. Pickering Street crosses at right 
angles. Courthouse, at the corner of Main and Picker- 
ing Streets; Renaissance, brick; contains portraits. 
The Brookville Park Association is making great civic 
improvements; a park of ten acres is in the center of the 
town and a fine new park building or auditorium is 
being erected; the organization being truly altruistic, 
to the intent that no dividends shall be paid to the 
subscribers, but all profits applied to municipal improve- 

(407) 


408 JEFFERSON COUNTY 


ments. ‘There are several churches, among them may 
be mentioned the Presbyterian and Methodist for 
architecture; both Romanesque; stone. The Presby- 
terian has good stained glass windows. The Daughters 
of the American Revolution have placed a small monu- 
ment to Joseph Barnett in the old cemetery. Fort 
Barnett was one mile east of Brookville, on the old 
turnpike (Mead’s Trail); his cabin in 1799 is said to 
have been the only one within seventy-five miles. 

PUNXSUTAWNEY, population 10,311, was an Indian 
village; during the eighteenth century, Moravian 
missionaries labored here among the Delaware tribes 
of the Algonquin Indians; Brother Ettewein kept a 
faithful record of his travels and work, describing his 
journey along Mahoning Creek, then named by the 
Indians “Mohulbucteetam,” or place where canoes 
are abandoned. Rev. David Barkley and his son-in- 
law, Dr. John W. Jenks, from Newtown, Bucks County, 
a graduate of the University of Pennsylvania in 1816, 
later made an associate judge,‘owned the land and 
laid out the town in 1820 in squares, including one for 
the public, which in this century has been made into a 
beautiful park by Frederick Olmstead, landscape gar- 
dener, of Brookline, Massachusetts; on each corner 
are old cannon from the Civil War. A fine brick 
post office with Ionic portico is here, built by the United 
States Government, and many beautiful churches. 
Christ Episcopal Church is built with stone taken from 
the creek bed and laid without any cutting; the soft 
brown color was caused by the mineral in the water, 
and is permanent. 


XLITI 
SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY 


ORMED February 21, 1810; named for situation, 
at head waters of the Susquehanna River, which 
completely drains the county, every stream flow- 

ing into it as it flows around a spur of the Alleghenies 
with the highest outline of two mountains; original 
Indian names, Onaquaga and Miantinomah. The 
scenery is beautifully diversified; there are numerous 
lakes, the largest, Crystal Lake, is over a mile long; 
from Elk Mountain, with its three peaks, sixteen lakes 
are visible, and the Water Gap is plainly seen on a 
clear day; from Ararat, 2040 feet above the sea level, 
is also an extended view. A panorama of great beauty 
is seen from the heights of Gibson Township; the 
slopes furnish unsurpassed grazing and abound in 
orchards and gardens; named for Chief Justice Gibson, 
the town was first settled in 1792 by Joseph Potter. 
The most beautiful auto ride through the county 
is from Montrose to SUSQUEHANNA, incorporated in 
1853, called the City of Stairs; Erie Railroad shops 
are here, the buildings, covering eight acres, include 
a Library and Lecture Hall. Martin’s Creek Viaduct, 
1600 feet long with eleven spans, on the Lackawanna 
Railroad, is said to be, next to the Tunkhannock Via- 
duct on same road, the largest concrete bridge in the 
world; this road is known as the shortest route between 
New York and Buffalo; owing to its high elevation 
through this county, the views are of extraordinary 
(409) 


ALNNOD VWNNVHandsng 





(410) 


SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY 411 


beauty. Earliest white settlement was at Great Bend; 
General James Clinton, with 1600 men, encamped here 
in 1799, en route to join General Sullivan at Chemung 
against the Indians. Chief industry, agriculture and 
butter making. 

MONTROSE, population 1661; made county seat in 
1811, first settled by Stephen Wilson of Vermont in 
1799, is a notable health resort because of its altitude; 
it was developed through the liberality of Dr. R. H. 
Rose and Isaac Post, the latter was first postmaster 
in 1808. Dr. Rose purchased 100,000 acres in 1807, 
partly in Silver Lake Township, and developed 
the resources of the county. Public buildings face the 
square, in which is the monument to Civil War soldiers. 
Courthouse, a fine structure, colonial architecture, built 
in 1842, contains a portrait of Honorable Galusha A. 
Grow, who was sent to Congress from this county. The 
conference building seats 3000; here The Bible Insti- 
tute is held each summer. At SPRINGVILLE was farm of 
Zophar Blakeslee, whose daughter, Sarah, was married 
to Honorable Asa Packer. BROOKLYN was early resi- 
dence of George Catlin, who became noted as a painter 
of Indians. JACKSON started as a beaver meadow. 
When THOMSON was first settled, in 1820, an un- 
broken forest of beech wood stretched eastward for fifty 
miles. | 


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S3TIW 3O 39Vv9S 


(412) 


XLIV 
BRADFORD COUNTY 


ORMED February 21, 1810, as Ontario; on 
/%) March 24, 1812, named in honor of William 
Bradford, an attorney general in the cabinet of 
Washington; surface hilly or rolling. Chief industries 
are dairying and breeding of fine cattle and thorough- 
bred horses. Said to be first place on record visited by 
a white man in Pennsylvania; in 1615 Stephen Bruhle, 
explorer and interpreter for Samuel Champlain, with 
twelve Huron Indians, came to Carouantian, a palisaded 
village of the Carouantiannais, on Spanish Hill, just 
above present towns of Sayre and Athens; he found 
here 800 warriors, 500 of whom went with him to aid 
Champlain against the Onondaga stronghold in New 
York. Bruhle returned to Carouantian, remained 
during the winter of 1615-16, and explored the Susque- 
hanna River to the sea, making report to Champlain. 
First road was the great Indian warpath along the 
Susquehanna, used by General Sullivan and his Conti- 
nental Army in expedition against the Indians in 1779; 
the state road, from Wilkes-Barre, up the river, through 
Wyoming and Bradford counties, is substantially on 
this old trail; historic places along the road are well 
marked, a monument thirteen feet high, native stone, 
from Campbell’s Ledge above Pittston; erected by 
the Moravian Historical Society in 1871 near Wya- 
lusing, marks location of the Moravian mission, 
inscription, “To mark site of Friedenshutten (Mach- 
(413) 


414 BRADFORD COUNTY 


wilusing), a settlement of Moravian Indians between 
1765-1772”; this mission was removed to Beaver 
County in 1772. Farther west, near the Presby- 
terian church, is a large boulder with bronze tablet, 
inscription, “Near this site from August 5-8, 1779, 
camped the army of Maj. Gen’l Sullivan, on their 
expedition against the Six Nations, erected by Mach- 
wilusing Chapter, D. A. R. 1914’; this road after 
leaving Wyalusing, leads over the hill a distance 
from the river, to which it returns again at Rum- 
merfield, near where Mrs. Roswell Franklin was 
killed by Indians; her family was rescued. 

Farther up the river is the county’s oldest historic 
landmark on west bank of the Susquehanna, “Stand- 
ing Stone,” 25 feet high, 21 feet at base, tapers from 
4 to 3 feet in thickness, rising out of the water: a 
landmark even in early Indian history; plainly visible 
from the road; General Sullivan’s army of 3500 men 
camped on the plain opposite ; three miles east of 
Towanda is Wysox village and creek, in front of an 
old brick church is where Major Henry van Campen, 
with two other captives, succeeded in releasing them- 
selves, under guard by twice their number of Indians, 
killing all except one. Near is a large boulder of Bar- 
clay sandstone, with bronze tablet; inscription: “This 
stone commemorates the passing through Wesauking, 
Aug. 9 and Oct. 4, 1779, of Maj. Gen’l John Sullivan 
and his troops against the Six Nations. Erected, 
1908, by the George Clymer Chapter, D. A. Ry 
Towanda, Pennsylvania” ; on the level plain be- 
tween this creek and the river General Sullivan’s 
army camped. 


BRADFORD COUNTY 415 


From Wysox the road diverges west from the old 
trail, continues over a modern steel bridge, built in 1915, 
replacing an old covered wooden one made in 1834, to 
Towanda. Eight miles northwest is Ulster; passing on 
the way: near mouth of Sugar Creek is site of an impor- 
tant palisaded Indian village called “Ogehage,’’ later 
“Oscalui,” still later, in 1779, “Newtychanning,” 
marked; at junction of this great warpath along the 
Susquehanna, with one leading from this point to head 
waters of Towanda Creek near Canton; thence to head 
waters of Lycoming Creek, down that stream to West 
Branch of the Susquehanna near Williamsport. At 
Ulster (old Sheshequin) was a Moravian mission, 
removed at time of migration to Beaver in 1772: a 
steel bridge crosses the river here. Next is Milan 
village, near which was Indian Queen Esther’s Town, 
destroyed by Colonel Hartley in 1778. 

Proceeding on General Sullivan’s road, one crosses 
the Chemung (Tioga) River on a modern steel bridge 
and enters Athens, formerly Tioga Point; here was 
Fort Sullivan, base of supplies for the army; destroyed 
by themselves in October, 1779, on their departure for 
Wyoming; marked by boulder with bronze tablet, 
inscription: “In Sullivan’s expedition, the march 
that destroyed savagery and opened the Keystone 
and Empire States to civilization, four brigades, fur- 
nished by the States of Pennsylvania, New York, New 
Jersey, and New Hampshire, with Proctor’s Artillery, 
and Farr’s Riflemen took part; at Tioga Point, long 
the southern door of the Indian Confederacy, 5000 
troops encamped; here stood Fort Sullivan, with four 
blockhouses, from August 11 to October 8, 1779; tablet 


416 BRADFORD COUNTY 


erected by Tioga Chapter, Daughters of the American 
Revolution.”” Below the plate is embedded a ball from 
one of General Sullivan’s guns; the road separates 
here, one following the Susquehanna to Owego, the 
other following the Chemung to Elmira (Newtown), 
New York; near the latter road is the “Battlefield of 
Newtown,” where General Sullivan fought the Tories 
and Indians in 1779. 

A soldiers’ monument is on the campus in front of the 
old ATHENS Academy, designed by McKim, Mead & 
White, New York; ground foundation twenty-five feet 
square, inclosed in granite curbing with polished globes 
at each corner; pedestal, eleven feet high, rising from 
the center, polished granite, on unpolished granite cop- 
ing, surmounted by a bronze group, “The Protection 
of the Flag,” a barefoot drummer boy with a flag over 
his shoulder and a tall, fearless soldier, holding a musket 
which points to the ground, sculptor, George T. Brew- 
ster; inscription, in bronze letters, fitted to the face of 
the granite: “Pro patria et gloria. Erected to the 
memory of our soldiers who fought in defense of the 
flag’; presented by Joseph Whipple and Charlotte Snell 
Stickler. Spaulding Library and Museum, classic 
Renaissance with Ionic porch, open to the public, 
contains paintings, portraits, and relics. In 1688 a 
Spanish fort was near the present borough of Athens; 
population 4384. 

TOWANDA, county seat, laid out in 1812; population 
4269; courthouse native sandstone, classic Renais- 
sance, built in 1897; in front is the soldiers’ monument, 
at base are bronze tablets inscribed with names of 
battles of Bradford County men in war for the Union; 


PRO PATRIA 
ET GLORIA. 


SRerter ve ves x tacae 





DEFENSE OF THE FLAG 


McKim, Mead & White Pedestal 
George T. Brewster, Sculptor 


4 





BRADFORD COUNTY 417 


Pickett’s charge at Gettysburg; and the battle scene 
at Antietam; dedicated in 1901. Towanda Free 
Library, French Renaissance, brick, built, 1897, was 
given and endowed by Francis R. Welles of Paris, 
France; architects, Barney & Chapman, New York; 
contains a special set of art books, “L’Art.”’ 

In Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, native sand- 
stone, is memorial window to William Ulysses Mercur, 
Chief Justice of Pennsylvania, 1882-87; makers, Cox 
Sons & Buckley, London. The Methodist Episcopal 
Church, also, has memorial windows. Historical 
Society of Bradford County, fireproof building open to 
the public; contains Indian and Civil War relics, curios, 
and portraits of pioneer men and women, a reproduction 
of a pioneer log house, and specimens of all native woods 
in the county. In Riverside Cemetery is the grave of 
David Wilmot, who made the famous proviso, engraved 
on his monument, against slavery. There are many 
borough and township high schools in Bradford County. 


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(418) 


XLV 
SCHUYLKILL COUNTY 


ORMED March 1, 1811, named for the Schuyl- 
}%) kill River; was purchased from the Six Nations 

in 1749. George Godfried Orwig, first settler, in 
1747, lived at Sculp Hill; he was followed by other Ger- 
mans. ORWIGSBURG, first county seat, in 1811, was 
founded in 1796, by Peter Orwig, son of George; old 
courthouse still standing, is used as a factory; extensive 
views from here of mountains and agricultural valleys. 
In chain of frontier forts, were Franklin, built, 1756, by 
order of Benjamin Franklin; Fort Henry, south of Pine- 
grove; and Fort Lebanon, later known as Fort William, 
the most important, its site near Auburn, is marked by 
boulder with bronze tablet, inscription, ‘On this site 
stood Fort Lebanon, built, 1775, by Colonel Jacob 
Morgan, for protection of early settlers against 
Indians, erected in 1913 by Mahantongo Chapter, 
Daughters of the American Revolution, Pottsville, Pa.’ 
Indian warriors came down from the mountains and 
made savage forays on the peaceful farms, in which 
many people were massacred, and mills and houses 
were burned; the old oak tree is standing near, from 
which sentinels took observations; in this fort the 
first religious services in the county were held. 

One mile from Fort Lebanon is the old Red Church, 
built in 1755, destroyed by Indians, 1756, rebuilt, 1776, 
celebrated its sesquicentennial in 1905. This county 
revels in picturesque scenery; excellent roads curve 

28 ) (419) 


420 SCHUYLKILL COUNTY 


through valleys of surpassing richness and fertility, 
or wander along a ridge with glorious views on either 
side; in the north, the sky line of a mountain range is 
often broken by a weird coal breaker; in every direction 
there is beauty and interest. Laurel may be seen by 
the acre, and much rhododendron. Great cliffs of 
various colored conglomerate rock are found through- 
out the county. 

This is the southern limit of the ANTHRACITE COAL 
fields in east central Pennsylvania, the only ones 
of importance in the United States; divided into three 
well-known trade regions, Wyoming; Lehigh; and 
Schuylkill; comprising an area of 480 square miles, in 
the counties of Carbon, Columbia, Lackawanna, North- 
umberland, Luzerne, Susquehanna, and Schuylkill. 
Discovered in Schuylkill County by Nicho Allen in 
1790; while camping out overnight, he built a fire 
among some rocks, under shelter of the trees; during 
the night, being awakened by unusual heat he saw the 
rocks a mass of glowing fire, he having ignited the out- 
crop of a bed of coal. The birth of this great productive 
industry may be dated from 1820, when 365 tons were 
sent to Philadelphia from the head waters of the Lehigh 
River. 80,000,000 tons per annum are now produced; 
location of coal was shown in William Scull’s map of 
Pennsylvania published in 1770; three places marked. 

In 1795 it was used successfully for smithing by a 
blacksmith named Whitestone, but not generally for 
this purpose until 1806. In 1812, Colonel George 
Shoemaker produced coal from a shaft on land he 
owned, now known as the Centreville Tract; loaded 
nine wagons and drove to Philadelphia, where he was 


SCHUYLKILL COUNTY 421 


accused of being an impostor, attempting to sell stone 
for coal; he sold two loads for cost of transportation, 
and gave the rest away to those who promised to try 
to use it; he induced Messrs. Mellon & Bishop to try 
it in their rolling mill in Delaware County, where it 
was found to be a complete success; iron was heated 
in much less time than usual, and the workmen said, 
“‘It passed through the rolls like lead.” 

From 1830, rapid improvements were made in meth- 
ods of mining and transporting coal. First breaker in 
this county was erected by Gideon Bast on Wolf Creek, 
near Minersville. The St. Clair shaft was sunk in 
1845, by Alfred Lawton, to Primrose vein, 122 feet; in 
1851, E. W. McGinness continued the depth of shaft to 
the Mammoth vein, 488 feet. At Wadesville a shaft 
was sunk 6191% feet. A shaft located by General 
Henry Pleasants is deepest coal shaft in the United 
States, 1584 feet. The collieries of the Philadelphia & 
Reading Coal Company are the most extensive. Prop- 
erty in Schuylkill and Columbia counties 18,333 acres, 
one third coal, devised by Stephen Girard to the City of 
Philadelphia in trust, comprises some of the most valu- 
able tracts in the anthracite region; Girard was largely 
instrumental in building the Schuylkill Canal to Phila- 
delphia, connecting with this was a railroad and a 
series of gravity planes between Girardville and Mount 
Carbon, head of the canal; the Girard Railroad, opened 
in 1834, was one of the greatest engineering feats of 
the time, attracting international comment; much of 
the masonry is still to be seen. 

In 1690, William Penn called attention to the feasi- 
bility of passage by water between the Susquehanna 


4.29 SCHUYLKILL COUNTY 


River and Tulpehocken Creek, a branch of the Schuyl- 
kill; in 1762 David Rittenhouse and Dr. William 
Smith surveyed a route for a canal, to connect waters 
of the Susquehanna and Schuylkill, via Swatara and 
Tulpehocken Creeks; and actually traced a line 
between the Delaware and Ohio Rivers at Fort Pitt, 
thence to Erie. The Union Canal connecting the 
Schuylkill and Susquehanna Rivers was completed in 
1826 by the Schuylkill Navigation Company; they did 
great work in their day; years of greatest prosperity 
were from 1835-41. 

In 1800, Reese & Thomas located an iron furnace 
on the site of Pottsville. In 1807 Greenwood furnace 
and forge were erected by John Pott. In 1839, Pioneer 
furnace at Pottsville, under Burd Patterson, was blown 
in with anthracite coal, by Benjamin Perry, and ran 
for about three months, among the first to use success- 
fully anthracite coal in the blast furnace in United 
States. POTTSVILLE, county seat, 1395 feet above 
sea; population 21,876, laid out in 1816, has not one 
level street; flights of steps are frequently used to 
get to various heights; fine views from every point. 
Acommission for city planning haslately been appointed. 

Courthouse erected in 1892, architect, Mr. Taylor, 
stands on a hill in a terraced square, has portraits of 
judges; in the old courthouse, to the rear, 
now torn down, the Mollie Maguires were tried and 
convicted in 1876. Soldiers’ Monument erected in 
1891 is in Garfield Square, on a pedestal are names of 
battles fought by Schuylkill County men in Civil War; 
the Washington Artillery and National Light Infantry 
of Pottsville, 246 men, were part of the 530 Pennsy]l- 





HENRY CLAY IRON MONUMENT, POTTSVILLE 





SCHUYLKILL COUNTY 423 


vanians who first arrived at our national Capital for 
its defense in 1861; Schuylkill County sent 13,000 
volunteers; there are also soldiers’ monuments at 
Port Carbon, St. Clair, and Mahanoy City. A 
statue of John Pott is in the playground of Center 
Street public school, formerly a cemetery. 

Pennsylvania, the coal-producing state of the Union, 
has every reason to be grateful to Henry Clay for advo- 
cating a protective tariff on her principal product; 
Pottsville’s enthusiasm culminated in the Henry Clay 
Monument, completed in 1855, soon after his death, 
west of South Center Street, an iron Doric column, 
surmounted by an iron statue of Henry Clay, after the 
painting by P. F. Rothermel, “Senate of 1850’; first 
colossal iron casting of its kind made in the United 
States; from sidewalk to top of statue, 205 feet. 
Pottsville Cemetery contains grave of Joseph Elison, 
member of Greely Arctic expedition, who died at Port 
Haven, Greenland, in 1884, soon after being rescued by 
the late Rear Admiral Schley; a diary, kept until his 
hands were frozen stiff, will soon be published by the 
Pottsville Historical Society. Parks in Schuylkill 
County are, ‘ Lakeside,” above Mahony City; “ Mar- 
lin,” near Pottsville; “Manilla,” east of Tamaqua; 
“Woodland,” between Ashland and Girardville; ‘‘ Wash- 
ington,” between Ashland and Locust Dale; they are 
combinations of formal gardening with natural beauty; 
“Tumbling Run Dam,” near Pottsville, is beautiful 
in its setting. SHENANDOAH, population 24,726, 
contains a mixed mining population; twenty-six lan- 
guages and dialects are spoken here. 


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LEHIGH COUNTY 


(424) 


XLVI 
LEHIGH COUNTY 
Pr ice: March 6, 1812; named for Lehigh 


River, from an Indian name, Lechauwekink 
' (where there are forks); Indian trails forked 
in various directions below Bethlehem. The Blue 
Mountains are north and the Lehigh Hills south, 
containing large deposits of slate and cement. Chief 
industries, agriculture and manufacturing. 
ALLENTOWN, county seat, at junction of Jordan 
and Little Lehigh Creeks; population 73,502; was 
settled in 1751 by Chief Justice William Allen, a friend 
of the Penns; is entered from the south by, it is said, 
the largest concrete bridge in the world, erected by a 
trolley company, 2650 feet long and 120 feet high; 
built in 1913. The city has an abundant supply of 
pure water, pumped direct from the spring to the 
residences; daily flow, 12,000,000 gallons. Courthouse, 
colonial, with cupola, Fifth and Hamilton Streets. 
First Presbyterian Church, North Fifth Street, near 
Hamilton, Renaissance. Jail, North Fourth Street, 
near Linden, feudal architecture, with tower 100 feet 
high, brown sandstone. Architect G. A. Aschbach. 
Allen Park, Fourth and Walnut Streets, contains 
“Trout Hall,” stone, built, 1770, by James Allen, son 
of the founder, which will be occupied by the Lehigh 
County Historical Society; West Park and River 
Park are also in Allentown; west of the city is Dorney’s 
Park, along Cedar Creek. In Center Square is the 
(425) 


4.26 LEHIGH COUNTY 


Soldiers’ Monument to the men of Lehigh County in 
the Civil War; on the pedestal are bronze bas-reliefs 
depicting scenes of war and reconciliation, and medallion 
busts of Generals Meade, McClellan, Hancock, and 
Hartranft. United States post office, at the corner of 
Sixth and Turner Streets, classic, built in 1906; brick 
and Indiana limestone; architect, George B. Page, 
Philadelphia. Several fine churches of brick or stone 
show Italian and Gothic architecture. The Zion 
Reformed, Gothic, stone, built, 1840, Hamilton Street 
between Sixth and Seventh, is notable for having 
sheltered the Liberty Bell and the Christ Church 
bells, during British occupation of Philadelphia, in 
1777; marked by tablet, placed by the Liberty Bell 
Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution. The 
Rhoads House, 107-109 North Seventh Street, built, 
1762, by a Revolutionary patriot, is the oldest ee ie 
in the city. 

MUHLENBERG COLLEGE with preparatory 
school, is beautifully located at Twenty-sixth and 
Chew Streets, on campus of seventy-two acres; the 
buildings, brick and stone, were built from 1908 to 1915; 
administration building, English Renaissance, archi- 
tects, Ruhl & Lange; contains portraits, including 
one of Dr. Muhlenberg, by Gilbert Stuart; the late 
Peter A. Gross, in 1914, provided by will for the found- 
ing of an art school in Muhlenberg College, and an 
art museum in Allentown. Allentown College for 
Women, Walnut Street between Thirtieth and Thirty- 
first Streets, classic; and the new high school, North 
Seventeenth Street, classic Ionic, are fine buildings. 
At Seventeenth and Chew Streets are the State Hospi- 





ZION REFORMED CHURCH, ALLENTOWN 


Guardian of the Liberty Bell and Christ Church Bells during 
7 the Revolution 





LEHIGH COUNTY 427 


tal, Georgian; brick and Indiana limestone; and the 
Nurses’ Home, memorial to Judge Edward Harvey; 
said to be the best equipped for the purpose in the 
United States, architects, Ruhl & Lange. 

Road from Rittersville to Bethlehem passes Central 
Park, overlooking Lehigh River, and the _ historic 
Geissinger farm, where Solomon Jennings settled in 
1736; he was a participant in the Indian Walk of 1737. 
BETHLEHEM (see Northampton County). State road 
from Allentown to Slatington passes through 
WERNERSVILLE, near where Lynford Lardner built, 
in 1740, a hunting lodge, “Grouse Hall,” and where 
the Jordan Reformed Church was founded in 1752, 
present stone building erected, 1808. Through GUTHS- 
VILLE, Guth homestead still standing, built, 1745, 
through SIEGERSVILLE, on left is Colonel H. C. Trexler’s 
game preserve of 2000 acres, containing buffalo, elk, 
deer, and trout hatchery. To SCHNECKSVILLE, former 
home of Professor Rudy, founder of the Rudy School, 
Paris, in 1865, an International Association of Pro- 
fessors; he was a Fellow of the French Academy. 
Here is Land Spring Park. 

The next village, NEFFS, has an ancient graveyard, 
burial place of many Revolutionary patriots. Then to 
SLATINGTON, heart of the slate region. A chain bridge 
built over the Lehigh River in 1826 leads to LEHIGH 
Gap. Another state road from Allentown goes through 
CATASAUQUA; here, in 1914, was celebrated the seventy- 
fifth anniversary of the successful uniting of the state’s 
two chief resources, the use of ANTHRACITE COAL in the 
IRON FURNACES, by David Thomas from Wales. Coke 
has since replaced anthracite, but the furnaces and the. 


428 LEHiIGH COUNTY 


general method are much as Thomas left them; these 
were the mother furnaces of the Bethlehem Steel Works, 
Cambria Iron Works, Thomas Iron Works at Hocken- 
dauqua, and the stupendous development of the iron 
trade in this country. A private art collection owned 
by D. G. Dery, Esq., comprises an important collection 
of paintings, statuary, bronzes, ivories, Chinese porce- 
lains, and jades. Continue on state road through 
Mickley’s to Egypt. Union Church, Lutheran and 
Reformed, founded, 1734, in log church; present brick 
building erected, 1785. Near by is Deshler’s Fort, 
built, 1760, and the Troxell-Steckel House, stone, built, 
1756. A mile north is tablet, placed by Lehigh County 
Historical Society, marking place where occurred the 
last Indian massacre in this county, of three families in 
1763. 


XLVII 
LEBANON COUNTY 


ORMED February 16, 1813;Scriptural name, from 
}%) the cedar treescovering therangeof mountains on 
northern boundary, ‘‘Cedars of Lebanon”; settled 
by Germans in the east, by the Scotch-Irish in the west. 
Leading industries, agriculture, iron, tobacco. Three 
solid hills of rich, magnetic iron ore have been worked 
for over 170 years, and still seem inexhaustible; they 
require no mining, simply to be quarried; down to 
the present these mines have produced more iron ore 
than any other single iron ore property in the United 
States. In 1737, Peter Grubb became sole owner of 
these ore hills; he built Hopewell forge on Hammer 
Creek, and the large blast furnace was named for 
Cornwall, his ancestral home in England. The prop- 
erty was inherited by his two sons, who were colonels 
in the Revolutionary War; cannon balls and stoves 
were cast here for the Continental Army. In 1798, 
Robert Coleman purchased five-sixths of these ore banks; 
they were near the old road between Harris Ferry and 
Philadelphia, known as the Berks and Dauphin Road. 
Later his grandsons, Robert and G. Dawson Coleman, 
built furnaces on the Union Canal, then the great 
means of transportation; by that. time charcoal fur- 
naces were going out. 

The construction and operation of the Union Canal 
through this county, connecting the Schuylkill River at 
Reading with the Susquehanna at Middletown, was a 

(429) 


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LEBANON COUNTY 


(430) 





THE OLDEST CANAL TUNNEL IN THE UNITED STATES 
North Lebanon 





LEBANON COUNTY 431 


momentous event, with its tunnel 767 feet long, first in 
the United States. Extract: ‘Lebanon, June 15, 1827. 
Last Monday evening, June 11th, the citizens of this 
town and vicinity had the privilege of seeing the first 
boat, the Alpha from Tulpehocken, come up the Union 
Canal and remain at North Lebanon for the night; the 
next morning it continued its journey westward and 
passed through the tunnel; this was the first boat to 
pass through a tract of ground upon which corn and 
potatoes were being grown.”’ 

County seat, LEBANON, population 24,643, on the 
William Penn Highway; settled in 1750. Streets run 
north and south, east and west. Courthouse, at the cor- 
ner of Highth and Cumberland Streets, colonial, brick. 
United States post office, classic, with Doric columns. 
A historic inn, the St. Eitz, built in 1752, was occupied 
by George Washington. Hill Church, colonial, brick; 
in the yard is a monument to Rev. John Casper Stoever, 
first Lutheran minister in Lebanon County, in 1733. 
St. Luke’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic, 
stone, built without a nail, has three memorial win- 
dows, “The Nativity,” by Lamb; others made in Eng- 
land; also fine collection of altar cloths, chasubles, and 
credence cloth made abroad, in filet, of fifteenth century 
design. Soldiers and sailors’ monument in Monu- 
ment Park; tall, fluted column with Ionic capital. 
Lebanon Historical Society has collections of local 
interest. ANNVILLE is seat of Lebanon Valley College, 
founded by the United Brethren in 1865; a school of 
high grade under supervision of that church. 

MrT. GRETNA, a camp ground of 1000 or more acres, 
1000 feet above sea level, was purchased by the state 


432 LEBANON COUNTY 


for mobilization of the state’s National Guard. It will 
accommodate 20,000 men, and has been used for this 
purpose since 1885. The War Department considers 
Mt. Gretna an ideal military camp, sanitary and well 
drained. SCHAEFFERSTOWN, one of the earliest and 
most historic places in this county, laid out in 1744, 
had the first waterworks system in the United States, 
in 1753. Franklin House built in 1750; in the cellar 
there is a remarkable series of carved arches; it served 
as a place of refuge from Indians. Fountain Hill Park 
is here. MYERSTOWN is the seat of Albright College. 
FREDERICKSBURG has the Lick Monument, erected, in 
1881, by James Lick, in memory of his grandfather’s 
services at Valley Forge, and of John Lick, founder of 
Lick Observatory on Mount Hamilton, California. 


XLVIII 
UNION COUNTY 


ORMED March 22, 1813, named for the Union; 
}% chiefly agricultural, is divided by spurs of the 
Alleghenies, known as White Deer, Nittany, 
Buffalo, Paddy’s, and Jack’s mountains, into three val- 
leys; the center, Buffalo Valley,jis one of the garden 
spots in Pennsylvania, formerly home of many Amish 
and Dunkards, good farmers and citizens. 
LEWISBURG, county seat, laid out in 1785; popula- 
tion 3204; named for Ludwig (Lewis) Doerr, who 
purchased the land from Richard Peters of Philadel- 
phia. A rare specimen of conveyancing is deed, lot 
51, in plan of Lewisburg, tracing title from the Creator, 
down through Adam and Eve, to one Flavel Roan, 
recorded at Sunbury, in deed book F, 1793. Finely 
located at mouth of Buffalo Creek, West Branch of the 
Susquehanna, on the great Indian path from Sunbury 
to Muncy, now main highway from Harrisburg to Wil- 
liamsport, and on line of turnpikes leading from Erie 
through Waterford, Meadville, and Franklin to Sus- 
quehanna River. Seat of Bucknell University, incorpo- 
rated in 1846, co-ed, with courses in arts, science, phil- 
osophy, and engineering; the Library and Museum have 
the Jeremiah Gernerd collection of Indian relics, open 
to the public; from the top of the astronomical obser- 
vatory is a fine view. In Lewisburg Cemetery is the 
grave of Colonel John Kelly, distinguished in Indian 
warfare and the Revolution; he died in 1832; his 
(433) 


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UNIon County} 


(434) 


UNION COUNTY 435 


monument, with military emblems, was erected in 1835, 
sculptor, W. Hubbard; also the grave of Mary, widow 
of Captain John Brady, the great Indian fighter, who 
was massacred by Indians and buried near where he 
fell, in Lycoming County. 

One mile west of Lewisburg, from the top of Smoke- 
town Hill, is a fine view of Buffalo Valley across the 
Susquehanna to Muncy Hills and North Mountain. 
Historic places, site of Shikellimy’s old town, a wooded 
crest opposite Milton, four miles north of Lewisburg; 
he was chief of the Oneidas, and father of Logan the 
Mingo chief, place now called Oak Heights. DRIES- 
BACH, five miles west of Lewisburg, German Reformed 
and Lutheran Church, first log building built, 1788, on 
site of present brick church; in burial ground is the 
grave and monument to Samuel Maclay, born, 1741, 
brother of William Maclay; inscription, ‘Samuel 
Maclay, United States Senator 1803-09, Surveyor, 
Farmer, Soldier, Legislator, Statesman. Erected by 
State of Pennsylvania, 1908.’’ Buffalo X Roads, 
Presbyterian Church, first built, 1775, present brick 
building about 1846. 

MIFFLINBURG, the neatest town you ever saw, with 
uniform curbing and walks, population 1744, in heart 
of Buffalo Valley (named for Governor Mifflin); ten 
miles west of Lewisburg, laid out 1792, by Elias Young- 
man. NEW BERLIN, laid out, 1792, by George Long, 
delightfully situated on north bank of Penn’s Creek; 
first county seat; at one time home of Union Seminary, 
Central Pennsylvania College. 


29 


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COLUMBIA COUNTY 


(436) 


XLIX 
COLUMBIA COUNTY 


ORMED March 22, 1818, name explains itself; 
% is in Appalachian Mountain belt; surface quite 
broken, with wonderfully beautiful drives. The 
Catawissa Railroad, noted for its remarkable trestle 
bridges, first one at Mainville, runs through this 
county, crossing the Susquehanna River at Rupert. 
Arable land, mostly red shale and limestone, with 
deposits of iron ore at Bloomsburg, and the anthra- 
cite coal basin at Centralia. Chief industries, manu- 
facturing; the carpet mill here is said to be the second 
largest in the United States. Earliest historical bands 
of Indians, in this county, were the Shawnees and 
Delawares, vassals to the Six Nations; Wyoming Path, 
their route of travel for hunting or war, left Muncy on 
the West Branch, ran up Glade Run, through a gap to 
Fishing Creek and on to Luzerne County, through 
Nescopec Gap, and up North Branch to Wyoming. 
BLOOMSBURG, population 7819, laid out in 1802 by 
Ludwig Eyre, on a bluff on Fishing Creek, became 
county seat in 1846. In 1772, the Shawnee Indians 
had a village between the mouth of the creek and the 
town. James McClure located his farm near the 
same point in 1781; a fort was erected there, built 
by Major Moses VanCampen, now marked, from 
which he led scouting parties. In 1779, VanCampen, 
as quartermaster, accompanied General Sullivan’s ex- 
pedition against Indian towns on the Genessee. There 
(487) 


438 COLUMBIA COUNTY 


is much discussion here about city planning. The 
town lies due north and south, named streets; east 
and west numbered; Second Street being the main 
street, and also forms part of state highway leading 
from Harrisburg to Wilkes-Barre. Courthouse on 
Main Street, Renaissance; contains, it is said, “a very 
beautiful piece of tapestry.” Jail, stone, feudal archi- 
tecture. Soldiers and Sailors’ Monument at the inter- 
section of Main and Market Streets, erected in 1908. 

The Methodist Church, Gothic, stone, has a Tiffany 
window, “Christ Blessing Little Children”; other 
churches that may be mentioned for architecture are 
St. Paul’s Protestant Episcopal and First Presbyterian, 
both Gothic; St. Matthew’s, Evangelical Lutheran, 
Trinty Reformed, and St. Columba’s Roman Catholic, 
colonial. In 1869, this was made the educational 
center of northeast Pennsylvania, with the State 
Normal School, corner-stone laid by Governor Geary 
in 1868. Normal auditorium, colonial; and other 
extensive buildings. CATAWISSA, originally a Quaker 
settlement; scenery fine and picturesque; was laid out 
in 1787 by William Hughes from Berks County; has 
an old Friends’ meeting house. John Hanch was one 
of the first to build an iron furnace here on the Cata- 
wissa in 1816; earlier the Piscatawese or Gangawese 
(Kenhawas) had wigwams here. Fort Jenkins, near 
mouth of Briar Creek, on the Susquehanna, was 
attacked and burned by Indians, 1779-80; a house is 
now on the site of the fort. BERWICK was settled by 
Evan Owen in 1783. Here in 1826 the steamboat 
Susquehanna blew up while ascending the Nescopec 
Falls. Also ground was broken here for the North 
Branch Canal. 


L 
PIKE COUNTY 


ORMED March 26, 1814, named for General Zeb- 

5 ulon Pike, killed in Canada, 1818. When the 

chronicler takes up his pen to write of the glories 

of Pike County in works of art, architecture, and monu- 

ments to the departed “‘Great,”’ in peace or war, he 

is somewhat appalled at the dearth of them; the 

landmarks are what God made, softened and beauti- 
fied by time. 

MILFORD, county seat, population 768, was laid out 
by John Biddis, 1798, in squares, after pattern of 
Philadelphia; it rests high above the Delaware River, 
overlooking a valley of myriad hues that have made 
the town notable for its quaint, umbrageous beauty 
and repose. Pioneer settlers were substantial people 
whose descendants still reside here. It is a popular 
resort for trout fishing in the spring, vacationists in 
the summer, and for deer and bird hunting in the 
fall. Courthouse, brick, French design, built in 1873, 
in center of town, facing the public square; two mor- 
tars from the Civil War are in the front lawn; opposite 
is the jail, built in 1815 as courthouse and jail, made 
of native boulders carefully selected for shades and 
tints; some are opalescent and show brilliantly in 
certain lights; a wooden trout, five foot long, pointing 
the way of the wind, is as old as the building. 

Forestry building, probably handsomest village 
structure of its kind in the United States, erected in 
1900 by the late James Wallace Pinchot, Normandy 

(439) 


SCALE OF MILES 





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PIKE COUNTY 


(440) 


PIKE COUNTY 441 


design; native stone; architects, Hunt & Hunt; in 
niches are busts of Washington and Franklin; mortised 
in alternately are bas-reliefs of F. A. Michaux, 1746- 
1802, author of “Flora Boreali Americana”; General 
Lafayette in 1777; and Bernard Palissy, 1506-89, 
potter, and writer on botany and forestry; sculptor, 
J. F. Weir. The Homestead Library, formerly home 
of Cyrille Pinchot, pure colonial, is in center of town; 
to the rear is Normandie Cottage, an architectural 
gem, replica of a peasant’s home cottage. 

Gray Towers, the Pinchot estate, native stone, repro- 
duction of a baronial castle in the Scottish Highlands, 
crowns the hill about 1000 feet above Milford; the old 
Scotch garden, with high stone wall, is of rare beauty; 
Yale School of Forestry is on the Pinchot estate, within 
echo of the Sawkill Falls. Monument to Tom Quick, 
the avenger of the Delaware, is on his birthplace; 
he killed ninety-nine Indians to avenge the death of 
his father, who was the first settler in Milford, in 
1733. The principal denominations are represented 
in the churches. Old inns are, the Crissman House, 
built, 1810; the Sawkill House, 1823, southern col- 
onial; the Dimmick House, 1828, Horace Greeley 
stopped here in 1840 and later; one of his fondest 
hopes was the cooperative, community of interest 
settlement, known as the “Sylvania Society,” which 
he, with others, organized in 1842 at Greeley; founded 
on the “‘Sacredness of toil,” but the young men, sons 
of affluent parents, who had been sent there by New 
Yorkers who bought stock, did not know how to 
work, nor did they wish to learn, and so they deserted. 

The Bluff House on the banks of the Delaware, built, 
1876, commands a fine view; lawn-of Milford Inn is 


442 PIKE COUNTY 


planted with rare shrubs and trees from all parts of 
the world; the Hermitage has three unique bronze 
sundials, sculptor, Louis F. Ragot; the one depicting 
Father Time with upraised reaper, is beautiful. The 
Hermit’s Glen, so a legend goes, is where an old French 
hermit of profound knowledge and benevolence found 
the water of life after a world-wide search; these 
waters now flow into the lake through two bronze 
masques; two cement giants hold up the dam that 
feeds the lake. Wells Glen lies along the Sawkill 
Brook; rhododendrons, wood flowers, and giant hem- 
locks make it beautiful. Childs Park, back of DiNnc- 
MAN’S FERRY, given in perpetuity for use of the public 
by Mrs. G. W. Childs, is a rugged mountain stretch, 
woodland and meadow; cataracts and deep pools are 
in the trout stream that comes through it. 

BUSHKILL, another haunt for nature lovers, and 
SHOHOLA, all remarkable for beautiful falls, glens, caves. 
In writing of the Delaware Valley, Edmund Clarence 
Stedman says: “But here there is no swooning of the 
languid air, and no seeming always afternoon; it is a 
morning land with every cliff facing the rising sun; the 
mist and languor are in the grain fields far below; the 
hills themselves are of the richest, darkest green; the 
skies are blue and fiery; the air crisp, oxygenated, 
American; it is no place for lotus eating, but for 
drinking water of the fountain of youth, till one feels 
the zest and thrill of a new life that is not unrestful, 
yet as far as may be from the lethargy of mere repose.” 
Among the artists who have painted here are, William 
M. Chase, J. Alden Weir, Swayne Gifford, Carroll 
Beckwith, Henry Satterlee, Charles C. Curran, W. A. 
Rogers, and Benjamin Constant, France. 





SAWKILL FALLS, MILFORD 





LI 
PERRY COUNTY 


ORMED March 12, 1820; named for Com- 
k modore Oliver Hazard Perry; lying between 
the Tuscarora and the Blue Mountains, it 
abounds in beautiful scenery, low hills, rich valleys, 
and abundant streams. Chief industry, agriculture. 

NEW BLOOMFIELD, county seat, settled in 1820: 
streets run due east and west, north and south. Court- 
house faces the center square; colonial with cupola, 
brick; built in 1868; fireproof annex, built, 1892. 
Soldiers’ Monument in the square, memorial to sol- 
diers and sailors of Perry County. Among the good 
church buildings may be noted the Methodist; archi- 
tect, M. A. Kast, Harrisburg. SHERMANSDALE was 
in 1720 an Indian village. At MARYSVILLE a long 
stone arch bridge on the Pennsylvania Railroad line 
crosses over the Susquehanna River from Rockville, 
Dauphin County. The Marysville Civic Club has 
done much for the improvement of the town, and has 
beautified the town square and schoolyard. 

Beyond DUNCANNON, where an immense traffic in 
coal and iron is carried on, one goes through the valley 
of the beautiful Juniata; the scenery along this river, as 
one crosses ridge after ridge of the Alleghenies is most 
picturesque, and the region traversed is full of historical 
reminiscences of the struggles of the early Scotch-Irish 
colonists with the Indians, and of the enterprise of David 
Brainard and other missionaries. At MILLERSTOWN one 
threads the Tuscarora Gap, where the railway, river, 
road, and canal squeeze their way through a narrow 
defile; this lay in the land of the Tuscarora Indians. 

(443) 


SCALE OF MILES 





*) 10 20 30 


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SHERIMANSD San : 
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PERRY COUNTY 


(444) 





JUNIATA COUNTY 
LIT 


ORMED March 2, 1831; name, from the Juniata 
Fk River, was given by the original people who 
lived in this region, and who were obliterated 
by the Iroquois; root of word means “a stone.” 
“Standing Stone” may be regarded as translation of 
“Onojutta-Haga”’ or the Juniata people. A moun- 
tainous country with many fertile valleys, situated 
between the Tuscarora and Blue Ridge Mountains, 
famous for its scenery, with the blue Juniata making 
a wide sweep. The old Pennsylvania canal followed 
its banks throughout its whole course. First settlers 
were mostly Scotch-Irish. 

The old homestead of Francis Innis, one and 
a half stories, stone, east of McCoysville, is still in 
possession of descendants, now used as a spring house; 
his two children, captured by the Indians, were recov- 
ered among those delivered to Colonel Bouquet in 
1764. Another old landmark, eight miles away, is 
the D. B. Esh house, on east Waterford Road, built 
by Mr. Graham in 1802; has an open stairway carved 
by hand. First road laid out in 1768, was from Sher- 
man’s Valley to Kishecoquelas Valley. The historic 
road between Harrisburg and Pittsburgh, through the 
famous Jack’s Narrows, over which stage coaches 
traveled, is now part of the William Penn Highway. 
Sites of Forts Bingham and Patterson will soon be 
marked by the General Thomas Mifflin Chapter, 

(445) 


AINNOD VIVINOE 


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v 





(446) 


JUNIATA COUNTY 447 


Daughters of the American Revolution. Chief indus- 
tries, agriculture and manufactories. 

MIFFLINTOWN, county seat, population 1083, joined 
with its twin borough, MIFFLIN, on Pennsylvania 
Railroad main line, by bridge over the J uniata, was 
laid out in 1791 by John Harris, and named in honor 
of the governor of the state, General Mifflin. Court- 
house in center of town on Main Street, built, 1874, 
brick, Georgian, with Ionic porch and cupola; in the 
yard is a monument, surmounted by a spread eagle, 
to Civil War soldiers from Juniata County, erected in 
1870. The churches are of good architecture, and 
the graded high school is said to be the best between 
Harrisburg and Huntingdon. 


SCALE OF MILES 





MONROE COUNTY 


(448) 


LITI 
MONROE COUNTY 


ORMED April 1, 1836; named in honor of Presi- 
}%) dent James Monroe. The Pocono Mountains 
and long, fertile valleys cover the surface. Chief 
industries, farming, lumber, and manufacturing. In the 
southeast, where the Delaware River turns suddenly at 
Mount Kittatinny, towering 1600 feet above it, is the 
Delaware! Water Gap, with views of great distance ‘rom 
the highest point; near are the Wind Gap and Smith’s 
Gap; William Penn’s famous Walking Land Purchase 
ended near here. The Milford Road, laid out about 
1800, from Easton, leaves Delaware River at Water 
Gap village, thence four miles to Stroudsburg, then to 
Bushkill and beyond. 

STROUDSBURG, county seat; population 5278; first 
settled by Jacob Stroud, laid out at right angles, with 
a liberal plan of broad avenues, and houses set back 
thirty feet from the sidewalk, resembles a New England 
village. Courthouse, built, 1890, of rough stone, with 
high chimneys and belfry, contains portraits of judges; 
with jail and county house forms group facing the public 
Square. Churches are of all principal denominations. 
The National Bank and other buildings are chiefly by 
Lacy & Son, architects. A fine stone and iron bridge, 
built by the state, over Broadhead Creek, connects the 
two boroughs of Stroudsburg and East Stroudsburg; 
it replaced a wooden one, over one hundred years old, 
carried away by the freshet in 1862. In 1755, Indians 

(449) 


450 MONROE COUNTY 


crossed over the old bridge, burned Dansbury Mission 
and other buildings, leaving Stroudsburg without a 
house or resident. Ephraim Collver, who had a grist 
mill there, escaped with his family to the Moravians 
at Bethlehem. 

About 1756, a line of forts were erected to protect 
the frontier settlements; sites are unmarked; Fort 
Norris at Greensweigo, Eldred Township, on road 
toward the Minisinks, eighty feet square, was com- 
pletely stockaded. Fort Hyndshaw, at the mouth of 
Bushkill Creek, was built for the Revolutionary War. 
Fort Hamilton was built in 1757, some one hundred 
feet beyond the Lutheran Church in western part of 
the town. Fort Penn, center of town, was residence of 
Jacob Stroud, who died in 1806; here in 1778, he cared 
for thirty or more persons, fugitives from the Wyoming 
massacre, who crossed the Pocono plateau with great 
toil and distress, later proceeding to their former 
homes in Connecticut. At Locust Ridge in Wyoming 
Valley, a battle was fought called the Pennamite War, 
between Connecticut claimants and Pennsylvanians. 
General Sullivan and his troops, in 1779, laid out a road 
through this county, from Wind Gap to Stoddartsville, 
Wilkes-Barre, and on, continuing an expedition from 
Easton to Genessee Valley, against the Indians; it 
may still be traced almost the entire way. General 
Daniel Brodhead and most of his male relatives from 
Monroe County, were in the Revolutionary War. 

Monroe County was a portion of the lands of the 
Minisinks; there were several Indian villages; the 
Delaware chief, Tedyuscung, born on the Pocono 
Mountains, resided here. It is said that the first white — 


MONROE COUNTY 451 


settlement in Pennsylvania was at Shawnee, by the 
Low Dutch or Hollanders, in “Meenesink,’ many 
years before William Penn’s charter. When Nicholas 
Scull surveyed the land for the province, Samuel Depui 
was here; he purchased land in 1727 from the Minsi 
Indians, now site of Shawnee, an attractive village, 
five miles east of Stroudsburg; and the same property 
later from William Allen, 1733, for whom the oldest 
survey in the county was made. 


30 


SCALE OF MILES 
e) 5 10 








CLARION COUNTY 


(452) 


LIV 
CLARION COUNTY 


ORMED March 11, 1839; named from Clarion 
}%) River. The scenery is beautiful and diversified; 
at the highest point, over 1600 feet above sea 
level, a flagstaff has been erected; from here, on a 
clear day, may be seen the bridge at East Brady 
and four villages in the far distance. Hills and 
valleys are dotted here and there with oil and gas 
wells. There are beautiful views along the Clarion 
and Allegheny rivers and Redbank Creek; the 
scenery at East Brady is notable on account of the 
precipitous hills and winding streams. First white 
settler was Captain Samuel Brady of Revolutionary 
fame; his parents having been killed by Indians, 
he swore vengeance against them. He conducted 
an expedition in 1779 under General Brodhead, 
who had started with a large force from Fort Pitt. 
The Indians had become troublesome along the Alle- 
gheny River; Brady, in advance with scouts, discov- 
ered them on a flat rock at a place which is now East 
Brady; he took possession of a narrow pass, and when 
the Indians arrived, he opened fire, with the main army 
in the rear; escape was impossible, and nearly all were 
killed or taken prisoners. 

In early days this region was called “The Iron City,” 
on account of its many furnaces; forty were in operation 
at one time, they are now cinders and banks of earth. 
The oil production in this county has been wonderful; 

(453) 


454. CLARION COUNTY 


5000 oil wells were drilled in Clarion after 1870, and 
there is still much wealth in it; other industries are 
gas, coal, and agriculture. Two long tunnels are at 
Madison Furnace on the railroad between Clarion and 
Franklin; it is said there are but two longer ones in the 
world. The first bridge was built across Clarion River 
in 1834. The present one, which is of fine construction, 
is the third. 

CLARION, population, 2,798, made county seat in 
1840; is finely located on a hill 1500 feet above sea ~ 
level, on the Bellefonte and Meadville Turnpike. Pub- 
lic buildings face the park; Courthouse, third recon- 
struction, completed in 1882, Georgian; architect, Mr. 
Betts; contains portraits of judges. Jail, Norman 
architecture, stone with brick front, was built in 1874. 
Connected with the State Normal School is a stone 
chapel containing busts of Abraham Lincoln and Henry 
W. Longfellow; also Navaree Hall, Spanish architec- 
ture, stone, brick, and concrete; architects, Allison & 
Allison, Pittsburgh. 

Among the six churches are the Methodist and Pres- 
byterian, stone, Roman architecture. The Woman’s 
Club has accomplished much for civic improvement, 
changing the cemetery from an unsightly spot to a 
place of beauty, planting the park with shrubbery and 
flower beds, and starting a free public library; in the 
park is a monument to Civil War soldiers. At Fox- 
BURG is a fine free, memorial library; colonial; native 
sandstone; architect, Arthur H. Brockie, Philadelphia. 
In the ‘Memorial Church of Our Father,” native sand- 
stone; architect, James Sims, Philadelphia; is a paint- 
ing by Edwin Howland Blashfield, “The Angel of the 
Resurrection.” 


LV 
CLINTON COUNTY 


ORMED June 21, 1839; named for DeWitt 
}%) Clinton. Has superb scenic beauty; lofty 
mountains, rolling hills, and highly productive 
valleys border the West Branch of the Susquehanna 
River. About one-fourth is State Forest Reserve 
of mountainous wilderness, where large and small 
game, trout, and other fish abound. Chief indus- 
tries are in vast deposit of commercial clay, from 
which is made fire, building and paving brick, tile 
sewer pipe, and concrete blocks; and a large chemical 
plant, very important in war chemicals; agriculture, 
including tobacco growing; several creameries and a 
large milk condensery. ie 
Lock HAVEN, with advance road signs, county seat; 
population 8559. Through the efforts of the city 
government, Board of Trade, and Women’s Civic Club, 
John Nolen, of Cambridge, Massachusetts, was engaged 
to prepare a formal “City Plan” for the future growth 
and development of the city. This plan includes no 
radical changes or extravagant improvements, but 
conforms to the requirements of a small community. 
Embraces simple, but definite plans for the esthetic 
improvement of the fronts of the Susquehanna and 
Bald Eagle Rivers, between which Lock Haven is 
situated. The proper location and grouping of future 
public buildings, with a civic center at Monument 
Place, the intersection of the two main thoroughfares. 
(455) 


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4, 


AINNOD NOLNITO 





(456) 





THE SUSQUEHANNA TRAIL 
River front of Lock Haven 





CLINTON COUNTY 457 


The installation of modern street lighting systems with 
underground wires. And the gradual improvements in 
store fronts and business places. 

It calls for the establishment of drives, playgrounds, 
and parks; the acquiring of a woodland reservation, 
adjoining Highland Cemetery, at the edge of the town, 
for a public park; and purchase of an outlying moun- 
tain top for future recreation. Much of the plan has 
been carried out. A unique and beautiful parkway 
has been made by utilizing the abandoned basin of the 
old canal, which cut through the heart of Lock Haven; 
it had become a dump heap, but under 
A the Nolen plan was filled, and has blos- 

“=—7 somed into one of the show places of 
the city, with flower beds, lawn, trees, 
and special landscape garden effect at 
each end. The river front has been 
made into a park, at entrance to the 
bridge, over the Susquehanna, a modern 
structure built by the state, which re- 
placed a picturesque, covered bridge built, 
1855, about 800 feet long; it includes the old toll 
house, pronounced by Mr. Nolen a valuable asset 
for the city. A smaller, quaint, old covered wood 
bridge, same period, about four miles from Lock Haven, 
spans Bald Eagle stream, on Bald Eagle Valley Road; 
near is the Clinton “Country Club” house, artistically 
built of cobblestones, architect, Lester Kintzing, 
New York. 

The Courthouse, red brick and brownstone, sur- 
mounted by two dome-shaped towers, built in 1869, on 
site of an earlier one built, 1842, is on Water Street 





458 CLINTON COUNTY 


facing the river. On the river front is a stone marker, 
inscription, “Located in the stockade of Fort Reed, 
built, 1775, for defense against the Indians.” On the 
river road, leading to Williamsport, near McElhattan, 
is site of Fort Horn, stone marker, both placed by the 
Hugh White Chapter, D. A. R., to mark the last two, 
of the trail of stockade fortifications, built along the 
river in defense of the pioneer settlers. Where Lock 
Haven stands was original site of several Indian vil- 
lages; burial places; and marked one of their great 
thoroughfares from the north to! the coast. Granite 
monument to 1988 soldiers of Clinton County in the 
Civil War is in center of city. 

St. Paul’s Protestant Episcopal Church, stone, 
Gothic, with spire, built, 1852, on Main Street, has 
memorial windows by Tiffany and Lamb, New York, 
and chancel window from England. The Immaculate 
Conception, Roman Catholic Church, built, 1905, and 
rectory, 1915, Gothic, with two towers, Hummelstone 
brownstone, architect, J. A. Dempwolf, York, Pa., 
corner of Water and Third Streets, is on site of an 
earlier church, built in 1857, dedicated by Rev. John C. 
Gilligan, pioneer missionary. Central State Normal 
School, on ground given by Philip Price of Philadel- 
phia, founded, 1871, includes twelve buildings, on 
thirty-two acres of land, commanding extended view; 
the main building was erected in 1890, architect, 
A. 8. Wagner, Williamsport; art course includes the 
theory and practice of teaching art; industrial art and 
lectures on art history; reproductions of paintings, and 
Kuropean architecture, also replicas of sculpture, are 
placed about the buildings. 


CLINTON COUNTY 4.59 


Ross Memorial Free Library, on Main Street, opened, 
1910, further endowed by the late Wilson Kistler, sends 
traveling libraries to rural schools; contains painting 
by E. H. Shearer, “Ole Bull’s Castle in Potter Go.83 
a noteworthy collection of North American Indian 
relics, 10,000 pieces, owned by Dr. T. B. Stewart, has 
been offered as a loan to this library, the collection is 
especially rich in local relics of domestic life and imple- 
ments of war. “The Fallon House,” built in 1855, 
still in excellent condition, is said to have been built 
with funds of Queen Isabella II, of Spain, who invested 
largely of her private fortune in Pennsylvania, for a 
retreat in case of revolution. In Highland Cemetery 
is an exact reproduction of the St. Martin’s Cross, 
16 feet 8 inches high, on the Island of Iona, off the 
coast of Scotland, erected in 1914, in memory of Samuel 
Richard Peale. 





KLNNOQ DNIWOAM 


va, 4- 


SAUW SO J1VOS 






(460) 


LVI 
WYOMING COUNTY 


ORMED April 4, 1842; named from the Wyo- 
} ming tribe of Indians who occupied the land 

when the white settlers came: name signifies 
extensive flats. 

Lies in the northern opening of the wonderful Wyo- 
ming Valley, celebrated for its fertility and beauty; 
surface diversified by numerous spurs of the Appa- 
lachian system, which tower into lofty peaks; Mount 
Solecca, 1000 feet above the river; Mount Chodano, 
nearly opposite, about the same height; Mount 
Metchasaung, still higher, at La Grange. Several 
lakes are well stocked with fish; the largest, Lake 
Cary, three miles long, one mile wide, is surrounded 
by lofty pines and hemlocks. Glen Moneypenny, 
six miles below Tunkhannock, is a wildly picturesque 
location; many such are to be found among the 
mountains of this country. 

This beautiful setting was the scene of Indian plot- 
tings that culminated in the Wyoming Massacre in 
1778 (see Luzerne County). The following year 
General Sullivan’s army passed through this region, 
on march to subdue the Six Nations, and encamped on 
the shore of the Susquehanna River at Tunkhannock, 
Where the tannery now stands. Forty years ago 
passenger pigeons were so plentiful that when they 
flew across a town in dense flocks, they obscured the 
sun; one colony occupied a strip of woodland in 

(461) 


462 WYOMING COUNTY 


Wyoming County, seven miles long by three miles 
wide; Alexander Wilson wrote of counting ninety 
nests in a single tree. Chief industries, agriculture 
and manufacturing. 

TUNKHANNOCK, county seat; population 1736, first 
called Putnam, after General Israel Putnam of Revo- 
lutionary War; settled, 1790; was incorporated 1841. 
Lies due north and south, east and west. Courthouse 
on Courthouse Square has two marble tablets in the 
corridor, with names of Revolutionary War soldiers 
buried within the limits of Wyoming County, placed 
by Tunkhannock Chapter, Daughters of the American 
Revolution. The Soldiers’ Monument is on the same 
grounds. Among the churches of different denomi- 
nations, the Methodist may be mentioned for Gothic 
architecture. At FACTORYVILLE is the Keystone 
Academy. Crossing Tunkhannock Creek, near Nich- 
olson, is the Tunkhannock Viaduct, said to be the 
largest concrete bridge in the world, 2375 feet long, 
240 feet high, above water level; height from bedrock 
300 feet; carries the double tracks of the main line of 
the Lackawanna Railroad from mountain to mountain 
across the valley. 


LVII 


CARBON COUNTY 


ORMED March 13, 1843; named for its coal 
}%) deposits; coal was first discovered by Philip Ginter 
in 1791, on top of Sharp Mountain, now town 

of Summit Hill, nine miles southwest of Mauch Chunk. 
In 1818 the Lehigh Navigation Company and the 
Lehigh Coal Company were formed; under skilful 
management the almost insuperable obstacles in the 
way of transportation were overcome; boats 18 feet 
wide by 25 feet long, two or more hinged together, 
were floated by artificial freshets on the Lehigh; owing 
to the great fall in the river and consequent rapidity 
of its motion, dams were constructed near Mauch 
Chunk, with sluice gates, invented by Josiah White, 
a manager of the Navigation Company; they were 
the first on record used permanently; Lehigh coal is 
the hardest known anthracite in the world. Other 
mineral productions are iron, slate, and mineral 
paint. Wire rope was first invented in Mauch Chunk. 
The first settlers were Moravian missionaries who, in 
1746, purchased 200 acres on the north side of Mahon- 
ing Creek above its mouth, for converted Mohican 
Indians; each Indian family possessed their own lot 
of ground and Gnadenhiitten became a town; the 
church stood in the valley, with the Indian houses 
forming a crescent on one side, on the other side was 
the missionary’s house and burial ground. The road 
to Wyoming lay through the settlement, being the 

(463) 


SCALE OF MILES 


RU ZAB RN ies 


OCC} 
reat a QUE ve 


iS eH Es 0 
ON ace 


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CARBON COUNTY 


(464) 


CARBON COUNTY 465 


famous Warrior’s Path over Nescopeec Mountain. In 
August all partook of their own first fruits in a love 
feast. Christian Ranch and Martin Mack were the 
first missionaries residing here; several parts of 
Scripture had been translated into the Mohican lan- 
guage; the Holy Communion was administered every 
month, the Indians calling that “The Great Day.” 
In 1749 Bishop (Baron) John de Watterville went to 
Gnadenhiitten and laid the foundation of a large 
church; Indian congregation 500 persons. After 
Braddock’s defeat in 1755 the whole frontier was open 
to the savage foe; suddenly in 1757, the mission house 
on the Mahoning was attacked and burnt by French 
and Indians, and many inhabitants were murdered; a 
broad marble slab, placed there in 1788, near LEHIGH- 
TON, marks the grave of those massacred. 

In 1756 Benjamin Franklin was authorized by the 
Provincial Government to erect forts on the Lehigh; one 
opposite Gnadenhiitten was named Fort Allen, for 
William Allen, the Chief Justice. At WEISSPORT, in the 
rear of the “Fort Allen House’”’ may be seen the well 
dug under Franklin’s supervision; it was within the 
inclosure of the fort and supplied the soldiers with 
water. Weissport was settled by Colonel Jacob 
Weiss, Quartermaster General in the Revolutionary 
Army, on site of Fort Allen. Municipal parks are at 
Lehighton and Weissport, given by Jacob Weiss. 
Also at Lehighton is All Saints’ Chapel, early English 
Gothic. . 

In 1780 Andrew Montour, leader of an Indian party, 
captured the Gilbert family, twelve persons, and took 
them over Mauch Chunk and Broad Mountains into 


466 CARBON COUNTY 


the Nescopec path, across Quakake Creek to Mahoning 
Mountain and over wild and rugged country to Canada; 
eventually they were all redeemed at Montreal, in 1782, 
and returned to Byberry. A view of great scenic beauty 
is from Prospect Rock, over the Nescopec Valley; 
Cloud Point, frequently covered by vapor, may be 
seen: near is Glen Thomas with a picturesque Amber 
Cascade, named for David Thomas, pioneer in the 
iron trade. GLEN ONOKO, two miles above Mauch 
Chunk, with its wild beauty, total ascent over 900 
feet, forms the channel for the clear stream which 
flows over innumerable cascades to the Lehigh; the 
most noticeable are “Chameleon Falls,’’ fifty feet 
high, and “Onoko Falls,” ninety feet high, with over- 
hanging rocks, covered with moss and ferns. 

MaucH CHUNK, county seat, population 3666; 
Indian name means Bear Mountain; first settled in 
1815; has one principal street, following the tortuous 
course of Mauch Chunk Creek as it winds through a 
narrow gorge between three high, steep, and rocky 
mountains, averaging 850 feet above the town. The 
important buildings are directly on this street. Court- 
house, Norman, brownstone, quarried at Rockport, 
Carbon County; built in 1894. Jail, where some of 
the Molly Maguires were executed. The Dimmick 
Memorial Library, built in 1890, brick. Churches 
here and in East Mauch Chunk are unusually hand- 
some. St. Mark’s Protestant Episcopal, Gothic, 
stone, has memorial windows by J. & R. Lamb; the 
reredos is very beautiful. First Presbyterian, colonial, 
brick, has a memorial window by John LaFarge, and 
one by Tiffany. The Immaculate Conception, Roman 





ST. MARK’S P. EK. CHURCH, MAUCH CHUNK 
This church is built on solid rock 





CARBON COUNTY 467 


Catholic, also has fine stained-glass windows. St. 
Paul’s Methodist Episcopal is the oldest church in 
the town. at 

The Woman’s Clubs are seeking to improve con- 
ditions, sanitary and scenic; to widen the life of the 
town and in every way make it more in unison with 
its natural surroundings. In the limited space of 
the narrow valley, land is too precious to be used 
except for buildings, but the hills are so magnificent 
that they look to them for the necessary beauty; 
Flagstaff Park has natural effect. The first railroad 
in Carbon County and one of the oldest in the United 
States, is the famous SWITCHBACK, a gravity road, 
extending from Mauch Chunk to Summit HI, 
opened in 1832, for bringing coal from the mines to 
the canal; used now only for pleasure; a double track 
is laid to the summit of Mount Pisgah, 2322 feet 
distant from the foot, at an angle of twenty degrees, 
with elevation about 900 feet above the river. Scene 
from the top is superb, with a succession of mountain 
ridges rising, range after range, with distant view of 
Lehigh Water Gap, and farther to Schooley’s 
Mountain in New Jersey. The principal attraction 
at Summit Hill is the burning mine, discovered to be 
on fire in 1859. General Craig of Revolutionary 
fame resided here. 


31 


Ss 


ALNNOO WIG 





7IIwWwW so WIS 





(468) 


LVIII 
ELK COUNTY 


ORMED April 18, 1848; possesses everywhere 
) great scenic beauty; a large herd of elk, last- 

known herd of the Black Forest, still existed, for 
which the county was named; the last elk was killed 
in 1857. The Black Forest formerly covered a vast area 
of northwest Pennsylvania, the deep green of the hem- 
lock giving a mystery of blackness; here many varieties 
of large and small animals abounded. Climate and 
geological formation differ from surrounding counties 
in ratio of altitude; the growing season is usually two 
or threeweeks later on account of late frosts; agriculture 
is now chief industry. Bituminous coal was discovered 
by “Blind Mike”’on Priest’s Land at St. Mary’s in 1853, 
and is continuously worked. Natural gas, oil, high- 
grade clays, and shale are other mineral resources. 
Jimanandy Park, 3600 acres of almost virgin forest, 
stocked with deer; through which a trout run flows, is 
the property of heirs of Senator James K. P. Hall, and 
Honorable Andrew Kaul; permission to inspect the 
park may be obtained at office of J. R. P. Hall at St. 
Mary’s. 

RIDGWAY, county seat, laid out in 1843 and named 
for Jacob Ridgway, Philadelphia, who was United 
States Consul at Antwerp; population 6037. Court- 
house, center of town, built in 1872, brick, with clock 
tower, surmounted by a large statue of Justice; stands 
in a well-kept park with jail in the rear. Main Street, 

(469) 


470 ELK COUNTY 


very wide, paved with brick, has many fine residences. 
Forest Lawn Cemetery contains the Hall and Hyde 
family mausoleums and a large community mausoleum 
built in 1912. Sr. Mary’s, ten miles from Ridgway, 
along the state road through beautiful scenery, is 
largest town in the county, population 6967; known 
as the Summit City, on a high plateau, altitude 1660 
to 1950 feet. Has wide streets paved with brick, 
and is surrounded by a fertile farming country. The 
Charles A. Luke Memorial Park, four acres, acquired 
by gift in 1878 for the public, was laid out by George 
C. Miller, landscape gardener of Boston, Massachu- 
setts, in 1914, through St. Mary’s Village Association. 

St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, oldest and larg- 
est in the county, built in the fifties by the German 
Catholic colonists, from plans made by the late Ignatius 
Garner, native undressed sandstone, recently dressed 
with cement, spoiling its rusticity. In St. Mary’s 
Cemetery are buried Baron Van Essel and many war 
veterans. Large German Benedictine College and Con- 
vent conducted by the Sisters of St. Benedict, estab- 
lished, 1862, is one of the three schools in America which 
teach the Della Sade system of voice culture, intro- 
duced by the venerable Sister Marie who learned the 
system of the great Italian master. In the Convent is 
said to be an original Van Dyke painting. Sacred 
Heart Church, native sandstone, Gothic. The Shiloh 
Presbyterian Church is an ecclesiastical building of 
native sandstone. At St. Mary’s and Kersey Road is 
a small chapel, wood, old German design, built in 1870 
by the late George Decker, in fulfillment of a vow; 
prayer service is held here at stated times. 


ELK COUNTY 471 


Going east from Kersey, road leads through “The 
Barrens,” a sandy rocky stretch of land denuded of 
vegetation by forest fires, on the old Bellefonte Pike. 
Scenery is wonderful toward Mount ZIon, where there 
is a typical country church and burial ground. At 
Mount Zion corner, the road takes three courses miete 
leads to BYRNEDALE with its fifty coke ovens, coal 
tipples, and washer plant. WILCOX, in northern part 
of county, lying in the famous gas belt of Elk County, 
has large glass factory. A few miles back is TAMBINE; 
near here President Grant, guest of General Thomas 
Kane, spent a day fishing for trout. From Wilcox, 
along the Big Level Road, is Rasselas; here Captain 
(later General) Kane pinned a buck’s tail on the hat 
of Hiram Woodruff, first member recruited for the 
Bucktail Regiment. On the old Milesburg and Cler- 
mont Pike, William C. Walsh carried the first mail 
through this section in 1828. 


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BLAIR COUNTY 


(472) 


Abie 
BLAIR COUNTY 


ORMED February 26, 1846; named for Honor- 
H able John Blair, native of this county,and public- 
spirited citizen; in 1820, he laid out, and was 
President of the Huntingdon, Cambria and Indiana 
Turnpike, first in this section. Blair County lies in the 
beautiful Juniata Valley, settled by Scotch-Irish, 
English, and Germans; much of the soil is very fertile. 
Chief industries, agriculture, coal mining, and manu- 
facturing. It is the center of a network of roads, 
mostly builtas turnpikes from 1830-50; now stateroads. 
TYRONE, altitude 692 feet above sea level, popu- 
lation 9084; outlet for important bituminous coal 
products; lies in a basin formed by the base line of 
old Tussey, a famous mountain, and the bold ridge 
known as Bald Eagle. The home of Captain John 
Logan, eldest son of Shikellamy, was at mouth of 
Bald Eagle Creek; second son, James Logan, the 
Mingo chief, named for Secretary Logan of German- 
town, went west to the Ohio; his son (Tod-kah- 
dohs) married a daughter of Chief Cornplanter. 
About three miles east from Tyrone is the Sinking 
Valley, named from the Sinking Creek, an under- 
ground watercourse; near is BIRMINGHAM, with a 
pleasure ground, where there are one hundred springs 
and a large cave; a school for girls is here. 
ALTOONA, population 60,331; altitude 1171 feet 
above sea level; founded by the Pennsylvania Rail- 
(478) 


474 BLAIR COUNTY 


road in 1850, consists almost entirely of their shops and 
workmen’s houses. St: Luke’s Protestant Episcopal 
Church, native stone, first built in 1858; second build- 
ing in 1881, using the same stone; Gothic, F. C. With- 
ers, New York, architect; has an English window, also 
one by Tiffany, “The Resurrection,” exhibited in 
Paris in 1900; memorial to Almet E. Read, Esq.; brick 
rectory and school, gift of General John Watts De 
Peyster, as memorial to his daughter, first school for 
advanced education in Altoona. 

In the Logan House, built, 1854, by the Pennsylvania 
Railroad, was held the conference of the loyal war 
governors in 1862, namely, A. G. Curtin, Pennsylvania; 
John A. Andrew, Massachusetts; Richard Yates, 
Illinois; Israel Washburn, Jr., Maine; Edward Solo- 
mon, Wisconsin; Samuel J. Kirkwood, Iowa; O. P. 
Morton (by D. G. Ross, his representative), Indiana; 
William Sprague, Rhode Island; F. H. Pierpont, 
Virginia; David Tod, Ohio; N.S. Berry, New Hamp- 
shire; Austin Blair, Michigan; to devise ways and 
means for codperating with President Lincoln in sup- 
pressing the Rebellion. King Edward VII, as Prince 
of Wales, stopped here. On the William Penn High- 
way, formerly an old portage road, is site of an early 
historic hotel, “‘Fountain Inn,” mentioned by Dickens 
in ‘‘American Notes”; here William Henry Harrison 
stopped overnight on his way to Washington in 1841, 
to be inaugurated President of the United States; 
Henry Clay and Jenny Lind also stopped here. 

Near junction of Sugar Run with Burgoon’s Run, 
three miles south of Altoona, in 1781, Indians killed a 
number of militiamen from Fetter’s Fort, built in 


BLAIR COUNTY AT5 


1775, by firing on them from ambush. A monument 
dedicated in 1909, marks the place where the wife of 
Matthew Dean and three of their children were killed 
by Indians in 1788, while he and the: other children 
were working in the fields. In Blair County are also 
sites of Fort Roberdeau, built, 1778, and Fort Lowry, 
1779, unmarked. Magnificent views from Nopsono- 
nock, at summit of the Alleghenies, Prospect Hill, 
and Kittanning Point, where the Pennsylvania Rail- 
road is carried around the famous Horseshoe Curve. 
A little farther, the Pennsylvania Railroad passes 
through a tunnel two-thirds of a mile long, 2160 feet 
above sea level. 

Lakemont Park is a noted place of scenic beauty 
near HOLLIDAYSBURG, population 4071, county seat, 
laid out in 1820; named for James Adam Holliday, 
who lived here prior to the Revolution. Courthouse, 
Romanesque; built 1876-77; remodeled and enlarged 
in 1906; on grounds are jail, feudal style, architect, 
John Haviland, and a Soldiers’ Monument. High- 
land Hall, stone, colonial doorway, with beautiful 
grounds, is now Miss Cowles’ school for girls. Entrance 
to old Presbyterian Cemetery is a Norman gate, 
designed by Price J. McLanahan, Philadelphia, hewn 
timbers, held in place by bolts of wood, supporting 
a red tiled roof. Main street is part of the old turn- 
pike between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, shaded 
by beautiful old trees; here in days of the canal, in 
1834, boats met the Portage Railroad at foot of the 
Alleghenies; freight and passengers were carried 
over the mountain by inclined planes and stationary 
engines; by this means travel from eastern Penn- 


476 BLAIR COUNTY 


sylvania was continued through the Ohio River to 
the Mississippi. Charles Dickens took the trip over 
the mountain in 1842; the Allegheny Portage Railroad 
in boldness of design and difficulty of execution com- 
pared well with the passes of the Simplon and Mont 
Cenis. “Ant Hill’’ woods, almost within town limits, 
were said to be the only hills of the kind in this coun- 
try; they were written up in the Century magazine 
by Dr. McCook; a hill was taken to the Academy of 
Natural Sciences, Philadelphia; they are now level 
with the ground, through vibration of the trolley. 
Less than a mile from town are “Chimney Rocks,” 
famous council chamber of the Indians; with view 
of unsurpassed beauty of the Juniata Valley, old 
Portage Road, and Allegheny Mountains. On western 
slope, much of the Portage Road is used for the high- 
way; the Monumental Arch is still standing. 


LX 


SULLIVAN COUNTY 


ORMED March 15, 1847, named for General 
HL John Sullivan; is noted for picturesque scenery, 
mountains, valleys, lakes, streams and water- 

falls, forests, and distant views. Either the scenic 
Williamsport and North Branch Railroad or the 
state highway, that parallel each other and enter 
the county near Muncy Valley, lead to beautiful 
EKaglesmere, 1900 feet above sea; on Lewis Lake, one 
and a half miles long, one-half mile wide; depth never 
definitely determined, fed by subterranean waters. 
About the shore, tree bound, with luxuriant growth of 
rhododendron and laurel, and rock faced to deep water, 
- there are lovely nooks, and a bathing beach of white 
sand at the northern end. Passing from EKaglesmere 
through “Celestia,” where the lands were deeded in 
1864, by Peter E. Armstrong and wife, to ‘ ‘Almighty 
God”’—the deed may beseen at the county courthouse— 
one comes to LAPORTE, population 175; highest and 
smallest county seat in Pennsylvania, 2000 feet above 
sea level, with its natural beauties, including “Lake 
Mokoma,”’ is also an attractive summer resort. It was 
laid out in 1850, by Michael Meylert, who owned the 
land and built the first courthouse; present building, 
facing the park, is Romanesque; brick; beautiful 
Lombardy poplar trees are in the yard. Within the 
last twelve years advanced civilization has penetrated 
into Sullivan County in good state highways, rural mail 

(477) 


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(478) 


SULLIVAN COUNTY 479 


routes, telephones, and several borough and township 
high schools. The streets of LaPorte are wide and well 
kept, and the park is in care of the Ladies’ Village 
Improvement Society. 

At the top of the mountain, on the road toward 
Sonestown, is ‘‘Fiester’s View,” where the deep valley 
of Muncy Creek, walled on the east by the towering 
North Mountain, 3000 feet above tide, near Nord- 
mont, is beautiful beyond description. At the junction 
of the Big and Little Loyalsock Creeks is the pretty 
little town of FoRKSVILLE. Dr. Priestly purchased 
a large tract of land about here, laid out roads, and 
made many improvements. Four miles distant, on the 
state highway toward Hillsgrove, on Kings Creek, is 
Lincoln Falls, a waterfall about 30 feet in height at 
the head of a gorge with perpendicular walls of rock, 
varying from 50 to 80 feet in height. A few deer, quite 
a number of bear, foxes, rabbits, and squirrels are in 
this county; a state game preserve is in the southeast 
near Jamison City. There are some good trout streams, 
and the lakes are well stocked with fish. The most 
valuable industry is coal from the Bernice coal fields 
in the east. The production of hemlock tanned sole 
leather is important. Farm products and dairying are 
general. 





OD NOSAas4anS~ 


AINNOD ISHUOT 





(480) 


LXI 
FOREST COUNTY 


ORMED April 11, 1848: named for its great 
HK variety of timber; hemlock and pine, east; dense 

forests of deciduous trees west along the Allegheny 
River. Game large and small abounds; streams are 
full of brook trout. Atmosphere is fragrant with 
health-giving ozone, strengthening the weak and restor- 
ing those affected with lung trouble. Chief industry 
is lumbering; in western part agriculture, and the 
growing of fine apples. 

David Zeisberger, first white man in Forest County, 
came in 1767, Moravian missionary to the Monseys, 
a wild and warlike tribe; he stayed two years in their 
three villages, Goshgoshunk (Holeman’s Flats), Sa-que- 
lin-get, Place of Council (Tionesta) and La-hun-ichan- 
nock, Meeting of the Waters (East Hickory), and 
migrated with them to Fort Pitt. After Monseys, 
came the Senecas under Cornplanter, in 1770. First 
settler Cyrus Blood, surveyor, who cleared land for 
Marienville, first county seat, and improved it. ‘The 
Big Level,” name of old state road, 1728 feet above 
sea, follows northeast from Marienville to Mount 
Jewett, McKean County, roadbed compact and solid, 
100 feet wide, was first made in Cyrus Blood’s time. 
On this road is Beaver Meadows, formerly a dam built 
by beavers, which backed water over an area one and 
one-quarter miles long by one-eighth mile wide; dam 
four and one-half feet high. 

(481) 


482 7 FOREST COUNTY 


Along the Guitonville road toward Marienville, on a 
high plateau with two miles of straight, natural, firm 
roadbed, is Job’s Pinnacle, from which is a fine distant 
view of Tionesta Valley; a mile farther, Pisgah, also 
a pinnacle, is on Salmon Creek Hill; the whole hill is 
composed of magnetic iron ore, on a sandstone founda- 
tion, above shale and slate stratification ; in surveying, 
the magnetic attraction is so great the needle is para- 
lyzed; it isa mass of rocks; another magnetic iron ore 
hill is Bald Bluff, where lightning strikes freely. Stony 
Point, back of Salmon Creek Hill, near Newtown Mills, 
is the highest land; scenery about here is so beautiful at 
the mouth of Salmon Creek, that Erion Williams, the 
early surveyor, called it Eden revived. Beautiful scen- 
ery is along the State road parallel with the Sheffield & 
Tionesta Railroad, crossing a large iron bridge over 
Tionesta Creek at Nebraska, two miles farther, over 
another iron bridge, and three miles to Ross Run. 
This land produces oil and gas in good quantities. 

At Kellettville, on the Tionesta, pieces of ancient 
pottery have been exhumed, showing that this was the 
home of a race older than the Indians, who had not 
made pottery in this section; three miles above 
Kellettville is a long sloping rock in the bed of Tionesta 
Creek, “Panther Rock,” where Ebenezer Kingsley, a 
pioneer hunter, shot many cougars; state paid twenty 
dollars bounty for a panther, twelve dollars for a wolf. 
Picturesque falls are on Blue Jay Creek; near its 
mouth is Rocky City, on Tionesta Creek, a vast 
ageregation of rocks like tall towers, with grand 
scenery, nearly opposite is a prehistoric square hole 
forty feet deep, no record of its formation. 


FOREST COUNTY 483 


TIONESTA, population 642, county seat, incorporated, 
1852. Principal buildings, Courthouse on high ground 
in public square of two acres, brick, built 1870, architect, 
Keene Vaughn, contains proof copy of “Zeisberger 
preaching to the Indians in Forest County in 1677,” 
engraved by John Sartain, with a volume of Zeisberger’s 
Life and Notes, a gift from the Pennsylvania Historical 
Society, Philadelphia; and a receipt signed by David 
Zeisberger, framed in wood of the wild cherry tree 
under which, legend says, he originally preached; also 
portraits of prominent men of Forest County. Jail, 
brick and stone, in courthouse ground, built by Van 
Dorn Prison Company, Cleveland, Ohio, in 1895. The 
Forest County National Bank, native stone, Roman- 
esque, built, 1899, architect, C. M. Robinson, Altoona. 
Presbyterian Church, brick, 1910, on site of old wooden 
church, built, 1851; and Methodist Church, brownstone, 
built, 1909; both contain memorial windows. 


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LAWRENCE COUNTY 


(484) 


LXII 
LAWRENCE COUNTY 


ORMED March 20, 1849; named for Perry’s 

flagship, in the Battle of Lake Erie, which was 

named in honor of Captain James Lawrence, 
United States Navy. Lawrence was mortally wounded 
in the War of 1812, on the frigate Chesapeake, against 
the British ship Shannon; as he was carried below he 
said: “Don’t give up the ship.” Chiefly settled by 
Scotch-Irish. The old canal to Lake Erie, built in 1833, 
went through center of the county, and did much to 
develop the resources—bituminous coal, iron ore, and 
limestone. Chief industries, manufactories and agri- 
culture. Many beautiful drives are all through the 
county in every direction. 

The Moravian missionaries, David Zeisberger and 
Gottlob Senseman, were the first white men who dwelt 
here, long before the county was formed; they migrated 
with the Indians from Bradford County, through 
Forest County, and were the greatest missionary power 
to them. They were visited by Glikkikin, a renowned 
warrior of great eloquence, who with his escort, pur- 
posely tried to refute the doctrines of Christianity; 
they were received by Anthony, a native convert, who 
treated them courteously and made such an impressive 
speech on Christian doctrine that he astonished the 
visitors; Zeisberger, coming in then, confirmed his 
words, and Glikkikin, instead of delivering his speech, 
replied: “I have nothing tosay. I believe your words.” 

(486) 


486 LAWRENCE COUNTY 


On return to his town, he advised the savages to go 
hear the Gospel; he made them another visit, in- 
formed them that he had determined to embrace Chris- 
tianity, and invited them, in the name of his chief, Pac- 
kauke, to settle on land on Beaver River, near his 
town Kaskaskiink, now New Castle; this land was to 
be for the exclusive use of the mission. The offer was 
accepted, and on April 17, 1770, they left Oil Creek 
in fifteen canoes; in three days they reached Fort 
Pitt, proceeded down the Ohio to Beaver River, and 
ascended that river to the locality given, now Moravia, 
passing an Indian village, near present Newport, of 
women, all single and pledged never to marry. 

When encamped, they sent an embassy, Zeisberger, 
and Abraham, a native, to Packauke, who were received 
by the chief at his own house; he gave them welcome 
and pledged protection; they built houses, cleared 
land, planted, and prepared for winter. The Indians 
began to visit them, the Monseys from Goshgoshiink 
were the first to cast their lot with the Christian 
Indians; Glikkikin soon came and became a Christian 
force. Finally the Monseys adopted Zeisberger into 
their tribe; the ceremony took place at Kaskasktink; 
they invested him with all the rights and privileges of 
a Monsey; this proved a complete triumph and was 
the source of much good influence among Indians. 
White settlers began to come after Wayne’s Treaty of 
Greenville, in 1795. 

NEW CASTLE, county seat, incorporated as a city 
in 1869, population 44,938, was laid out, at the junction 
of the Shenango, Neshannock, and Mahoning Rivers, 
where they form the Beaver River, in 1798, by John 


LAWRENCE COUNTY 487 


C. Stewart from New Castle, Delaware. It has natural 
gas, fine churches, schools, public buildings, bridges, 
and many beautiful residences, including that of 
Exx-Lieutenant Governor William M. Brown, on the 
North Hill. Courthouse, colonial, built in 1852, in 
spacious grounds, on a hill in east part of the city. The 
first Methodist Episcopal Church has a memorial 
window to Ira D. Sankey, the singing evangelist, who 
was born and lived here; subject, “Ninety and Nine”; 
maker, Sellars, New York; also Hofmann’s “Christ”’ 
in stained glass. High school, brick, of best school 
construction, well lighted; has reproductions on the 
walls of fine works of art. The Oak Park Cemetery 
has some beautiful memorials. 

This is one of the manufacturing communities of 
western Pennsylvania, which form the greatest indus- 
trial district in the world; within a radius of sixty miles 
of New Castle, the annual tonnage is over 200,000,000, 
while the combined annual tonnage in and out of Liver- 
pool, London, Hamburg, Suez Canal, and New York 
is 116,000,000. The American Sheet and Tin Plate 
Mill is said to be the largest in the world; they con- 
structed a miniature playground for the only exhibit 
sent from New Castle to the Panama-Pacific Exposition 
in 1915; it showed the kind of humanitarian work done 
by the company, and was representative of this city, 
where the playground has done a vast amount of good 
among the foreign population employed in the immense 
furnaces; engineering works; and the great cement 
plants making 5000 barrels of Portland cement daily. 
The United States Steel Corporation, Carnegie Steel 
Company, maintains children’s playgrounds, with a 


488 LAWRENCE COUNTY 


moving picture theatre, average attendance 1800 chil- 
dren daily; The “ Rosena”’ blast furnace yard is kept like 
a park in grass, flower beds, and neatness. 

Cascade Park has great natural beauty. A part of 
the beautiful Slippery Rock is in the southeast of this 
county. At Mount Jackson is Battery B Monument 
in honor of the Round Head Regiment. NEW WIL- 
MINGTON, population 8861, has Westminster College, 
under United Presbyterian administration; near here 
was the McKinley blast furnace, owned and operated 
by President McKinley’s father. His son worked here 
as a boy. 


LXITI 
FULTON COUNTY 


ORMED April 19, 1850, named for Robert Ful- 
}F) ton. The Tuscarora Mountains rise like a huge 
barrier on the eastern boundary, with numerous 
other ridges and peaks. Streams that flow into the 
Potomac River are largely fed by splendid limestone 
springs. From the Susquehanna to the Ohio River the 
scenery cannot be surpassed for picturesque beauty; 
far sweeping valleys, rugged mountains, grand forests, 
form a constantly changing panorama. It is both 
beautiful and historic. The Chambersburg and Pitts- 
burgh Turnpike, built in 1814-15, now the Lincoln 
Highway, was first an old Indian trail from Harrisburg, 
through Fort Louden, Clinton County, and westward 
to Bedford, crossing the center of the county. 

In the days following Braddock’s defeat in 1755, 
this region became the arena in which the red warrior 
of the forests and the white frontiersman fought. to 
the death. Not a valley, creek, nor mountain range, 
site of modern city or town, but what was the scene of 
thrilling events, some of which influence the world for 
all time. Early settlers were Scotch-Irish, on the 
Aughwick, and in the great cove. Chief industries, 
iron ore, bituminous coal, and agriculture. Dickey’s 
Mountain, in the southeast, is rich in hematite and 
fossil ores. 

McCONNELLSBURG, county seat; population 689; 
land granted to William and Daniel McConnell by 

(489) 


OF MILES 


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FULTON COUNTY 


(490) 


FULTON COUNTY 491 


warrant in 1762, is in the heart of the great cove: it 
was laid out in 1786, and in 1830 was one of the most 
important stopping places on the old turnpike. Here, 
from 1827-47 were the Hanover Iron Works, two 
furnaces, and two forges, that used hematite ore, 
mined from Lowry’s Knob, one mile distant. It is 
said that no territory of equal extent in this state is 
so rich in iron ore as is Fulton County. Fort Littleton 
in the north was one of a chain of government forts 
from the east to Fort Pitt. Burnt Casins, on the 
old state road, was named because of the burning of 
the cabins of early settlers near here by the provincial 
authorities. It is said that Fulton County contributed 
more men to the Civil War, in proportion, than any 
other county in Pennsylvania. 


SCALE OF.” MILES 
O es 10 





MontTOUR COUNTY 


(492) 


LXIV 
MONTOUR COUNTY 


ORMED May 8, 1850: named for Catharine 
kK Montour; surface hilly; traversed by several 
barren ridges. Muncy Hills lie along the north- 
west border, while down the river for miles stretches 
the Montour Ridge, furnishing quantities of best iron 
ore; there is also finest limestone; and much fertile 
land, drained by the Chillisquaque and Mahoning 
creeks. Chief industries are iron and steel production, 
and manufactories. Here, it is said, the first “T” rail 
was made, in 1844, and the first cannon in the United 
States, made of anthracite iron, was cast at the foundry 
in 1842. 

DANVILLE, county seat; population 6952: was set- 
tled in 1790; beautifully located, it nestles between 
Bald Top and Blue Hill. Mahoning Creek, named 
after a tribe of Indians who peopled this part of the 
country, flows through the town, which is built on part 
of the tract of land surveyed on warrant of John Penn 
to John Lukens, Surveyor General of the United States, 
dated, January 31, 1769. A bridge built by the state 
in 1904 is one-quarter mile long and connects Montour 
with Northumberland County; at its entrance is River 
Front Park, laid out in 1912, with concrete walks, 
flower beds, and fountain. Market Street Park, center 
of town, has an electrically lighted fountain. Memo- 
rial Park, a beautiful knoll, was formerly the burial 
ground of the Presbyterian Church; in 1908 it was laid 

(493) 


494 MONTOUR COUNTY 


out as a park with flower beds, and is kept up by the 
council and public-spirited citizens; the Soldiers’ 
Monument is here, with two cannon of the Civil War 
near. 

Courthouse, Georgian, built in 1871. Jail built, 
1892, architect, J. H. Brugler, has modern equipment, 
and for months at a time is empty. Among the fiiteen 
churches, the most notable in architecture is Christ 
Memorial, Protestant Episcopal, fourteenth century, 
English Gothic; massive architecture, native limestone 
of varied tints, with Ohio stone for the traceried win- 
dows. The Thomas Beaver Free Library. Young 
Men’s Christian Association with gymnasium and 
swimming pool; George F. Geisinger Memorial Hospi- 
tal: and State Hospital for the Insane, constructed 
by S. 8S. Schultz, M.D., corner-stone laid by Governor 
Geary in 1869, are all important buildings, among the 
best equipped and most modern in the state. WASH- 
INCGTONVILLE is site of Fort Bossley, on the Chillis- 
quaque Creek. 


LXV 
SNYDER COUNTY 


ORMED March 2, 1855, named for Hon. Simon 
% Snyder, Governor of Pennsylvania, 1808-17; 
three terms; noted as the first governor to urge 
legislation for free public schools; he was the great war 
governor of 1812; served in the Assembly from 1789-— 
1808, and was speaker of the House from 1802-08; he 
lived at Selinsgrove. From end of Northumberland 
Bridge, built by Theodore Burr in 1814, on West Branch 
of the Susquehanna; the road leading south to Selins- 
grove passes Blue Hill, noted for beautiful scenery. 
On top was formerly Hotel Shikellimy, burned in 1895; 
on one of the rocks overhanging is a natural profile 
named for Shikellimy, who sauntered about here. 
Farther on is a single arch stone bridge; for half a mile, 
beginning at this bridge, is a state road built by the 
Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. Governor Penny- 
packer handled the first shovel of dirt in 1904; it was 
laid out first by James F. Linn in 1829, has since been 
extended. 

SELINSGROVE, first settlers, in 1755, were all killed 
by Indians, laid out by and named for Anthony Selin 
in 1827, population 1937; Governor Snyder man- 
sion, built by himself in 1816, is near center of town, 
colonial, massive stone walls, with arched door ten 
feet high and large side porch, in well kept grounds. 
Due west from Selinsgrove, towards Middleburg, is 
Susquehanna University, formerly Missionary Insti- 

(495) 


ALNNOQ UACANS 


A>. eee 111 
TANS 





(496) 


SNYDER COUNTY 497 


tute; collegiate and theological courses, six large 
and several small buildings; main building, Selinsgrove 
Hall, was built in 1859, Gustavus Adolphus Hall in 
1895, contains collection of forty-two pictures of 
Gustavus Adolphus, also brass memorial tablet to the 
men appointed in 1856, by the Evangelical Lutheran 
Synod of Maryland, to organize the Missionary Insti- 
tute; the buildings contain portraits of Governor 
Simon Snyder, members of the faculty, and other 
Lutheran clergymen; on the campus is a granite 
Celtic cross, marking grave of the founder, Benjamin 
Kurtz, D.D., LL.D.; in the old Lutheran Cemetery 
is grave of Governor Snyder, Quincy granite monument, 
surmounted with his bust, life size, erected by the 
state in 1885. 

Two miles west is SALEM; Row’s Church, log, built, 
1780, modernized in 1897. In KREAMER is the old 
brick hotel used for special sessions of court before 
1855, for cases in immediate neighborhood; a 
short distance in the field stands the old block house, 
erected before 1781, where white settlers gathered 
in defense against Indians. One mile farther west, 
in 1781, Indians killed five members of the Stock 
family. Ten miles west from Selinsgrove is 
MIDDLEBURG, county seat; 498 feet above sea level: 
population 984; laid out in 1800. In Glendale Ceme- 
tery is grave of Hon. George Kreamer, nephew of 
Governor Snyder, and member of the Legislature, 
1812-18; member of Congress, 1823-27; also grave of 
Captain Federick Evans, member of State Legislature, 
1810-11, a defender of Fort McHenry, Baltimore, 
where, in 1814, the“‘Star-Spangled Banner’”’ was written 
by Francis Scott Key. 


498 SNYDER COUNTY 


On the banks of Stump’s Run is shaft monument to 
soldiers and sailors of this country who fought in the 
different wars; erected in 1904, by county commission- 
ers; Soldiers’ Memorial Building, open tothe public, is 
near the Lutheran Church; it was dedicated 1908; 
interior lined with marble, names of all soldiers and 
sailors of Snyder County are preserved within its walls, 
John F. Stetler, architect. Wooden bridge across 
Middle Creek, in good repair, is said to have been built 
in 1808 by John Aurand. ; Two miles west of town are 
the Hassinger Lutheran Churches, General Council 
east, present building erected in 1871, third on original 
site, first building in 1785; a split occurred, and the 
General Synod members built, in 1782, a quarter mile 
west; present church, in 1915. 

Almost due south is Paxtonville, 510 feet above sea 
level; has wooden bridge over Middle Creek, built 
in 1851, John Bilger, builder; and ruins of Beaver 
blast furnace, once busiest industry in Middle Creek 
Valley, erected by Hon. Ner Middleswarth, the 
Kern Brothers and John C. Wilson, 1848-56; it was 
operated until 1866, power secured from a 200-foot 
head of water, running over two overshot wheels, 
one over the other. Westward is farm of Ner Feese 
on which gold and silver were discovered. BEAVER- 
TOWN; population 525; 651 feet; originally Swift- 
town, named for John Swift, who had the land pat- 
ented in 1760; was residence of Hon. Ner Middle- 
swarth from 1792; he was reélected thirteen times 
member of Legislature, twice speaker of the House 
—in 1828 and 1836; member of Congress, 1853-55; 
his last public service was that of associate judge. 


SNYDER COUNTY 499 


BEAVER SPRINGS, elevation 591 feet, laid out in 1806, 
early chief industry, ore mines. Scenic beauty from 
Shade Mountain, a long ridge, summit near Beaver 
Springs, 1672 feet above sea level. McCLUurRE, six 
miles west, is where folding houses are manufactured; 
the largest ever made was produced here, and shipped 
to South America. 


33 


SCALE OF MILES 
5 4 20 


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CLEARFIELD 





CAMERON COUNTY 


(500) 


LXVI 
CAMERON COUNTY 


ORMED March 29, 1860; named in honor of Hon. 
}%) Simon Cameron, state senator at that time. Sit- 
uated among the spurs of the Alleghenies, alti- 
tude varies from 794 feet to 2100 feet above sea level. 
The Sinnemahoning Creek and its tributaries drain 
three quarters of the county into the Susquehanna; 
along these waters, roads were cut and towns built 
for the extensive early lumbering and tanning opera- 
tions; primeval forests of hemlock, oak, cherry, elm, 
and some of the finest white pine in the state. Beds of 
coal and fire clay still await development. Salt spring 
and a mineral spring of rare medicinal value are near 
SIZERVILLE. The county is now largely given up to 
the manufacture of high explosives, nitro-gelatine, 
smokeless powder, gun cotton, picric acid; in 1915 
there was a merger of four powder companies who 
created a plant of vast proportions, over one hundred 
buildings, extending from the edge of Emporium, for 
over a mile, along the banks of Driftwood Creek. 
EMPORIUM, county seat; population 3036; incorpo- 
rated 1861; altitude 1031 feet above sea level; first 
settled in 1811, as Shippen, name changed through 
deference to an old tradition; in 1785, an agent of 
the Holland Land Company, owning large territories 
in Pennsylvania and New York, removed the bark 
from a tree where the town now stands, and carved 
the word, “Emporium.” A typical mountain town, 
(501) 


502 CAMERON COUNTY 


the streets follow the winding way of Driftwood Stream, 
or climb the mountain side where magnificent views 
of scenic grandeur await the beholder. Best archi- 
tecture, the Episcopal Church, brown stone, English 
chapel design, Cram & Ferguson, of Boston, architects, 
built in 1901; other denominations have modern brick 
buildings. The large brick courthouse, built, 1890, 
is in a park on the hillside, overlooking the town; 
in the grounds is monument to soldiers of the Civil 
War. 

CAMERON, in 1889, one hundred coke ovens, “bee- 
hive” design, were built here to coke the coal in the 
near-by hills, for the blast furnace at Emporium; now 
abandoned, and today mountain wild flowers blossom 
along the row of silent hearths. STERLING RUN; in 
this quaint village belongs the honor of the first church 
in the county, Presbyterian, ‘‘The Pine Street Church,” 
erected in 1826, so-called in consequence of the old 
Pine Street Church, Philadelphia, contributing funds 
to pay the workmen and buy the windows; the lumber 
and much of the construction being donated by the 
pioneers; built of hewn pine logs, chinked with plaster 
of moss and mud, and fastened with hand-wrought 
nails, this little chapel endures, while those who shaped 
it sleep in the little churchyard at its threshold. 

DRIFTWooD, near the “Crescent,” a half moon 
shaped mountain forming sides of the valley for nearly 
three points of the compass; claims the first settlement 
by white man within the county, in 1804; in the cen- 
ter of the village, facing the Sinnemahoning Creek, is 
the “Bucktail’’ Monument, in memory of Cameron’s 
sons who fought for the Union, erected by the state in 


CAMERON COUNTY 503 


1908, inscription, “From this town, on April 27, 1861, 
the Cameron, Elk and McKean County Rifles, under 
leadership of Thomas L. Kane, afterwards Commanding 
Officer of the Regiment, later a Major-General, 
embarked on four rafts for Harrisburg, where they were 
mustered into the service of the State, and formed 
the nucleus, about which the Bucktail Regiment of 
the Pennsylvania Reserve Corps was organized; which 
during its time of service, was almost continuously 
attached to the army of the Potomac.” 
SINNEMAHONING (Stony-lick), site of an Indian vil- 
lage called “The Lodge,” the battle ground of Peter 
Grove, famous Indian fighter, a picturesquely beautiful 
spot. Here were born the beautiful Clafflin sisters, 
Lady Cook (Tennesee Clafflin), and Mrs. Martin 
Woodhull (Victoria Clafflin), now a wealthy philan- 
thropist in England; their father, Buckman Clafflin, 
a pioneer, opened the first store in the county in 1829. 


SCALE IOFv. MILES 


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2 
O 
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WAYNE 


THOR Huseee MONROE 
CO. 





LACKAWANNA COUNTY 


(504) 


LXVII 
LACKAWANNA COUNTY 


ORMED August 13, 1878; named for the great 
}%) Lackawanna coal basin; an Indian word, signify- 

ing “The Forks of a Stream.” Chief industry, 
anthracite coal mining, confined to the long-depressed 
trough forming the Lackawanna Valley and tothemoun- 
tains bordering it on both sides, with Bald Mountain, in 
Lackawanna Range, 2250 feet high, and Big Stoney 
among the Moosic Mountains, 2230 feet. Originally 
settled by Connecticut people who disputed the right 
of Pennsylvania to jurisdiction; life and growth have 
been the result of the coal-mining industry, which 
brought into it large numbers of Welsh, Irish, German, 
English, and Scotch, whose descendants dominate the 
region; latterly have come Polish, Slavs, Italians, and 
Lithuanians, a heterogeneous but rapidly assimilating 
mining population. — 

The mining of anthracite coal began at Carbondale 
in the early twenties; the old No. 1 plane is marked 
with monument and tablets; coal was taken over the 
Moosic Mountains to Honesdale, Wayne County, by 
steep inclined planes, up which the loaded cars were 
drawn by ropes or cables, and the empty cars let down; 
thence by canal to Roundout, on the Hudson; on the 
levels, between planes, cars were drawn by horses; 
later a descending grade was given to the tracks over 
which the cars ran by gravity; a similar gravity rail- 
road near Scranton, carried coal to the Delaware & 

(505) 


506 LACKAWANNA COUNTY 


Hudson Canal at Hawley, below Honesdale, both now 
abandoned for steam roads. 

The country northwest has well-cultivated farm 
lands; that, southeast, blends with the Pocono High- 
lands, is wild and picturesque; an almost unbroken 
wilderness for thirty miles, excepting along the line 
of the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western Railroad; 
on both sides of this road are good highways; the main 
road, the whole length of the valley, is exceptionally 
fine. The road from Gouldsboro Station was built by 
Jay Gould, 1855, when he was interested with Mr. 
Pratt in a tannery at Gouldsboro (now Thornhurst). 

At Carbondale, crossing Moosic Mountains, is road 
to Honesdale, following the line of the old Delaware 
& Hudson gravity road; at Dundaff, about five miles 
north of Carbondale, this road runs along the edge of 
Crystal Lake, near are the Twin Knobs of Elk Hill, 
about 2500 feet high. A point of geologic interest is 
the Archbald Pot Hole, said to be largest of the kind 
in this country; a cylindrical hole twenty feet deep, 
by thirty feet wide, eroded in the ice age through the 
overlying rocks down to the coal measures. 

SCRANTON, county seat, population 137,783; laid 
out on site of an Indian village, Muncy Tribe; began 
as an iron town; iron in large quantities was found in 
the hills three miles south of the city, and a suitable 
quality of limestone was also supposed to exist there; 
but the coal business superseded; the old ore mine, 
and abandoned road to furnaces at Scranton, are of 
historic and picturesque interest. 

The courthouse, on Washington Avenue near center 
of town, stands in a square of ground, Romanesque, 


LACKAWANNA COUNTY 507 


West Mountain stone, built 1881-84, architect, S. G, 
Perry. St. Luke’s Protestant Episcopal Church. 
Wyoming Avenue near Linden Street, Gothic, West 
Mountain stone, built 1866-71, architect, R. M. Ud- 
john, New York; contains Tiffany mosaic panel, back 
of font, “Baptism of Christ,” also Tiffany window in 
chancel, “The Ascension.” St. Peter’s Cathedral, at 
corner of Wyoming Avenue and Linden, Italian Renais- 
sance, brick, built, 1866, architect, Joel Amsden; 
remodeled 1883 by Durand, Philadelphia. Adminis- 
tration Building of the International Correspondence 
Schools, Wyoming Avenue between Vine and Mulberry 
Streets, Gothic, West Mountain stone, built in 1898; 
architect, W. Scott Collins; window by Kenyon Cox, 
made in 1898, “Science Instructing Industry.”’ 

The Scranton Public Library (Albright Memorial) 
is placed as an accent of beauty, corner of Washington 
Avenue and Vine Street, French chateau style, fifteenth 
and sixteenth centuries, after Cluny Museum, Paris; 
gray Indiana limestone and brown Madina stone laid 
in coursed ashlar, built in 1893; architects, Green & 
Wicks, Buffalo, New York; contains portraits of 
Joseph J. Albright, painted in 1902, artist, Bayard 
Henry Tyler; and of John J. Albright, artist, Char- 
train, France; stained glass windows are illustrative 
of celebrated book bindings in the past; a marble 
mosaic floor is in the entrance hall. 

Second Presbyterian Church, Jefferson Avenue be- 
tween Vine and Mulberry Streets, Romanesque; West, 
Mountain stone, built 1885; has Tiffany windows, 
“Charity” and “Hope.” Madison Avenue Synagogue, 
near Vine Street; Byzantine, West Mountain stone, 


508 LACKAWANNA COUNTY 


built 1902, architect, George W. Kramer, New York. 
First Presbyterian Church, corner of Madison Avenue 
and Olive Street, perpendicular Gothic, Indiana 
limestone; built 1908, architect, Holden, New York; 
windows by John La Farge, “The Woman at the 
Well’; and by Tiffany, “The Ascension”; Tiffany 
mosaic, “Pentecost.” Immanuel Baptist Church, 
corner of Jefferson Avenue and Mulberry Street, 
Gothic, Hummelstown redstone, built 1909, architect, 
Edward Langley, Scranton. Elm Park Church, corner 
of Linden and Jefferson Streets, Romanesque, West 
Mountain stone, built 1892, architect, George W. 
Kramer. ; 4 

Lackawanna Railroad Station, Lackawanna and 
Jefferson Avenues, Renaissance, Indiana limestone, 
granite base, built 1909, architects, Kenneth Murchison, 
New York, and Edward Langley; has interior finishings 
of Grueby tiles; and mosaic mural panels of views along 
the Lackawanna Railroad. The Everhart Museum of 
Natural History, Science and Art, in Nay Aug Park, 
south end of Milberry Street, given by the late Dr. I. F. — 
Everhart, and sustained by generous endowment; 
Renaissance, terra-cotta, built 1908, architects, Black- 
wood & Nelson; contains also the Hollister collection 
of Indian curios. Much natural beauty centers about 
the water supply system of the Scranton Gas and Water 
Company, which has over ten miles of fine drive- 
ways, including the road to top of Mount Anonymous, 
overlooking the lake; and Long Swamp Drive and 
roads up about Scrub Oak Mountain. 


BOOKS USED AS REFERENCE, AND 
CONTRIBUTED ARTICLES 


American Art Annual........... F. N. Levy. 
UR ee J. F. Watson 
BGG ee a re eee Blue Book 
Colonial Doorways.:............ A. H. Wharton 
ay tg ra J. Sachse 
Beer ATK =... 5... oa vie os os C. S. Keyser 
Forges and Furnaces............ Colonial Dames 
Guide Book to Historic German- : 

De i ew C. F. Jenkins 
Hikes for Boy Scouts of America. Charles D. Hart 
PecOMeOXCUISIONS. ............ J. Campbell 
History of Pennsylvania......... Egle 
TET Be ae G. P. Donehoo 
STRESS William J. Campbell 
HS) Se F. I. Brock 
Pepeagelpniag ..... 22.62. J. and E. R. Pennell 
Pennsylvania Primer............ Barr Ferree 
OEE elt i'r Sharf & Westcott 
Pivadeliphia Mirsts.............. W. I. Rutter, Jr. 
Philadelphia Streets............. J. Jackson 
Co piles ip Se eer U.S. Census for 1920 
Story of Philadelphia............ L. J. Rhoads 
PrieeIeCVSUONC. 05.6 oe wees Pennypacker 
Uh 220 Se) Baedeker 
Washington’s Itinerary.......... William S. Baker 


Many County Histories and His- 
toric Reports. 
(509) 



































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